USA, guide, outdoors, hiking Chris Toone USA, guide, outdoors, hiking Chris Toone

The Ultimate Guide to Crater Lake National Park: Everything you need to know for a day full of adventure

Crater Lake National Park has grown in popularity over the years, but it still wildly underrated amongst the National Parks. Here is your guide to getting the most of your 24 hours exploring the area!

Crater Lake, in Crater Lake National Park, glows deep blue below a cloudy sky, with pine trees in the foreground. This image is the top of a blog post about Crater Lake National Park

All information below is up to date as of April 2023.

A mere 42,000 years ago, Mt. Mazama rose through the present-day Oregon wilderness to 12,000 feet above sea level. Fast forward 5,000 years, the volcano experienced its largest eruption ever, spewing magma as far as 40 miles while spreading ash as far north as Canada and as far south as Nevada. 

The sheer magnitude of this eruption caused Mt. Mazama to lose so much of its structure that it could no longer support the peak of the volcano, forcing it to cave in on itself and thus creating the caldera that now holds what is known as Crater Lake. Gradually over the years, snowmelt and rain began to fill the new hole in the ground, forming the deepest lake in the United States of America (1,943 ft/595 m).

Hereโ€™s how to make the most of your time at Crater Lake National Park and some tips and tricks to avoiding crowds!

WHEN TO VISIT

Crater Lake sits at an elevation of 6,178ft. and gets an average snowfall of 48ft., meaning that the park is buried from October through June. The southern entrance is the only way to access the park during this time and the rim road turns into skiing trails. 

This makes July through September the prime months to visit, with high temps of around 67 degrees during the day and as low as 40 degrees at night.

Itโ€™s important to note that the number of visitors to Crater Lake National Park has skyrocketed in recent years. The National Park Service reported that annual totals jumped as much as 23% between 2015-2016, so if thereโ€™s a need for overnight accommodation in your itinerary, be sure to research and book in advance.

A photograph of Wizard Island from the lake's rim

Wizard Island from above

GETTING THERE

Crater Lake National Park is located in southwestern Oregon. Medford is the closest major town (to the south).

From Eugene:

  • 2.25 hours drive time

  • The fastest route is to take OR 58 through Oakridge, then route 97 to 138

  • Alternatively, you can also use I-5 to Wilbur before picking up 138 east

  • Enter at the northern gate

From Medford:

  • 1.25 hours drive time

  • Follow OR 62-E the entire way

  • Enter at the southern gate

WHAT TO PACK

  • With the high elevation, exercise caution on sunny days. Bring a good amount of sunscreen along with a hat and sunglasses, especially if you plan on spending your afternoon exploring by foot.

  • Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy the views at one of the several overlooks along the rim road.

  • There are plenty of places to re-fill water bottles along the way, but be sure pack enough to get by. Itโ€™s easy to get dehydrated between the altitude and sunshine.

  • If you plan on hiking, bring bug spray. We didnโ€™t have any problems, but always better to be safe than sorry!

  • Donโ€™t forget your cameraโ€ฆ just remember: adventure first, pictures second.


Hereโ€™s what we brought with us:


ENTRANCE FEES

The current rates are as follows (as of February 2023):

  • $20 per vehicle (November 1 to mid-May) or $30 per vehicle (mid-May to October)

  • $25 per motorcycle (May 22 - October 31) or $15 per motorcycle (November 1 to mid-May)

  • Annual Park Pass accepted ($55)

Consider purchasing your pass ahead of time online which can be a big asset if visiting during peak hours, saving you from having to wait in line at the entrance booths.

HOW TO EXPLORE THE PARK

Right off the bat, my number one piece of advice would be to get there early. This will provide a few moments of solitude to appreciate the surrounding beauty. We left our home in Corvallis at 5:30 am, determined to get at least one hike completed before the crowds descended upon the park and it ended up paying dividends.

The best, and easiest, way to explore is to plan to drive around the rim. This 32.93-mile road circumnavigates the entire lake, offering the chance to pull off as you please and enjoy the views. We entered at the northern gate and decided to drive counterclockwise. Our well-rounded plan included several shorter hikes, covering an overlook, a waterfall, and swimming in the lake. Hereโ€™s how it went:

The Watchman Peak Trail

A brief word to the wise: this trail is popular. It was the first thing we did after arriving and we enjoyed the views at the top with two or three other groups. When we passed the trailhead on our way out of the park, it looked like a small army of ants climbing to the top.

The trailhead is located at 3.7 mi. north and west from the Rim Village. The path starts from the southern end of a paved parking lot, sharing it with the Watchman Overlook Viewpoint.

The trail itself is a 1.6mi. roundtrip trail with 387ft. of elevation gain and is a steady incline the entire way. Small children and grandparents were able to get up and down without hiking poles, but the extra equipment certainly wouldnโ€™t hurt.

From the top, youโ€™ll be treated to vast 360-degree views from the western end of the lake. Directly below youโ€™ll see Wizard Island, the vantage point providing the perfect view of the volcanic cone. 

For more information on reaching and hiking the island, visit this comprehensive guide from Just Go Travel Studios.

Looking to the north, youโ€™ll be able to spot other volcanos within the High Cascade range, including Mt. Bailey, Diamond Peak, and Mt. Thielsen.

Back at the bottom, we continued driving southeast along the rim road towards the Rim Village. Bathrooms are accessible around most of the park, but they are not available at every trailhead. If you need to go, make sure to use the ones in the parking lot before leaving. 

Along this route, you will run into Vidae Falls on your left. From the pull-out, youโ€™ll be able to see the 100ft. cascading waterfall, but thereโ€™s not much more to do here other than get out and take a quick peek before continuing.

Plaikni Falls Hike

To reach the start of the trail for Plaikni Falls, turn right onto Pinnacle Road just before reaching the Phantom Ship Overlook. After driving another 1.2mi., you will see the parking area on your left. Note: There are no bathrooms available at this trailhead.

The path is an easy walk for all ages, winding 2.2mi. (round trip) through the old-growth forest before reaching Sand Creek where rushing water, wildflowers, and butterflies are waiting to greet visitors. We didnโ€™t have any problems with mosquitoes, but reports have stated otherwise, so make sure you have the bug spray ready and available for this one.

There isnโ€™t much space to hang out by the waterfall, especially if there is a lot of traffic on the trail, but itโ€™s worth it to have a look. 

Due to its short length and popularity, the trail can become quite congested during peak hours. As is the case with most hikes, the earlier you can arrive, the better.

View of the Plaikni Falls trail at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, USA

View of Plaikni Falls

Lunch at Victor View

An unmarked overlook, Victor View provided the perfect spot for a quick lunch away from the crowds. Despite the heavy traffic, we only saw three other cars pull over here. It is the second pull-off (on your left) after the Phantom Ship.

Thereโ€™s a short trail that has been carved out that will take you through the trees and provide you with unobstructed views across Crater Lake and towards Wizard Island, as well as Cloudcap Bay to the right. Exercise caution as the ground quickly turns from packed dirt to sand and loose stone.

This viewpoint placed us in a perfect location to take a post-lunch drive up to the Cloudcap Overlook, which can be reached by taking the highest paved road in Oregon.

Shot at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, USA, looking towards the Cloducap Bay

Looking towards Cloudcap Bay

Cloudcap Overlook

One of the most popular overlooks in all of Crater Lake National Park, youโ€™ll be treated to expansive westward views across the caldera once at the top. Be aware that you may have to fight a busload or two of tourists to catch a glimpse of the scenery. 

You wonโ€™t be disappointed with the views if youโ€™re able to find a spot, but the entire park is stunning so we felt comfortable skipping it this time around.

Shortly after departing Cloudcap Overlook and reuniting with the rim road, we passed the trailhead for Mt. Scott. This is the highest point of Crater Lake. Although only a 4.2-mile round trip hike, it wasnโ€™t on our itinerary for the day due to limited time. Instead, we continued to Cleetwood Cove โ€” it was time to get wet!

Cleetwood Cove Trail

Itโ€™s important to note that Cleetwood Cove Trail DESCENDS to the lake, meaning the way back up will be the grueling part. We passed quite a few unhappy faces on their way to the parking lot.

At only 2.2mi. round trip, the way down is quite easy via the switchback trail, with Crater Lake peeking out from between the trees. Eventually, the boat docks will appear. Continue following the trail and you will soon see where everyone is swimming. 

I was surprised by how crowded it was, but I guess it makes sense. After all, who would pass up the chance to swim in a lake with a collapsed volcano beneath the surface? Not us!

After taking a dip and enjoying the water-level views, tie your laces tight to start climbing the 700ft. back to the trailhead. Pro Tip: Bring closed-toed shoes. Many parts of the trail are soft, making it difficult to navigate in sandals. Several cut-outs along the path provide an oasis-like seating area to rest and catch your breath. If you go in the afternoon, make sure to bring water and stay hydrated! 

A hiker in the afternoon sun along the Cleetwood Cove Trail at Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, USA

Hiking Cleetwood Cove Trail

Cleetwood Cove was our final stop of the day before leaving the park and driving home. When it was all said and done, we had spent nearly 7 hours exploring the area and cumulatively hiking 6 miles; a full day of adventure that left our legs tired, our clothes dirty, and our faces beaming with delight!

Although visitor numbers are on the rise, the park didnโ€™t even crack the top 10 most visited in 2018, presenting the unique opportunity to enjoy Crater Lake National Park without the large crowds that other places such as Yellowstone and Zion regularly experience. We highly recommend it!

More information can be found by visiting the National Park Service website. 

Have you had experiences of your own? Be sure to leave them in the comments below!

As always, stay safe & happy travels! 


A friendly reminder to comply with all rules and regulations regarding National Parks. Itโ€™s up to us to protect and preserve the Earth, so stick to established trails and leave only your footprints behind! Crater Lake also attracts cyclists from around the world, so be sure to share the road and use caution when driving around the rim.



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Chasing Choclon Waterfall: Discovering paradise in the Panamanian jungle

As I combed through the research prior to our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it. There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us where it was locatedโ€ฆ

Choclon waterfall, in Boquete, Panama, falls into a swimming hole deep within the jungle

Let me clarify one thing right from the beginning: we werenโ€™t actually in the middle of nowhere. Thatโ€™s simply how it felt, and to be honest, thatโ€™s just the way we like it!

As I combed through the research before our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it (click here to see the original post I found).

There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us the location, let alone how to navigate the hike.

I stumbled deep into the black hole of the internet, searching for any clues that might point us in the right direction. The only objective I accomplished that day was leaving a solid imprint of my butt on the couch cushion. Disappointing, to say the least.

That might be enough to call it quits for some, but it only fueled the fire within. The longer I went without finding what I was looking for, the more determined I became. We were going to find a way to Cascada Choclรณn. There was no doubt in my mind.

All of the sudden a beam of sunlight shot into the living room. No, it wasnโ€™t actually that dramatic, but shortly after opening the window blinds I came across our first solid lead.

Itโ€™s possible that โ€œsolidโ€ is a gross overstatement. The website merely provided the GPS coordinates for the trailhead. It wasnโ€™t much to go on, but that was enough to get the ball rolling!



I continued scouring every piece of information that I could find. When I took a closer look at satellite imaging, there was a portion where the jungle appeared to part along the river, providing a much-needed hint to where the falls may be.

Now that I had a starting point and a general direction, it seemed like this may pan out. Fast forward to arriving in Panama: it was time for the adventure!

As soon as we turned off the main road in Boquete, we quickly became grateful that we opted for the SUV rental. The pavement disappeared, our cell service wasnโ€™t far behind.

The farther we drove, the slower we went, carefully maneuvering over every bump, boulder, and hole in the road. As the minutes ticked by, so did our confidence even though neither of us would ever vocalize it.

After what felt like hours, we had reached the starting point.

The car came to a halt and a cloud of dust from our tires quickly engulfed our field of vision. Once it cleared, we realized how โ€œoff the beaten trackโ€ we were. The sounds of the jungle beckoned beyond the open field that lay ahead. One last look at our maps and we were off.

The canopy of the jungle in Boquete, Panama, at the trailhead for Cascada Cholcon

The hike started by traversing through an open meadow as the sun beat down our backs, the humidity making it impossible for any relief. Upon reaching the first junction, we referred to our makeshift maps and descended to the forest floor, following the sounds of the river below.

As we trekked deeper into the brush, the canopy quickly began to rise straight towards the sky, providing a much-needed relief from the heat. Our compass instructed us to go left around a closed gate, but our ears directed us to the right, towards the sound of the rushing water. We stood there confused, unsure of what to do.

At this point the sun forced us to perspire off our umpteen layers of sunscreen and bug spray, leaving us susceptible to the mosquitoes that began swarming around. We were in no position to have a lengthy debate. Lacking confidence in either direction, we climbed back out to the trailhead.

Maybe we had incorrectly interpreted our map. Maybe if we walked another direction we would discover a different, easier way to reach the river.

It seemed like a good idea at the time but, as it turned out, we were wrong. Very wrong.

As we continued down the gravel road the intensity of the sun drained all of our energy. I could feel my body temperature rising, but I was too exhausted to do anything about it. Each step we took was met with an unsuccessful prayer for cloud cover.

Ten minutes and a new sunburn later, we had reached another dead end.

This was the point that every ounce of my being was telling me to pack up and call it a day. Our motivation was waning, the heat was relentless, and we were out of ideas as we slowly retreated back to the car. I remember Heather cracking jokes along the way, trying to make light of the situation and keep my morale in tact.

A second look at the scattered research revealed a small access path farther down the dirt road. Maybe that was what we were looking for, so we decided to keep driving north.

No luck.

I could tell that Heather wasnโ€™t too sure about continuing and, to be honest, even after regrouping in the air-conditioned car, I wasnโ€™t either. As a rainstorm moved through, we took the time to reevaluate what we were doing.

We felt assured and frustrated at the same time. Confident that we were in the general vicinity. Annoyed that no matter how we approached it, we couldnโ€™t find what we were searching for.

The road back to the original trailhead provided some much-needed perspective as we passed run-down homes with missing walls and children playing in the rain. I couldnโ€™t help but think of the number of tourists that travel through Panama each year and yet had no idea that this part of the country existed. Although we concluded that we would give our adventure one more try, I decided that after the experience we had up to that point, I would be content no matter what. After all, it was Dan Eldon that once said, โ€œThe journey is the destination.โ€

Once we descended back into the jungle, reached the gate, and shuffled our way around it, we were back on track and heading in the right direction.

We quickly descended farther into the forest floor, hugging a makeshift PVC pipe railing along a ridge and using the vines as support as we worked our way down into the canyon. The path was completely overgrown with thick brush rising far above our heads. Thrusting the branches aside, we did our best to stick to the trail quickly narrowed with each step.

The ecosystem of any jungle is the most diverse in the world, often-times leading to regular discoveries of new plants and animals. Panama alone is home to over 1,500 kinds of trees and five species of cats, including jaguars, ocelots, and pumas. It feels eerie yet humbling to be amongst it; a place where the silence is deafening and only broken by an occasional howler monkey crying out in the distance or a bird rummaging amongst the fallen leaves for food.

We silently trekked along the forest floor, remaining vigilant of our surroundings.

The moment we began to feel comfortable, a loud crash echoed through the forest and left us frozen in our tracks. We exchanged nervous glances, trying to control our breathing and telepathically communicate what to do next.

Tip-toeing forward as quietly as possible, we did our best to avoid the branches that covered our path. Needless to say it was a humbling reminder that regardless of how isolated we felt, we werenโ€™t alone.

Finally, the thick brush parted and the bank of the river appeared, reinvigorating the idea that we could find these waterfalls.

The river along the hiking route to Cascada Choclon in Boquete, Panama

We searched up and down the river for a way to cross, but it quickly became clear that it wouldnโ€™t be as simple as jumping between rocks. We would have to carefully select the path of least resistance.

Although our faces may have expressed doubt, we were so close that we could feel it. There was no turning back.

The path continued to disappear before our eyes, winding its way through the overgrown brush before depositing us back onto the rocks and leaving us with newly acquired scrapes up and down our legs.

We continued moving northwest, systematically evaluating every step we took as our feet slipped off the rocks. The energy in the forest changed from nervousness to excitement as we inched closer. We were nearly there.

Just beyond the final bend of the river, the waterfalls were waiting to greet us. It was even more majestic than I had seen in the pictures.

We were left speechless as we peered towards an amphitheater of hanging vines and cascading waterfalls.

The beautiful blue waters of the pool were irresistible. We couldnโ€™t help but jump in and soak up the moment. A rush of emotions engulfed us, leaving nothing but a sense of relief, gratefulness, peace. We had uncovered paradise in the Panamanian jungle. More importantly, we never gave up.

A hiker swims in the pools at Cascada Choclon in Boquete, Panama

The forest floor quickly grew dark as the sun began to drop below the horizon, signaling that it was time to pack up and move out.

Back on the trail we went, accompanied by the beautiful silence, this time with no unexpected noises.

We made it to the car unscathed, feeling sunburnt and dehydrated yet eternally grateful for all that had happened that day. After all, we had found our own slice of Panama that, at that moment, felt truly untouched.

As I reflect on the adventure we had, I canโ€™t help but think of one of my favorite quotes from the late Anthony Bourdain: โ€œThe journey is part of the experience - an expression of the seriousness of oneโ€™s intent. One doesnโ€™t take the A train to Mecca.โ€

 

What have been some of your greatest journeys? Feel free to share in the comments below.

Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.


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Chasing Choclon Waterfall - Toone's Travels
 
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Panama, travel, Central America, guide, outdoors, hiking Chris Toone Panama, travel, Central America, guide, outdoors, hiking Chris Toone

Hiking Cerro Ancon: Chasing views in Panama City, Panama

The very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb this hill. I think thereโ€™s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective. Itโ€™s like watching a city pump blood through its veins and Cerro Ancon is the best vantage point youโ€™ll find in this sprawling metropolis.

Panama City skyline as viewed between trees from the Cerro Ancon hiking trail in Panama

Thereโ€™s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective, so the very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb to the top of Cerro Ancon. 

Standing atop this popular hill was the perfect place to get a better understanding of all that goes into making Panama City what it is today. It felt as though I was watching a city pump blood through its veins. What ran through the streets below is what gives this place life. What defines it. What keeps it functioning at such a high level.

Hereโ€™s what you can expect to find as you start the climb.

HOW TO GET TO CERRO ANCON

Cerro Ancon is about a 10-minute drive from Casco Viejo. Itโ€™s easy to hail a taxi or hop in an Uber ($2.50, depending on the starting point). 

Mi Pueblito is a recognizable drop-off point for the trailhead. A small conglomerate of replica buildings from the Colonial era, it offers visitors the chance to explore exhibits throughout Panamaโ€™s history.

From there itโ€™s a short walk up the road to the set of stairs on the right that will lead to the starting point.



HIKING CERRO ANCON

The hike itself is also known as Ancon Hill and is a 654-foot high climb that overlooks all of Panama City. It was once used as an administration location for the Panama Canal and was even under U.S. control at one point, but was returned to Panamanian authorities in 1977.

Fun fact: Once the land was handed over, one of the first things the Panamanians did was fly the large flag so that it cast its glory over the entire city!

The hike takes around 30 minutes and is free for anyone to enjoy. Although there is a relatively steep incline, itโ€™s gradual which makes this walk suitable for everyone. The hardest part was braving the humidity!

Don't be alarmed if you have to walk around a fence and past a guard hut... that's normal! You donโ€™t need to stop and talk to anyone that may be in the hut, you can simply keep going. The gate was open when I was there, but Iโ€™ve read other accounts where it has been closed. Itโ€™s legal to walk through it and carry on your way. 

Starting point for hiking Cerro Ancon

Starting point for hiking Cerro Ancon

From there, start the trek into the lush vegetation, a stark difference from the slabs of concrete and high-rise buildings downtown. Cerro Ancon itself is a 106 acre jungle that is surrounded by a city of 1.2 million people. As you continue winding up the paved path, hanging vines cascade down from the trees and with views of the hustle and bustle of the city below every so often.

This goes without saying, but donโ€™t forget to bring water, even if itโ€™s early in the morning. The humidity and incline are no joke!

En route to the top of Cerro Ancon

En route to the top of Cerro Ancon

CERRO ANCON VIEWPOINTS: WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE TOP

Upon reaching the the top, visitors will encounter a set of stairs on the left side of the road that leads to the first two view points. There are two viewpoints worth checking out here. The first looks down above Casco Viejo (the path to the left) while the second shares the expanse of the Panama Canal, Miraflores Locks, and the Bridge of the Americas (to the right).

The Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon

The Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon

Looking out across the Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks from the top of Cerro Ancon

Looking out across the Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks from the top of Cerro Ancon

Once finished soaking up the scenery, keep heading towards the large flag of Panama. The hike is complete once you reach the locked gate. Have a seat on the park benches and enjoy the breathtaking views of Panama City and the Pacific Ocean.

In the shopping mood? More times than not there will be someone selling souvenirs. Youโ€™ve got to admire their dedication if theyโ€™re willing to walk all of their goods up there! 

Pro Tip: Bathrooms conveniently located at the first two viewpoints.

Downtown Panama City as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon

Downtown Panama City as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon

Cerro Ancon was the perfect way to start the trip and is fun for all ages! Although visiting the Miraflores Locks was very educational, being able to watch the whole canalโ€™s operation from above was something special. Iโ€™d encourage you to check it out for yourself!


Have you hiked Cerro Ancon before? Did I leave something out? Let me know in the comments below!

Stay safe & happy travels!

 

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