Three Years Living in Africa: 10 Experiences Iโll Never Forget
After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the worldโฆ
Three years isn't a lifetime, but it's long enough for a place to change you. When I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved to Ghana in 2022, I expected a change of scenery, maybe an adventure here and there or at least a good story to come home and tell when I, what I figured would be inevitably, decided to return home.
What I didn't expect was how dramatically my perspective on travel, nature, and life would shift; how the journey would become much more impactful than the destination.
Looking back, these aren't necessarily the "best" places I've visited. They're simply the moments that have stayed with me the most.
Three Years, Ten Experiences That Changed Everything
10. Wechiau Hippo Community Sanctuary, Ghana
Imagine yourself in a dugout canoe with a single paddle, a rushing Volta River in one of the most remote parts of Northern Ghana, and a bloat of hippos staring you down while you hang onto the shoreline branches.
In Ghanaโs Upper West Region, along the border with Burkina Faso, the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary protects a 40-kilometer stretch of the Black Volta River and the surrounding woodlands.
The flooded waters of the Black Volta River, separating Ghana (right) from Burkina Faso (left)
Itโs not easy to reach; we managed to arrive after 3 days of driving endless dirt roads from the Eastern Region, but it was well worth the effort. We had spoken to someone who had visited the week prior, spent hours on the river, and didnโt manage to see a single hippopotamus.
As we entered the small house that doubled as a museum, our guides were excited to tell us they had just concluded a census and knew exactly where to look, so we hopped back in the car, picked up our boat captain at the next village en route to the river bank, and off we went. Within ten minutes of paddling against a heavy current, we found ourselves face to face with these majestic animals, nothing but a wooden canoe between us and turning into their afternoon snack.
It sounds a bit crazy, right? It was, but it was also raw and stripped down; the purest form of seeing these hippos in Ghana in their most wild state.
A bloat of hippos in the flooded Black Volta River, part of the protected Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana
9. Lake Kivu, Rwanda
Central Africa had been brewing in my mind. Ever since reading Heart of Darkness in high school, the Congo and its mysteries have been tucked away into my subconscious. The longer I stay in Africa, the more I find myself daydreaming about it.
Traveling to Rwanda was a last-second decision, less than a week between booking the ticket and boarding the plane, so I didnโt have much planned beyond knowing I wanted to at least see the Congo, even if I couldnโt enter. Lake Kivu was the closest I could get.
Mount Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, with Lake Kivu in the foreground
Rwanda is a complex country with a dark history, having endured the 1994 Tutsi genocide. Itโs a tiny nation filled with greenery and rolling hills, but one gets the sense of something โdeeperโ going on, and the truth is, the fallout from the genocide is a major driving force behind the current conflict in Eastern Congo, but I digress.
Lake Kivu straddles Rwanda and the Congo and sits at the base of active volcanoes with tectonic plates nearby. Why is this important? Large amounts of carbon dioxide and methane gas are trapped at the bottom, and scientists believe a volcanic eruption or earthquake may just be enough to shake the water levels and release the toxic gas.
One canโt deny the natural beauty, though. At the time of my visit, both the Rwandan and Congolese Governments were set to reopen the border at Gisenyi. I spent my time staring across Lake Kivu, into the Congo, and listening to stories from my Belgian host about growing up in Bukavu and her experience living in post-genocide Rwanda, and, of course, swimming in Lake Kivu, flanked by conflict to the west and volcanoes to the east.
A boat floats on Lake Kivu at sunset as a storm rolls in, shot looking towards the Democratic Republic of the Congo
Rwanda left me with more questions than answers. A country scarred by its unimaginable history, embroiled in regional conflict, and a lake thatโs one natural event away from disaster - how much can one place endure? Time will tell. In the meantime, Iโll carry the stunning scenery of Lake Kivu with me for a long while.
8. Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe
The second smallest sovereign state in Africa, one of the least visited countries in the world, Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe is less than a two hour flight from Accra and, seemingly, a convenient place to explore for someone living in Ghana.
Although a short flight, Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe isnโt the easiest to visit. The country isnโt on the international banking system, which means credit cards donโt work outside of higher end hotels and most foreign debit cards arenโt accepted at ATMs. That means that a certain level of planning and foresight (neither are a strong suit of mine) are important to ensuring you donโt run out of cash during your stay.
Porto Alegre, a remote village on the southern part of Sรฃo Tomรฉ, is one of the more difficult places to reach on the island
A few torrential rain storms and an overheated rental car later, Sรฃo Tomรฉ treated me to unspoiled nature like Iโve never seen, highlighted by coastal drives, coffee plantations, and the majestic Pico Grande, a volcanic plug that dominates the interior landscape of the country.
Such low tourism numbers also come with poor infrastructure. Roads are often difficult to navigate, especially after rain, power and phone networks frequently cut out, and healthcare is challenging to access. Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe isnโt necessarily a place to vacation, rather a trip to see, experience, and be a part of.
Itโs one of the few places Iโve traveled where I truly felt disconnected from the outside world, where being present was the norm, not the exception.
The island of Sรฃo Tomรฉ is filled with unspoiled nature and landscapes
7. Liwonde National Park, Malawi
Liwonde National Park encompasses 54,000 hectares of land and stretches along the Shire River, making it one of the premier wildlife destinations in Malawi.
By day, the winding dirt roads yielded spectacular sightings: juvenile elephants attempting to assert their dominance, a cheetah digesting a fresh kill, and more.
As the scorching sun started to dip, I, along with the few other guests, clamored onto a boat and headed towards the Shire River.
Out in the open water, we quickly heard grunting, and a hippopotamus surfaced from below. Then another. And another. โBehind usโ, our guide shouted as three more surfaced with a loud noise. โLook ahead,โ another person said as five more appeared in the distance.
Hippos breach the surface of the Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi
For a period of time, I didnโt know where to look. As we bobbed up and down in the boat, hippos kept coming and going, seemingly nonstop, so much so that I lost count. I later found out that Liwonde National Park is home to an estimated 2,500 of them!
We continued making our way through the traffic, approaching a family of elephants on the riverbank as they cooled themselves in the water with the evening glow perfectly illuminating the scene. Again, a splash of water, a grunt, and an exclamation: โmore hippos, turn aroundโ.
The sun sets along the flooded shores of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi
I had come across these majestic, yet volatile animals one other time before this trip, but never in this quantity and certainly not from the confines of a rickety boat with nowhere to go.
As we returned to camp at sunset, all I can remember was the feeling of peace and gratitude, ready for a good nightโs sleep after a full day immersed in nature.
6. Sunrise Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa
Ever since whale watching in Kaikoura, New Zealand, I constantly find myself researching whale migration patterns anytime I take a trip thatโs remotely near the coast. As it turns out, August is one of the peak viewing months for Southern Right Whales and the town of Hermanus, South Africa, located less than two hours' drive from Cape Town, is considered to be the whale watching capital of the world.
Too good to be true since I happened to have a month off work in August, right?
My thoughts exactly.
The morning light illuminates the bay in Hermanus, South Africa
Working with a small budget, I opted for the cheapest excursion I could find, which meant waking up at 4 am, bundling up in layers, sleepily making my way to the harbor, boarding a boat in the frigid dark, and heading out to the bay.
Soon enough, the orange glow of the sun warmed the cool South African winter morning as whales played in the waves around us.
Between an unbeatable sunrise scene and several whale sightings, this was one of the highlights of my time spent in South Africa, and an experience I wonโt soon forget.
A whale breaches the water in the morning light in Hermanus, South Africa
5. Nyika National Park, Malawi
A quick internet search labels Nyika National Park as one of the most remote and hardest-to-get-to parts of Malawi.
Located in the Northeast of the country, the park itself spans into neighboring Zambia; however, itโs only accessible from the Malawian side.
Sitting on a plateau that rises to 2,600m, the name โNyikaโ is derived from the phrase โwhere the water comes from.โ
As Malawiโs largest, Nyika National Park is home to herds of zebra and is said (unsubstantiated in recent years), to have the highest density of leopards in Central Africa. From the logistics just to reach the entry gate to the unique and remote landscapes that awaited, I knew it was a must-visit.
The rolling hills of Nyika National Park are often compared to the Scottish Highlands
So, I made my way from Southern Malawi to the north, using any means necessary, from car to moto to public ferry (see MV Ilala below), and finishing with a shared taxi to Mzuzu. Here, I picked up my Toyota Fortuner and set off.
Each time I mentioned โNyikaโ as my destination at the police checkpoints, the officer grinned and said, โcar might not make it, good luck.โ A normal human being might get deterred after the fifth time, but it simply made me more intrigued.
The further I drove, the more the roads narrowed, and I began to question Google Maps. This seemingly endless, single-lane dirt road with no one in sight isnโt the best way to reach the park, right?
Wrong.
Sure enough, after hours of contemplating the repercussions of bursting a tire or overheating the car alone in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, a small cluster of homes appeared and led to the gates of Nyika National Park.
To describe the park as remote is an understatement. So much so that a worker asked to hitch a ride to the campsite; otherwise, he would have to walk the 60km to work and hope that a ride passed by. As it turns out, my new friend was extremely helpful when the car bottomed out and got stuck in the dense mud tracks 30km into the park.
Zebras are one of the most dense animal populations inside Nyika National Park
I finally reached the campsite by nightfall, pitched my tent, dressed in every layer possible (admittedly, as Iโm sure you can tell, I did not extensively research this trip before doing it and was severely underprepared), and settled in as one of three visitors in the entire 1250 square mile park.
The morning sun and campfire was a welcomed warmth to a shivering night. My guide walked me through the rolling hills, spotting herds of zebra along the way, before a solo mountain bike around the campsite in the evening.
Iโm not sure if it was the nature itself or the effort it took to get there, but either way, Nyika National Park is a top thing to do in Malawi, as far as Iโm concerned.
4. Togoโs Akodessawa Voodoo Market
Imagine youโre on the back of a motorbike in Lome, Togo. You arrive at your destination, step onto the sandy road with the afternoon sun beating down, and breathe in.
You nearly gag at the stench, turn a corner, and see an open space; stalls of dead animals line an open space, with a sculpture covered at the center, blackened by sundried blood sacrifices.
Welcome to Togoโs Akodessawa Fetish Market, the largest of its kind in the world.
For West Africans, itโs the one-stop shop for ingredients needed for the Voodoo religion, but for me, it was one of those moments that was a stark reminder of where I was in the world.
Regular blood sacrifices turn the sculpture black from the sunlight
I didnโt quite know what I was getting myself into. The only concepts I had of Voodoo were dolls used as a source of revenge and curses, but, as I learned, the term โBlack Magicโ came with colonial roots. A way to fearmonger and create divide, to justify ongoing occupation of Africa.
Strolling around the market, we encountered everything from monkey tails to puppy heads, snake skin, and more. But what we didnโt find was anything โdarkโ. Instead, Voodoo priests consult with visitors on intrinsic desires, like ensuring safe travels, finding love, or obtaining financial security.
Needless to say, I went into this day with zero expectations, but came away with a deeper, more meaningful understanding and respect of the parts of West African culture that we donโt often learn about.
A dusty stall sells common ingredients for Fetish Priests, just one of many at Akodessawa Festish Market
3. Sani Pass, Lesotho and South Africa
As I planned for a month in South Africa, I kept coming back to the Sani Pass. A 9km stretch of tumultuous road descending from the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho and into South Africa, often described as one of the most thrilling 4x4 roads in the world, itโs commonly touted as the โRoof of Africaโ.
What could possibly go wrong, right?
In this case, a failed 4x4 car rental, an adjusted itinerary, no phone working in Lesotho, and thatโs just the beginning.
When the car rental agency said they couldnโt honor the 4x4 reservation, my brain immediately went to โhow do I make this work?โ I had planned to drive up the pass from South Africa into Lesotho, but surely coming down would be easier.
I took the next few hours to adjust my itinerary, working in reverse, and drove into Lesotho at another order before reaching the pass at the top.
A car carefully navigates the start of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa
It was a windy morning, so much so that I could barely open the car door and stand up straight. I sat at the Sani Mountain Escape for hours, warming myself with a cup of coffee, watching vehicles struggle up the pass and constantly questioning myself and what I was about to do.
As the afternoon rush of tourists from the South African side entered the pub, it was now or never. I walked across the empty road into the Lesotho immigration shack, stamped my passport, got behind the wheel, and slowly started the solo descent in my Rav4.
Thirteen hairpin turns later, each with a comforting name such as โSuicide Bendโ and โDevilโs Cornerโ, I hit the tar again on the South African side, stamped my passport, thanked my lucky stars for the experience, and carried on my way.
To this day, I still vividly hear the final words from the South African Immigration Officer at the bottom border: โThis is a 4x4, right?โ
โI think so,โ I mumbled, before jumping back in the car and driving off.
A view from the bottom of the pass, in South Africa, and back up towards Lesotho, the โRoof of Africaโ
2. Hiking Ghanaโs Waterfalls
Iโm ashamed to admit that I had been visiting Ghana since 2010 as part of Aya, a non-profit founded on the belief that everyone has the right to quality education. That meant that most of the time in the country was spent on hours-long busses between Accra and Berekum instead of exploring.
When I relocated in 2022, I settled in Ghanaโs Eastern Region and was exposed to the natural beauty.
The Akuapem-Togo mountain range, as seen from Ghana, which makes up part of the border with Togo
Fast forward three years and some of my favorite places to explore are the mountains of the Volta Region, on the border with Togo. Not only will you find Mount Afadjato, Ghanaโs tallest peak, here, but the area is also home to stunning waterfalls and hikes.
Nothing beats an early evening stroll to Wli Waterfalls or a morning hike and swim at Tagbo Falls. Make a weekend of it and unwind at Tagbo Falls Ecolodge, one of the best places for some rest and relaxation.
Tagbo Falls as seen from above in Liati Wote, Ghana
1. MV Ilala Ferry, Lake Malawi
Many people ask โwhy Malawi,โ and, to be honest, I donโt really have an answer. I had a month off from work, a flight credit to use, and Malawi fit the criteria of within budget, filled with nature, and plenty of unknowns. So, my response to this question ends up being โwhy not.โ
One experience that I kept coming back to while researching the country was the MV Ilala.
This historic ferry was built in 1949 in Scotland and has since been ferrying passengers and cargo up and down the shores of Lake Malawi since its launch in 1951. Carrying up to 360 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, the MV Ilala runs the length of the lake, from Monkey Bay up to Chilumba near the Tanzanian border, on a weekly schedule.
Passengers help load both cargo and people into fishing boats below, the only way to get to shore at many ports
I needed a way to connect the southern part of my Malawi itinerary to Nyika National Park, and what better way to do that than spend 40 hours on a ferry, packed to the brim with 300+ new friends?
Skeptical that the email I sent a week in advance was enough to secure a cabin, I arrived in Monkey Bay early in the morning to a throng of people and cargo, waiting in line, and was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process.
Ticket in hand, I navigated the crowd and boarded, watching from the top deck as passengers loaded everything from mattresses to stoves, and more. Soon enough, we left the port and were on our way.
Many of the ports of call along the route are too shallow for the ferry to dock, so it was a shock to me when we dropped anchor and fishing boats came out to collect people and baggage, a stream of traffic climbing up and down the side of the ship.
At the second stop, one of the MV Ilalaโs official shore boats stalled its engine and was left stranded bobbing up and down in the lakeโs waves, signaling for help from shore. By the time that was solved, the weather had turned, winds picked up, and the captain was afraid of capsizing, so we stayed put off the shores of Senga Bay, effectively delaying our travel by 7+ hours.
The sun sets along Lake Malawi as we dropped anchor and spent the night after winds picked up
After waking the next morning and wondering why it felt like we werenโt moving (in reality, because we werenโt), the captain cleared us to continue.
A fellow traveler and I decided to disembark at Likoma Island to stretch our legs. As the sun set, we made our way back to the port, elbowed our way into one of the wooden shuttle boats that were so deep you had to stand and use each other for support, before making our way back to the ship in the dark.
Iโm convinced that re-boarding is a special skill, having to wait until the waves lift your boat up, grabbing hold of the railings at the right time, and hoisting yourself back onto the ferry with the help of people behind you making sure you donโt fall backwards.
Getting on and off the MV Ilala is often an adventure in itself, climbing from the side of the sip into awaiting fishing boats
On we went, eventually reaching Nkhata Bay at 3 am. I descended below deck to the massive crowd crush trying to disembark, tossed my bags into a waiting boat, and climbed through the dark to reach them. We finally made it to shore after 2+ days traveling Lake Malawi, I pitched my tent in the dead of night, and watched the MV Ilala Ferry pull out of port the next morning from shore.
An experience I wonโt forget anytime soon.
Looking Back
Iโm now on year four of living in West Africa, and although itโs taught me so much, thereโs plenty more to learn and absorb.
This move and these experiences have brought a necessary shift in my perspective, a boost in resilience and adaptability, and, despite the chaos, a level of calmness I never experienced living in the United States.
Thanks for reading, and cheers to whatever adventures may lie ahead in this crazy life of ours.
What are some of your favorite travel stories? Share in the comments below and, until next time, stay safe & happy travels.
Ready to upgrade your camera gear? Hereโs what travels with me on every trip:
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15 Stunning South Africa Travel Photos To Inspire Your Next Trip
The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountainโand in that moment, I was hookedโฆ
The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountainโand in that moment, I was hooked.
Fast forward fifteen years. With a month off work and already situated on the African continent, there was only one place calling me back: South Africa.
Itโs no secret that South Africa exists in a constant state of tension between its apartheid past and present-day realities. Townships still dot the outskirts of major cities, and crime rates continue to top the continent. But despite this complex backdrop, South Africa has a way of pulling you inโand refusing to let go.
From world-changing history, both evolutionary and geopolitical, and iconic wildlife to unforgettable safaris, dramatic coastlines, and vast landscapes, South Africa is one of the most visually striking countries in the world to photograph.
So, off I wentโcamera in hand.
Maybe these 15 stunning South Africa travel photos will inspire your next trip (fingers crossed).
Ready for more South Africa content? Donโt miss these posts:
1. Good morning, Cape Town
Location: Cape Town, South Africa - Table Mountain
Is there any secret as to why Cape Town is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful cities in the world for South Africa travel photography? All it takes is a window seat on approach into the airport to understand why. The magestic Table Mountain makes for one of the most unique city backdrops in the world, and is also a reason why itโs so hard to take a bad travel photo here.
This particular photograph was taken from the balcony of my apartment and it quickly became a daily ritual to watch the light move across Table Mountain on several crisp winter mornings.
2. Cape Town in Pastel: View from the Gardens
Location: The Gardens Neighborhood, Cape Town, South Africa
Not long after arriving in Cape Town, I fell ill and quickly realized I had brought a case of malaria with me from Ghana (donโt worryโSouth Africa is malaria-free). Each afternoon, the fever would break just long enough for me to get outside and explore.
The walking paths behind the Gardens neighborhood quickly became my go-to, and itโs easy to see why. Soft pastel buildings, quiet streets, and views toward Table Mountain make this one of my favorite spots in the cityโand one of my favorite South Africa travel photos to date. For me, it perfectly captures the calm, colorful essence of Cape Town travel photography.
3. An Afternoon City Break in Cape Townโs Companyโs Garden
Location: The Companyโs Garden, Cape Town, South Africa
Despite visiting towards the end of the winter months, I stumbled upon one of my favorite Table Mountain viewing spots: The Companyโs Rose Garden in the Central Business District.
Originally established in the 1650s to bring fresh supplies for ships passing through, the land now serves as a public park and the perfect spot for some stunning Cape Town travel photography, capturing city life in South Africa.
Once youโre done watching the birds and clouds (the โTableclothโ) move in over Table Mountain, walk around the corner to Truth Coffee Roasting on Buitenkant Street for one of the best cups of coffee in your life (no embellishment necessary).
4. Golden Glow: Whale Watching in Hermanus
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
Every year, the quaint seaside town of Hermanus attracts so many visitors to Walkerโs Bay that itโs commonly referred to as the โWhale Watching Capital of the World.โ
After a month of solo-traveling around this incredible country, whale watching in Hermanus at sunrise was the experience of a lifetime that I hope to not soon forget.
The 5am wake up and freezing temperatures were worth it to capture this golden moment, one of my favorite travel photos from South Africa.
5. South Africaโs Nature Bath: Hermanus
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
The coastal landscapes are so pleasing to look at here that doctors once used to prescribe visits to Hermanus for recovering tuberculosis patients. The proof is in the medicine, right?
Even if getting out into the bay isnโt your cup of tea, thereโs still plenty of South Africaโs nature to take in. Breathe a little easier and take the two hour drive from Cape Town. Itโs worth the effort.
6. Golden Hour in Hermanus: Whales and Crashing Waves
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
No, Iโm not done with Hermanus just yet. This travel photo lives rent-free in my mind so I wanted it in yours, too (youโre welcome).
Crashing waves, a golden sunrise, and whales rolling in the water. The coastal scenery provides all the recipe for a South Africa travel photography stunner, making a whale watching excursion in Hermanus a must-do activity.
7. Pure Bliss on the Hermanus Cliff Walk
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
If whale watching by boat isnโt for you there are still plenty of things to do in Hermanus, including a 12km cliff walk along the shore, making it easy to spot wildlife in the bay. The town even employs an official โWhale Crierโ, blowing his conch every time one is spotted so youโll never miss a beat.
8. Generational Differences: A Pilanesberg Safari Moment
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
A three hour drive from Johannesburg lies Pilanesberg National Park. Not nearly as vast as nearby Kruger, it serves as a smaller-scale safari for shorter trips.
On one of my final game drives, the jeep was nearly empty and we came across this scene: an older male โarguingโ with a teen. Luckily we were the only ones there to bear witness.
9. The Spotter Becomes the Spotted in Pilanesberg National Park
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
Our guide pulled over after spotting a giraffe hidden behind the bush. As I fiddled with my camera, it slowly emerged and turned to face us at the perfect moment.
We quickly became โthe spottedโ on our game drive as the tables turnedโcreating one of my favorite South Africa travel photos, captured during a quiet safari moment in Pilanesberg.
10. โGiraffe Valleyโ Mornings
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
An unofficial nickname, the phrase โGiraffe Valleyโ quickly took hold during my stay at Black Rhino Game Lodge because every time we drove this particular area, we were greeted by several giraffes.
On this particular morning in the freezing cold, the sun hit the frost and mist just right to create this orange glow. We couldnโt find what this giraffe was staring out over the valley, but it never diverted its gaze.
11. Into the Pilanesberg Sunset
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
Once the aforementioned generational scuffle ended, we were treated to this scene: both elephants rumbling off into the sunset. One of the more peaceful South Africa travel photos I was able to capture and my favorite Pilanesberg safari moments.
Hereโs my go-to camera gear when traveling:
12. The Road to Nowhere in Golden Gate Highlands National Park
Location: Golden Gate Highlands National Park, Free State, South Africa
I had a gap in my plans during my South Africa roadtrip after visiting Pilanesberg National Park. One thing led to another and I ended up in nearby Clarens as a base to visit Tugela Falls via the infamous Chain Ladders Route, the second-highest waterfall in the world.
Long story short, a combination of poor planning, time of day, and weather nixed that hike. But the drive back to Clarens passed through Golden Gate Highlands National Park and I decided to pull off and do a short walk. I was treated to the stunning Free State landscapes, herds of wild zebra, and solitude. The afternoon was a lesson in following your gut: things will work out.
13. The Perfect Stopover in Clarens, South Africa
Location: Clarens, Free State, South Africa
Clarens was never part of the plan, but it seemed a good home base for the next stage of my trip โ driving into Lesotho.
Lined with cafes, breweries, and art galleries, this quaint town in South Africaโs Free State is also at the doorstep of jaw-dropping landscapes at neighboring Golden Gate Highlands National Park.
14. Toyota RAV4 vs. Sani Pass
Location: Sani Pass, Drakensberg Mountains, Lesoth-South Africa Border
Driving the Sani Pass was the top item to accomplish during my solo travel around South Africa, so when the rental company in Johannesburg couldnโt give me a 4x4 as was required to drive the road, I had a decision to make.
Do I skip it, or find a way?
Thatโs the story of how my trusted RAV4 and I (slowly) made our way down from Lesotho and back into South Africa along the infamous Sani Pass. The road was rough and the descent difficult, but the sweeping views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains were worth it.
15. Unexpected Peace in KwaZulu-Natal
Location: Howick, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
From the Drakensberg Mountains, I made my way into the rolling hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands with the intention of visiting Nelson Mandelaโs capture site.
What I found instead was unexpected calmโgentle landscapes, open skies, and endless greenery like Gray Mareโs Trail in nearby Karkloof Nature Reserve. It was a quiet reminder that some of the most peaceful moments of travel come when plans take a back seat
My solo travel started in Cape Town, often named the worldโs most beautiful city by Time Out Magazine โ and itโs easy to see why. Mountains, outdoor space, coffee, rich culture and endless diversityโฆ you could leave me there and Iโd be set for life.
But when you inevitably book that trip, push yourself beyond the city limits and into the far corners of the country. Discover the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Drakensberg Mountains. Drive the wide-open roads of the Free State and jump into South' Africaโs wildlife.
You wonโt regret it.
In the meantime, I hope these 15 South Africa travel photos help to keep that wanderlust alive and offer a little inspiration for your next adventure.
Questions? Anything to add? Drop it in the comments below. Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa: Top Tips for an Unbeatable Experience
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life. Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the โWhale Watching Capital of the Worldโ as itโs sometimes referred toโฆ.
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life.
Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the โWhale Watching Capital of the Worldโ as itโs sometimes referred to.
What once was a peaceful village, so much so that doctors used to prescribe visits for recovering tuberculosis patients, now attracts between 75,000 and 130,000 visitors every September/October to celebrate the return of the Southern Right Whales to the harbor.
Less than a two-hour drive from Cape Town, the question isnโt โwhy goโ; rather, itโs โwhy not? ' After a month of solo travel around South Africa, Hermanus remains at the top of my list of places to return!
From majestic marine life to stunning coastal views, hereโs everything you need to know to make the most of your whale-watching trip in Hermanus.
The town of Hermanus, South Africa as seen from the Hermanus Cliff Walk
History of Hermanus, South Africa
Hermanus, a small coastal town in the Western Cape of South Africa, has long been a haven for southern right whales. These gentle giants migrate to the warm waters of the South African coastline between June and November to mate and calve, en route to warmer Mozambican waters.
The whales get their namesake, โRightโ, simply by being labeled as the โrightโ whale to kill, nearly to the brink of extinction in the early 20th century. Still, these majestic creatures have been protected in South Africa since 1935 and have gradually increased their population.
Other species spotted in Walkerโs Bay include Orcas, Humpback Whales, and Byrdeโs Whales.
Whale watching originally began in Hermanus as a land-based activity, thanks to the incredible visibility from the townโs cliffs. In fact, the 12km cliff walk is still an easy (and free) way to spot the whales from the shore.
So much so, in 1992 Hermanus employed an official โWhale Crierโ to sound a kelp horn and alert tourists to sightings. Yes, this still exists today, and the Hermanus Whale Crier is the only one of its kind in the world!
Fun fact: At one point, Hermanus and the town Whale Crier was so popular, that he was known as the second most photographed South Africanโฆ behind Nelson Mandela.
Today, companies like Southern Right Charters offer eco-friendly boat tours that bring you closer to these magnificent creatures while respecting their natural habitat.
Sunrise over Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
How to get to Hermanus, South Africa
The beauty in Hermanus is how conveniently located it is, about 120 km (75 miles) from Cape Town, making it an easy weekend getaway. Of course, a day trip works as well but when you arrive and feel the energy, you wonโt want to leave.
By Car:
Drive along the scenic R43 route, which takes approximately 1.5โ2 hours from Cape Town.
I rented a car, picking up and dropping off at Cape Town International Airport. A two-day rental from Alamo cost less than USD 90 and allowed me to explore more along the way. It was completely worth it.
By Shuttle or Tour:
Many tour operators offer guided transport options from Cape Town. Check out these reliable options from Get Your Guide if youโd like more relaxation, and less planning!
Pro tip: Opt for the car rental and pair the drive from Cape Town to Hermanus with stopovers at Cape of Good Hope and Boulders Beach to make the most of this scenic drive.
Interested in more posts from South Africa? Donโt miss these posts:
Whale Watching in Hermanus: What to expect
There are a limited number of tour operators licensed to move from Hermanusโ Harbor, so be sure to plan in advance during the peak whale-watching season. For my visit, I chose Southern Right Charters because I was trying to make the most of my time in town, and they offer a unique, 6:30am sunrise tour that no one else does.
Southern Right is one of the most trusted and environmentally responsible companies for whale watching in Hermanus, having been in operation since 1999, so it seemed like a perfect fit (and it was). Hereโs what you need to do before booking a tour:
Details & Costs
Tour Duration:
A trip can last anywhere between 1.5-3 hours, with most excursions averaging 2 hours. They donโt limit a trip based on time, rather it's based upon the best experience possible.
Cost (as of April 2025):
Adults: R1440 (USD 75)
Students/Seniors: R1350 (USD 70)
Under 12: R720 (USD 40)
Under 3: Free
Booking:
It's best to reserve your spot online in advance, especially during peak season, however bookings can be made in person at their office.
Note: Remember this tour is about spotting wildlife and Southern Right Charters canโt control how many whales are seen. One of the perks of booking through this company is that they offer either a 50% refund or a free reservation on another tour if your trip is canceled, interrupted, or unsuccessful.
A Southern Right Whale breaches the waters of Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
How to prepare for a Southern Right Charter tour
I visited in August and one thing I did NOT account for after living in West Africa for a year, was that it was winter in South Africa. That, combined with the 6:30am pre-sunrise departure, letโs just say I was grossly underprepared.
So, hereโs your chance to learn from my mistakes!
Layer Up.
Both base layers and an outer layer to cut the wind. The trip sets off in the dark. Whether seated inside the catamaran or standing on the top deck, youโll the crisp morning air. Needless to say, my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket was well worth the investment.
Pack gloves or hand warmers.
Thereโs nothing worse than spotting a whale rolling in the waves with the sun rising in the background and going to snap a photo with frozen fingers. The warm drinks that Southern Right Charters offers is a good start, but best to back a back-up plan. Hereโs the power bank/electric warmer I never leave home without, because you donโt want your phone to die or hands to freeze as you get to take the photo of the year!
Any medications needed.
Yes, Southern Right has a boat that offers maximum stability, but this does not mean you wonโt sill be rocking and rolling in the waves. If you get seasick, plan ahead. You donโt want to feel unwell on a magical experience like this! If you donโt like medication, try these anti-nausea bands that use acupressure. They were a lifesaver during my time on Semester at Sea!
Get there early.
Each trip starts with a required safety briefing. Donโt be that late shower that holds the group up. Get there ahead of the suggested time and be ready to go.
Overall, Iโd highly recommend the sunrise tour as it was a unique experience to witness the whales rolling in the waves with sand dunes and the sun rising over the mountains as a backdrop. This trip was right up there on my list of top whale watch experiences, right alongside Kaikoura, New Zealand.
Of course, South Africa is far more than just whale watching so itโs important to plan ahead, do your research, and put together a comprehensive packing list!
Setting out with Southern Right Charters at sun rise for a whale watch excursion
Other ways to whale watch in Hermanus, South Africa
No problem! Thatโs where the Hermanus Cliff Walk comes into action. This 12km paved pathway winds its way along the rocky coastline, providing the ultimate viewpoints to whale watch from land.
Personally, I spent my morning with Southern Right Charters on the sunrise tour, and the rest of the day spotting Southern Right Whales breaching the waters from the cliff walk while popping in and out of cafes around town. It's hard to miss the whales with a reliable Whale Crier surveilling the bay!
Note: As the path is paved, most of the cliff walk is accessible to wheelchairs, making it easy for anyone to experience the magic of whale watching.
A Southern Right Whale spotted from the Hermanus Cliff Walk in South Africa
Beyond whale whatcing in Hermanus
Although world famous thanks to the Southern Right Whales, Hermanus is more than just marine life with plenty to explore. Located on Market Square St. in the heart of town is the Old Harbor Market, a collection of handcrafts and locally made goods.
Spend an afternoon wandering the Whale Museum or hop between cozy coffee shops to slow down and enjoy village life (Platล Coffee is my favorite).
Looking for more activity and nature? Be sure to explore the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and all 60km of trails that zigzag through the mountains.
Where to stay for the best Hermanus experience
For my trip, I chose to stay at an Airbnb after finding this cozy place located just across the street from the Hermanus Cliff Walk. It was a perfect mix of peace and quiet while remaining within walking distance of the town center and a supermarket.
Other options include Hermanus Backpackers ($), Zzzone Boutique Hostel ($$), and Bamboo Guest House ($$$).
Pro Tip: Ever heard of load shedding? This is when planned power outages occur in South Africa to conserve the energy grid. After living in West Africa for nearly three years, it was a welcomed improvement to at least be told when the power would cut and for how long! Pay attention so you can be sure your devices are charged ahead of time.
Sunrise from the helm of Southern Right Charters tour in Hermanus, South Africa
A whale-watching trip in Hermanus is an unparalleled experience and at the top of my list of things to do in South Africa. Whether you're spotting these majestic creatures from the boat or enjoying the coastal walkway of Hermanus, this journey is well worth the short trip from Cape Town.
Have you been whale watching in Hermanus or elsewhere around the world? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Hereโs your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfallsโฆ
Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.
If you havenโt caught on yet, Iโm a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Hereโs your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!
Ghanaโs Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo
Know Before You Go: Wli Waterfalls Background
Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.
Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. Youโll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.
So, now that youโre hooked, whenโs the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.
Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.
In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but youโll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, Iโd choose the rainy season, but itโs a great place to spend an afternoon either way.
Finally, itโs important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).
Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!
Standing beneath Ghanaโs Wli Waterfalls
How to get to Wli Waterfalls
Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.
To get hereโฆ
By Car: From Accra, itโs about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).
By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.
Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.
Entrance fees & costs
For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.
Entry Fee (Lower Falls):
Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)
Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)
Upper Falls Guided Hikes:
Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)
Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)
Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.
Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghanaโs economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.
Interested in exploring more of Ghanaโs Volta Region? Check out these posts:
What to expact at Wli Falls
Lower Falls
A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghanaโs lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. Youโll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.
Youโll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if youโre lucky, youโll catch them flying off the rocks
Upper Falls
For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.
Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.
Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, youโll be on your way back out!
Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana
Nearby places to visit
The Volta Region is full of amazing nature and experiences, so make your trip even more memorable by exploring more near Wli Waterfalls:
Amedzofe Canopy Walk:
A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where youโll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.
Mount Afadja (Afadjato):
Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.
Tagbo Falls:
Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghanaโs nature.
What to bring
Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.
Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you donโt plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghanaโs heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.
Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if thereโs a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.
Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!
A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africaโs tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.
A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a tripโitโs an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether youโre splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, youโll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.
Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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Tagbo Falls: A Hikerโs Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana
The Volta Region is home to some of the countryโs most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Fallsโa hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the areaโฆ.
Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghanaโs economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.
Ten years. Thatโs the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and Iโll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.
The Volta Region is home to some of the countryโs most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Fallsโa hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.
Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.
Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.
View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato
How to get to Tagbo Falls
Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghanaโs highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:
From Accra:
Itโs about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accraโs Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.
Through Golokwati:
An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.
Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset
Hiking to Tagbo Falls & what to expect
Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means itโs important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.
The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless itโs rainy season.
The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.
Interested in exploring more of Ghanaโs Volta Region? Check out these posts:
Hereโs a breakdown of what to plan for:
Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where youโll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife โ the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. Itโs tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someoneโs livelihood and itโs best to leave the trail as you found it.
Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, youโll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.
The Waterfall: Once you arrive, youโll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. Thereโs a sign post stating โNo Swimmingโ but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that donโt know how to swim from trying.
Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided. That said, itโs also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.
The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.
The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot
Packing tips & tricks for Tagbo Falls
Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.
Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.
Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.
Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. Itโs recommended to pack in everything you think youโll need.
Camera: The scenery is stunning, and youโll want to capture the moment!
Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. Itโs also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway โ I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!
Best time to visit Tagbo Falls
The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.
Itโs hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls
Places to stay near Tagbo Falls
While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:
Wli Waterfalls Lodge:
Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.
Afadjato Guesthouse:
This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.
Tagbo Falls Lodge:
This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philominaโs stove-top bread with garlic butter!
Nearby Attractions
Mount Afadjato:
If youโre feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? Itโs a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. Thereโs nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.
Wli Falls:
Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. Itโs the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.
Amedzofe Canopy Walk:
About an hourโs drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghanaโs highest elevated settlement. Here youโll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. Itโs definitely a spot worth checking out!
The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls
It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghanaโs most beautiful natural landscapes.
Whether youโre a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.
So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!
In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!
Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!
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Exploring Mole National Park: Ghanaโs Premier Wildlife Destination
Mole National Park is Ghanaโs largest and most famous wildlife reserve, offering a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. Located in the northern part of the country, itโs a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for an immersive safari experience...
Note: All information is up to date as October 2024 and is based around staying at the Mole Motel, however other accommodations exist within the park and are included in the post below.
Mole National Park is Ghanaโs largest and most famous wildlife reserve. Located in the northern part of the country, it offers a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. Itโs a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for a unique safari experience.
After visiting Ghana for the past fifteen years and living here full-time for two, itโs a place thatโs at the top of my list to not only bring visitors to but also myself to recharge and slow down!
An elephant is spotted on a morning game drive at Mole National Park in Ghana
History of Mole National Park
Established in 1958 and officially designated as a national park in 1971, Mole National Park covers approximately 4,849 square kilometers. It is home to over 90 mammal species, including elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, and antelopes. Depending on the park ranger, you may even hear a tale about the elusive lions that some say still roam the expansive interior forests. The park also boasts nearly 300 bird species, making it a hotspot for birdwatchers.
One of the Moleโs unique features is its year-round accessibility and the chance to observe elephants up close, especially during the dry season when they frequent waterholes. As one of West Africaโs best-preserved wildlife reserves, Mole National Park continues to attract travelers looking for an authentic African safari experience in a less commercialized setting.
Iโve visited the park in January, April, August, and December and have never been disappointed with wildlife viewing. Warthogs roam the motel grounds and even elephants come to say โhelloโ at times. Careful of the baboons, though. Theyโve been known to steal your food at the restaurant and open your room if itโs not locked โ speaking from experience.
An antelope is spotted in the morning glow at Mole National Park - Ghana, West Africa
How to get to Ghanaโs Mole National Park
Mole National Park is located in northern Ghana, approximately 150 kilometers from Tamale, the capital of the Northern Region. There are several ways to get there:
By Air: The easiest way is to fly from Accra to Tamale Airport. From Tamale, a private vehicle can be arranged through your accommodations. Other options include a shared taxi or a bus to Mole, which takes around 3-4 hours. Note: things are spread apart in the northern areas of Ghana. The most efficient option is a private vehicle with driver that costs GHC 1,500 round trip.
By Road: For those who prefer road travel, buses operate from Accra, Kumasi, and other major cities to Larabanga, the nearest town to the park. From Larabanga, itโs a short ride to Mole National Park.
Donโt want to do the planning? Check out these top-rated tours:
Entrance and Accommodation at Mole National Park
The beauty of Mole National Park lies in its affordable rates compared to other safari destinations in Africa. The entry fees are as follows:
Ghanaian citizens: GHS 10โ15 (approx. USD 1โ2)
Non-residents: GHS 40โ60 (approx. USD 4โ6)
*Discounts apply for children and students
Vehicles: Vehicles must also pay a nominal entrance fee into the park. This is the case even if a driver is dropping you off and will pick you in a few days. A Ghana registered car will cost GHC 5.00.
Accommodation: Mole offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets, all located within the park:
Mole Motel:
This budget-friendly option offers basic rooms and chalets with stunning views of the parkโs watering holes, where elephants and other animals often gather. Rates start around USD 30โ75 per night. A range of accommodations is available, from dorm rooms to chalets overlooking the watering hole.
Although basic and far from luxurious, most rooms include A/C and I can personally attest that they have made several improvements over the years. Plus, the whole point is to be outdoors and enjoy nature, right?
A restaurant and bar exists onsite and offers a wide variety of food, including pizzas, burgers, local foods, and even Chinese. If youโre looking for a truly northern Ghana experience, don't miss the guinea fowl. This tough meat is a Ghanaian favorite in that part of the country!
Mole Motel is a great place to bring a book, enjoy a Club beer, and relax by the pool while spotting elephants below. Itโs one of my favorite places in Ghana to experience a sunset.
Itโs not uncommon to see a family of warthogs grazing the grounds or elephants visiting the motel for breakfast! Sometimes the universe is in your favor and the wildlife comes to you.
Note: Although Mole Motel is listed as having wifi, the network is very unstable It works enough to send messages from your phone, depending on where you are, but I would not recommend coming here for remote work.
Zaina Lodge:
For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Zaina Lodge offers high-end accommodations with private tented chalets, an infinity pool, and premium services. Prices start at USD 300 per night and are inclusive of meals and game drives.
I havenโt stayed here because I prefer Mole Motel. Part of the charm of northern Ghana is the raw and remote wilderness, but I can see how a luxury place like this would be great for family vacations!
Camping:
For the more adventurous, camping facilities are available within the park near the ranger's station just outside of Mole Motel. Youโll need your own gear, and fees are approximately GHS 50 (USD 3) per night.
Mole Motel in Ghana as seen from the watering hole
What to expect at Mole National Park
Visiting Mole National Park provides an unforgettable safari experience without the crowds typical of other African reserves. The best times to visit are during the dry season (November to April), when animals congregate around water sources, making sightings easier.
Three of the most common activities in Mole National Park are walking safaris, game drives, and birdwatching:
Walking Safari:
Mole is one of the few national parks in Africa where you can go on a walking safari. Accompanied by armed rangers, youโll explore the park on foot and get incredibly close to elephants, antelope, and more. Some level of fitness is required for this and itโs best to go early in the morning to avoid the heat.
If you donโt spot elephants on your trek, donโt worry. Rangers will happily take you back into the bush when they are spotted near the watering hole throughout the day (for an additional fee, of course).
The walking safaris are so cheap because all you pay for is a guide at an hourly rate (GHC 12 per hour for non-nationals). You read that right: a two-hour walking safari with elephants will cost you GHC 24, around USD 1.50. These occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm each day and no sign-up is required. Simply show up at the guard station!
Game Drives:
Open-top vehicle safaris offer a different perspective of the park, covering larger distances and giving you a better chance of spotting wildlife like warthogs, buffalo, and birds of prey.
There are day-time and night-time safari options, both with unique advantages. Iโd recommend doing both as the drive in the dark gives unparalleled views of the stars and youโll often see different animals such as bush babies, genet cats, owls, and more. If youโre lucky, maybe youโll see an elephant both during the day and night!
For small children and those with fitness concerns, driving is the more comfortable and accessible option.
Compared to a walking safari, the game drives are a bit more expensive as you must pay both the guide and vehicle fees. A safari-vehicle rental fee for both day and night is GHC 200 per hour and a guide fee for non-nationals at night is GHC 40 per hour while daytime is GHC 12 per hour.
This means a two-hour game drive during the day will cost you GHC 424, around USD 25, and at night GHC 480, or USD 30. If you make friends at motel, share a vehicle and lower the costs by splitting the vehicle fee between people.
Similar to walking safaris, game drives occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm daily, while night drives take place from 7pm-9pm.
Note: Book your night safari early at the guard station. These must be reserved in advance to ensure a vehicle is available.
Birdwatching:
Mole is a paradise for birdwatchers, with species such as the white-backed vulture, martial eagle, and saddle-billed stork commonly spotted. Birdwatching tours are also available for those keen to explore the avian diversity and can be enquired through Mole National Parkโs website.
A Woodland Kingfisher is spotted with an elephant in the background - Mole National Park, Ghana
Things to do near Mole National Park in Ghanaโs Northern Region
Mole National Park is a gateway to several other exciting destinations in northern Ghana and many visitors pair it with a cultural trip to the surrounding areas. Donโt be surprised if youโre approached by a tour guide at the motel; this is common practice!
Larabanga Mosque:
Just a 20-minute drive from Mole, this ancient mosque is an architectural gem and holds significant religious and historical importance in Ghana. Visitors can take guided tours to learn about its fascinating history, and explore community projects in the village like the local school and a shea butter-making process.
Mognori Eco-Village:
Located just outside the park, this community-run initiative offers visitors the chance to experience traditional village life. You can take a canoe safari along the Mole River or enjoy a cultural drumming and dancing session with the locals.
Ready to explore more of Ghanaโs natural beauty? Donโt miss these posts:
Packing tips for Mole National Park
Make no mistake about it, although Mole National Park is a well-visited tourist destination, itโs still very remote and there are some important considerations when packing. Hereโs what to bring:
Cash โ Credit cards are accepted at the Mole Motel and Restaurant (network dependent), but itโs cash-only to pay the park rangers for the safaris. Thereโs also a small provisions and gift shop which is also cash-only. Stop at an ATM in Tamale and pull out enough money for your visit.
Medicine โ You never know how your body will respond to different foods in remote areas. Itโs best to pack basic medicines for stomach issues, allergies, and more. On one trip my friend was stung by a wasp, his eye swelled, and all we could do was โiceโ it with the coldest water bottle we could find. There is a small health clinic in the nearby village within park borders, but donโt rely on this (speaking from experience)!
Warm Clothes โ If visiting in December, it gets cold at night which means the morning and night game drives will require you to bring layers. It sounds odd given Ghanaโs equatorial location, but trust me when I say the last thing you want is to be on top of a safari vehicle shivering for two hours.
Torch โ When the sun goes down, it gets dark and the last thing you want to do is stumble upon a mother warthog grazing with her children. The grounds within the motel gates are small, but itโs still useful to have a torch to get back to your room after a few drinks at the bar to cap off a day of adventure.
Portable Charger - This comes in handy for multiple reasons. You wonโt want your phone dying on a safari just when you track down an elephant. If you have the right model, it also serves as a hand warmer for those cool savanna mornings and evenings.
A hazy December sunset overlooking the watering hole at Mole National Park in Ghana
Mole National Park offers a unique and tranquil safari experience, perfect for travelers who want to immerse themselves in nature and observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Whether walking alongside elephants or watching a sunset over the savannah from the lodge, Mole promises a serene and unforgettable adventure. With its affordable prices, accessible location, and nearby cultural attractions, itโs an essential stop on any Ghana travel itinerary.
Ready to explore Ghanaโs wild side? Start planning your Mole National Park adventure today and check out more posts about this incredible country below!
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After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the worldโฆ