Discover Tranquility at Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana. This small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region…
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana.
Owned by Jolinaiko Eco-Tours, this small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region.
Relax in a hammock and get lost in a good book, enjoy delicious food, or explore the village… there’s something for everyone.
Here’s everything you need to know about staying at this hidden gem in Liati Wote, Ghana.
Let me be the first to welcome you to Tagbo Falls Lodge!
Mount Aduadu above the lush forests of Ghana’s Volta Region
ABOUT THE AREA: LIATI WOTE AND GHANA’S VOLTA REGION
Tagbo Falls Lodge is situated on the edge of a picturesque village, Liati Wote. Nestled near the border with Togo in Ghana’s Volt Region, this part of the country is renowned for its rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.
Although less than 600 members, Liati Wote prides itself on its community-based tourism approach, warmly welcoming people from all over the world to their slice of paradise in the mountains.
At first, I’ll admit, I was a bit put off by the term “tourist village”, imagining the all-too-often haggling on the streetside, drummers and dancers dressing up to beat drums for eager ears, ultimately existing to please the tourists rather than educate.
Boy, I was wrong. Liati Wote is nothing but laid back, making it possible to coexist to whatever degree you wish during your stay. That’s hard to find a world full of overtourism and the opportunism that comes from it.
Take a few steps down the dirt road outside the entrance and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of Ghana’s highest peak, Mount Afadjato. Keep walking towards town and you’ll find your way to the trailhead to the stunning Tagbo Falls (be sure to bring a swimsuit).
Liati Wote isn’t just about nature, though. Wander around town and you’ll quickly spot waste bins all around, part of a plastic waste reduction initiative from the Stepping Stones of Africa Foundation.
More recently, the NGO established the Nuku Arts Center in town, offering a workspace for upcycling while providing locally handmade goods for purchase.
Are you sold yet? Whether you’re a solo traveler, backpacker, or nature enthusiast, Liati Wote is a must-visit spot on any Volta Region travel itinerary.
Looking for more posts about Ghana’s Volta Region? Check these out:
HOW TO GET TO LIATI WOTE, GHANA, AND TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Getting to Tagbo Falls Lodge isn’t necessarily easy, but that’s part of the fun, right? From Accra, take a bus or drive to HoHoe, the largest city in the Volta Region. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared minibus (locally called “tro-tro”) to Liati Wote.
In the past, I’ve taken tro-tro from the Tema-Akosombo road to Golokwati, before hiring a motorbike to take me the final 45min to Liati Wote. This is the more adventurous way to arrive, but there’s nothing quite like cruising down dirt roads in the fresh mountain air.
Estimated travel time from Accra: 5–6 hours
From Hohoe to Liati Wote: ~40min by road
Pro tip: Wherever you’re coming from, do yourself a favor and plan to take a private taxi. It eliminates stress, and Ghana’s tro-tro system has a less-than-stellar safety record. Worry less about how to get there, and more about what you’ll do once you reach the lodge!
Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
COST OF ACCOMMODATION AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Tagbo Falls Lodge offers a range of accommodations that suit every budget, making it ideal for families and solo travelers, alike. Here is the current list of rooms available, as of 2025:
Banana Room (1 queen bed, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Orange Room (2 single beds, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Papaya Room R3 (2 single beds, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Papaya Room R4 (1 queen bed, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Pineapple Room (1 double bed, 2 single beds, private bathroom): 500/650* GHS/night (USD 32/42)
Chalet R6 (1 double bed, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R7 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R8 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
The asterisk is the price for using solar-powered air conditioning. If you can survive off fans, then you’ll pay the lower rate.
Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge does not include breakfast, so that’s important to factor in. With that said, the food here is some of the best I’ve had at any eco-lodge in Ghana. It will be well worth the nominal cost, I promise.
Speaking from experience, it’s important to plan ahead and book early. Weekends fill up quickly, so if you need more flexibility it’s best to try to visit during the week and off-holiday periods.
Ready to book? Contact them directly via WhatsApp at +233 54 955 8307 for any enquiries.
Morning sunrise in Liati Wote, Ghana
WHAT TO EXPECT DURING YOUR STAY AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Tagbo Falls Lodge makes it easy to unplug and reconnect with nature. Upon arrival to the beautiful grounds, you’ll meet the friendly staff, get situated in your room, and immediately start to feel any stress melt away.
Everything about the lodge is cultivated to slow down and step back. If you need guidance they’re there to help, but if you need space, no one will bug you. I have met some wonderful people and have heard some incredible stories from those working there, though, so take time to interact and get to know them (especially Madam Philomina, who cooks all of the delicious meals).
In the middle of the lodge is the communal lounge where meals are served, complete with a bar stocked with local drinks. My personal favorites are the hibiscus juice and Tale Beer’s Hibiscus IPA… I guess you can see a trend there, huh?
Not a fan of independent travel? Check out this tour from Get Your Guide, the best of Ghana’s Volta Region!
There’s limited Wi-Fi (very limited), so bring a good book and be ready to slow down. The data network is also virtually nonexistent except for certain spots in the village, which is my favorite aspect (good luck getting in touch, work colleagues).
If you’re lucky enough to be there as a storm hits, grab a drink and head for the viewing platform and the front of the property to watch clouds and lightning roll in through the mountains surrounding Liati Wote.
One of the best parts of staying at Tagbo Falls Lodge that I haven’t touched on is the food. This is some of the best and most affordable food I’ve had in Ghana and if I find myself within an hour’s drive, I always make it a point to stop by for lunch.
Madam Philomina and her team do a fantastic job, offering both local and continental dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options. Personal favorites include the baobab smoothie (baobab is a superfood native to Northern Ghana but lesser known), coconut curry rice (85 GHS/USD 5.50), and the homemade bread and garlic butter (40 GHS/USD 3).
This is one of the few places you can taste the passion and effort that goes into making the food. I will forever be a Philomina fan – be sure to ask about her duty as Queen Mother of Kpando, a small village on the bank of Lake Volta!
Whether it’s the end of a day full of relaxation or adventure, fall asleep with a happy stomach to the sound of crickets and rushing water and wake up to misty mountain views and crisp, clean air (a rarity in Ghana).
Tagbo Falls Lodge is a top eco-lodge in the country when it comes to its staff, cost, and location, and is a must-include for any Ghana itinerary.
It’s not hard to relax in the gardens of Tagbo Falls Lodge
MUST-DO ATTRACTIONS NEARBY
Although it’s easy to lose track of time and relax at Tagbo Falls Lodge, it also serves as the perfect home base for many other Volta Region activities. Here's what you can do nearby:
1. Hike to Tagbo Falls
The trail to Tagbo Falls is scenic and moderately easy, with a short 45-minute walk through the forest. The waterfall itself is spectacular—cascading into a clear pool that’s perfect for a refreshing dip.
2. Climb Mount Afadjato
Up for a challenge? Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s highest peak. It’s a steep but rewarding 1–2 hour hike, offering panoramic views over the Volta highlands and into neighboring Togo.
3. Visit Amedzofe, Ghana’s Highest Elevated Settlement
Just an hour’s drive away, Amedzofe is another eco-tourism paradise. Walk to the top of Mount Gemi for unparalleled views across the valley below or stroll along the canopy walkway through the forest.
4. Swim in West Africa’s Tallest Waterfall
Pick a moto and ride 40 minutes north along stunning mountain landscapes before arriving at the Wli tourist center. Follow a short, easily accessible trail, and feel the power of Wli Falls, one of Ghana’s top waterfall hikes.
Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana’s best waterfall hikes in the Volta Region
If the above doesn’t sell you on a visit to Tagbo Falls Lodge, then it’s possible you’re on the wrong blog! Just kidding (sort of).
In all seriousness, there are few places I’ve visited throughout my travels in Africa that are as authentic and wholesome as this. It’s time to book that trip for the real Ghana experience.
Tagbo Falls Lodge, Liati Wote, Ghana—add it to your travel list.
Have you visited Ghana’s Volta Region before? Share your experiences in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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A Complete Guide to Visiting the World's Largest Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo
A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries…
Note: All information below is updated as of March 2025, but as countries in West Africa rapidly change, so too can provided facts and figures.
A quick search for ‘things to do in Togo’ and it becomes clear; there’s not much happening with the tourism industry beyond the Grand Market in Lomé, the lush nature of Kpalimé, and the sleepy seaside town of Aneho.
It’s no wonder that one of the main tourist sites remains the Akodessawa Market, more commonly known as the Voodoo Market.
A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries, including in neighboring Benin where Voodoo is the official religion.
Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.
**NOTE: Photos below include dead animals. Proceed with caution!**
A vendor at the Akodessawa Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo sells ingredients
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE VOODOO MARKET
Voodoo, or Vodun, originated in West Africa and has deep roots in the region's spiritual practices. A form of animalism, the religion has over 40 different gods or fetiches, and each one chooses their feticheur or fetish priest with whom they communicate.
Guides at Akodessawa Market are quick to point out that ‘Black Magic’ isn’t bad. Although it’s widely practiced and holds a negative connotation, it stems from colonialism, as European colonizers felt the need to label these Indigenous spiritual practices. The term “black” was used to symbolize something negative about the locals, leveraging the fear of the unknown to further create division amongst the population.
Opening in 1863, this hub in Akodessawa has quickly become the world’s largest Voodoo market through a sort of “farm-to-table approach”. Most fetish markets only supply ingredients, requiring buyers to commute between priest locations whereas in Lomé, fetish priests are onsite to provide immediate guidance.
Whether you're searching for remedies, seeking a talisman, or need counsel from a fetish priest, the market provides an authentic dive into Voodoo culture. The guides emphasize that only “white magic” is practiced here, so don’t worry, the only purpose is to help and heal rather than hurt.
A shrine for Vodun Gou, or the Iron God, protects the market. Goat and sheep sacrifices produce the black color from the sun-dried blood.
HOW TO GET AKODESSAWA VOODOO MARKET
The Voodoo Market is located in Akodessawa, a district of Lomé, the capital of Togo.
By Car/Taxi: From Lomé city center, it’s about a 15-minute drive to the market. Taxis are affordable and widely available.
By Moto-Taxi: For a more adventurous ride hop on a moto-taxi, the most efficient means of transport. When transiting through the busy Lomé port, my moto driver hopped onto the sidewalk and passed the stand-still traffic! Problem solved.
By Public Transport: Minibuses heading to Akodessawa can drop you off near the market.
Pro tip: Ask locals for directions or use navigation apps to avoid confusion, as the market isn’t always well-marked. Google Maps is accurate, whether using ‘Akodessawa Market’ or ‘Voodoo Market’.
ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS
There’s a small entrance fee of around 3,000 CFA francs (less than USD 5). A guide is required and although I don’t normally use one in this part of the world, it turned out to be the most important part of truly understanding what the fetish market is.
If you’re interested in purchasing souvenirs or talismans, prices can vary widely, so don’t be afraid to haggle.
Pro tip: A photography permit comes with an extra 2,000 CFA charge, a little more than USD 3 (it is said that this fee is “negotiated with the gods,” so prepare for some flexibility).
Dead animal parts for sale used to make powders and pastes by fetish priests
WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE MARKET
To sum it up… prepare for sensory overload! One of the first things people note is the putrid smell, a combination of deceased animals with the scorching sun. Truthfully, it didn’t bug me all that much, but maybe that’s due to semesters spent in cadaver labs. Either way, know the possibility is there.
Upon entry, you’ll be asked to pay the small entrance cost, be greeted by your tour guide, and slowly make your way around the market. Statues of gods are dotted around the dusty, open lot while vendors with crocodile skin, monkey heads, dead cats, and more line the perimeter.
Unique to the market environment is that it is, first and foremost, a functioning local market, but also a thriving tourist site. The people arriving on motos are in search of ingredients for powders and cures, the people shuffling in and out of the priests’ shacks are there for spiritual guidance. The Akodessawa market is a rare mix between tourism and local life.
The most touristic part of the market? The makeshift voodoo dolls that are known to Westerners as the preconceived ‘black magic’, but no one is coming here to curse others and poke them in the chest. Rather, people are in search of love healing, fertility, and even blessings for safe travel.
Keep an open mind and respect the culture—this is not just a tourist attraction but a living, spiritual space. People often travel from neighboring Benin to buy supplies and consult with priests.
Once finished exploring the grounds, the guide will usher you into a shack where you'll meet with a local fetish priest and learn about different talismans. The four presented to me were for good luck, love, safe travels, and to help with bad dreams. In classic tourism fashion, the priest then asks if you wish to purchase any (for a far-too-expensive fee). Smart move, because who wants to haggle with a priest?
Pro tip: As noted above, this is a functional local market with religious significance. Be sure to ask permission before taking photographs.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Once done roaming the Voodoo Market, make the most of your trip to Togo by exploring these nearby attractions:
Lomé Grand Market: A bustling marketplace where you can find everything from colorful fabrics to fresh produce. Arguably the most photographed spot in Togo, this is where you can glimpse the Sacred Heart Cathedral amidst the bustling streets.
Independence Monument: A symbol of Togo’s independence, the monument is located in the heart of the city.
Togoville: A historic town across Lake Togo, known as the birthplace of voodoo.
International Museum of the Gulf of Guinea: An unassuming house filled with woodwork and art from around West Africa. A nominal fee is required to enter.
Aneho: Where the sea meets Lake Togo’s estuary, this sleepy beach town is the perfect escape from city life and is conveniently located on the border with Benin.
Ingredients for sale in Lomé’s Akodessawa Market, Togo
A visit to Lomé’s Voodoo Market is an unforgettable journey into the heart of West African indigenous beliefs. Whether you’re a history buff, a curious traveler, or a spiritual seeker, this market promises a fascinating and immersive experience. Would I return? Absolutely. There's still so much to unpack and learn about this misrepresented part of the world.
Would you visit the Voodoo Market? Let me know in the comments below and as always, safe travels!
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Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana
The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area….
Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghana’s economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.
Ten years. That’s the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and I’ll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.
The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.
Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.
Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.
View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato
HOW TO GET TO TAGBO FALLS
Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:
From Accra: It’s about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accra’s Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.
Through Golokwati: An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.
Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset
HIKING TO TAGBO FALLS & WHAT TO EXPECT
Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means it’s important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.
The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless it’s rainy season.
The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.
Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:
Here’s a breakdown of what to plan for:
Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where you’ll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife – the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. It’s tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someone’s livelihood and it’s best to leave the trail as you found it.
Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, you’ll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.
The Waterfall: Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. There’s a sign post stating “No Swimming” but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that don’t know how to swim from trying.
Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided. That said, it’s also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.
The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.
The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot
PACKING TIPS & TRICKS FOR TAGBO FALLS
Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.
Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.
Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.
Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. It’s recommended to pack in everything you think you’ll need.
Camera: The scenery is stunning, and you’ll want to capture the moment!
Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. It’s also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway — I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!
BEST TIME TO VISIT TAGBO FALLS
The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.
It’s hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls
PLACES TO STAY NEAR TAGBO FALLS
While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:
Wli Waterfalls Lodge: Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.
Afadjato Guesthouse: This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.
Tagbo Falls Lodge: This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philomina’s stove-top bread with garlic butter!
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Mount Afadjato: If you’re feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? It’s a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. There’s nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.
Wli Falls: Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. It’s the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.
Amedzofe Canopy Walk: About an hour’s drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghana’s highest elevated settlement. Here you’ll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. It’s definitely a spot worth checking out!
The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls
It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural landscapes.
Whether you’re a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.
So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!
In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!
Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!
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Exploring Mole National Park: Ghana’s Premier Wildlife Destination
Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve, offering a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. Located in the northern part of the country, it’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for an immersive safari experience...
Note: All information is up to date as October 2024 and is based around staying at the Mole Motel, however other accommodations exist within the park and are included in the post below.
Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve. Located in the northern part of the country, it offers a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. It’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for a unique safari experience.
After visiting Ghana for the past fifteen years and living here full-time for two, it’s a place that’s at the top of my list to not only bring visitors to but also myself to recharge and slow down!
An elephant is spotted on a morning game drive at Mole National Park in Ghana
HISTORY
Established in 1958 and officially designated as a national park in 1971, Mole National Park covers approximately 4,849 square kilometers. It is home to over 90 mammal species, including elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, and antelopes. Depending on the park ranger, you may even hear a tale about the elusive lions that some say still roam the expansive interior forests. The park also boasts nearly 300 bird species, making it a hotspot for birdwatchers.
One of the Mole’s unique features is its year-round accessibility and the chance to observe elephants up close, especially during the dry season when they frequent waterholes. As one of West Africa’s best-preserved wildlife reserves, Mole National Park continues to attract travelers looking for an authentic African safari experience in a less commercialized setting.
I’ve visited the park in January, April, August, and December and have never been disappointed with wildlife viewing. Warthogs roam the motel grounds and even elephants come to say ‘hello’ at times. Careful of the baboons, though. They’ve been known to steal your food at the restaurant and open your room if it’s not locked — speaking from experience.
An antelope is spotted in the morning glow at Mole National Park - Ghana, West Africa
HOW TO GET TO MOLE NATIONAL PARK
Mole National Park is located in northern Ghana, approximately 150 kilometers from Tamale, the capital of the Northern Region. There are several ways to get there:
By Air: The easiest way is to fly from Accra to Tamale Airport. From Tamale, a private vehicle can be arranged through your accommodations. Other options include a shared taxi or a bus to Mole, which takes around 3-4 hours. Note: things are spread apart in the northern areas of Ghana. The most efficient option is a private vehicle with driver that costs GHC 1,500 round trip.
By Road: For those who prefer road travel, buses operate from Accra, Kumasi, and other major cities to Larabanga, the nearest town to the park. From Larabanga, it’s a short ride to Mole National Park.
Don’t want to do the planning? Check out this 3-day tour to Northern Ghana!
ENTRANCE AND ACCOMMODATION
The beauty of Mole National Park lies in its affordable rates compared to other safari destinations in Africa. The entry fees are as follows:
Ghanaian citizens: GHS 10–15 (approx. USD 1–2)
Non-residents: GHS 40–60 (approx. USD 4–6)
*Discounts apply for children and students
Vehicles: Vehicles must also pay a nominal entrance fee into the park. This is the case even if a driver is dropping you off and will pick you in a few days. A Ghana registered car will cost GHC 5.00.
Accommodation: Mole offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets, all located within the park:
Mole Motel:
This budget-friendly option offers basic rooms and chalets with stunning views of the park’s watering holes, where elephants and other animals often gather. Rates start around USD 30–75 per night. A range of accommodations is available, from dorm rooms to chalets overlooking the watering hole.
Although basic and far from luxurious, most rooms include A/C and I can personally attest that they have made several improvements over the years. Plus, the whole point is to be outdoors and enjoy nature, right?
A restaurant and bar exists onsite and offers a wide variety of food, including pizzas, burgers, local foods, and even Chinese. If you’re looking for a truly northern Ghana experience, don't miss the guinea fowl. This tough meat is a Ghanaian favorite in that part of the country!
Mole Motel is a great place to bring a book, enjoy a Club beer, and relax by the pool while spotting elephants below. It’s one of my favorite places in Ghana to experience a sunset.
It’s not uncommon to see a family of warthogs grazing the grounds or elephants visiting the motel for breakfast! Sometimes the universe is in your favor and the wildlife comes to you.
Note: Although Mole Motel is listed as having wifi, the network is very unstable It works enough to send messages from your phone, depending on where you are, but I would not recommend coming here for remote work.
Zaina Lodge:
For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Zaina Lodge offers high-end accommodations with private tented chalets, an infinity pool, and premium services. Prices start at USD 300 per night and are inclusive of meals and game drives.
I haven’t stayed here because I prefer Mole Motel. Part of the charm of northern Ghana is the raw and remote wilderness, but I can see how a luxury place like this would be great for family vacations!
Camping:
For the more adventurous, camping facilities are available within the park near the ranger's station just outside of Mole Motel. You’ll need your own gear, and fees are approximately GHS 50 (USD 3) per night.
Mole Motel in Ghana as seen from the watering hole
WHAT TO EXPECT
Visiting Mole National Park provides an unforgettable safari experience without the crowds typical of other African reserves. The best times to visit are during the dry season (November to April), when animals congregate around water sources, making sightings easier.
Three of the most common activities in Mole National Park are walking safaris, game drives, and birdwatching:
Walking Safari:
Mole is one of the few national parks in Africa where you can go on a walking safari. Accompanied by armed rangers, you’ll explore the park on foot and get incredibly close to elephants, antelope, and more. Some level of fitness is required for this and it’s best to go early in the morning to avoid the heat.
If you don’t spot elephants on your trek, don’t worry. Rangers will happily take you back into the bush when they are spotted near the watering hole throughout the day (for an additional fee, of course).
The walking safaris are so cheap because all you pay for is a guide at an hourly rate (GHC 12 per hour for non-nationals). You read that right: a two-hour walking safari with elephants will cost you GHC 24, around USD 1.50. These occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm each day and no sign-up is required. Simply show up at the guard station!
Game Drives:
Open-top vehicle safaris offer a different perspective of the park, covering larger distances and giving you a better chance of spotting wildlife like warthogs, buffalo, and birds of prey.
There are day-time and night-time safari options, both with unique advantages. I’d recommend doing both as the drive in the dark gives unparalleled views of the stars and you’ll often see different animals such as bush babies, genet cats, owls, and more. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll see an elephant both during the day and night!
For small children and those with fitness concerns, driving is the more comfortable and accessible option.
Compared to a walking safari, the game drives are a bit more expensive as you must pay both the guide and vehicle fees. A safari-vehicle rental fee for both day and night is GHC 200 per hour and a guide fee for non-nationals at night is GHC 40 per hour while daytime is GHC 12 per hour.
This means a two-hour game drive during the day will cost you GHC 424, around USD 25, and at night GHC 480, or USD 30. If you make friends at motel, share a vehicle and lower the costs by splitting the vehicle fee between people.
Similar to walking safaris, game drives occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm daily, while night drives take place from 7pm-9pm.
Note: Book your night safari early at the guard station. These must be reserved in advance to ensure a vehicle is available.
Birdwatching:
Mole is a paradise for birdwatchers, with species such as the white-backed vulture, martial eagle, and saddle-billed stork commonly spotted. Birdwatching tours are also available for those keen to explore the avian diversity and can be enquired through Mole National Park’s website.
A Woodland Kingfisher is spotted with an elephant in the background - Mole National Park, Ghana
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Mole National Park is a gateway to several other exciting destinations in northern Ghana and many visitors pair it with a cultural trip to the surrounding areas. Don’t be surprised if you’re approached by a tour guide at the motel; this is common practice!
Larabanga Mosque:
Just a 20-minute drive from Mole, this ancient mosque is an architectural gem and holds significant religious and historical importance in Ghana. Visitors can take guided tours to learn about its fascinating history, and explore community projects in the village like the local school and a shea butter-making process.
Mognori Eco-Village:
Located just outside the park, this community-run initiative offers visitors the chance to experience traditional village life. You can take a canoe safari along the Mole River or enjoy a cultural drumming and dancing session with the locals.
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WHAT TO PACK
Make no mistake about it, although Mole National Park is a well-visited tourist destination, it’s still very remote and there are some important considerations when packing. Here’s what to bring:
Cash — Credit cards are accepted at the Mole Motel and Restaurant (network dependent), but it’s cash-only to pay the park rangers for the safaris. There’s also a small provisions and gift shop which is also cash-only. Stop at an ATM in Tamale and pull out enough money for your visit.
Medicine — You never know how your body will respond to different foods in remote areas. It’s best to pack basic medicines for stomach issues, allergies, and more. On one trip my friend was stung by a wasp, his eye swelled, and all we could do was “ice” it with the coldest water bottle we could find. There is a small health clinic in the nearby village within park borders, but don’t rely on this (speaking from experience)!
Warm Clothes — If visiting in December, it gets cold at night which means the morning and night game drives will require you to bring layers. It sounds odd given Ghana’s equatorial location, but trust me when I say the last thing you want is to be on top of a safari vehicle shivering for two hours.
Torch — When the sun goes down, it gets dark and the last thing you want to do is stumble upon a mother warthog grazing with her children. The grounds within the motel gates are small, but it’s still useful to have a torch to get back to your room after a few drinks at the bar to cap off a day of adventure.
Portable Charger - This comes in handy for multiple reasons. You won’t want your phone dying on a safari just when you track down an elephant. If you have the right model, it also serves as a hand warmer for those cool savanna mornings.
A hazy December sunset overlooking the watering hole at Mole National Park in Ghana
Mole National Park offers a unique and tranquil safari experience, perfect for travelers who want to immerse themselves in nature and observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Whether walking alongside elephants or watching a sunset over the savannah from the lodge, Mole promises a serene and unforgettable adventure. With its affordable prices, accessible location, and nearby cultural attractions, it’s an essential stop on any Ghana travel itinerary.
Ready to explore Ghana’s wild side? Start planning your Mole National Park adventure today and check out more posts about this incredible country below!
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Exploring the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana: Everything you need to know before you go
Tucked away in the Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting the sanctuary...
Note: All information below is updated as of September 2024
Tucked away in the remote Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.
HISTORY OF WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is a community-run conservation project, created to protect one of the last remaining populations of hippos in Ghana. Established in 1999 in partnership with the Calgary Zoo, the sanctuary spans a 40-kilometer stretch along the Black Volta River, which forms part of the border between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Not only does it protect hippos, but it also preserves the surrounding savannah, woodland, and riverine ecosystems, while promoting sustainable tourism that benefits local communities.
Black Volta River from above
HOW TO GET TO WECHIAU
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located about 85 kilometers from Wa, the capital of the Upper West Region. Visitors traveling from Accra or other major cities in Ghana can fly into Wa Airport, with a connecting domestic flight from Kotoka International Airport.
Passion Air is the only domestic airline to run the route and has only one daily flight except for Tuesdays and Saturdays. Tickets will cost you between USD 150-250.
It’s important to note that Ghana’s domestic flights aren’t immune to last-minute delays or cancelations but Passion Air is reputable for following through on rebooking and refunds.
Once in Wa, you can take a bus, shared taxi, or hire a private car to reach the sanctuary. The road from Wa to Wechiau is generally in good condition, but is not paved the entire way turning off the main road it will be dirt the rest of the way.
The drive is approximately 45min - 1 hour from Wa to the sanctuary reception. Once finished there, it’s another 45min drive through farming paths, heavy brush, and washed out “roads” to the riverbank.
If you find yourself on a whirlwind of a roadtrip through Northern Ghana like we were, then your best bet is to reach Wa from Tamale. This 4.5 hour drive is mostly on paved roads and takes you around the outer rim of Mole National Park, making it an easy trip to pair with the elephant safari and Larabanga Ancient Mosque if you have a few days.
A bloat of hippos spotted on the river
COST OF VISITING THE WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY
The entrance fee for the sanctuary is relatively affordable, and it directly supports the conservation efforts and local community. As of 2024, prices for non-residents hover around GHS 30–50 (approx. USD 3–5), while Ghanaian citizens may pay a reduced rate. Additionally, guided tours of the sanctuary are available, costing around GHS 100–150 (USD 10–15) per group (this includes guide and boat fee).
Ready to learn more about Ghana? Check out these posts
WHERE TO STAY IN WECHIAU
Most accommodation options are in Wa. Two to consider are:
Dellagio Hotel: A welcomed site after a long couple days of driving. This hotel is comfortable, safe, and secure with a large outdoor space to relax and a restaurant with quality food. Wifi and breakfast are included. After learning the Lakeview Hotel was fully booked, we ended up here and although a little more expensive it was a great stay! A standard room will cost you GHC 565, approximately USD 35.
Kamara Lakeview Hotel: This is a newer hotel in Wa and isn’t fully completed yet, but the staff was very accommodating in referring us to Dellagio. The rooms are clean and comfortable, especially for GHC 394 per night, around USD 25.
Both of these hotels are located about 1 hour drive from the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary.
At the sanctuary itself, a few options exist. For an authentic experience, consider staying overnight in a traditional homestay with a local family, which typically costs GHS 80–100 (USD 8–10) per night, or camp at the Hippo Hide and listen to the grunting at night as the animals make their way to land to feed. A basic guesthouse also exists near the riverside, with basic rooms starting at around GHC 100 per person, per night.
The banks of the Black Volta River, shot from Ghana and looking into Burkina Faso
WHAT TO EXPECT AT WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY
One of the sanctuary's main draws is the boat trip on the Black Volta River, where you can observe hippos in their natural habitat. Unlike typical wildlife safaris, this offers a more intimate and peaceful encounter with these majestic creatures. The best time to spot hippos is in the early morning or late afternoon, as they tend to retreat to the water to stay cool during the hottest part of the day. As on any safari experience, there’s never a guarantee to see the hippos. This is especially true during rainy season when the water level rises.
It’s important to note that there are multiple entry points onto the Black Volta, and the guides will take you to where they feel you have the highest chance of viewing hippos. Fortunately for us, the conservation team had just completed a census the day prior.
We drove my rusty Honda Pilot through small villages and dense brush before reaching the riverbank where a dugout canoe awaited. After donning our life vests we pushed away and were swiftly carried downstream by the strong current, immediately spotting a lone hippo in the distance.
After another few minutes of floating, we anchored to the tree branches as we flanked a bloat of hippos in the middle of the river. We had spoken to someone who had visited a week prior and after a few hours in a canoe they weren’t able to see any animals so needless to say this was unexpected. But there we were, fighting the current of the Black Volta, staring across the river into Burkina Faso, and viewing hippos in their natural habitat all the while one guide kept us steady and the other emptied water from the wooden floor.
It’s not always the most comfortable feeling being in canoe on a flooded river with one of the world’s most dangerous animals — we even had a rogue hippo leave the group and inch towards our spot, diving underwater and resurfacing closer than before — but our guides assured us that humans have never been attacked since the conservation area was established.
Besides hippo watching, the sanctuary is home to diverse bird species and other wildlife, including monitor lizards, crocodiles, and baboons. Nature walks with local guides allow you to explore the unique flora and fauna of the region, and for those interested in cultural experiences, visiting surrounding communities offers insight into the local way of life. The area is also known for its shea butter production.
Hippos spotted from canoe on the Black Volta River in Ghana
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
While in the Upper West Region, consider extending your adventure by visiting some of the nearby attractions:
Wa Naa’s Palace – Located in Wa, this historic palace is the seat of the Wa Naa, the traditional ruler of the region. It’s an excellent spot to learn about the local culture and history. Note that the palace is still in use today so be sure to check in at the appropriate entrance.
Gbelle Game Reserve – Roughly 60 kilometers from Wa, this lesser-known game reserve is home to elephants, antelope, and various bird species. With that said, we dug through research to find more on this place and ultimately decided to pass on our drive north. No one in the area could tell us reliable information and there was no indication of the reserve on our route. We’ll definitely be going back to do more investigation. Hopefully you have better luck!
Gwolu Bone Setting Clinic - A little over 3 hours away from Wechiau is the unofficial border town of Gwolu. Here, one of the most frequented and last remaining traditional bone setting clinics is situated. This unassuming building draws in people from all over the north and even a few kilometers away from neighboring Burkina Faso in search of traditional treatment for fractures.
An aerial view of a bloat of hippos
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is one of Ghana’s best-kept secrets, partially because it’s not the most accessible. If you’re willing to commit to the adventure, you’ll be spoiled by wildlife, culture, and stories to share. When planning a trip to Ghana, this is a “can’t miss” opportunity to discover a different side of the country’s natural wonders, and maybe even a quick trip across the river to unofficially reach Burkina Faso!
This is certainly and experience I won’t be forgetting anytime soon and is one of the most unique things I’ve been fortunate enough to do during my time in Ghana. It’s well worth the effort to reach there. So, what are you waiting for?
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Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe
Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer...
Please note: All info below is accurate as of September 2024
Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer.
Sounds like paradise, right? Here’s everything you need to know before a visit.
Canopy Walkway - Amedzofe, Ghana
HISTORY OF AMEDZOFE
Amedzofe, the highest habitable settlement in Ghana, sits about 750 meters above sea level. Historically, it served as a strategic location for the Ewe people, providing a natural defense against attacks. During colonial times, German missionaries arrived and their influence is still visible today in the architecture, such as the iconic German-built Presbyterian Church. The area’s rich history is intertwined with its cultural heritage, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in learning about Ghana’s past.
HOW TO GET TO AMEDZOFE
Amedzofe is approximately 2.5 to 3 hours by road from Accra, the capital of Ghana. Depending on traffic, it’s safer to plan for 4-5 hours of travel!
The best route is via the Accra-Ho road, which offers a smooth drive until you reach the scenic, winding roads that ascend the Amedzofe hills. Public transport is available, but if you're looking for convenience, renting a car or booking a private ride might be the best option.
The final stretch of the journey will treat you to breathtaking views of lush valleys, mountains, and distant villages.
If driving yourself, be aware that once entering Amedzofe the roads deteriorate. Mount Gemi is accessible, but many people choose to park elsewhere and take motobikes to the start of the canopy walkway, especially in rainy season.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN AMEDZOFE
Mount Gemi: One of the town’s main attractions is Mount Gemi, a prominent peak that offers panoramic views of the Volta Region. Atop the mountain stands a stone cross, erected by German missionaries in the early 20th century. A short hike to the summit (~20 minutes) will reward you with sweeping vistas of the surrounding landscape, including Lake Volta on a clear day.
At the top, you’ll find a cross that overlooks the village below. This is a sacred place to the community and it’s not uncommon to see people making pilgrimages to pray.
Cost: 55 GHS (USD 3.50) for foreigners
Note: Although Mt. Gemi is a hike, minimal fitness levels are required. Multiple routes of varying inclines exist, making this attraction suitable for everyone.
Amedzofe Canopy Walk: Amedzofe is home to a beautiful, lesser-known waterfall that cascades gently into a natural pool. The short but steep hike to the waterfall is an adventure in itself, as you pass through verdant forests and enjoy the peaceful sounds of nature. Don’t forget your camera and swimsuit—this spot is perfect for capturing the tranquil beauty of Ghana’s natural wonders and bathing below the falls.
If it’s between Kakum Canopy and Amedzofe, choose here. It’s far less trafficked and, as a result, the serenity of the surroundings are preserved.
Cost: 75 GHS (USD 4.75) for foreigners. Discounts applied for students.
Hours: The entrance building opens at 8am, 7 days a week. Get there early to have the entire place to yourself.
Note: There is a required level of fitness for this as the path to the canopy walk leads to a steep descent of 259 steps.
Explore Local Culture: Amedzofe is a culturally rich town, and visitors have the opportunity to interact with the friendly locals, learn about Ewe traditions, and explore the historical sites dotted around the town. The Presbyterian Church and old missionary quarters are great places to start, giving you a glimpse into the town's colonial past.
Birdwatching and Nature Walks: The area around Amedzofe is a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The lush environment is home to a variety of bird species, including the colorful and rare African grey parrot. Guided nature walks can be arranged for visitors interested in learning more about the local flora and fauna through the local tourism board.
Canopy Walkway and Oti Falls, Amedzofe
ACCOMMODATION: WHERE TO STAY IN AMEDZOFE
Accommodation is limited but affordable, with local guesthouses offering rooms for as little as GHS 100 (USD 8) per night. B
asic meals at local eateries will cost around GHS 15 to GHS 30 ($1 to USD 3), with more upscale options available in nearby towns like Ho.
Additionally, there are camping options, including equipment rentals, at Mt. Gemi.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Less than an hour from Amedzofe lies the village of Liati Wote. This quiet spot near the border with Togo is another tranquil gateway into nature. Here you can climb Ghana’s tallest free-standing mountain (Mount Afadjato), hike to and swim at Tagbo Falls, or enjoy an afternoon eating some of the best food in the country at Tagbo Falls Lodge as you relax in the courtyard. Another 45 minutes north leads to Wli, the home of West Africa’s tallest waterfall.
Other attractions:
Tafi Atome Monkey Village
Amedzofe, Ghana from above
Whether you’re hiking to the top of Mount Gemi, marveling at the cascading waterfall, or immersing yourself in local culture, Amedzofe is sure to leave a lasting impression. For those yearning for adventure and serenity, this charming town in the Volta Region promises to be a rewarding journey.
Pack your bags, hit the road, and leave the bustling streets of Accra, and the tourist trail, behind—Amedzofe awaits!
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