Sani Pass Self-Drive Adventure: How to Conquer South Africa’s Most Thrilling 4x4 Route
*Note: All informations is up to date as of April 2025
If you're like me, then when planning trips you'll find one thing, maybe a place to stay or a sight to see, latch onto it, and then build an entire itinerary around that.
On my one-month road trip around South Africa, the thing I latched onto the most was self-driving the Sani Pass, a notorious 9km stretch of tumultuous terrain connecting the country with the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
Why did I choose the Sani Pass experience? Truthfully, I'm not sure. It's just one of those things that when you know, you know.
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. But, in some false-confidence part of my brain, I told myself the spectacular views of the mountains would be well worth the effort (and by effort, I mean risk).
So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list.
Winding from the lush foothills of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa into the highlands of Lesotho, this is one of Africa's most iconic mountain passes — and a must-do for adventurers (don't forget to buckle up).
The infamous Sani Pass winds its way from Lesotho down into South Africa
WHAT IS THE SANI PASS AND WHY IS IT SPECIAL?
The Sani Pass is a high mountain road that links the borders of South Africa and Lesotho (the only border in Kwazulu-Natal), ascending over 1,000 meters in less than 10 kilometers.
Completed in 1950, the road starts at 1544m in elevation on the South African side and rises to 2876m on the Lesotho border, earning it’s name as the “Roof of Africa”. Previously utilized for pack animals, it is now one of the most challenging and dramatic 4x4 drives in Southern Africa and attracts off-road enthusiasts, photographers, and curious travelers alike (I'm the latter).
If you can brave the occasionally maintained loose gravel track, test your nerves on Devil's Corner and Suicide Bend, and survive being flanked by a steep drop-off for the entirety of the journey, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains, and a trip to the Highest Pub in Africa.
The beauty in this particular journey is in the remoteness. Nothing comes close to the feeling of standing on top of the pass, peering over the edge to see the winding road below. Meanwhile everything is eerily silent except for the wind whipping about, reminding you of just how forceful Mother Nature can be.
Ready to leap, or in this case slowly and arduously drive? Let's get into the details.
Looking for more South African adventures?
Check out this post about whale watching in Hermanus. You won’t be disappointed!
HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS?
Make no mistake — driving the Sani Pass is not for the faint of heart.
With tight turns and oncoming traffic, it's important to have some prior driving experience not just for your safety but for everyone's. Remember, you won't be the only one on the road.
Despite re-graveling and flattening every month, the road is steep, rough, and unpredictable, with hairpin bends testing even experienced drivers. This, combined with the ever-changing weather, it’s best to have an alternative plan incase you’re forced to forego the drive that day.
It's not uncommon for drivers to embark on the Sani Pass before turning around and bailing out but, if you're committed to it, the drive requires 1.5-2 hours of constant concentration.
This is long enough to go slow, pull over for breaks, and pictures, or to give yourself a little pep talk, and still make it to the top safely.
Although I did a solo self-drive Sani Pass experience, it's safest to go with at least one other person to help you pick your lines of clearance. Some parts of the road can be a challenge and one wrong move can send you closer to the steep drop-offs.
The Sani Pass is made up of steep declines, narrow paths, and abrupt drop-offs
Sani Pass Requirements
First things, first, is a 4x4 required to drive the Sani Pass? Yes. It’s mandatory and is actively enforced at the South African border.
Even if you do have a 4x4, the border patrol agents have been known to turn away vehicles they deem not fit for the current conditions.
In addition, you'll need to meet the following requirements:
Passport. No visa is required for Lesotho if visiting for 14 days or less.
Proof of Ownership of Vehicle. It’s standard practice to provide registration documentation when entering and exiting any country.
Letter of Authority. Rental cars must obtain a letter of authority from the agency that gives the driver permission to cross specific borders. This comes at an additional cost to the rental rate, usually around R650, about USD 35.
Spare Tire. It's not necessarily a requirement that's checked, but it is safest to have one. The road is often littered with rocks and boulders, and if I have a choice between a flat tire and veering towards the ledge, I'm choosing the tire every time.
Finally, it's important to note that both the South African and Lesotho borders open their gates between 6 am and 6 pm. You must clear both by that time, otherwise, you'll be stuck.
This means that for a round-trip adventure, assuming a slow 2-hour journey, plan to start from South Africa no later than 12 pm and be checked in at Lesotho immigration by 2 pm.
Spend an hour or so snapping pictures and calming your nerves at the Sani Mountain Lodge, maybe purchase a quick souvenir from one of the small shops at the top of the pass, and exit Lesotho no later than 4 pm.
When to Drive the Sani Pass
Best time: The best time to drive the Sani Pass is during the dry months. May to September offer clear skies and stable conditions.
Maybe it's not as photogenic (there will be less greenery on the pass), but it's still an unbelievable experience.
Avoid: The worst time to attempt to drive is during the rainy summer months (November–March). Storms move through the mountains every afternoon, often striking at unpredictable times.
With such a steep gradient, you can imagine how prone the road is to landslides and flooding.
Winter note: Winter on the Sani Pass is from June to August and is generally drier, making for an optimal experience. With that said, it's not uncommon for snow and ice to coat the road, making it slippery and un-passable.
It’s ideal to plan for winter months and when no recent storms have hit (easier said than done, I know).
A car carefully drives the perilous Sani Pass
Best Sani Pass Tours (2025)
Still interested, but maybe you're questioning your ability (or sanity) at this point? Don't worry, there are plenty of daily tours leaving from Underberg on the South African side.
Most depart at 9 am and include lunch at the Sani Pass Lodge and a visit to a Basotho Village in Lesotho before descending the Sani Pass and back into South Africa.
Total time is typically between 6 and 7 hours.
Here are a few reliable options to check out (all departing from Underberg):
Private Sani Pass Classic Tour (Top Rated)
FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE: WHAT IT’S LIKE TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS
Here's where I need to put a disclaimer, don't do what I did. But, before you pass judgment, let me explain.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, driving the Sani Pass was imprinted into my brain while planning my road trip around South Africa. I made sure to book a 4x4 in Johannesburg, thinking I would be driving up the pass, across Lesotho, and back into South Africa somewhere else.
Spoiler alert: that plan fell apart very quickly.
When I arrived at the rental desk, they told me no 4x4s were available and I would have to wait multiple hours if there was any chance of locating one, but it wasn't guaranteed.
Meanwhile, time is ticking away to check in at the Black Rhino Game Lodge and, at some point, the gates will close and I'll be out of luck.
Once the rental agency sent me to the garage to pick up a BMW, I immediately said no, trying not to laugh at them knowing what I had planned. Their second try yielded a Rav4 that was, at least, AWD and had a downhill lock for the breaks.
At that point a decision needed to be taken. Do I put my foot down and demand a 4x4, wait it out and hope for the best? Or do I stay on track and adjust elsewhere?
Ultimately, I decided to take the Rav4 and reverse my itinerary. Instead of ascending Sani Pass from the South African side, I would enter Lesotho and Caledonspoort and descend.
An overnight stay in Mokhotlong, Lesotho before attempting the Sani Pass
There were a couple of reasons for this. For starters, it's much easier to go down than up. I can see the track better, make safer decisions, and gravity is in my favor when trying to get over rough terrain. Secondly, I took a gamble that if Lesotho border patrol wouldn't check the vehicle's 4x4 capacity. By the time I got back down to South Africa what could they do? I felt I had a better chance of still driving the Sani Pass if I planned it like this.
Again, get a 4x4. The only reason this crazy plan worked, was because I lucked out with a beautiful day and dry conditions.
So, I crossed my fingers, drove across Lesotho, and reached the top of Sani Pass after staying the night in Mokhotlong.
From the warm comforts of the Sani Mountain Lodge, I watched the morning traffic slowly crawl to the top, carefully maneuvering over every rock and boulder, fighting the wind to stay stable.
Why was I doing this again? Is this really a good idea? But, at that point, the only other option was to drive straight back across Lesotho.
After striking a full-on athletic-dad stance to avoid the whipping wind at the overview to snap a few pictures and once the Highest Pub in Africa reached capacity with adrenaline-filled tourists, it was clear that my time was now or never.
I stumbled over to border patrol while fighting the wind and, before I could say anything, the agent looked at my passport, mumbled something under his breath, and handed back my booklet with an exit AND entry stamp, failing to see I had entered Lesotho elsewhere. Instead, he assumed I had just failed to get my passport stamped once at the top, probably a common theme as people are filled with the cathartic feeling of escaping death on Sani Pass.
Either way, my passport now has two entry stamps into Lesotho and only one exit, so I guess it's a good thing it's not an electronic system and no one has bothered to check!
As the car slowly rolled under the "Thank you for visiting Lesotho" sign, that was the moment I realized there was no turning back and I had to lock in.
The hairpin turns and steep decline came quick. The phrase 'slow and steady wins the race' has never been so true. So much so that I let tourist vans pass me on their way back down.
As you'll read later in this post, patience and humility are two keys to success when driving the Sani Pass. Let everyone else go at their pace! In hindsight, one of the best decisions I made was to arrive at Sani Mountain Lodge in the morning and wait for those ascending to finish.
Looking back up towards the Sani Pass, from the South African Side
I can't imagine having to descend with traffic on the way up. Instead, I ran into maybe one car on their way to Lesotho. This allowed me to remain fully focused on white-knuckling the steering wheel and methodically trying to plot every minor adjustment to the tire angles while also not killing the undercarriage of the car because, as a reminder, a Rav4 is generally not equipped for this South African adventure.
After about an hour of riding the gas pedal, the slope leveled out and the anticipation of being on South African soil and paved roads again became real. It wasn't long before the little roadside "Welcome to South Africa" sign came into view and I was greeted by the smiling border patrol.
"How are you," they asked.
"Better now," I replied, laughing as I stomped on the pavement.
The gentleman checked some documents, looked in my passport, and glanced up at me before stamping and returning it. Surely he would be curious about why I have two entry stamps into Lesotho, right?
Instead, as he handed my passport back, he asked "This is a 4x4, right?"
Panic set in. I mumbled some deflection about how it "got the job done".
He smiled unconvincingly, and I drove off into the literal sunset, parking farther down the road to look back on what I had just accomplished.
Long story short, yes the Sani Pass is self-drivable, even for solo travelers like me, but there are some important factors to consider.
It's one hell of an adventure and one that I won't soon forget!
WHAT TO DO AT THE TOP OF THE SANI PASS
The Drakensberg Mountains are an incredible playground in the wild, full of natural beauty and trails and the Sani Pass drops visitors at the perfect starting point. Whether you plan a round-trip excursion or want to see more of Lesotho, here's what you can do:
1. Grab a Drink at the Sani Mountain Lodge
Unless you're on a tour, be careful with what "drink" you choose. Remember, at 2,874 meters above sea level, alcohol will have an amplified effect and you do not want to be compromised on your descent down the Sani Pass.
Grab a cappuccino and a warm ham and cheese toastie and marvel out the window at your latest accomplishment as you watch cars struggle up the pass. This is also the optimal spot for some photos from the top of the pass as it looks out across the valley below and surrounding Drakensberg Mountains.
2. Explore Lesotho's Highlands
Consider continuing into Lesotho's remote interior for a few days before heading back down the Sani Pass to South Africa, or do what I did in reverse and exit Lesotho via Caledonspoort to see both Lesotho's stunning terrain and spend some time in Clarens, SA.
If you choose to traverse the Moutain Kingdom during the winter months, be sure to stop over at AfriSki and carve some turns on the African continent!
3. Overnight Stay
Wanting to stay overnight at the top of the pass? Here are some options:
Sani Mountain Escape ($-$$)- From 1 May 2025 to 31 August 2025, all accommodation at Sani Mountain Escape will be closed for renovation.
The Highest Pub in Africa remains open, but as such a high-demand destination, it now requires a R100 entrance fee and can often reach capacity at peak hours (get there early).
Sani Lodge and Cottages ($$-$$$) - Nestled at the base of the Sani Pass in South Africa, they have a range of accommodation available ranging from campsites to Rondavels (a traditional, circular hut).
The lodge also partners with Drakensburg Adventures, a Fair Trade Tourism company, making it easy to get in and out of Lesotho.
Sani Stone Lodge ($-$$) - For a more authentic Basotho experience, book a stay at Sani Stone Lodge. A bed in a mixed dorm costs R250, around USD 15, while a twin room with ensuite will run R1,100, or USD 60.
Take a break at the Highest Pub in Africa before heading down the Sani Pass
TOP TIPS FOR SELF-DRIVING THE SANI PASS
Ready for your adventure?
This is truly one of the most beautiful drives in the world, but it's also one of the most challenging so it's important to come prepared. Here are some of my top tips for self-driving the Sani Pass:
Stick to the 4x4 Rule: Don't attempt this in a regular vehicle. Seriously. Learn from the error of my ways.
What Goes Up, Must Come Down: When I was unable to secure the 4x4 I had promised, I figured what goes up, must come down, right? In my experience, it was far easier to maneuver a Rav4 on the descent than the ascent, so I changed my route.
Consider which direction you want to drive and what makes most sense with your experience and expertise.
Less Congestion Equals Easier Maneuvering: Morning drives offer better visibility and fewer vehicles, but it's also best to be aware of the tours.
I spent my morning sipping cappuccinos at the Highest Pub in Africa, watching the tour convoys haul their customers up and, when the restaurant became congested, that was my time to take off and descend the pass with far less ascending traffic.
How Low Can You Go: Use low gear, especially on the descent. I cannot express this enough. You will be driving slower than you walk.
Thankfully, the Rav4 had downhill locks to keep sustained pressure on the breaks and limit the speed.
Pack Essentials: This can mean different things for everyone, but in general consider water, snacks, warm clothing, a spare tire, and a sense of adventure.
Here are some of the things I brought along:
Hand warmer/power bank - Because you never know when you’ll need that little extra bit of warmth (or a flashlight, but hopefully just the heat).
Cotopaxi Fuego Down Vest - A great choice for layering. All the warmth, with more freedom! Add a windbreaker on top and you’re ready to brave the Sani Pass.
Mini Tripod - You won’t want to miss capturing the views, but at the same time it’s crucial to stay focused on the road. Set the tripod up in the car and rest assured you’ll collect some great images and videos.
First Aid Kit - It sounds unnecessary until it’s not and I didn’t want to risk the car rental not providing one, so I brought along my mini first aid kit.
Pocket Knife - Again, you never know when it comes to the Sani Pass. Better to be prepared for the unexpected.
Small shops line the roads at the top of the Sani Pass
Fill the Tank: Petrol is not readily available on either side of the border, so plan to fill up in Underburg (if coming from South Africa) or Mokhotlong (if arriving from Lesotho).
Don't Feel Pressured: Yes, self-driving the Sani Pass is one of the most difficult 4x4 road-trips in South Africa, if not the southern part of the continent. It is still a route used by local transportation and many locals drive the road for leisure.
Don't panic if someone is passing you or ascends in 45 minutes. That's fine. Be patient, stick to what you're comfortable with, and trust the process.
Time doesn't matter, but remaining in one piece to share your adventure does!
Carry Cash: The Sani Mountain Escape is now cashless and, oddly enough, even one or two of the small souvenir shops at the top of the road take cards, but it's best to still carry some cash.
The shop I wanted something from the most, of course, didn't take card and I was left with the memory (not a bad consolation prize, though).
South Africa SIM: Be sure to use your South Africa SIM card in case of emergency.
If you haven't yet, try the Airalo e-sims. I've quickly grown to love the ease of flipping between SIM cards without fumbling through my bag to find something to open the slot with.
In the event of an emergency, the South African Border number is +27 033 202 1169.
Stamp the passport: South Africa has a car park to pull into and it's very clear where you need to go. Lesotho, at the top of the Sani Pass, is a bit more relaxed.
Don't forget to walk over to the immigration window on both entry and exit. If you're doing a one-way self-drive, like me, be sure to tell them to avoid a wrongful assumption that you forgot to stamp into the country.
However it does make for a fun story, how I have two passport stamps into Lesotho and only one stamp out!
Sharing is caring! Pin this post for later.
Can you feel the excitement building?
Then it's probably time to book that trip to South Africa and experience the infamous Sani Pass in person!
Grab a drink at the Highest Pub in Africa, marvel at the surrounding geography, swap stories with other adventurers, and have the (literal) ride of a lifetime.
The Sani Pass awaits.
Anything I've missed? Have you visited before? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe & happy travels!
