Sani Pass Self-Drive Adventure: How to Conquer South Africa’s Most Thrilling 4x4 Route
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list…
*Note: All informations is up to date as of April 2025
If you're like me, then when planning trips you'll find one thing, maybe a place to stay or a sight to see, latch onto it, and then build an entire itinerary around that.
On my one-month road trip around South Africa, the thing I latched onto the most was self-driving the Sani Pass, a notorious 9km stretch of tumultuous terrain connecting the country with the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
Why did I choose the Sani Pass experience? Truthfully, I'm not sure. It's just one of those things that when you know, you know.
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. But, in some false-confidence part of my brain, I told myself the spectacular views of the mountains would be well worth the effort (and by effort, I mean risk).
So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list.
Winding from the lush foothills of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa into the highlands of Lesotho, this is one of Africa's most iconic mountain passes — and a must-do for adventurers (don't forget to buckle up).
The infamous Sani Pass winds its way from Lesotho down into South Africa
WHAT IS THE SANI PASS AND WHY IS IT SPECIAL?
The Sani Pass is a high mountain road that links the borders of South Africa and Lesotho (the only border in Kwazulu-Natal), ascending over 1,000 meters in less than 10 kilometers.
Completed in 1950, the road starts at 1544m in elevation on the South African side and rises to 2876m on the Lesotho border, earning it’s name as the “Roof of Africa”. Previously utilized for pack animals, it is now one of the most challenging and dramatic 4x4 drives in Southern Africa and attracts off-road enthusiasts, photographers, and curious travelers alike (I'm the latter).
If you can brave the occasionally maintained loose gravel track, test your nerves on Devil's Corner and Suicide Bend, and survive being flanked by a steep drop-off for the entirety of the journey, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains, and a trip to the Highest Pub in Africa.
The beauty in this particular journey is in the remoteness. Nothing comes close to the feeling of standing on top of the pass, peering over the edge to see the winding road below. Meanwhile everything is eerily silent except for the wind whipping about, reminding you of just how forceful Mother Nature can be.
Ready to leap, or in this case slowly and arduously drive? Let's get into the details.
Looking for more South African adventures?
Check out this post about whale watching in Hermanus. You won’t be disappointed!
HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS?
Make no mistake — driving the Sani Pass is not for the faint of heart.
With tight turns and oncoming traffic, it's important to have some prior driving experience not just for your safety but for everyone's. Remember, you won't be the only one on the road.
Despite re-graveling and flattening every month, the road is steep, rough, and unpredictable, with hairpin bends testing even experienced drivers. This, combined with the ever-changing weather, it’s best to have an alternative plan incase you’re forced to forego the drive that day.
It's not uncommon for drivers to embark on the Sani Pass before turning around and bailing out but, if you're committed to it, the drive requires 1.5-2 hours of constant concentration.
This is long enough to go slow, pull over for breaks, and pictures, or to give yourself a little pep talk, and still make it to the top safely.
Although I did a solo self-drive Sani Pass experience, it's safest to go with at least one other person to help you pick your lines of clearance. Some parts of the road can be a challenge and one wrong move can send you closer to the steep drop-offs.
The Sani Pass is made up of steep declines, narrow paths, and abrupt drop-offs
Sani Pass Requirements
First things, first, is a 4x4 required to drive the Sani Pass? Yes. It’s mandatory and is actively enforced at the South African border.
Even if you do have a 4x4, the border patrol agents have been known to turn away vehicles they deem not fit for the current conditions.
In addition, you'll need to meet the following requirements:
Passport. No visa is required for Lesotho if visiting for 14 days or less.
Proof of Ownership of Vehicle. It’s standard practice to provide registration documentation when entering and exiting any country.
Letter of Authority. Rental cars must obtain a letter of authority from the agency that gives the driver permission to cross specific borders. This comes at an additional cost to the rental rate, usually around R650, about USD 35.
Spare Tire. It's not necessarily a requirement that's checked, but it is safest to have one. The road is often littered with rocks and boulders, and if I have a choice between a flat tire and veering towards the ledge, I'm choosing the tire every time.
Finally, it's important to note that both the South African and Lesotho borders open their gates between 6 am and 6 pm. You must clear both by that time, otherwise, you'll be stuck.
This means that for a round-trip adventure, assuming a slow 2-hour journey, plan to start from South Africa no later than 12 pm and be checked in at Lesotho immigration by 2 pm.
Spend an hour or so snapping pictures and calming your nerves at the Sani Mountain Lodge, maybe purchase a quick souvenir from one of the small shops at the top of the pass, and exit Lesotho no later than 4 pm.
When to Drive the Sani Pass
Best time: The best time to drive the Sani Pass is during the dry months. May to September offer clear skies and stable conditions.
Maybe it's not as photogenic (there will be less greenery on the pass), but it's still an unbelievable experience.
Avoid: The worst time to attempt to drive is during the rainy summer months (November–March). Storms move through the mountains every afternoon, often striking at unpredictable times.
With such a steep gradient, you can imagine how prone the road is to landslides and flooding.
Winter note: Winter on the Sani Pass is from June to August and is generally drier, making for an optimal experience. With that said, it's not uncommon for snow and ice to coat the road, making it slippery and un-passable.
It’s ideal to plan for winter months and when no recent storms have hit (easier said than done, I know).
A car carefully drives the perilous Sani Pass
Best Sani Pass Tours (2025)
Still interested, but maybe you're questioning your ability (or sanity) at this point? Don't worry, there are plenty of daily tours leaving from Underberg on the South African side.
Most depart at 9 am and include lunch at the Sani Pass Lodge and a visit to a Basotho Village in Lesotho before descending the Sani Pass and back into South Africa.
Total time is typically between 6 and 7 hours.
Here are a few reliable options to check out (all departing from Underberg):
Private Sani Pass Classic Tour (Top Rated)
FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE: WHAT IT’S LIKE TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS
Here's where I need to put a disclaimer, don't do what I did. But, before you pass judgment, let me explain.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, driving the Sani Pass was imprinted into my brain while planning my road trip around South Africa. I made sure to book a 4x4 in Johannesburg, thinking I would be driving up the pass, across Lesotho, and back into South Africa somewhere else.
Spoiler alert: that plan fell apart very quickly.
When I arrived at the rental desk, they told me no 4x4s were available and I would have to wait multiple hours if there was any chance of locating one, but it wasn't guaranteed.
Meanwhile, time is ticking away to check in at the Black Rhino Game Lodge and, at some point, the gates will close and I'll be out of luck.
Once the rental agency sent me to the garage to pick up a BMW, I immediately said no, trying not to laugh at them knowing what I had planned. Their second try yielded a Rav4 that was, at least, AWD and had a downhill lock for the breaks.
At that point a decision needed to be taken. Do I put my foot down and demand a 4x4, wait it out and hope for the best? Or do I stay on track and adjust elsewhere?
Ultimately, I decided to take the Rav4 and reverse my itinerary. Instead of ascending Sani Pass from the South African side, I would enter Lesotho and Caledonspoort and descend.
An overnight stay in Mokhotlong, Lesotho before attempting the Sani Pass
There were a couple of reasons for this. For starters, it's much easier to go down than up. I can see the track better, make safer decisions, and gravity is in my favor when trying to get over rough terrain. Secondly, I took a gamble that if Lesotho border patrol wouldn't check the vehicle's 4x4 capacity. By the time I got back down to South Africa what could they do? I felt I had a better chance of still driving the Sani Pass if I planned it like this.
Again, get a 4x4. The only reason this crazy plan worked, was because I lucked out with a beautiful day and dry conditions.
So, I crossed my fingers, drove across Lesotho, and reached the top of Sani Pass after staying the night in Mokhotlong.
From the warm comforts of the Sani Mountain Lodge, I watched the morning traffic slowly crawl to the top, carefully maneuvering over every rock and boulder, fighting the wind to stay stable.
Why was I doing this again? Is this really a good idea? But, at that point, the only other option was to drive straight back across Lesotho.
After striking a full-on athletic-dad stance to avoid the whipping wind at the overview to snap a few pictures and once the Highest Pub in Africa reached capacity with adrenaline-filled tourists, it was clear that my time was now or never.
I stumbled over to border patrol while fighting the wind and, before I could say anything, the agent looked at my passport, mumbled something under his breath, and handed back my booklet with an exit AND entry stamp, failing to see I had entered Lesotho elsewhere. Instead, he assumed I had just failed to get my passport stamped once at the top, probably a common theme as people are filled with the cathartic feeling of escaping death on Sani Pass.
Either way, my passport now has two entry stamps into Lesotho and only one exit, so I guess it's a good thing it's not an electronic system and no one has bothered to check!
As the car slowly rolled under the "Thank you for visiting Lesotho" sign, that was the moment I realized there was no turning back and I had to lock in.
The hairpin turns and steep decline came quick. The phrase 'slow and steady wins the race' has never been so true. So much so that I let tourist vans pass me on their way back down.
As you'll read later in this post, patience and humility are two keys to success when driving the Sani Pass. Let everyone else go at their pace! In hindsight, one of the best decisions I made was to arrive at Sani Mountain Lodge in the morning and wait for those ascending to finish.
Looking back up towards the Sani Pass, from the South African Side
I can't imagine having to descend with traffic on the way up. Instead, I ran into maybe one car on their way to Lesotho. This allowed me to remain fully focused on white-knuckling the steering wheel and methodically trying to plot every minor adjustment to the tire angles while also not killing the undercarriage of the car because, as a reminder, a Rav4 is generally not equipped for this South African adventure.
After about an hour of riding the gas pedal, the slope leveled out and the anticipation of being on South African soil and paved roads again became real. It wasn't long before the little roadside "Welcome to South Africa" sign came into view and I was greeted by the smiling border patrol.
"How are you," they asked.
"Better now," I replied, laughing as I stomped on the pavement.
The gentleman checked some documents, looked in my passport, and glanced up at me before stamping and returning it. Surely he would be curious about why I have two entry stamps into Lesotho, right?
Instead, as he handed my passport back, he asked "This is a 4x4, right?"
Panic set in. I mumbled some deflection about how it "got the job done".
He smiled unconvincingly, and I drove off into the literal sunset, parking farther down the road to look back on what I had just accomplished.
Long story short, yes the Sani Pass is self-drivable, even for solo travelers like me, but there are some important factors to consider.
It's one hell of an adventure and one that I won't soon forget!
WHAT TO DO AT THE TOP OF THE SANI PASS
The Drakensberg Mountains are an incredible playground in the wild, full of natural beauty and trails and the Sani Pass drops visitors at the perfect starting point. Whether you plan a round-trip excursion or want to see more of Lesotho, here's what you can do:
1. Grab a Drink at the Sani Mountain Lodge
Unless you're on a tour, be careful with what "drink" you choose. Remember, at 2,874 meters above sea level, alcohol will have an amplified effect and you do not want to be compromised on your descent down the Sani Pass.
Grab a cappuccino and a warm ham and cheese toastie and marvel out the window at your latest accomplishment as you watch cars struggle up the pass. This is also the optimal spot for some photos from the top of the pass as it looks out across the valley below and surrounding Drakensberg Mountains.
2. Explore Lesotho's Highlands
Consider continuing into Lesotho's remote interior for a few days before heading back down the Sani Pass to South Africa, or do what I did in reverse and exit Lesotho via Caledonspoort to see both Lesotho's stunning terrain and spend some time in Clarens, SA.
If you choose to traverse the Moutain Kingdom during the winter months, be sure to stop over at AfriSki and carve some turns on the African continent!
3. Overnight Stay
Wanting to stay overnight at the top of the pass? Here are some options:
Sani Mountain Escape ($-$$)- From 1 May 2025 to 31 August 2025, all accommodation at Sani Mountain Escape will be closed for renovation.
The Highest Pub in Africa remains open, but as such a high-demand destination, it now requires a R100 entrance fee and can often reach capacity at peak hours (get there early).
Sani Lodge and Cottages ($$-$$$) - Nestled at the base of the Sani Pass in South Africa, they have a range of accommodation available ranging from campsites to Rondavels (a traditional, circular hut).
The lodge also partners with Drakensburg Adventures, a Fair Trade Tourism company, making it easy to get in and out of Lesotho.
Sani Stone Lodge ($-$$) - For a more authentic Basotho experience, book a stay at Sani Stone Lodge. A bed in a mixed dorm costs R250, around USD 15, while a twin room with ensuite will run R1,100, or USD 60.
Take a break at the Highest Pub in Africa before heading down the Sani Pass
TOP TIPS FOR SELF-DRIVING THE SANI PASS
Ready for your adventure?
This is truly one of the most beautiful drives in the world, but it's also one of the most challenging so it's important to come prepared. Here are some of my top tips for self-driving the Sani Pass:
Stick to the 4x4 Rule: Don't attempt this in a regular vehicle. Seriously. Learn from the error of my ways.
What Goes Up, Must Come Down: When I was unable to secure the 4x4 I had promised, I figured what goes up, must come down, right? In my experience, it was far easier to maneuver a Rav4 on the descent than the ascent, so I changed my route.
Consider which direction you want to drive and what makes most sense with your experience and expertise.
Less Congestion Equals Easier Maneuvering: Morning drives offer better visibility and fewer vehicles, but it's also best to be aware of the tours.
I spent my morning sipping cappuccinos at the Highest Pub in Africa, watching the tour convoys haul their customers up and, when the restaurant became congested, that was my time to take off and descend the pass with far less ascending traffic.
How Low Can You Go: Use low gear, especially on the descent. I cannot express this enough. You will be driving slower than you walk.
Thankfully, the Rav4 had downhill locks to keep sustained pressure on the breaks and limit the speed.
Pack Essentials: This can mean different things for everyone, but in general consider water, snacks, warm clothing, a spare tire, and a sense of adventure.
Here are some of the things I brought along:
Hand warmer/power bank - Because you never know when you’ll need that little extra bit of warmth (or a flashlight, but hopefully just the heat).
Cotopaxi Fuego Down Vest - A great choice for layering. All the warmth, with more freedom! Add a windbreaker on top and you’re ready to brave the Sani Pass.
Mini Tripod - You won’t want to miss capturing the views, but at the same time it’s crucial to stay focused on the road. Set the tripod up in the car and rest assured you’ll collect some great images and videos.
First Aid Kit - It sounds unnecessary until it’s not and I didn’t want to risk the car rental not providing one, so I brought along my mini first aid kit.
Pocket Knife - Again, you never know when it comes to the Sani Pass. Better to be prepared for the unexpected.
Small shops line the roads at the top of the Sani Pass
Fill the Tank: Petrol is not readily available on either side of the border, so plan to fill up in Underburg (if coming from South Africa) or Mokhotlong (if arriving from Lesotho).
Don't Feel Pressured: Yes, self-driving the Sani Pass is one of the most difficult 4x4 road-trips in South Africa, if not the southern part of the continent. It is still a route used by local transportation and many locals drive the road for leisure.
Don't panic if someone is passing you or ascends in 45 minutes. That's fine. Be patient, stick to what you're comfortable with, and trust the process.
Time doesn't matter, but remaining in one piece to share your adventure does!
Carry Cash: The Sani Mountain Escape is now cashless and, oddly enough, even one or two of the small souvenir shops at the top of the road take cards, but it's best to still carry some cash.
The shop I wanted something from the most, of course, didn't take card and I was left with the memory (not a bad consolation prize, though).
South Africa SIM: Be sure to use your South Africa SIM card in case of emergency.
If you haven't yet, try the Airalo e-sims. I've quickly grown to love the ease of flipping between SIM cards without fumbling through my bag to find something to open the slot with.
In the event of an emergency, the South African Border number is +27 033 202 1169.
Stamp the passport: South Africa has a car park to pull into and it's very clear where you need to go. Lesotho, at the top of the Sani Pass, is a bit more relaxed.
Don't forget to walk over to the immigration window on both entry and exit. If you're doing a one-way self-drive, like me, be sure to tell them to avoid a wrongful assumption that you forgot to stamp into the country.
However it does make for a fun story, how I have two passport stamps into Lesotho and only one stamp out!
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Can you feel the excitement building?
Then it's probably time to book that trip to South Africa and experience the infamous Sani Pass in person!
Grab a drink at the Highest Pub in Africa, marvel at the surrounding geography, swap stories with other adventurers, and have the (literal) ride of a lifetime.
The Sani Pass awaits.
Anything I've missed? Have you visited before? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe & happy travels!
Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa: Top Tips for an Unbeatable Experience
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life. Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” as it’s sometimes referred to….
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life.
Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” as it’s sometimes referred to.
What once was a peaceful village, so much so that doctors used to prescribe visits for recovering tuberculosis patients, now attracts between 75,000 and 130,000 visitors every September/October to celebrate the return of the Southern Right Whales to the harbor.
Less than a two-hour drive from Cape Town, the question isn’t ‘why go’; rather, it’s ‘why not? ' After a month of solo travel around South Africa, Hermanus remains at the top of my list of places to return!
From majestic marine life to stunning coastal views, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your whale-watching trip in Hermanus.
The town of Hermanus, South Africa as seen from the Hermanus Cliff Walk
HISTORY OF HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA
Hermanus, a small coastal town in the Western Cape of South Africa, has long been a haven for southern right whales. These gentle giants migrate to the warm waters of the South African coastline between June and November to mate and calve, en route to warmer Mozambican waters.
The whales get their namesake, “Right”, simply by being labeled as the “right” whale to kill, nearly to the brink of extinction in the early 20th century. Still, these majestic creatures have been protected in South Africa since 1935 and have gradually increased their population.
Other species spotted in Walker’s Bay include Orcas, Humpback Whales, and Byrde’s Whales.
Whale watching originally began in Hermanus as a land-based activity, thanks to the incredible visibility from the town’s cliffs. In fact, the 12km cliff walk is still an easy (and free) way to spot the whales from the shore.
So much so, in 1992 Hermanus employed an official “Whale Crier” to sound a kelp horn and alert tourists to sightings. Yes, this still exists today, and the Hermanus Whale Crier is the only one of its kind in the world!
Fun fact: At one point, Hermanus and the town Whale Crier was so popular, that he was known as the second most photographed South African… behind Nelson Mandela.
Today, companies like Southern Right Charters offer eco-friendly boat tours that bring you closer to these magnificent creatures while respecting their natural habitat.
Sunrise over Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
HOW TO GET TO HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA
The beauty in Hermanus is how conveniently located it is, about 120 km (75 miles) from Cape Town, making it an easy weekend getaway. Of course, a day trip works as well but when you arrive and feel the energy, you won’t want to leave.
By Car: Drive along the scenic R43 route, which takes approximately 1.5–2 hours from Cape Town.
I rented a car, picking up and dropping off at Cape Town International Airport. A two-day rental from Alamo cost less than USD 90 and allowed me to explore more along the way. It was completely worth it.
By Shuttle or Tour: Many tour operators offer guided transport options from Cape Town. Check out these reliable options from Get Your Guide if you’d like more relaxation, and less planning!
Pro tip: Opt for the car rental and pair the drive from Cape Town to Hermanus with stopovers at Cape of Good Hope and Boulders Beach to make the most of this scenic drive.
Interested in more posts from South Africa? Click here to check out more content!
WHALE WATCHING IN HERMANUS: WHAT TO EXPECT
There are a limited number of tour operators licensed to move from Hermanus’ Harbor, so be sure to plan in advance during the peak whale-watching season. For my visit, I chose Southern Right Charters because I was trying to make the most of my time in town, and they offer a unique, 6:30am sunrise tour that no one else does.
Southern Right is one of the most trusted and environmentally responsible companies for whale watching in Hermanus, having been in operation since 1999, so it seemed like a perfect fit (and it was). Here’s what you need to do before booking a tour:
Details & Costs
Tour Duration: A trip can last anywhere between 1.5-3 hours, with most excursions averaging 2 hours. They don’t limit a trip based on time, rather it's based upon the best experience possible.
Cost (as of April 2025):
Adults: R1440 (USD 75)
Students/Seniors: R1350 (USD 70)
Under 12: R720 (USD 40)
Under 3: Free
Booking: It's best to reserve your spot online in advance, especially during peak season, however bookings can be made in person at their office.
Note: Remember this tour is about spotting wildlife and Southern Right Charters can’t control how many whales are seen. One of the perks of booking through this company is that they offer either a 50% refund or a free reservation on another tour if your trip is canceled, interrupted, or unsuccessful.
A Southern Right Whale breaches the waters of Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
HOW TO PREPARE FOR A SOUTHERN RIGHT CHARTERS TOUR
I visited in August and one thing I did NOT account for after living in West Africa for a year, was that it was winter in South Africa. That, combined with the 6:30am pre-sunrise departure, let’s just say I was grossly underprepared.
So, here’s your chance to learn from my mistakes!
1. Layer Up. Both base layers and an outer layer to cut the wind. The trip sets off in the dark. Whether seated inside the catamaran or standing on the top deck, you’ll the crisp morning air. Needless to say, my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket was well worth the investment.
2. Pack gloves or hand warmers. There’s nothing worse than spotting a whale rolling in the waves with the sun rising in the background and going to snap a photo with frozen fingers. The warm drinks that Southern Right Charters offers is a good start, but best to back a back-up plan. Here’s the power bank/electric warmer I never leave home without, because you don’t want your phone to die or hands to freeze as you get to take the photo of the year!
3. Any medications needed. Yes, Southern Right has a boat that offers maximum stability, but this does not mean you won’t sill be rocking and rolling in the waves. If you get seasick, plan ahead. You don’t want to feel unwell on a magical experience like this! If you don’t like medication, try these anti-nausea bands that use acupressure. They were a lifesaver during my time on Semester at Sea!
4. Get there early. Each trip starts with a required safety briefing. Don’t be that late shower that holds the group up. Get there ahead of the suggested time and be ready to go.
Overall, I’d highly recommend the sunrise tour as it was a unique experience to witness the whales rolling in the waves with sand dunes and the sun rising over the mountains as a backdrop. This trip was right up there on my list of top whale watch experiences, right alongside Kaikoura, New Zealand.
Of course, South Africa is far more than just whale watching so it’s important to plan ahead, do your research, and put together a comprehensive packing list!
Setting out with Southern Right Charters at sun rise for a whale watch excursion
OTHER WAYS TO WHALE WATCH
No problem! That’s where the Hermanus Cliff Walk comes into action. This 12km paved pathway winds its way along the rocky coastline, providing the ultimate viewpoints to whale watch from land.
Personally, I spent my morning with Southern Right Charters on the sunrise tour, and the rest of the day spotting Southern Right Whales breaching the waters from the cliff walk while popping in and out of cafes around town. It's hard to miss the whales with a reliable Whale Crier surveilling the bay!
Note: As the path is paved, most of the cliff walk is accessible to wheelchairs, making it easy for anyone to experience the magic of whale watching.
A Southern Right Whale spotted from the Hermanus Cliff Walk in South Africa
BEYOND WHALE WATCHING IN HERMANUS
Although world famous thanks to the Southern Right Whales, Hermanus is more than just marine life with plenty to explore. Located on Market Square St. in the heart of town is the Old Harbor Market, a collection of handcrafts and locally made goods.
Spend an afternoon wandering the Whale Museum or hop between cozy coffee shops to slow down and enjoy village life (Platō Coffee is my favorite).
Looking for more activity and nature? Be sure to explore the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and all 60km of trails that zigzag through the mountains.
WHERE TO STAY FOR THE BEST HERMANUS EXPERIENCE
For my trip, I chose to stay at an Airbnb after finding this cozy place located just across the street from the Hermanus Cliff Walk. It was a perfect mix of peace and quiet while remaining within walking distance of the town center and a supermarket.
Other options include Hermanus Backpackers ($), Zzzone Boutique Hostel ($$), and Bamboo Guest House ($$$).
Pro Tip: Ever heard of load shedding? This is when planned power outages occur in South Africa to conserve the energy grid. After living in West Africa for nearly three years, it was a welcomed improvement to at least be told when the power would cut and for how long! Pay attention so you can be sure your devices are charged ahead of time.
Sunrise from the helm of Southern Right Charters tour in Hermanus, South Africa
A whale-watching trip in Hermanus is an unparalleled experience and at the top of my list of things to do in South Africa. Whether you're spotting these majestic creatures from the boat or enjoying the coastal walkway of Hermanus, this journey is well worth the short trip from Cape Town.
Have you been whale watching in Hermanus or elsewhere around the world? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Virtual Trip Around the World: Because the travel bug waits for no one!
It's no secret that the travel bug waits for no one. Follow along on my Semester at Sea itinerary from 2010 and travel the world from the comfort of your couch. 110 days, 12 ports, 10 countries, and 4 continents later, you'll have traveled around the world and be equipped with the knowledge you need to plan your next great adventure!
It’s no secret that this past year has been full of difficulty and challenges, especially for those of us that have perpetually itchy feet and are used to exploring new places. Despite it all, it’s important to continuously remind ourselves that a global pandemic isn’t forever and the time will come when we can get back on those dusty, off the beaten path roads around the world.
Until it’s safe to do so, we’ll have to settle for curbing our wanderlust through virtual trips, books, and documentaries.
The below itinerary is what I was fortunate enough to follow while studying abroad on Semester at Sea in 2010. Consisting of 110 days, 12 ports, 10 countries, and 4 continents, this post is less about my personal experience and more about taking you on a trip around the world to discover something new because, after all, the travel bug waits for no one!
Grab your favorite first-class cocktail, recline back in your seat, and let’s take off!
Interested in learning more about my Semester at Sea experience? Check out this post:
CANADA
Official Languages: English, French | Area: 9,970,610 sq-km | Population: 37.59 million | Capital City: Ottawa | Currency: Canadian Dollar
From sea to shining sea, experience everything from the rugged Atlantic coast in Newfoundland to the foggy Pacific in British Colombia. Get lost exploring the bustling cities of Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver or push north into the Yukon Territory and chase the northern lights during the winter months. As such a large country, it’s hard to comprehend all that Canada encompasses.
SEE & DO:
Get soaked on the Maid of the Mist at the 8th Wonder of the World, Niagara Falls.
Eat your way through Toronto’s diverse neighborhoods. Over 250 ethnicities and 170 languages are represented in the region.
Explore Quebec City’s Old Town, a registered UNESCO Heritage Site.
Be humbled by the awe-inspiring Canadian Rockies and visit the towns along the way such as Lake Louise, Banff, or Kananaskis.
Experience the way of life along the North Atlantic Ocean in Newfoundland and scope the icebergs, cliffs, and more.
Get your camera ready to capture the abundance of wildlife, including moose, black bears, and grizzly bears.
EAT: Poutine. A glob of french fries, cheese curds, and gravy sauce, this is sure to keep you warm during the blistering winters!
DRINK: Molson. Not only is it the oldest beer in Canada, it’s also the oldest brewery in North America (1786).
WATCH: Montreal, Samantha Brown’s Places to Love S1E12 (PBS).
ONE WORD: “Eh”. Canadians have not one, not two, but ten popular functions of the word. Pretty neat, eh?
KNOWN FOR: Hockey, cold winters, diversity, Tim Hortons, rocky coasts, abundant wildlife, friendly people.
RANDOM FACT: Regina, the capital of Saskatchewan, sits along the geographical center of North America.
Parliament Building, Ottawa
Canadian Rockies
Tourists ice skate on the famous Lake Louise
SPAIN
Official Language: Castilian Spanish | Area: 40,525,002 sq-km | Population: 46.94 million | Capital City: Madrid | Currency: Euro
Spain is high on food and social scenes, so much so that it’s rare you’ll never be steps away from a glass of sangria and a table full of tapas. The country is overflowing with vibrant culture and intricate architectural wonders. Wander, eat, sleep, repeat, and don’t forget to loosen those belt buckles! You’ll thank me later.
SEE & DO:
Bask in the glorious view of the world-famous Alhambra in Andalucía.
Indulge in an evening full of sangria and tapas hopping between bars.
Get lost in the rhythm of a live flamenco performance.
Gawk at the intricate tiles of the Plaza de España.
Step back in time and watch professional Matadors elegantly maneuver around charging balls. Note: watching the bulls die isn’t for everyone. Do your research ahead of time and know what to expect.
Relax on the pristine beaches and explore the secluded coves of Mallorca.
Pack a bag and hike a section of the famed Camino de Santiago.
EAT: Paella, but be sure to wash it down with a couple of delectable churros.
DRINK: Sangria.
WATCH: Spain, Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations S4E14.
ONE WORD: Siesta. It’s no joke here!
KNOWN FOR: Flamenco, delicious tapas, siesta and fiesta, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Antoni Gaudi.
RANDOM FACT: There are several words in Spanish with no direct translation, including Friolero, that person whose fingers are always white while yours are fine, and Pardo, the color between grey and brown.
A matador narrowly evades a charging bull in Sevilla
MOROCCO
Official Language: Arabic | Area: 504,782 sq-km | Population: 36.03 million | Capital City: Rabat | Currency: Moroccan Dirham
Located a stone’s throw away from the Spanish coast, Moroccan culture is seamlessly blending the new with the old. The ancient medina walls offer a glimpse into past kingdoms while the streets of Casablanca are brimming with a new generation of chic youth.
SEE & DO:
Fine tune your bartering skills at the Djemaa el-Fna square in Marrakesh. Stick around after the sun goes down and feast at one of the open-air food carts.
Get lost in the ancient Medina of Fez and follow your nose to one of the ancient leather tanneries.
Pay a visit to a local hammam, a traditional Moroccan bath.
Trek through the Atlas Mountains and immerse yourself in the Berber culture.
EAT: Couscous (crushed and steamed balls of durum wheat and topped with heaps of vegetables or meat).
DRINK: Mint tea, a staple of the Moroccan culture.
WATCH: Marrakesh with Chrissy Teagen, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner S1E2 (Netflix).
ONE WORD: Labas, how are you?
KNOWN FOR: Sahara Desert, tagine, Chefchaouen (a village where very house is painted blue), abundance of spices, Atlas Mountains.
RANDOM FACT: The minaret of Casablanca’s Hassan II Mosque rises to 210m and is the largest in the world while the mosque itself holds 25,000 worshipers at prayer.
The Hassan II Mosque’s minaret towers over visitors
A boy sits at the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca
GHANA
Official Language: English | Area: 446,550 sq-km | Population: 29.77 million | Capital City: Accra | Currency: Cedi
Commonly touted as "Africa for beginners," tourists love visiting Ghana because of its laid-back atmosphere, colorful culture, and ease of travel. To truly understand the people, pay a visit to one of the several slave castles that dot the coast and learn how the country became the first African nation to achieve independence in 1957.
SEE & DO:
Wander through the canopy at 40m above the forest floor in Kakum National Park.
Walk with elephants at one of Africa’s cheapest safaris in Mole National Park.
Soak up the sand between your toes and sleep in a thatched hut at Maranatha Beach Camp.
Get turned around in Accra’s Makola Market, but somehow still find everything you need.
Allow yourself to be overcome with emotion at one of Ghana’s forts as you stare at the ominous “Door of No Return” where slaves once left their homeland behind.
Experience all that Kejetia Market, West Africa’s largest, has to offer in Kumasi.
EAT: Fufu and bofrot (Ghana’s version of a donut).
DRINK: Palm wine from a villager’s homemade stash.
ONE WORD: Hani-Wodzo, let’s dance!
KNOWN FOR: Coastal forts, high-life vibes, beautiful beaches, colorful culture, “Africa for beginners”, friendly people.
RANDOM FACT: 20% of all cocoa beans come from Ghana, making this West African nation the second largest producer in the world.
A visitor carefully navigates the swinging canopy walk at Kakum National Park
Maranatha Beach Camp, Ghana
SOUTH AFRICA
Official Languages: Afrikaans, Venda, Tsonga, English, Southern Soto, Swati, Zulu, Tswana, Ndebele, Xhosa, Northern Soto | Area: 1,219,9090 sq-km | Population: 57.78 million | Capital Cities: Pretoria (administrative), Bloemfontein (Judicial), Cape Town (Legislative) | Currency: Rand
It wasn’t until 1994 that a democratically-elected government took control of South Africa, making it a relatively young country in regards to independence. The effects of the previous regime’s ruthless apartheid policy can still be felt throughout the nation, but the people are determined to rebuild a better tomorrow.
SEE & DO:
Hike to the top of Table Mountain and Lion’s Head Peak for stunning views over Cape Town.
Take the ferry to Robben Island and learn how apartheid ravaged the country until 1994 when the first democratic government was formed.
Bushwalk through Kruger National Park and spot elephants and zebras at dawn.
Travel to the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa’s southern tip. Be sure to make time to visit the penguins at Boulder Beach as well.
Trace the path of the FIFA 2010 Soccer World Cup, the first and only held on African soil.
Need more trip ideas? Check out these activities!
EAT: Vetkoek, a multi-use pastry commonly stuffed with minced meat and eaten as a savory snack or topped with jam for dessert.
DRINK: Wines from the Cape Winelands, Springbok shot (paying homage to South Africa’s national rugby team, the shooter combines creme de menthe and Amarula).
READ: Nelson Mandela’s inspiring autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom, and Archbishop Desmond Tutu’s emotional account of the Truth & Reconciliation Committee as the nation embarked on a long and painful healing process after apartheid, No Future Without Forgiveness.
WATCH: Cape Town, Somebody Feed Phil S2E5 (Netflix)
ONE WORD: Ubuntu (I am, because we are; a testament to the interconnectedness of humanity).
KNOWN FOR: Table Mountain, Springboks Rugby, Kruger National Park, Nelson Mandela, Archbishop Desmond Tutu, freedom fighters, unity.
RANDOM FACT: There are more than 2,000 shipwrecks off the coast of South Africa that date back 500 years.
Lion’s Head Peak at Sunset, Cape Town
MAURITIUS
Official Language: English, French, Creole | Area: 2,040 sq-km | Population: 1.265 million | Capital City: Port Louis | Currency: Rupee
Frequently overshadowed on a map by its neighbor, look for a small dot to the east of Madagascar and you’ll find Mauritius. A tiny island full of pristine beaches, creole cuisine, and stunning highlands, it’s a slice of paradise in the Indian Ocean.
Craving to learn more about Mauritius?
Check out this post:
SEE & DO:
Visit the cascading Chamarel Falls and mesmerizing Seven Colors of the Earth.
Hike through Black River Gorge National Park.
Relax on the beaches of Grand Baie.
Wander through the lively Port Louis Market.
Walk around the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolom Temple.
EAT: Camarons (freshwater prawns in spicy sauce).
DRINK: Phoenix Beer from Mauritius’ largest brewery.
ONE WORD: Kreol Morisien (Welcome).
KNOWN FOR: Phoenix beer, beach resorts, land of the lost dodo bird, sugar cane plantations, religious tolerance, island vibes.
RANDOM FACT: Electricity from sugar cane accounts for 14% of the island’s needs.
Seven Colors of the Earth
Black River Gorge
INDIA
Official Languages: English, Hindi, Bengali, Telugu, Marathi, Tamil, Urdu, Gujarati, Malaalam, Kennada, Oriyu, Punjabi, Assamese, Kashmiri, Sindhi, Sanskrit | Area: 3,287,263 sq-km | Population: 1.353 billion | Capital City: New Delhi | Currency: Indian Rupee
India often feels like a world of its own with so much diversity between north, south, east, and west. Traveling here requires stepping out of your comfort zone with all of the sights, sounds, and smells constantly overwhelming the senses, but it’s worth the effort.
SEE & DO:
Float down the Ganges River at sunrise in Varanasi and observe the morning cleansing and cremations along the ghats on shore.
Stand speechless at the entrance to the Taj Mahal.
Ride an overnight train for a true Indian experience.
Navigate rush hour in the gridlocked cities of Mumbai and Kolkata.
Catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest in Darjeeling.
EAT: Chaat (a savory snack served at roadside stalls).
DRINK: Scalding hot chai tea, lassy (a refreshing sweet or salty yogurt shake).
READ: Around India in 80 Trains by Monisha Rajesh.
ONE WORD: Dayaf, baya, sidha (right, left, straight, because a trip to India almost certainly requires directing your rickshaw).
KNOWN FOR: Holy cows, Taj Mahal, Gandhi, Himalayas, towering temples, Bollywood, hectic driving, Holi Festival.
RANDOM FACT: The Taj Mahal’s dome was covered in bamboo scaffolding in 1942 as a way to protect and disguise it from German bomber planes during World War II.
Mid-day viewing of the Taj Mahal with the masses.
SINGAPORE
Official Languages: Chinese, Malay, Tamil, English | Area: 697 sq-km | Population: 5.64 million | Capital City: Singapore | Currency: Singapore Dollar
Careful not to break the rules here as it’s known for strict regulations. Even chewing gum finds itself on the list of banned substances, but don’t be deterred. Singapore might be small in size, but it’s a cultural melting pot of food and people.
SEE & DO:
Wander the Waterloo St. temples and markets.
Soak up the sights, smells and sounds of Little India, Singapore’s ode to the bustling subcontinent.
Swim high above the city at one of the most famous infinity pools in the world, located at the Marina Bay Sands Hotel.
Enjoy a cold drink at Clarke Quay, a popular riverside hangout with plenty of bars and restaurants.
Take in a bird’s eye view aboard the Singapore Flyer, the city’s iconic ferris wheel.
Check out these guides for a comprehensive list of things to do in Singapore!
EAT: Any and all hawker food. Singapore is a place where cultures converge, so it’s only fitting that you try all it has to offer.
DRINK: Tiger Beer, Singapore Sling.
WATCH: Singapore, Somebody Feed Phil S4E3 (Netflix).
ONE WORD: Kiasu. This represents a person’s fear of losing, something that is a staple of sorts within the population.
KNOWN FOR: “No Durian” signs, strict laws including hefty fines for spitting and littering, Tiger Beer.
RANDOM FACT: Singapore is the world’s largest exporter of exotic aquarium fish.
Downtown Singapore
VIETNAM
Official Language: Vietnamese | Area: 331,210 sq-km | Population: 95.54 million | Capital City: Hanoi | Currency: Dong
Organized chaos is the best way to describe the buzzing streets of Saigon as motorbikes whiz by. For a country ravaged by war, the Vietnamese people are a smiley bunch that are eager to show their homeland to everyone and anyone willing to visit. Fresh food, friendly faces, and never a dull moment; what more do you need?
SEE & DO:
Slurp a steaming bowl of pho from the comfort of a rickety plastic stool on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City.
Hire a local fisherman and float the back channels of the Mekong Delta.
Play a game of human frogger in the cities as you try to dodge motorbikes from all directions before giving up and riding one yourself.
Explore the picturesque terraced rice fields in Sapa.
Live on a boat amidst the towering rock formations of Ha Long Bay.
EAT: Pho, Goi Cuon (spring roll).
DRINK: Cafe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee, also known as crack coffee).
WATCH: Vietnam, Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown S4E4.
ONE WORD: Thu’o’ng (th-uong) which describes something that is more than love.
KNOWN FOR: Conical hats, scooter mayhem, Mekong Delta, pho, “same same but different”.
RANDOM FACT: According to ancient Vietnamese folklore, Vietnamese people are descendants of dragons.
Boats docked along the Mekong Delta
A fisherman navigates the offshoot rivers of the Mekong Delta
HONG KONG
Official Languages: Chinese Cantonese, English | Area: 1,110 sq-km | Population: 7.45 million | Capital City: Central | Currency: Hong Kong dollar
Most recently, Hong Kong has created headlines around the world as tensions with China have reached a boiling point. Needless to say, the tiny island is living through a turning point in its history with new, more restrictive regulations. There’s only one question: what will the outcome be?
SEE & DO:
Explore Sham Shui Po, one of the oldest districts in Hong Kong that’s known for it’s textile industry.
Hop aboard the iconic Star Ferry for some of the best views of the city’s skyline from Victoria Harbour.
Reach the top of “The Peak”, the city’s best birds eye view, and marvel at the sheer magnitude of the metropolis below.
Be hypnotized by the extensive evening light show of downtown’s buildings.
EAT: Street food. Widely available, affordable, and a great snack for exploring. Some popular ones include curry fish balls, pineapple buns, and egg tarts.
DRINK: Red bean ice (red beans, sugar syrup, and milk).
WATCH: Hong Kong, Samantha Brown’s Places to Love S2E1 (PBS).
ONE WORD: Gay-dor-cheen-ah (how much is this?) because let’s face it, Hong Kong isn’t the cheapest place to visit in the world.
KNOWN FOR: Skyline views, Victoria Harbour, dim sum, luxury shopping, and political strife with China.
RANDOM FACT: Hong Kong means “fragrance harbor” in Cantonese.
Hong Kong as seen from the top of the The Peak
CHINA
Official Language: Mandarin | Area: 9, 596,961 sq-km | Population: 1.39 billion | Capital City: Beijing | Currency: Chinese Yuan
China is an intellectually intriguing nation to visit. On the surface, the vast country is filled with stunning scenery found nowhere else in the world, but dig a little deeper and the government’s harsh policies rear their ugly head. Where do you fall on this spectrum? One must visit to find out!
SEE & DO:
Hike the Great Wall of China.
Be humbled at the shear vastness of the country by taking a train from east to west.
Head to Yangshuo and float the Li River amongst the towering peaks that seemingly shoot straight up towards the sky.
Observe, learn, and practice T’ai chi each morning in one of the peaceful parks.
Walk the famous Shanghai Bund.
Uncover the 6,000 sculptures of Xi’an’s terracotta warriors.
Need help planning your trip? Here’s a list of curated guides to help!
EAT: Sichuan cuisine and it’s iconic fiery pepper seasoning.
DRINK: Tea at a traditional teahouse where the leaves are rolled, brewed, and roasted for an unmatched and unimaginable aroma.
READ: Peaks on the Horizon, a harrowing tale about one man’s escape from Chinese Authorities in Tibet.
ONE WORD: Ren, meaning to endure.
KNOWN FOR: Calligraphy, t’ai chi, Olympic Games, holistic medicine, the “ghosts” of Tibet, an up and coming wine industry, ancient culture.
RANDOM FACT: China is recognized by the Federation of International Football Association as having the oldest documented version of soccer during the Han Dynasty, over 2,000 years ago. The game was called “Tsu’ Chu” which translates as “kicking ball”.
The city of Guilin, the gateway to Yangshuo
Bamboo rafts float down the Li River in Yangshuo
JAPAN
Official Language: Japanese | Area: 377,915 sq-km | Population: 126.5 million | Capital City: Tokyo | Currency: Yen
No trip to Japan would be complete without venturing outside of the futuristic cities and into the past. The country prides itself on preserving its ancient culture, making it easy to stumble upon relics from throughout history. While you’re at it, be sure to take a deep dive into the food scene that awaits.
SEE & DO:
Hop between 7-11 and Lawsons for the quintessential Japanese convenience store meal, a staple of traveling through the country.
Get lost in busy streets of Tokyo and visit the world’s largest crosswalk at Shibuya.
Explore the zen gardens in Kyoto while trying to spot Geishas.
Confront the dark history of the world at Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Play with the deer in Nara, Japan’s ancient capital.
EAT: Sashimi, ramen, and gyoza.
DRINK: Shochu, the national spirit of Japan.
READ: Rice Noodle Fish, an unmatched culinary adventure through Japan’s food culture.
WATCH: Japan: Hokaido, Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations S7E8.
ONE WORD: Danryoku-sei, meaning resilient.
KNOWN FOR: Mt. Fuji, cherry blossoms, sushi, sumo, anime, kimonos, and Tokyo’s massive public transport system.
RANDOM FACT: Japan’s rail system is one of the most efficient and on-time around the world, so rush hour requires professionally employed “pushers” to make their rounds and shove passengers into the packed car for trains to run on schedule.
Todaiji Temple in Nara, Japan
Voila! You’ve completed a trip around the world. Although the future of travel still seems uncertain, it’s never too early to start planning your next great adventure. At the very least, it takes the edge off the travel bug a bit, right?
Need more information about a destination? Want my personal recommendations? Leave a comment below and let’s start putting your next adventure together!
Stay safe, wear a mask, & happy travels!
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Hello, World!
Top 30 Experiences from a Semester at Sea: Here's what a 110 day trip around the world is like
It has now been nine years since I stepped off of North American land, onto a ship, and straight into the unknown. To be honest, it still feels like yesterday and I think part of me is still processing the experience all these years later. I never imagined that an introvert such as myself would thrive in an environment like that, circumnavigating the globe for 110 days with complete strangers. As it turned out, it was truly the journey of a lifetime...
I’m not the most outgoing person in the world. If you find me in a social setting, I’ll be the person that happily sits there silently until spoken to. With that said, there are a few things that, if you get me going, I won’t be able to shut-up about: soccer, travel, and Semester at Sea.
Consider yourself warned!
This week marks nine years since embarking on my semester abroad.
Wait, what?
That’s right; NINE YEARS since I stepped off North American soil, onto a ship, and straight into the unknown.
To be honest, it still feels like yesterday. I think part of me is still processing the experience all these years later. I never imagined that an introvert such as myself would thrive in an environment full of strangers, all the while circumnavigating the globe.
As it turned out, it was truly the journey of a lifetime.
To celebrate the anniversary of the Fall 2010 Voyage, here are the top 30 experiences from my Semester at Sea!
ITINERARY
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Cádiz, Spain
Casablanca, Morocco
Takoradi, Ghana
Cape Town, South Africa
Port Louis, Mauritius
Chennai, India
Singapore
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Hong Kong
Shanghai, China
Kobe, Japan
Yokohama, Japan
Honolulu, Hawaii
Hilo, Hawaii
San Diego, California
SPAIN
1. Bull Fighting in Seville
Fresh off of a turbulent seven days at sea and ready to immerse ourselves in a different culture, we found our way over to the Plaza de Toros de la Real Masetranza de Caballería de Sevilla (talk about a mouthful). Little did we know there was a bullfight scheduled for that evening!
Did I stay past the first event? No, I did not. I opted for gelato over watching bulls die a slow death. Was I glad that I went to get the experience? Absolutely.
A bull chasing a matador in Sevilla, Spain
MOROCCO
2. The Train That Broke Down
The ship docked in Casablanca, but a group of us decided that we wanted to make our way to the Djemaa el-Fnaa market in Marrakech to get our first taste of bartering.
Halfway through the 2.5-hour ride, the train stopped. Stranded on the rails with nothing in sight, we passed the time by attempting to communicate with the locals in our compartment through charades, broken French, and awful drawings.
Miriam and Abdul have likely forgotten about the time they shared a seat with the crazy college students from America, but I still vividly remember the laughter that filled that day.
My roommate and I with Miriam on the broken-down train
3. Djemma el-Fnaa market at the end of Ramadaan
On a normal evening the market is buzzing with vendors and snake charmers. Clouds of smoke fill the sky with beautiful aromas from the food carts as music blares from all around.
Our trip coincided with the end of Ramadaan. I’ll always remember meeting a couple from the UK on the hotel shuttle en route to the market, a look of concern on their faces as we told them it was our first time in a place like this.
We stepped out of the van and stood on the sidewalk like a herd of deer staring directly into oncoming headlights. “It’ll be fine,” they said as we watched our new friends disappear into the chaos.
4. Haggling in the markets of Marrakech
This was my first experience of bartering and to put it bluntly, I was terrible. With that being said, learning how to negotiate a price, the acting skills needed to portray disinterest, and the guts to walk away from something I actually wanted - it was all thrilling.
GHANA
5. The Broken Down Van
The moment we stepped off of the ship, a group of us piled into a rickety van and drove 8 hours north to the village of Senase.
As the smooth pavement gave way to potholes beneath our wheels, the homes along the road vanished. All of a sudden the van came to a slow halt, moving only as far as gravity would take it.
The only thing in sight was a narrow path that led to a church. The driver caught a cab back to the closet village and we decided to wander the path while we waited.
The family that lived on the premises didn’t speak any English and we certainly didn’t speak their local dialect, but someone spotted a soccer ball in our periphery and that was enough to break any invisible barriers that lay between us.
6. Drumming & Dance Ceremony
As we prepared to depart Senase, the village had prepared a traditional drumming and dance performance.
The sounds of the beating drums, the vibrant colors, and the dazzling movements were enough to overload my senses. We were informed that it was our turn to dance for the village.
One minute I was sitting in a chair and the next I was making an utter fool of myself in front of hundreds of strangers. To tell you the truth, I loved every second of it!
Traditional drumming and dance in Senase, Ghana
7. Getting Soaked in the Back of a Truck
We whipped down the dirt roads of Ghana as I tried to take it all in with my eyes half-shut, shielding myself from the pounding rain while dodging overgrown tree branches along the way.
It was a rush of pure joy and remains one of my favorite parts about returning to Ghana.
SOUTH AFRICA
8. Climbing Table Mountain
I have an affinity for birds-eye views, so the second that we docked in Cape Town and saw Table Mountain rising high above the city skyline, I knew I needed to climb it.
We ended up hiking farther than required, but once we reached the summit no one cared. The sweeping views across the cape were worth it.
9. Visiting Robben Island
A humbling, sober, and powerful experience, to say the least.
10. Lion’s Head Peak at Sunset
Lion’s Head remains one my favorite hikes in the world.
Sure, the views from Table Mountain were spectacular as well, but reaching the peak as the sun dipped below the horizon capped off my South African explorations in the best possible way.
View from the top of Lion’s Head Peak in Cape Town, South Africa
MAURITIUS
11. Stranded in Grand Baie
One taxi driver, a major miscommunication, and hours of driving later, a friend and I found ourselves stranded in Grand Baie with no money left to make it to the ship in Port Louis. There was only one thing to do: take a swim in the Indian Ocean and enjoy the sunset! We made it back, eventually.
INDIA
12. Ganges River at Sunrise
I felt compelled to take a trip here the second I read about the field excursion planned through Semester at Sea. Why? I’m not entirely sure.
As our boat gently glided across the calm waters of the Ganges at sunrise and watched the local people cleanse their bodies along the banks, it all made sense. Serene is the only way to describe it.
Early morning scenes at the Ganges River in Varanasi, India
13. Driving a Rickshaw in Varanasi
My friend and I jokingly asked our driver if we could take a turn. Without missing a beat, he scooted to his right and made room for me in the front seat. It was the ultimate driving test: could I avoid the densely packed streets and roaming cows? Barely.
14. Taj Mahal
Usually I’ll try to avoid the tourist trail, but this was one experience I couldn’t pass up. I found a spot in the lush grass and simply sat and stared for what felt like hours. I’ll never forget that view.
The Taj Mahal in Agra, India
SINGAPORE
15. Playing with Monkeys
During a nature walk through the city’s forest we happened to stumble upon a family of monkeys waiting to steal food from unsuspecting tourists. The term “playing” is used loosely here, but nonetheless it was fun to watch these bandits carry out their business.
VIENTAM
16. Tourist-napped in Saigon
No, we weren’t actually kidnapped although it certainly felt like it at the time.
We knew that we could hire a boat that would take us along the Mekong Delta if we could reach the town of My Tho . What we didn’t know was that the taxi driver we hired from Ho Chi Minh City worked with a tour company and would take us straight to a boat dock, accompanying us the entire day.
We begrudgingly went along with the tour, plotting our “escape” as we went. In the end, we paid the guide to drive himself back to Ho Chi Minh City and continued wandering My Tho in search of our own adventure on the Mekong Delta.
It was worth it!
Cruising the Mekong Delta in My Tho, Vietnam
17. Playing Frogger in Ho Chi Minh City
It’s common to be taken aback by the sheer amount of motorbikes on the road in all of Vietnam, but especially in a city as densely packed as Ho Chi Minh.
The moment we thought we had mastered the art of crossing the road without hesitation, we learned of another version of the game: car vs. car.
As we rode in a cab through a torrential downpour, we couldn’t figure out what the tiny white lights in front of us were. It was only when our driver took a hard left that we realized we had taken an exit ramp onto the highway and had been heading into oncoming traffic.
In all likelihood, it wasn’t as exciting as this story sounds, but with the rain clouding our vision, it sure got the adrenaline pumping!
18. Hy Vong 8 School for the Deaf in Ho Chi Minh City
Semester at Sea did a phenomenal job of organizing service trips in nearly every port that we visited.
This was the first one I was able to squeeze my way into and I enjoyed it so much that I ended up visiting the school twice. We watched the students dance, chaperoned a field trip to the local zoo, and laughed so hard our stomachs hurt as we tried to learn sign language.
CHINA
19. Overnight buses
I stepped onto the overnight bus in Shenzen only to find that my ticket didn’t correspond with a seat, but rather a bottom bunk that came complete with a pillow and comforter.
Amazing.
Later on, when it was time for another overnight trip, I didn’t think twice. Another night spent falling asleep in a comfy bed while watching a movie in Mandarin, creating the plot in my own head? No problem!
Except for this time, my ticket led me to the back of the bus, into the middle row, and onto the top bunk.
I’m not sure if it was the sticky mat that served as my bed or the fear of being flung over the metal railings that were far too small to provide any sort of protection, but I didn’t catch a wink of sleep that night and I loved every second of it.
20. Cruising the Li River in Yangshuo
The Li River was one of the most picturesque landscapes that I have had the privilege of experiencing.
Surrounded by limestone cliffs that rose majestically towards the sky, we gently floated along with the current.
As beautiful as the mountains were, I’ll never forget the group of Asian tourists that passed us by and, in the process, gleefully sprayed our bamboo raft with water guns. Why? Your guess is as good as mine!
Floating along the Li River outside of Yangshuo, China
21. Entering Zizhou Park
The overnight bus had dropped us in Guilin at 5 am, so we decided to go wander Zizhou Park before finding breakfast.
As we reached the gates and realized it was closed, a woman appeared and offered to have her husband take us into the park via his raft. With nowhere else to go, we agreed.
Before we knew it, the three of us were on floating down the Lijiang River under the cover of darkness, accompanied only by a Chinese man puffing a cigarette and a dimly lit lantern that illuminated the way.
The park itself was beautiful, but entering before the sun rose above the horizon was the true adventure.
The man and boat that brought us into the park before dawn
22. Eating Our Way Through the Streets
Dumpling, dumplings, and more dumplings. Maybe this is the reason why I constantly find myself seeking out the best jiaozi (Chinese dumplings) wherever I go!
JAPAN
23. Sleepless in Tokyo
We took the train from Yokohama with one thing in mind: visiting the famous Tsukiji Fish Market and arriving early enough to watch the giant tuna auctions unfold.
In order to save money, we decided to migrate between 24-hour restaurants throughout the night. As the clock turned to 3 am, we headed to the market only to find a sign that read: “Today is a regular holiday.”
In the moment we were flabbergasted, feeling completely exhausted and disheveled, but that night is now one of my favorite memories.
I’ve been to Tokyo on one other occasion and again, the fish market was closed. What are the odds of that?
24. Feeding the Deer in Nara
Deer are considered sacred to the Shinto religion and, as a result, roam freely around the streets of Nara.
As with any other species that has had extensive contact with humans, it’s not uncommon for the deer to approach people in search of food (which is conveniently sold throughout the parks).
The result? Endless amounts of fun.
25. Yokohama F. Marinos Soccer Game
Japan is well-known for it’s rambunctious baseball games, but while most of our fellow sport-fanatic shipmates headed to the Tokyo Dome, we opted to attend a soccer match in Yokohama. The pageantry from the fans did not disappoint!
Fans of Yokohama F. Marinos passionately cheer their team on
LIFE AT SEA
26. Stargazing on the Observation Deck
Periodically throughout the voyage, the Semester at Sea staff onboard the ship would organize an evening of stargazing. As the Captain temporarily shut off the outdoor lighting, the sky was immediately illuminated with millions of stars.
27. Sunsets at Sea
It didn’t matter what the weather was; overcast, stormy, or even as sunny as could be. Each and every sunset was amazing.
Sunset in the middle of the Pacific Ocean
28. Crossing 0° Latitude and 0° Longitude at the Same Time
During our passage from Ghana to South Africa, the Captain veered in order to bisect the prime meridian and equator at the same time.
As the shipboard community gathered on the deck, we knew that as the ship’s horns bellowed across the open ocean, for a split second, we were indeed at the center of the world.
29. Early Morning Port Arrivals
Nothing quite brought the shipboard community together like standing outside on the deck at 5 am, huddling together for warmth as we all stared at the twinkling lights on the horizon.
It quickly became my favorite pastime throughout the voyage, each time eliciting a feeling of excitement and anticipation of what was to come.
Arriving in Cape Town, South Africa at dawn
30. Work Study
One of the many benefits of Semester at Sea was the vulnerability it took to build a brand new community within the confines of the ship. Between classes, roommates, clubs, and volunteering, there were plenty of opportunities to do so. I was fortunate enough to receive a work-study scholarship and had a blast helping out in the field office!
BONUS
31. Embarkation
The mixed emotions I felt - anticipation, nervousness, disbelief, excitement - as we departed Halifax and the last remaining visible piece of land disappeared below the horizon is what hooked me to travel.
It’s a feeling that I still chase to this day.
32. Diverse Faculty and Staff
Part of the allure to go on the Fall 2010 voyage was the opportunity to live alongside Archbishop Desmond Tutu and his wife, Leah.
Needless to say, the entire 110-day journey was filled with “pinch me” moments as the Archbishop went about his business, casually fist-bumping students and spreading joy as he sauntered the halls.
I often contemplate what defines me as a person; what words or phrases might come to mind when someone mentions “Chris Toone.”
I’m confident that Semester at Sea is one of them. It not only opened my eyes and shattered my views of the world, but challenged me on a personal level in ways that I never could have imagined.
For that, I am eternally grateful.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels!
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