Three Years Living in Africa: 10 Experiences I’ll Never Forget
After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the world…
Three years isn't a lifetime, but it's long enough for a place to change you. When I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved to Ghana in 2022, I expected a change of scenery, maybe an adventure here and there or at least a good story to come home and tell when I, what I figured would be inevitably, decided to return home.
What I didn't expect was how dramatically my perspective on travel, nature, and life would shift; how the journey would become much more impactful than the destination.
Looking back, these aren't necessarily the "best" places I've visited. They're simply the moments that have stayed with me the most.
Three Years, Ten Experiences That Changed Everything
10. Wechiau Hippo Community Sanctuary, Ghana
Imagine yourself in a dugout canoe with a single paddle, a rushing Volta River in one of the most remote parts of Northern Ghana, and a bloat of hippos staring you down while you hang onto the shoreline branches.
In Ghana’s Upper West Region, along the border with Burkina Faso, the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary protects a 40-kilometer stretch of the Black Volta River and the surrounding woodlands.
The flooded waters of the Black Volta River, separating Ghana (right) from Burkina Faso (left)
It’s not easy to reach; we managed to arrive after 3 days of driving endless dirt roads from the Eastern Region, but it was well worth the effort. We had spoken to someone who had visited the week prior, spent hours on the river, and didn’t manage to see a single hippopotamus.
As we entered the small house that doubled as a museum, our guides were excited to tell us they had just concluded a census and knew exactly where to look, so we hopped back in the car, picked up our boat captain at the next village en route to the river bank, and off we went. Within ten minutes of paddling against a heavy current, we found ourselves face to face with these majestic animals, nothing but a wooden canoe between us and turning into their afternoon snack.
It sounds a bit crazy, right? It was, but it was also raw and stripped down; the purest form of seeing these hippos in Ghana in their most wild state.
A bloat of hippos in the flooded Black Volta River, part of the protected Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana
9. Lake Kivu, Rwanda
Central Africa had been brewing in my mind. Ever since reading Heart of Darkness in high school, the Congo and its mysteries have been tucked away into my subconscious. The longer I stay in Africa, the more I find myself daydreaming about it.
Traveling to Rwanda was a last-second decision, less than a week between booking the ticket and boarding the plane, so I didn’t have much planned beyond knowing I wanted to at least see the Congo, even if I couldn’t enter. Lake Kivu was the closest I could get.
Mount Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, with Lake Kivu in the foreground
Rwanda is a complex country with a dark history, having endured the 1994 Tutsi genocide. It’s a tiny nation filled with greenery and rolling hills, but one gets the sense of something “deeper” going on, and the truth is, the fallout from the genocide is a major driving force behind the current conflict in Eastern Congo, but I digress.
Lake Kivu straddles Rwanda and the Congo and sits at the base of active volcanoes with tectonic plates nearby. Why is this important? Large amounts of carbon dioxide and methane gas are trapped at the bottom, and scientists believe a volcanic eruption or earthquake may just be enough to shake the water levels and release the toxic gas.
One can’t deny the natural beauty, though. At the time of my visit, both the Rwandan and Congolese Governments were set to reopen the border at Gisenyi. I spent my time staring across Lake Kivu, into the Congo, and listening to stories from my Belgian host about growing up in Bukavu and her experience living in post-genocide Rwanda, and, of course, swimming in Lake Kivu, flanked by conflict to the west and volcanoes to the east.
A boat floats on Lake Kivu at sunset as a storm rolls in, shot looking towards the Democratic Republic of the Congo
Rwanda left me with more questions than answers. A country scarred by its unimaginable history, embroiled in regional conflict, and a lake that’s one natural event away from disaster - how much can one place endure? Time will tell. In the meantime, I’ll carry the stunning scenery of Lake Kivu with me for a long while.
8. São Tomé and Príncipe
The second smallest sovereign state in Africa, one of the least visited countries in the world, São Tomé and Príncipe is less than a two hour flight from Accra and, seemingly, a convenient place to explore for someone living in Ghana.
Although a short flight, São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t the easiest to visit. The country isn’t on the international banking system, which means credit cards don’t work outside of higher end hotels and most foreign debit cards aren’t accepted at ATMs. That means that a certain level of planning and foresight (neither are a strong suit of mine) are important to ensuring you don’t run out of cash during your stay.
Porto Alegre, a remote village on the southern part of São Tomé, is one of the more difficult places to reach on the island
A few torrential rain storms and an overheated rental car later, São Tomé treated me to unspoiled nature like I’ve never seen, highlighted by coastal drives, coffee plantations, and the majestic Pico Grande, a volcanic plug that dominates the interior landscape of the country.
Such low tourism numbers also come with poor infrastructure. Roads are often difficult to navigate, especially after rain, power and phone networks frequently cut out, and healthcare is challenging to access. São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t necessarily a place to vacation, rather a trip to see, experience, and be a part of.
It’s one of the few places I’ve traveled where I truly felt disconnected from the outside world, where being present was the norm, not the exception.
The island of São Tomé is filled with unspoiled nature and landscapes
7. Liwonde National Park, Malawi
Liwonde National Park encompasses 54,000 hectares of land and stretches along the Shire River, making it one of the premier wildlife destinations in Malawi.
By day, the winding dirt roads yielded spectacular sightings: juvenile elephants attempting to assert their dominance, a cheetah digesting a fresh kill, and more.
As the scorching sun started to dip, I, along with the few other guests, clamored onto a boat and headed towards the Shire River.
Out in the open water, we quickly heard grunting, and a hippopotamus surfaced from below. Then another. And another. “Behind us”, our guide shouted as three more surfaced with a loud noise. “Look ahead,” another person said as five more appeared in the distance.
Hippos breach the surface of the Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi
For a period of time, I didn’t know where to look. As we bobbed up and down in the boat, hippos kept coming and going, seemingly nonstop, so much so that I lost count. I later found out that Liwonde National Park is home to an estimated 2,500 of them!
We continued making our way through the traffic, approaching a family of elephants on the riverbank as they cooled themselves in the water with the evening glow perfectly illuminating the scene. Again, a splash of water, a grunt, and an exclamation: “more hippos, turn around”.
The sun sets along the flooded shores of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi
I had come across these majestic, yet volatile animals one other time before this trip, but never in this quantity and certainly not from the confines of a rickety boat with nowhere to go.
As we returned to camp at sunset, all I can remember was the feeling of peace and gratitude, ready for a good night’s sleep after a full day immersed in nature.
6. Sunrise Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa
Ever since whale watching in Kaikoura, New Zealand, I constantly find myself researching whale migration patterns anytime I take a trip that’s remotely near the coast. As it turns out, August is one of the peak viewing months for Southern Right Whales and the town of Hermanus, South Africa, located less than two hours' drive from Cape Town, is considered to be the whale watching capital of the world.
Too good to be true since I happened to have a month off work in August, right?
My thoughts exactly.
The morning light illuminates the bay in Hermanus, South Africa
Working with a small budget, I opted for the cheapest excursion I could find, which meant waking up at 4 am, bundling up in layers, sleepily making my way to the harbor, boarding a boat in the frigid dark, and heading out to the bay.
Soon enough, the orange glow of the sun warmed the cool South African winter morning as whales played in the waves around us.
Between an unbeatable sunrise scene and several whale sightings, this was one of the highlights of my time spent in South Africa, and an experience I won’t soon forget.
A whale breaches the water in the morning light in Hermanus, South Africa
5. Nyika National Park, Malawi
A quick internet search labels Nyika National Park as one of the most remote and hardest-to-get-to parts of Malawi.
Located in the Northeast of the country, the park itself spans into neighboring Zambia; however, it’s only accessible from the Malawian side.
Sitting on a plateau that rises to 2,600m, the name “Nyika” is derived from the phrase “where the water comes from.”
As Malawi’s largest, Nyika National Park is home to herds of zebra and is said (unsubstantiated in recent years), to have the highest density of leopards in Central Africa. From the logistics just to reach the entry gate to the unique and remote landscapes that awaited, I knew it was a must-visit.
The rolling hills of Nyika National Park are often compared to the Scottish Highlands
So, I made my way from Southern Malawi to the north, using any means necessary, from car to moto to public ferry (see MV Ilala below), and finishing with a shared taxi to Mzuzu. Here, I picked up my Toyota Fortuner and set off.
Each time I mentioned “Nyika” as my destination at the police checkpoints, the officer grinned and said, “car might not make it, good luck.” A normal human being might get deterred after the fifth time, but it simply made me more intrigued.
The further I drove, the more the roads narrowed, and I began to question Google Maps. This seemingly endless, single-lane dirt road with no one in sight isn’t the best way to reach the park, right?
Wrong.
Sure enough, after hours of contemplating the repercussions of bursting a tire or overheating the car alone in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, a small cluster of homes appeared and led to the gates of Nyika National Park.
To describe the park as remote is an understatement. So much so that a worker asked to hitch a ride to the campsite; otherwise, he would have to walk the 60km to work and hope that a ride passed by. As it turns out, my new friend was extremely helpful when the car bottomed out and got stuck in the dense mud tracks 30km into the park.
Zebras are one of the most dense animal populations inside Nyika National Park
I finally reached the campsite by nightfall, pitched my tent, dressed in every layer possible (admittedly, as I’m sure you can tell, I did not extensively research this trip before doing it and was severely underprepared), and settled in as one of three visitors in the entire 1250 square mile park.
The morning sun and campfire was a welcomed warmth to a shivering night. My guide walked me through the rolling hills, spotting herds of zebra along the way, before a solo mountain bike around the campsite in the evening.
I’m not sure if it was the nature itself or the effort it took to get there, but either way, Nyika National Park is a top thing to do in Malawi, as far as I’m concerned.
4. Togo’s Akodessawa Voodoo Market
Imagine you’re on the back of a motorbike in Lome, Togo. You arrive at your destination, step onto the sandy road with the afternoon sun beating down, and breathe in.
You nearly gag at the stench, turn a corner, and see an open space; stalls of dead animals line an open space, with a sculpture covered at the center, blackened by sundried blood sacrifices.
Welcome to Togo’s Akodessawa Fetish Market, the largest of its kind in the world.
For West Africans, it’s the one-stop shop for ingredients needed for the Voodoo religion, but for me, it was one of those moments that was a stark reminder of where I was in the world.
Regular blood sacrifices turn the sculpture black from the sunlight
I didn’t quite know what I was getting myself into. The only concepts I had of Voodoo were dolls used as a source of revenge and curses, but, as I learned, the term “Black Magic” came with colonial roots. A way to fearmonger and create divide, to justify ongoing occupation of Africa.
Strolling around the market, we encountered everything from monkey tails to puppy heads, snake skin, and more. But what we didn’t find was anything “dark”. Instead, Voodoo priests consult with visitors on intrinsic desires, like ensuring safe travels, finding love, or obtaining financial security.
Needless to say, I went into this day with zero expectations, but came away with a deeper, more meaningful understanding and respect of the parts of West African culture that we don’t often learn about.
A dusty stall sells common ingredients for Fetish Priests, just one of many at Akodessawa Festish Market
3. Sani Pass, Lesotho and South Africa
As I planned for a month in South Africa, I kept coming back to the Sani Pass. A 9km stretch of tumultuous road descending from the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho and into South Africa, often described as one of the most thrilling 4x4 roads in the world, it’s commonly touted as the “Roof of Africa”.
What could possibly go wrong, right?
In this case, a failed 4x4 car rental, an adjusted itinerary, no phone working in Lesotho, and that’s just the beginning.
When the car rental agency said they couldn’t honor the 4x4 reservation, my brain immediately went to “how do I make this work?” I had planned to drive up the pass from South Africa into Lesotho, but surely coming down would be easier.
I took the next few hours to adjust my itinerary, working in reverse, and drove into Lesotho at another order before reaching the pass at the top.
A car carefully navigates the start of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa
It was a windy morning, so much so that I could barely open the car door and stand up straight. I sat at the Sani Mountain Escape for hours, warming myself with a cup of coffee, watching vehicles struggle up the pass and constantly questioning myself and what I was about to do.
As the afternoon rush of tourists from the South African side entered the pub, it was now or never. I walked across the empty road into the Lesotho immigration shack, stamped my passport, got behind the wheel, and slowly started the solo descent in my Rav4.
Thirteen hairpin turns later, each with a comforting name such as “Suicide Bend” and “Devil’s Corner”, I hit the tar again on the South African side, stamped my passport, thanked my lucky stars for the experience, and carried on my way.
To this day, I still vividly hear the final words from the South African Immigration Officer at the bottom border: “This is a 4x4, right?”
“I think so,” I mumbled, before jumping back in the car and driving off.
A view from the bottom of the pass, in South Africa, and back up towards Lesotho, the “Roof of Africa”
2. Hiking Ghana’s Waterfalls
I’m ashamed to admit that I had been visiting Ghana since 2010 as part of Aya, a non-profit founded on the belief that everyone has the right to quality education. That meant that most of the time in the country was spent on hours-long busses between Accra and Berekum instead of exploring.
When I relocated in 2022, I settled in Ghana’s Eastern Region and was exposed to the natural beauty.
The Akuapem-Togo mountain range, as seen from Ghana, which makes up part of the border with Togo
Fast forward three years and some of my favorite places to explore are the mountains of the Volta Region, on the border with Togo. Not only will you find Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s tallest peak, here, but the area is also home to stunning waterfalls and hikes.
Nothing beats an early evening stroll to Wli Waterfalls or a morning hike and swim at Tagbo Falls. Make a weekend of it and unwind at Tagbo Falls Ecolodge, one of the best places for some rest and relaxation.
Tagbo Falls as seen from above in Liati Wote, Ghana
1. MV Ilala Ferry, Lake Malawi
Many people ask “why Malawi,” and, to be honest, I don’t really have an answer. I had a month off from work, a flight credit to use, and Malawi fit the criteria of within budget, filled with nature, and plenty of unknowns. So, my response to this question ends up being “why not.”
One experience that I kept coming back to while researching the country was the MV Ilala.
This historic ferry was built in 1949 in Scotland and has since been ferrying passengers and cargo up and down the shores of Lake Malawi since its launch in 1951. Carrying up to 360 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, the MV Ilala runs the length of the lake, from Monkey Bay up to Chilumba near the Tanzanian border, on a weekly schedule.
Passengers help load both cargo and people into fishing boats below, the only way to get to shore at many ports
I needed a way to connect the southern part of my Malawi itinerary to Nyika National Park, and what better way to do that than spend 40 hours on a ferry, packed to the brim with 300+ new friends?
Skeptical that the email I sent a week in advance was enough to secure a cabin, I arrived in Monkey Bay early in the morning to a throng of people and cargo, waiting in line, and was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process.
Ticket in hand, I navigated the crowd and boarded, watching from the top deck as passengers loaded everything from mattresses to stoves, and more. Soon enough, we left the port and were on our way.
Many of the ports of call along the route are too shallow for the ferry to dock, so it was a shock to me when we dropped anchor and fishing boats came out to collect people and baggage, a stream of traffic climbing up and down the side of the ship.
At the second stop, one of the MV Ilala’s official shore boats stalled its engine and was left stranded bobbing up and down in the lake’s waves, signaling for help from shore. By the time that was solved, the weather had turned, winds picked up, and the captain was afraid of capsizing, so we stayed put off the shores of Senga Bay, effectively delaying our travel by 7+ hours.
The sun sets along Lake Malawi as we dropped anchor and spent the night after winds picked up
After waking the next morning and wondering why it felt like we weren’t moving (in reality, because we weren’t), the captain cleared us to continue.
A fellow traveler and I decided to disembark at Likoma Island to stretch our legs. As the sun set, we made our way back to the port, elbowed our way into one of the wooden shuttle boats that were so deep you had to stand and use each other for support, before making our way back to the ship in the dark.
I’m convinced that re-boarding is a special skill, having to wait until the waves lift your boat up, grabbing hold of the railings at the right time, and hoisting yourself back onto the ferry with the help of people behind you making sure you don’t fall backwards.
Getting on and off the MV Ilala is often an adventure in itself, climbing from the side of the sip into awaiting fishing boats
On we went, eventually reaching Nkhata Bay at 3 am. I descended below deck to the massive crowd crush trying to disembark, tossed my bags into a waiting boat, and climbed through the dark to reach them. We finally made it to shore after 2+ days traveling Lake Malawi, I pitched my tent in the dead of night, and watched the MV Ilala Ferry pull out of port the next morning from shore.
An experience I won’t forget anytime soon.
Looking Back
I’m now on year four of living in West Africa, and although it’s taught me so much, there’s plenty more to learn and absorb.
This move and these experiences have brought a necessary shift in my perspective, a boost in resilience and adaptability, and, despite the chaos, a level of calmness I never experienced living in the United States.
Thanks for reading, and cheers to whatever adventures may lie ahead in this crazy life of ours.
What are some of your favorite travel stories? Share in the comments below and, until next time, stay safe & happy travels.
Ready to upgrade your camera gear? Here’s what travels with me on every trip:
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Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana: The Perfect Day Trip from Accra (2026 Guide)
It wasn’t until I began living here full-time that I slowed down enough to appreciate what this country truly offers beyond the cities. One place that continues to stand out is the Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana, a peaceful escape tucked into the Akuapem Hills and easily one of the best day trips from Accra. If you’re looking to trade chaos for calm, this is where you’ll find it…
When I first arrived in Ghana back in 2010 on Semester at Sea, most of my time was spent in transit—moving between bus stations and project sites.
It wasn’t until I began living here full-time that I slowed down enough to appreciate what this country truly offers. Although there are plenty of things to see and do in Accra, Ghana is so much more.
One place that continues to stand out is the Aburi Botanical Gardens, a peaceful escape tucked into the Akuapem Hills and easily one of the best day trips from Accra.
If you’re looking to trade chaos for calm, this is where you’ll find it. Here’s what to expect when visiting Ghana’s Aburi Botanical Gardens.
Aburi Botanical Gardens Quick Facts:
Location: Aburi, Eastern Region (1 hour from Accra)
Hours: 8:30am - 5pm (daily)
Entrance Fees: GHS 20-60 (see more below)
Best Time to Visit: Early morning before the crowds
History of the Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana
The history of the Aburi Botanical Gardens dates back to colonial times, specifically the late 19th century.
In 1875, British officials located the spot and built a sanatorium for recovering officers. The Akuapem Hills offer a peaceful environment with cool mountain air, providing the perfect combination to heal both mind and body.
It wasn’t until 1890 that Governor William Brandford-Griffith and his associate, Dr. John Farrell Easmon, officially converted the land into a botanical garden. At first, it played an important part in shaping Ghana’s agriculture by serving as a place of experimentation for the viability of crops, but as the early 20th century came to be, the site opened to the public on a recreational basis.
To this day, it remains an important partner in plant conservation and education, while serving as one of the most peaceful green spaces in Ghana.
Ready to visit the Aburi Botanical Gardens? Here’s everything you need to know.
Where are the Aburi Botanical Gardens Located? (Accra Distance & Map)
Nestled in the Akuapem Hills, the Aburi Botanical Gardens lies in the Eastern Region of Ghana and high above Accra.
Here’s a breakdown of the best options to reach the gardens:
Uber/Bolt: Costing ~GHS 150 one-way from Central Accra
Taxi: Use reliable contacts and negotiate down for the best rate
Tro-tro: Pick a car at Madina Market at head towards Aburi, costing between GHS 5 and 10 (ask to be dropped near the gardens)
Rideshares are less accessible once at the gardens for a return trip, so it’s important to arrange both ways. Hiring a car for half a day also allows you to visit other spots in the area (more below).
Getting to Aburi from Accra requires a steep climb up the mountainside, with plenty of tight turns. Driving in Ghana isn’t known for its calm energy, so if you tend to get motion sick, either ask the driver to be a bit safer or be sure to bring your medication. You won’t want to miss the stunning views along the way!
Check out these curated tours to make it a full day trip from Accra to Aburi:
Entrance Fees & Opening Hours of the Aburi Botanical Gardens
As of 2026, the price breakdown is as follows (cash only):
Ghanaian Adults: GHS 20
Ghanaian Students: GHS 3
Non-Ghanaian Adults: GHS 60 (~USD 5-6)
Non-Ghanaian Students/Volunteers: GHS 40 (just under USD 4)
In general, the Aburi Botanical Gardens are open to the public from 8:30am-5pm, 7 days a week.
With that said, morning hours tend to be cooler weather and fewer crowds, even more so during weekends when picnics, music, and activities tend to fill the grassy areas.
If you’re like me and prefer to decompress and bathe in the surrounding nature, prioritize an early visit from Accra.
In general, a self-planned trip to Aburi Botanical Gardens can cost between USD 10-40 (from Accra), depending on transportation, number of people traveling, snack and drink purchases onsite, etc.
What to Expect at Aburi Botanical Gardens (Highlights, Experience, and More)
If you’re looking for an escape from the intense heat and chaos of Accra, then a visit to Aburi is a must-add to your itinerary.
The Botanical Gardens provide a peaceful experience with far less crowds than other tourist locations and is popular with both expats and locals alike. On weekends, it’s not uncommon to see families making the winding drive up the hillside from the city below to enjoy the cool breeze and sit in the grass.
As you enter the park, you’ll immediately be mesmerized by the leading lines of the Royal Palm Tree Avenue. From here, the park is the perfect place to wander as paths are unmarked and the nature inviting for all levels of explorers.
Pay close attention, and you’ll spot the first-ever cacao plant to penetrate Ghana’s soil, a cash crop that has brought the country to the second-world-leading producer, and an old rusted military helicopter provides the perfect photo opportunity.
Where to Eat Near Aburi Botanical Gardens
Although not many options inside the park, several restaurants near the Aburi Botanical Gardens provide quality meals. A few options include:
Hillburi ($$): A more middle-of-the-road option with stunning views of Accra and the surrounding mountains. The perfect place for an afternoon cup of coffee to pause and watch the world go by.
Peduase Chophouse ($): A staple of the community with everything from traditional dishes to delicious shawarma and even breakfast options. This is the local experience done right, and on a budget.
Peduase Valley Resort ($$$): Tucked deeper into the lush mountains, Peduase Valley Resort is an upscale option that has multiple restaurants to choose from.
Personally, I always recommend Hillburi to visitors. Quality food, peaceful ambiance, and friendly staff. Consistency in all of the above is often a challenge in Ghana, but I’ve never walked away disappointed from a meal there.
Pro Tip: Try the Obama Burger, still on the menu as a nod to Former United States President Barack Obama from when he visited during his time in office back in 2009.
If you’re planning more Ghana travel, don’t miss my guides to:
Things to Do Near Aburi Botanical Gardens
Although the Botanical Gardens are the main attraction in Aburi, there’s still plenty of experiences nearby, including:
Adom Waterfalls: Located in Obosomase, 5 minutes from the gardens
Obaka/Oboadaka Waterfalls: Approximately a 20-minute drive from the gardens
Aburi Craft Village: Aburi is known for its wood-working prowess. Here you’ll find everything from wooden utensils to tables and jewelry. It’s calmer and less frequented than the Accra Arts Center, so you’ll experience less hawking and be able to move about at a slower pace on your own terms.
We-Ape Adventure Park: A 15-minute drive from the gardens, We-Ape is an adventurer’s paradise. Situated on 3.5 acres of rainforest land, the facility offers two zipline adventure courses, one suitable for family members of all ages and a more advanced course for those looking for a bit more adrenaline.
Travel Tips When Visiting Aburi Botanical Gardens
When visiting Aburi, it’s important to come prepared, as amenities are few and far between once you leave Accra behind. Here are my top packing tips when visiting the Botanical Gardens and the surrounding Aburi area:
Bring Cash: ATMS are not easily accessible, and the gardens are cash-only. Cellular network is often poor and unstable, so even if there is an option to pay by card, it’s not always possible.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: Visiting the Aburi Botanical Gardens is the perfect way to get your steps in and immerse yourself in nature. Bring the right footwear and come prepared for any add-on excursion you may wish to check out.
A Trustworthy Rain Jacket: It’s not uncommon, especially in rainy months, for storms to move through the mountains several times throughout the day, so it’s important to come prepared. I never stray too far away from my house in Ghana without packing my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket.
Daypack: A half-day trip to Aburi can easily turn into a full day with nearby attractions, so be sure to pack a bag with enough space to be prepared for any adventure that comes your way. The Cotopaxi CADA Dia 24L is the perfect size for everything I need, including camera gear.
Water Bottle: Drink vendors are available within the park grounds. Ghana still relies heavily on plastics (including, at times, plastic satchels for drinking water). Consider a filtering water bottle to ensure you’re getting more hydration and fewer toxins.
A Good Book or Journal: Whether relaxing into nature with a book or writing in a journal, the botanical gardens are the perfect place to reflect.
Is it Worth Visiting the Aburi Botanical Gardens?
Overall, yes, as one of the best nature spots near Accra, visiting Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana is a must-do for travelers looking to experience a quieter, greener side of the country.
The grounds are ideal for both nature lovers and photographers, and offer a more relaxing experience to decompress, a stark contrast from the hustle and bustle of city life.
FAQs About Aburi Botanical Gardens
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Yes—Aburi Botanical Gardens is one of the best day trips from Accra. It offers a peaceful escape from the city, cooler temperatures in the Akuapem Hills, and plenty of space to walk, relax, or take photos.
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Aburi Botanical Gardens is located about 1 hour from Accra, depending on traffic. The drive includes a scenic climb into the Akuapem Hills, with winding roads and great views along the way.
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The gardens are open daily from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Visiting early in the morning is recommended for cooler weather and fewer crowds.
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Yes, the gardens are easy to explore on your own. While local guides may be available at the entrance, they are optional, and most visitors choose to wander independently.
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You can reach Aburi by:
Uber/Bolt or taxi (most convenient)
Private driver (best for flexibility)
Tro-tro + taxi (budget option)
It’s recommended to arrange your return trip in advance, as transport options at the gardens can be limited.
I’m fortunate to live along the banks of the Volta River, but anytime I transit to Accra, I’ll always try to find time to pass through Aburi and spend an hour enjoying the fresh mountain air in the gardens.
It’s the perfect way to spend a slow afternoon; you won’t regret it.
Have you ever been to the Aburi Botanical Gardens before? Anything to add? Be sure to like, comment, and share and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Discover Tranquility at Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana. This small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region…
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana.
Owned by Jolinaiko Eco-Tours, this small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region.
Relax in a hammock and get lost in a good book, enjoy delicious food, or explore the village… there’s something for everyone.
Here’s everything you need to know about staying at this hidden gem in Liati Wote, Ghana.
Let me be the first to welcome you to Tagbo Falls Lodge!
Mount Aduadu above the lush forests of Ghana’s Volta Region
About the Area: Liati Wote and Ghana’s Volta Region
Tagbo Falls Lodge is situated on the edge of a picturesque village, Liati Wote. Nestled near the border with Togo in Ghana’s Volt Region, this part of the country is renowned for its rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.
Although less than 600 members, Liati Wote prides itself on its community-based tourism approach, warmly welcoming people from all over the world to their slice of paradise in the mountains.
At first, I’ll admit, I was a bit put off by the term “tourist village”, imagining the all-too-often haggling on the streetside, drummers and dancers dressing up to beat drums for eager ears, ultimately existing to please the tourists rather than educate.
Boy, I was wrong. Liati Wote is nothing but laid back, making it possible to coexist to whatever degree you wish during your stay. That’s hard to find a world full of overtourism and the opportunism that comes from it.
Take a few steps down the dirt road outside the entrance and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of Ghana’s highest peak, Mount Afadjato. Keep walking towards town and you’ll find your way to the trailhead to the stunning Tagbo Falls (be sure to bring a swimsuit).
Liati Wote isn’t just about nature, though. Wander around town and you’ll quickly spot waste bins all around, part of a plastic waste reduction initiative from the Stepping Stones of Africa Foundation.
More recently, the NGO established the Nuku Arts Center in town, offering a workspace for upcycling while providing locally handmade goods for purchase.
Are you sold yet? Whether you’re a solo traveler, backpacker, or nature enthusiast, Liati Wote is a must-visit spot on any Volta Region travel itinerary.
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How to get to Liati Wote, Ghana and Tagbo Falls Lodge
Getting to Tagbo Falls Lodge isn’t necessarily easy, but that’s part of the fun, right? From Accra, take a bus or drive to HoHoe, the largest city in the Volta Region. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared minibus (locally called “tro-tro”) to Liati Wote.
In the past, I’ve taken tro-tro from the Tema-Akosombo road to Golokwati, before hiring a motorbike to take me the final 45min to Liati Wote. This is the more adventurous way to arrive, but there’s nothing quite like cruising down dirt roads in the fresh mountain air.
Estimated travel time from Accra: 5–6 hours
From Hohoe to Liati Wote: ~40min by road
Pro tip: Wherever you’re coming from, do yourself a favor and plan to take a private taxi. It eliminates stress, and Ghana’s tro-tro system has a less-than-stellar safety record. Worry less about how to get there, and more about what you’ll do once you reach the lodge!
Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Cost of Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge
Tagbo Falls Lodge offers a range of accommodations that suit every budget, making it ideal for families and solo travelers, alike. Here is the current list of rooms available, as of 2025:
Banana Room (1 queen bed, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Orange Room (2 single beds, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Papaya Room R3 (2 single beds, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Papaya Room R4 (1 queen bed, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Pineapple Room (1 double bed, 2 single beds, private bathroom): 500/650* GHS/night (USD 32/42)
Chalet R6 (1 double bed, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R7 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R8 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
The asterisk is the price for using solar-powered air conditioning. If you can survive off fans, then you’ll pay the lower rate.
Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge does not include breakfast, so that’s important to factor in. With that said, the food here is some of the best I’ve had at any eco-lodge in Ghana. It will be well worth the nominal cost, I promise.
Speaking from experience, it’s important to plan ahead and book early. Weekends fill up quickly, so if you need more flexibility it’s best to try to visit during the week and off-holiday periods.
Ready to book? Contact them directly via WhatsApp at +233 54 955 8307 for any enquiries.
Morning sunrise in Liati Wote, Ghana
What to expect during your stay at Tagbo Falls Lodge
Tagbo Falls Lodge makes it easy to unplug and reconnect with nature. Upon arrival to the beautiful grounds, you’ll meet the friendly staff, get situated in your room, and immediately start to feel any stress melt away.
Everything about the lodge is cultivated to slow down and step back. If you need guidance they’re there to help, but if you need space, no one will bug you. I have met some wonderful people and have heard some incredible stories from those working there, though, so take time to interact and get to know them (especially Madam Philomina, who cooks all of the delicious meals).
In the middle of the lodge is the communal lounge where meals are served, complete with a bar stocked with local drinks. My personal favorites are the hibiscus juice and Tale Beer’s Hibiscus IPA… I guess you can see a trend there, huh?
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There’s limited Wi-Fi (very limited), so bring a good book and be ready to slow down. The data network is also virtually nonexistent except for certain spots in the village, which is my favorite aspect (good luck getting in touch, work colleagues).
If you’re lucky enough to be there as a storm hits, grab a drink and head for the viewing platform and the front of the property to watch clouds and lightning roll in through the mountains surrounding Liati Wote.
One of the best parts of staying at Tagbo Falls Lodge that I haven’t touched on is the food. This is some of the best and most affordable food I’ve had in Ghana and if I find myself within an hour’s drive, I always make it a point to stop by for lunch.
Madam Philomina and her team do a fantastic job, offering both local and continental dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options. Personal favorites include the baobab smoothie (baobab is a superfood native to Northern Ghana but lesser known), coconut curry rice (85 GHS/USD 5.50), and the homemade bread and garlic butter (40 GHS/USD 3).
This is one of the few places you can taste the passion and effort that goes into making the food. I will forever be a Philomina fan – be sure to ask about her duty as Queen Mother of Kpando, a small village on the bank of Lake Volta!
Whether it’s the end of a day full of relaxation or adventure, fall asleep with a happy stomach to the sound of crickets and rushing water and wake up to misty mountain views and crisp, clean air (a rarity in Ghana).
Tagbo Falls Lodge is a top eco-lodge in the country when it comes to its staff, cost, and location, and is a must-include for any Ghana itinerary.
It’s not hard to relax in the gardens of Tagbo Falls Lodge
Must-do attractions nearby
Although it’s easy to lose track of time and relax at Tagbo Falls Lodge, it also serves as the perfect home base for many other Volta Region activities. Here's what you can do nearby:
Hike to Tagbo Falls
The trail to Tagbo Falls is scenic and moderately easy, with a short 45-minute walk through the forest. The waterfall itself is spectacular—cascading into a clear pool that’s perfect for a refreshing dip.
Climb Mount Afadjato
Up for a challenge? Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s highest peak. It’s a steep but rewarding 1–2 hour hike, offering panoramic views over the Volta highlands and into neighboring Togo.
Visit Amedzofe, Ghana’s Highest Elevated Settlement
Just an hour’s drive away, Amedzofe is another eco-tourism paradise. Walk to the top of Mount Gemi for unparalleled views across the valley below or stroll along the canopy walkway through the forest.
Swim in West Africa’s Tallest Waterfall
Pick a moto and ride 40 minutes north along stunning mountain landscapes before arriving at the Wli tourist center. Follow a short, easily accessible trail, and feel the power of Wli Falls, one of Ghana’s top waterfall hikes.
Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana’s best waterfall hikes in the Volta Region
If the above doesn’t sell you on a visit to Tagbo Falls Lodge, then it’s possible you’re on the wrong blog! Just kidding (sort of).
In all seriousness, there are few places I’ve visited throughout my travels in Africa that are as authentic and wholesome as this. It’s time to book that trip for the real Ghana experience.
Tagbo Falls Lodge, Liati Wote, Ghana—add it to your travel list.
Have you visited Ghana’s Volta Region before? Share your experiences in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Hiking Ghana's Tallest Mountain
If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region. When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven…
Note: All information below is accurate as of April 2025
If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region.
When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven.
Standing at 885 meters (2,904 feet), Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s tallest mountain and offers stunning views of surrounding villages, verdant forests, and even neighboring Togo.
Even more, it’s located in a small, peaceful village with plenty of other trails and waterfalls to explore, including my favorite place to stay: Tagbo Falls Lodge.
Fancy a bit of outdoor adventure on your trip to Ghana? Mount Afadjato is for you!
The view of the Volta Region while hiking Mount Afadjato in Ghana
History and meaning of Mount Afadjato
Mount Afadjato derives its name from the Ewe word “Avadzeto,” meaning “at war with the bush.”
As the Ewe tribe settled here from Togo, they were prone to attacks from wild animals. The village revolted, pushing them back into the mountains but as they reached the forest, they were overcome by plants making them itch.
Afadja, Afadjato, it’s all the same! Another way to break it down in the Ewe language: ‘Afar’ means ‘war’, ‘dja’ means ‘plant’, and ‘to’ means ‘mountain.
Despite the name and history, I’m happy to report that the itching plants have since been tamed and it is very safe to hike the trails (but consider long pants, just in case)!
The area remains a symbol of pride for the Ewe people, as Mount Afadja is believed to house the spirits of their ancestors who look over and protect the surrounding communities.
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Location and how to get to Mount Afadjato
Nestled in the mountains that border Togo, the trailhead is located in the small village of Liati Wote in Ghana’s Volta Region. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to get to Mount Afadjato:
By Car:
From Accra, take the Accra–Hohoe road and follow signs to Liati Wote. The roads are well-maintained (for the most part), making the drive smooth and scenic as you wind through the mountains. The drive should take ~6 hours.
By Public Transport:
Buses and shared taxis from Accra to Hohoe are affordable. From Hohoe, hire a taxi or take a shared ride to Liati Wote. Another option is to take a tro-tro to Golokwati, but this often requires 2-3 changes in vehicles along the way.
From Nearby Attractions:
If you’re already exploring Wli Waterfalls or Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, Liati Wote is just a short drive away (20-40 min depending on where you’re coming from).
If you don’t want to plan your own transportation, consider one of these pre-arranged tours from Get Your Guide. They depart Accra and sort travel, food, and accommodations along the way!
Pro Tip: Whenever I can, I try to travel around Ghana on Sundays. Everyone is in church and this means much less traffic and dangers on the road – and I get to where I’m going quicker! I have my own car, but your safest option is to either rent or hire a reliable taxi. Although cheap, tro-tros (Ghana’s public transportation) are prone to breakdowns and accidents.
Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana’s Volta Region
Entrance fees & costs
Liati Wote markets itself as a tourist village (don’t worry, I was initially turned off by this as well, but it’s not what we’re used to when we see that tagline).
There are plenty of tours and options available around town, including multi-day hiking, local gin tours, and surrounding waterfalls, but be warned that each one requires a guide (this is used as a means to boost the local economy).
You can find a guide and look at the options available by checking in at the Liati Wote Toursim Office upon arrival, located at the base of Mount Afadja on the main road of town and typically open 8am, daily.
The tourism office accepts cash only, so come prepared as there are no ATMs within a one hour radius.
Hiking only Mount Afadjato requires a modest fee:
Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)
Non-Ghanaians: 50 GHS (USD 3)
You can add on and combine with a trip to Tagbo Falls (GHS 40/USD 2.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 80/USD 5 for non Ghanaians), or continue past Mount Afadjato to Mount Aduadu (GHS 70/USD 4.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 100/USD 6.50 for non-Ghanaians).
A Note on Guide Fees: Guides for hiking Mount Afadjato and surrounding tours don’t get paid from trail fees, so come prepared to tip them for their service to support their income. For this hike, GHS 50-100 is reasonable (USD 3-6).
The trail fees do, however, contribute to maintaining the paths and supporting local community projects, such as their recycling initiative – something that is unique to this village!
Pro Tip: There are many guides and not many visitors, meaning it’s important to find one of quality. The only one I’ll use is Faith (+233 55 083 0914). I will meet him at the reception office, pay the entrance fee, give him a tip, and often he’ll let me take myself on the trail!
What to Expect: Hiking Mount Afadjato
Although Mount Afadjato is considered a popular tourist destination in Ghana, let me be direct with you: It’s not for everyone. The trail starts on a flat path, but quickly becomes a leg burner, what feels like a perpetual stair climber machine.
Most people will tell you it takes, on average, around 2 hours round trip, which I found to be accurate, but it was by no means easy. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water and fuel.
Along the way you’ll come across convenient rest stops with scenic views, offering the perfect spot to recharge your legs and observe surrounding wildlife.
Did you know that Ghana is home to over 860 species for butterflies? Don’t worry, I didn’t before moving here, but spotting them is one of my favorite parts of spending time in the Volta Region!
Finally, after 45min-1 hour you’ll reach the peak and soak up the sweeping views across Lake Volta, neighboring Togo, and Liati Wote below. You may even spot Togolese coffee farmers wandering the foohills!
The Volta Region is where both Kawa Moka and Jamestown, two of Ghana’s top coffee companies, produce their beans.
For the most part, the trail is well preserved and shorts and t-shirt will suffice, but if you’re planning to go beyond the peak to nearby Mount Aduadu as I did, be sure to wear long pants.
Reaching this secondary mountain requires bushwhacking lesser-frequented pathways and it’s not uncommon to come across snakes and biting ants.
View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato
Nearby attractions
Tagbo Falls:
Located near Mount Afadjato, this tranquil waterfall is an excellent spot to cool off after your hike. I’d recommend climbing Afadja in the morning, and then continuing on (for an additional trail fee) to Tagbo Falls. It’s a flat, short, 40min hike and the trailheads start from the same location! It’s one on my favorite places to spend an afternoon swimming.
Wli Waterfalls:
Ghana’s highest and most famous waterfall is just a short drive away (20min) and offers another fantastic nature experience. Similar to Tagbo, this short trail is accessible to everyone and cooling off in the pool under the cascading water is a spiritual experience.
Amedzofe Village:
Amedzofe is Ghana’s highest-elevated settlement, originally established by the Germans during colonial times. The area offers cooler weather, more waterfalls, a better (and less frequented) canopy walk than Kakum National Park, and a small climb to the cross on top of Mt. Gemi. If coming from Ho, you’ll pass the turnoff for Amedzofe along the way (less than 1 hour from Liati Wote).
Best time to hike Mount Afadjato
The Harmattan, or dry season, (November to April) is the best time for hiking, as the trails are less muddy. However, the dust being blown from the Sahara can significantly reduce visibility (although makes for beautiful, glowing sunrise).
The rainy season (May to October) brings lush greenery, making the scenery even more vibrant, but the steep trail can get slippery, so be sure to wear proper footwear and plan accordingly.
Finally, beat the heat and hike Mount Afadjato in the morning. If arranged ahead of time, your guide can meet you at the tourist office before sunrise and you can start on the trail before fighting the humidity.
Top packing tips for your hike to Mount Afadjato
Shoes are essential. Especially if planning to visit during rainy season. The trail is steep and can quickly become slippery, so it’s safest to have good treads.
Sunscreen and insect repellent. The trail itself traverses dense forest, and the peak is completely exposed so you’ll have to plan for all elements. After years of sweating off my sunscreen in the humidity, I’ve finally switched over to using a stick instead and it’s been a gamechanger!
A good camera. The top of Mount Afadjato provides some of the most stunning views in the area. If you’re into landscape photography, this is the place to come. Personally, my Canon 80d has been my best travel companion over the years.
A quality dry bag. Hiking in West Africa can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. I’ll always bring my Marchway dry bag to protect my valuables.
Don’t forget a quick-dry towel. Whether caught in the rains or planning to add on a visit to Tagbo Falls, a lightweight towel is the perfect item to add to your pack.
Water and Fuel. Regardless of season or time of day, you’ll work hard to get to the top of Mount Afadjato. Come prepared with plenty of water and snacks. There aren’t many options available in town, but you can always also your guide where to pick up supplies.
A reliable SIM card. Traveling outside of Accra is never easy and it pays to have a reliable in-country SIM. Recently, I’ve been using Airalo on my travels and, although I enjoy collects SIM cards, they take away the stress of losing it or always looking for a pin to open the port!
A view into the valley below, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato
Standing on top of Ghana’s tallest mountain at sunrise is a scene I won’t soon forget. Accra is great, but experiencing the breathtaking nature in the Volta Region is a must during any visit to Ghana, and Liati Wote is the perfect place to base.
Explore, rest, and walk away refreshed from your time in these stunning mountains.
Have you conquered Mount Afadjato or plan to visit? Share your experience in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!
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A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls…
Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.
If you haven’t caught on yet, I’m a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!
Ghana’s Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo
Know Before You Go: Wli Waterfalls Background
Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.
Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. You’ll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.
So, now that you’re hooked, when’s the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.
Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.
In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but you’ll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, I’d choose the rainy season, but it’s a great place to spend an afternoon either way.
Finally, it’s important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).
Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!
Standing beneath Ghana’s Wli Waterfalls
How to get to Wli Waterfalls
Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.
To get here…
By Car: From Accra, it’s about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).
By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.
Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.
Entrance fees & costs
For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.
Entry Fee (Lower Falls):
Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)
Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)
Upper Falls Guided Hikes:
Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)
Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)
Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.
Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghana’s economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.
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What to expact at Wli Falls
Lower Falls
A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghana’s lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. You’ll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.
You’ll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch them flying off the rocks
Upper Falls
For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.
Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.
Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, you’ll be on your way back out!
Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana
Nearby places to visit
The Volta Region is full of amazing nature and experiences, so make your trip even more memorable by exploring more near Wli Waterfalls:
Amedzofe Canopy Walk:
A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where you’ll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.
Mount Afadja (Afadjato):
Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.
Tagbo Falls:
Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghana’s nature.
What to bring
Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.
Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you don’t plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghana’s heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.
Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if there’s a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.
Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!
A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africa’s tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.
A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a trip—it’s an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether you’re splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, you’ll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.
Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana
The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area….
Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghana’s economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.
Ten years. That’s the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and I’ll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.
The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.
Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.
Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.
View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato
How to get to Tagbo Falls
Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:
From Accra:
It’s about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accra’s Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.
Through Golokwati:
An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.
Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset
Hiking to Tagbo Falls & what to expect
Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means it’s important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.
The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless it’s rainy season.
The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.
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Here’s a breakdown of what to plan for:
Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where you’ll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife – the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. It’s tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someone’s livelihood and it’s best to leave the trail as you found it.
Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, you’ll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.
The Waterfall: Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. There’s a sign post stating “No Swimming” but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that don’t know how to swim from trying.
Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided. That said, it’s also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.
The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.
The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot
Packing tips & tricks for Tagbo Falls
Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.
Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.
Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.
Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. It’s recommended to pack in everything you think you’ll need.
Camera: The scenery is stunning, and you’ll want to capture the moment!
Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. It’s also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway — I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!
Best time to visit Tagbo Falls
The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.
It’s hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls
Places to stay near Tagbo Falls
While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:
Wli Waterfalls Lodge:
Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.
Afadjato Guesthouse:
This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.
Tagbo Falls Lodge:
This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philomina’s stove-top bread with garlic butter!
Nearby Attractions
Mount Afadjato:
If you’re feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? It’s a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. There’s nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.
Wli Falls:
Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. It’s the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.
Amedzofe Canopy Walk:
About an hour’s drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghana’s highest elevated settlement. Here you’ll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. It’s definitely a spot worth checking out!
The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls
It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural landscapes.
Whether you’re a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.
So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!
In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!
Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!
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