reflection Chris Toone reflection Chris Toone

Embracing Adversity Through Travel: How a trip to Ghana changed my outlook on life

Through all of my adventures over the years I've learned plenty of lessons. One that has stuck with me is just how much travel has changed the way I think and embrace challenges on a day-to-day basis. Here's a story about a trip to Ghana that tested my patience, but proved important to my growth.

The wing of an airplane as seen from the window seat of a plane with the sun setting in the background and lighting the sky orange and yellow

Traveling isnโ€™t always comfortable, in fact, itโ€™s the moments in which I feel too comfortable that I begin to question what Iโ€™m doing.

Why is that? Why do I actively seek to put myself in those challenging situations?

For as much thought as I've put towards solving this internal conundrum, I still don't have an answer.

With that being said, one thing I have come to learn throughout all of my adventures is that when it feels as though the universe is relentlessly breaking me down, it may actually be working to build me up.

Itโ€™s certainly a not foolproof theory, but more times than not it seems to be the case.

As I reflect back on the countless times Iโ€™ve faced this lesson over the years, one particular experience comes to mind.

Hereโ€™s a short story about a trip to Ghana that was full of mishaps and close calls, but ultimately forced me to embrace the adversity and ultimately feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude. Enjoy!


Located just outside of the historical city of Cape Coast lies Kakum. A national park of Ghana that encompasses nearly 150 square miles of protected forest, the famed canopy walkway offers visitors the chance to meander through the treetops across a series of swinging bridges.

It was only natural that when two new volunteers, Heather and Courtney, came to Ghana to help with The Senase Project for the first time, a visit to Kakum National Park was at the top of our to-do listโ€ฆ but we almost didnโ€™t make it.

The morning started off like any other: a casual breakfast of eggs and white bread accompanied by a warm cup of Milo, Yoo-hoo chocolate milkโ€™s Ghanaian sibling, before packing up and heading out.

After a quick taxi ride through the bustling streets of Accra, the three of us were dropped off on the side of the highway at Kaneshie Station. This is where weโ€™d find a tro-tro to take us to Cape Coast.

If youโ€™re not familiar with the various modes of transportation in Ghana, tro-tros are essentially private vans that operate as shared taxis, traveling fixed routes between towns and all around the major cities.

Some are in good shape while others you canโ€™t help but look at and question the number of remaining trips before the wheels inevitably fall off.

Once obtaining a ticket, itโ€™s best to send up a quick prayer and hope for a window seat so the breeze can relieve the inevitable sauna-like environment that comes with passengers squeezing together, some sharing seats or commandeering laps.

It might sound miserable to those who havenโ€™t experienced one, but it makes me smile just thinking about it.

Tro-tro packed to the brim in Accra, Ghana carries luggage on the roof, including a goat

Tro-tro packed to the brim in Accra, Ghana

The station itself was filled with a cacophony of sounds and a confusing aroma, somewhere along the spectrum of sewage and lukewarm seafood.

Hawkers worked the pathways, trying their best to sell dried fish and bofrot, Ghanaโ€™s version of a donut, while young teenagers shouted destinations from the open windows of the vans.

It seemed as though we might struggle to find our way amidst the madness, but luckily thereโ€™s an important caveat that accompanies this mode of travel: the drivers wonโ€™t depart until all of the seats are full.

So, when a group of wide-eyed and clueless foreigners roll up, someone will inevitably ask for a destination and provide a personal escort to their friendโ€™s van.

After what felt like an hour of waiting around, the driver and his team had sold enough tickets. The three of us piled into the back seat, carefully ducking under the exposed metal of the ceiling as we shuffled over the bags of produce that filled the aisle.

Off we went.


Interested in learning about how I first caught the travel bug? Check out this post:


The drive between Accra and Cape Coast typically takes less than 3 hours and although we had lost some time waiting for the tro-tro to fill up with passengers, we were still optimistic for the day ahead. After all, we were cruising the open road and catching views of the Gulf of Guinea as we wentโ€ฆ nothing could bring us down!

That is until we arrived at a police barricade.

These checkpoints are a routine part of life in Ghana; simply a way for the police to patrol traffic. The driver rolled down the window and sheepishly handed over the required documents.

The officers paused and looked at one another, took a second glance at the provided papers, and then began to speak.

It was clear that something was off.

Our once vivacious driver appeared to curl up like a puppy, tail between his legs and all. We continued to sit in silence until a fellow passenger turned around and informed us that the driver has been caught using a fraudulent license.

โ€œWell, thatโ€™s a new one,โ€ I thought to myself.

I was eager to see how this was going to play out. Would the driver be arrested? Would the vehicle be seized? Would all of us be left stranded on the side of the road? My imagination was running wild.

No, none of that happened. Simply a slap on the wrist, an order to obtain a legitimate license, and a modest bribe.

Back to the open road, we went, laughing it off as a story to tell our friends and unaware that it was just the beginning of what the day had in store.

All of a sudden we heard a massive โ€œpopโ€ immediately followed by the sound of metal dragging along the asphalt.

The three of us simultaneously lifted our feet out of sheer confusion and panic, unsure of if the floor was giving way. It wouldnโ€™t have been the first time a tro-tro had bottomed out and been stripped to the bones.

Thankfully it wasnโ€™t the floor, but the noise crescendoed to a point of no return and the driver was forced to gently guide the van to the side of the road, thankfully finding what appeared to be a makeshift garage along the way.

One by one we all exited, our fellow passengers seemingly annoyed but ultimately unsurprised by this turn of events.

The driver, with the help of his friends, rolled the van onto a set of cinder blocks and disappeared for a moment before resurfacing with a busted muffler. Iโ€™m no car expert by any means, but it surely seemed un-reparable.

I couldnโ€™t believe our luck. It felt as though that was the end of the line for us, our day foiled by a piece of fraudulent paper and faulty van. As disappointing as that was to accept, we couldnโ€™t help but chuckle.

There we stood, huddled together under a metal awning on the side of the road in Ghana, completely at the mercy of the universe.

A roadside mechanic in Ghana tries to fix a broken down tro-tro while travelers are stranded

Stranded in Ghana

Without missing a beat, the driver obtained a hammer, a blowtorch, and went to work.

The sound was deafening as he gave it his all, strategically heating the muffler and using the hammer to approximate the edges before welding it back together.

Over an hour later he was done, had re-attached it to the van, and was eagerly encouraging everyone to pile back in. We obliged, silently questioning the integrity of the muffler that had been given a new lease on life.

It couldnโ€™t have been more than ten minutes of driving before we heard another โ€œpopโ€ and a sense of defeat quickly replaced the panic and confusion we had felt the first time.

The driver frantically pulled out his phone, sensing the looming mutiny from his customers if he attempted to fix the muffler again. โ€œOk, wait here. Another person will come to pick you up,โ€ he said. Sure enough, a white van appeared.

After a brief deliberation as to whether or not we should call it quits and retreat back to Accra, we collectively decided to press on. What else could possibly happen?

Much to our relief, we finally reached Cape Coast and on top of that, we were all still in one piece!

The sense of accomplishment was quickly forgotten as we approached the taxi stand and asked for a ride to Kakum National Park.

โ€œAre you sure? Itโ€™s nearly closing time,โ€ a driver replied.

We glanced down at our watches and, to our disbelief, it was nearly 3:00 pm. With the park closing at 4:00 pm, it seemed as though all hope was lost.

Sensing our disappointment, the driver opened his door.

โ€œGo ahead, get in. I will try my bestโ€ he exclaimed.

The road from Cape Coast to Kakum is technically paved, but I use that term loosely as the concentration of potholes is more than anywhere else Iโ€™ve been in the world. Hence our unofficial petition to name it Pothole Alley.

Up, down, left, right. The driver clearly had years of experience navigating this route as he seamlessly zig-zagged his way forward, shaving off minutes with each kilometer traveled. We tried to remain positive, but thatโ€™s always easier said than done.

Our hearts sank as we pulled into the entrance of the park. A truck full of guards was on its way out and that meant they had closed for the day. It seemed as though all the trouble we had endured was for nothing.

Without a second thought, our taxi driver rolled down his window and began pleading our case. We sat there silently crossing our fingers. A guard then hopped out of the bed of the truck and squeezed into the backseat with Heather and Courtney. He was willing to reopen the canopy walk for an extra fee and subsequently restored our faith by doing so!

The three of us silently hiked through the forest, eagerly listening to our guide identify various species of flowers and trees along the way. Once at the top, we carefully stepped out onto the first bridge, a single plank of wood suspended 30m above the ground.

Chris Toone walks across the famous canopy walkway inside of Kakum National Park in Ghana

Kakum National Park, Ghana

It was beautifully silent as we made our way across and I couldnโ€™t help but feel grateful for the journey that had brought us there.

Despite the frustrations, if we hadnโ€™t been shuttled to that specific tro-tro, with that particular driver, on that precise morning, we would not have been there in that moment, soaking up the serenity.

The sun began to set and it was time to go.

We made our way back down the trail, gleefully smiling in disbelief and appreciation as to how quickly our luck had turned around. Somehow we had secured a private hike through one of the most popular tourist spots in all of Ghana, a feat that Iโ€™m unlikely to ever experience again.

So, whatโ€™s the lesson here?

Itโ€™s not that we should avoid traveling via tro-tros at all costs, nor is it that we should roll over at the first sign of trouble. Thereโ€™s something bigger at play here and when I find the words to express it, Iโ€™ll be sure to let you know.

In the meantime, Iโ€™ll leave you with this: Donโ€™t shy away from the frustrations of traveling.

Instead, as hard as it may seem, challenge yourself to embrace them. After all, you never know what the universe has in store.

The beautiful feeling of complete fulfillment amidst intense exhaustion is the reason why I travel. It helps me grow, it stimulates learning, and itโ€™s why Iโ€™ll always advocate for others to get out and experience the world as well.



Thanks for following along! Have any lessons youโ€™ve learned abroad of your own ? Feel free to share in the comments below!

As always, stay safe & happy travels.


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resource, food and drink, Europe Chris Toone resource, food and drink, Europe Chris Toone

Mulled Wine: Everything you need to know to bring the holiday cheer

Mulled wine has been around for ages, but it hasn't always been synonymous with Christmas. Here's everything you need to know about this popular holiday drink, including a recipe to make it yourself. Cheers!

A glass of mulled wine is held in the foreground, enjoyed with a view of the Salzburg Christmas Market

Itโ€™s official: winter is here.

That means itโ€™s time for gingerbread cookies, long shopping lines, and cozying up next to the fireplaceโ€ฆ oh, and mulled wine!

If youโ€™ve wandered the Christmas markets throughout Europe during the holidays, then you surely know what Iโ€™m talking about. Itโ€™s the gold-standard of holiday cheer these days and has carved out a slice of European Christmas culture alongside gift-giving and leaving cookies and milk for Santa.

For those of you that have no idea what Iโ€™m referring to, allow me the privilege of introducing you to my favorite holiday alcoholic drink and a sure-fire way to tolerate the in-laws.

Hereโ€™s everything you need to know about mulled wine!

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MULLED WINE

Thought to have originated as far back as the 2nd century, mulled wine was created by the Romans as a way to fight off the cold winters. As they expanded their empire throughout Europe, so too did their love for this warm drink.

Popularity continued to grow during the middle ages and the recipe expanded. Europeans began mixing the wine with various herbs and flowers as a way to not only stay warm during long winters but also provide a natural boost to their immune systems.

Itโ€™s worth noting that sources of wine were limited back in those days, so itโ€™s likely that the spices had a second and, some may argue more important, function: making the drink more palatable.

As is the case with all great fads, the desire for mulled wine faded over time. It wasnโ€™t until the 1890s when the drink became associated with Christmas and popularity skyrocketed.

Suddenly merchants across Europe began developing their unique recipes to share within their towns and, once distributing their product with festive bottles, mulled wineโ€™s resurgence was in full effect and has continued to spread like wildfire beyond Europeโ€™s borders.

A rainy day at the Christmas Market in Salzburg, Austria as visitors pass by with umbrellas under the Christmas tree

Christmas Market in Salzburg, Austria

WHY IT MATTERS

It matters because mulled wineโ€™s popularity is stronger than ever. Visit any Christmas market in the world and youโ€™ll surely notice a crowd gathered around a table, sipping on a mug and laughing the night away. Itโ€™s no longer a matter of if youโ€™ll ever have the chance to try this beautiful blend of wine, fruit, and spices, rather when you will do so.

I was fortunate enough to spend a Christmas over in Austria, meandering between markets and sampling the various recipes as I went.

Regardless of location, whether a large city such as Innsbruck or a smaller town, mulled wine (along with mulled cider, its holiday-sibling) was the staple of each celebration.

For foreigners such as myself, it served as a way to stay warm while aimlessly wandering between the artisan stalls, searching for the perfect gift to bring home, but for the locals, it was much more.

It served as an after-work event, a gathering of neighbors, and a place for family reunions. The drink has quickly become synonymous with good times and holiday cheer.

As much as I enjoyed being able to shop through the expansive markets, I much preferred the smaller villages where the events were centered around the social aspect and nothing more. Simply walk to the town square, grab a mug of mulled wine, snack on a brat, and chat with friends. It was a great way to experience the local Christmas culture!

A traveler sips a warm mug of mulled wine in the streets of Innsbruck, Austria

Christmas Market - Innsbruck, Austria

How to Make Your Own

Several different variations exist as the popularity has grown over the years but, traditionally speaking, mulled wine is made using red wine.

Mulled Wine Recipe - Toone's Travels

INGREDIENTS:

1 bottle of red wine - 750ml (merlot or cab sauv typically works best)

1 orange - sliced into rounds (plus more for garnish)

6 whole cloves

3 cinnamon sticks (plus more for garnish)

3 star anise

1/4 cup honey

1/2 cup brandy (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

  1. Over medium heat, combine all ingredients into a saucepan

  2. Bring to a simmer (not boil) and reduce heat to low. Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes

  3. Once finished, strain the liquid

  4. Serve warm and garnish with an orange slice and cinnamon sticks

  5. Enjoy and go back for more!

Itโ€™s that simple! Whip yourself up a batch at your next family gathering, enjoy the company of others, and bring a slice of European history into your home this holiday season. Bottoms up!

Do you have a story from a Christmas market around the world? Have you created your own unique mulled wine recipe? Let me know in the comments below! Iโ€™d love to hear about it.

As always, stay safe & happy travels.


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7 Apps That Will Change The Way You Travel

From offline maps to easy translations and guided walks, check out these 7 apps that I guarantee will elevate your travel game!

A wing of an airplane sits with the sunset from the window seat of a plane in the background. This is a feature image for a blog post about using apps while traveling

Please note: This post was updated as of December 2023

Itโ€™s not as if smartphones invented travel, however, they have drastically changed the way in which we go about wandering the world. From booking itineraries to audio guides and even foreign communication, itโ€™s entirely possible that everything you need - and even what you donโ€™t need - can be done from the palm of your hand.

Although Iโ€™m not in any way, shape, or form suggesting that travelers should rely solely on their mobile device, there are a few apps floating around that help to enhance the travel experience, rather than control it. Hereโ€™s some 5-star advice from your favorite 3-star travel blogger!

Skip to app:

AllTrails

Duolingo

Google Translate

Maps.me

Lonely Planet Guides

PackPoint

TripLingo

Yelp

* Note to readers: This is NOT a sponsored post. All opinions are my own.

1. ALLTRAILS

In short, AllTrails utilizes a database of over 100,000 hikes to provide users with everything needed in order to get out and hit the trails.

I constantly find myself on the app while at home, scrolling through hikes like itโ€™s Instagram (but much more productive, of course), however, it has also proved invaluable while traveling abroad and I am a huge fan of what it has to offer.

Most recently, AllTrails became my best friend while exploring Panama. Iโ€™m all for โ€œgetting lostโ€ in the jungle, but I certainly felt a lot more comfortable being able to track my little blue dot along with the interactive trail maps.

Sign up is free so if you plan to explore the great outdoors during your travels, this is a must-have resource!

Keep in mind that the database is built from user interaction, so although a rarity, information can sometimes be slightly inaccurate or minimal.

Be sure to pay it forward and review your own adventures so others can have a great experience as well!

Apple users get it here.

Android users get it here.

AllTrails features including a trail overview, explore map, and interactive tracking

2. DUOLINGO

Although Duolingo touts itself as โ€œthe worldโ€™s best way to learn a language,โ€ some people swear by it while others despise it, as is the case with most things I suppose.

When beginning a new language, youโ€™ll find that the lessons are built for long term language comprehension through a guided curriculum, however, Iโ€™ve found it to have short term value as well.

The app includes 35 languages for English speakers, including the likes of Klingon and High Valyrian if youโ€™re really looking to impress a date. Track me down on a transatlantic flight and you can surely bet Iโ€™ll be studying up on whatever language Iโ€™ll be greeted with when the wheels touch down.

At the very least, the lessons have significantly helped me to identify useful words, recognize key conversational phrases, and more.

Learn the basics with Duolingo and then put the rest of the puzzle together during your travels!

Apple users get it here.

Android users get it here.

3. GOOGLE TRANSLATE

Do you get frustrated when you canโ€™t read a menu? What about when youโ€™re not sure if a building is a restaurant or a day spa?

Itโ€™s ok. Weโ€™ve all been there. Thatโ€™s where Google Translate comes in handy!

The app has gone through some significant transformations in the past few years and now allows users to translate in a few different ways: text, instant camera (just point your camera and read), photos (the app will scan a photo and translate accordingly), or even conversations on the fly.

No more trying to type out what it says on the bathroom door when youโ€™ve really got to go; just point your camera and get down to business!

Donโ€™t get me wrong, playing charades and trying to communicate in a foreign culture is one of my favorite things I get to do while traveling, but sometimes you just need help and thatโ€™s where Google Translate quickly becomes a saving grace whether youโ€™re lost or trying to console a fellow hangry traveler.

Apple users get it here.

Android users get it here.

4. MAPS.ME

Shortly after booking a rental car in South Korea, I realized that I had no idea how to get from point A to point B. โ€œAh, no problem,โ€ I thought, โ€œthatโ€™s what Google Maps is for.โ€ As it turns out, Google Maps doesnโ€™t work in South Korea, so whatโ€™s a guy supposed to do?

Maps.me turned out to be an incredible alternative, providing comprehensive offline maps and driving directions as well as hiking trails, bike paths, and even metro maps.

The app also includes an offline search feature, making it easy to find transportation hubs, ATMs, hotels, or anything else you may need!

As useful as that all is, the most important feature may very well be the inclusion of speed camera locations. After all, nothing ruins a vacation quite like a speeding ticket!

In recent years the Maps.me has expanded its services, now offering hotel searches via integration with booking.com and even the ability to purchase tours with local guides.

This is definitely the way to go when you need maps for traveling! Just be aware that you need to download each individual country onto your phone, so if youโ€™re heading to Germany and planning a road trip to Austria, be sure to download both ahead of time before you find yourself lost in the hills, although I hear theyโ€™re alive with the sound of music!

Apple users get it here

Android users get it here

Screenshots from Maps.me

5. LONLEY PLANET GUIDES

Lonely Planet isnโ€™t exactly an โ€œoff the beaten path,โ€ however, the Guides app offers some great functions that are worth exploring.

The collection of over 8,000 cities around the world includes offline maps as well as curated advice from local experts. It also integrates seamlessly with Lonely Planetโ€™s TripApp which is a way for users to share photos and stories from their adventures.

One of the most useful features is the ability to get individualized advice on what to explore based on your budget. Simply plug in your restrictions and voilร ! The app will take care of the rest.

The one downside is that unlimited access comes at a cost: $4.99 for one month, $21.99 for 6 months, or $39.99 for 1 year.

Is it worth the price? Only you can decide, but itโ€™s certainly something to consider.

As of February 2022 Guides by Lonely Planet is no longer updated. The app can still be used, but development has ceased.

6. PACKPOINT

Are you the type of person that leaves packing to the last second? Welcome to the club.

My normal strategy is to shove a random collection of clothes into a duffle bag the night before a flight and hope for the best, all the while telling myself it โ€œadds to the adventure.โ€

PackPoint is changing the game, mainly because it takes all of the thinking out of the packing process.

The app works to create a custom list based on a multitude of factors including gender, destination, travel dates, duration, and even type of travel (beach, adventure, etc). It goes as far as to check the forecast ahead of time to accurately determine what needs to fill your suitcase.

From there, users can modify number of items and finalize the list on their ownโ€ฆ itโ€™s as simple as that!

Basic access is free, while premium costs $2.99. Take the stress out of packing and give it a whirlโ€ฆ or donโ€™t. I completely understand the thrill of playing โ€œwhatโ€™s in my bagโ€ when arriving in a new country!

Apple users get it here

Android users get it here๏ปฟ

7. TRIPLINGO

TripLingo is built by travelers, for travelers.

While Duolingo aims to help users become fluent in foreign languages, this app works to make picking up the local dialect as easy as 1-2-3.

There are hundreds of destinations to choose from and once youโ€™ve selected a target country, youโ€™ll be able to download the associated audio files. Phrase categories include conversation basics, slang, dining, and more.

The app also offers direct translations in a few different ways: voice and text or, if you find yourself in a jam, pay a small fee to call a live translator (something that would be very helpful in the event of an emergency).

Other features include cultural etiquette guides (travel tips, dining, body language, etc.) as well as important safety information, including embassy contact info and medical terminology amongst other things.

If there was ever an app that borders on being the Swiss army knife of travel, itโ€™s TripLingo!

User interface of TripLingo

BONUS: YELP

Yes, I get it. Everyone knows what Yelp is. So then why is it so often overlooked while traveling abroad?

Iโ€™ll spare you the synopsis, but let this serve as a reminder to use it the next time you find yourself traversing the globe. From hidden gems to the top local restaurants, itโ€™s a gold mine of information for indecisive people such as myself!

Apple users get it here

Android users get it here๏ปฟ

Do you have a different app that you swear by while traveling? Iโ€™d love to hear about it in the comments below!

As always, thanks for following along. Stay safe & happy travels!


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Innsbruck City Guide: 10 things to do in Austria's alpine city

From the local flavors of speck and strudel to the stunning mountainous views that surround the city, Innsbruck has something for everyone. It continues to sit at the top of the list of my favorite European cities and I can guarantee youโ€™ll have a great time!

The jewel of the Alps, Innsbruck city center, sits aglow at the bases of the mountains

Please note: All information listed below is up to date as of May 2023


Tucked away within the shadows of the surrounding Alps lies Innsbruck, Austria.

A mountainous paradise thatโ€™s known for its rich Tirolean history and the epicenter of winter sports, having hosted the Olympics in both 1964 and 1976.

To this day, it remains one of my favorite European cities of all time and by the end of this post, you should have a pretty good idea as to why!

Letโ€™s explore 10 of the top things to do when in Innsbruck, Austria.

1. SAVOR A STRUDEL AT CAFE KROLL

Nestled within Innsbruckโ€™s old town, Cafe Kroll serves up some of the cityโ€™s best homemade strudel as voted by tourists and locals alike. 

You can be sure to find a steady stream of customers from the moment the doors open in the morning straight until closing. Itโ€™s easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of variety offered, but I would personally recommend giving the apricot and hazelnut strudel a try if in the mood for something sweet or the spinach and feta for savory. 

Pro Tip: Cafe Kroll offers several gluten-free items, so thereโ€™s no excuse to stay away!

Hours: 6am - 9pm daily

Address: Hofgasse 6, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Website: www.strudel-cafe.at

2. EXPERIENCE THE JEWEL OF THE ALPS

Widely known as the โ€œjewel of the Alps", the Nordkette mountain range sits just north of Innsbruck and rises to 8,651 feet at its highest point (Kleiner Solstein Peak) and is part of Austriaโ€™s largest Nature Park, the Karwendel.

Find your way to Innsbruckโ€™s Hungerburgbahn Station and hop in the Hungerburg Funicular before catching a tram up to Seegrube (6,250ft.) and Hafelekar (7,401ft.) to enjoy the panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains.

In the winter months, the area becomes a popular ski destination, the Hafekeler run being one of the steepest in all of Europe, and in the summer months, visitors can enjoy expansive hiking, climbing, and mountain biking.

It made for a great Christmas Day adventure during our most recent trip! 

Pro tip: The Hungerburg Funicular will also take visitors to the Alpine Zoo, the highest in all of Europe. A combination ticket for the funicular and zoo entry will cost 19 euros per person.

Helpful Hints: The funicular from Hungerburgbahn Station is operational from 7:15am - 7:15pm M-F, 8am - 7:15pm Saturday and Sunday and runs every 15 minutes. The Seegrube cable car is open daily from 8:30am - 7:30pm while the Hafelekar tram operates from 9am - 5pm daily. Both run every 15 minutes.

Address: Hungerburgbahn Station, Rennweg 3, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Cost: Varies based one how many trams you choose to take, but expect to pay around 36.50 euros per person to get from the Hungerburgbahn Station to the top of the Hafelekar cable car (ski pass not included).

Website: More information on the entire area can be found by clicking here.

View from the top of the Hafeleker cable car in the afternoon sun, high above Innsbruck, Austria

View from the top of the Hafeleker cable car

3. LOSE YOURSELF IN THE LAND OF SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS

Opening in 1995, the Swarovski Kristallwelten (crystal worlds) welcomes tourists to wander around 17 different underground โ€œchambers of wonder,โ€ each filled with stunning crystal art created by international artists. 

When strolling through the gardens, be sure to not miss the Crystal Cloud, a piece comprised of 800,000 hand-mounted Swarovski crystals. Another fan favorite is the Crystal Dome, a room that contains 595 mirrors all working together to create stunning lighting and reflections. 

At the very least, exploring the halls is a humble reminder to keep saving your money! 

Pro Tip: Although the Kristallwelten is located outside of Innsbruck, a shuttle runs back and forth 5-6 times a day from various locations and costs 10 euros for a round trip ticket. More info can be found here.

Address: Kristallweltenstrasse, Wattens, Austria

Hours: 8:30am - 7:00pm, daily

Cost: 19 euros or free with an Innsbruck Card.

Website: www.kristallwelten.swarovski.com

4. STEP INTO THE RENNAISSANCE AT AMBRAS CASTLE

Once home to Archduke Ferdinand II, Ambras Castle is located in the southern part of Innsbruck and can easily be reached by tram and bus.

Ferdinand II was the prince known for elevating arts and sciences to new levels during his lifetime and the castleโ€™s residential rooms have been transformed into the Habsburg portrait gallery (open to visitors between April and October).

Tickets cost just 12 euros and can be purchased ahead of time by visiting the castleโ€™s website.

Address: Schlossstrassse 20, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Hours: Daily from 10:00am - 5:00pm, closed during the month of November

Website: Click here for more information or to purchase tickets.

5. CLIMB TO THE TOP OF INNSBRUCK CITY TOWER

Iโ€™ve visited Innsbruck more times than I can count, often passing through for a day or two, but I always make sure to leave time to climb the 148 stairs to the top of the Innsbruck City Tower. 

Itโ€™s easily my favorite 360-degree view of the city, standing amongst the rooftops and watching life pulsate through the city streets below. 

When the tower was still operational, it was manned by watchmen who were tasked with announcing the time every hour and warning the townspeople of incoming danger. The building also housed a prison during the Middle Ages on the ground floor. 

Costing only 4 euros per person, this is one of the best โ€œbang for your buckโ€ things to do in Innsbruck and it doesnโ€™t take much time at all! Important note: There is NO elevator available, so it may not be suitable for everyone.

Address: Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse 21, Innsbruck, Austria

Hours: Daily from 10:00am - 5:00pm (winter) and 10:00am - 8:00pm (summer)

Website: Click here for more information

An aerial view of Innsbruck, Austria as seen from the Innsbruck City Tower

View from the top of the Innsbruck City Tower

6. DEVOUR A PLATE OF SPECK AT TIROLER SPECKERIA

Since 1909 Tiroler Speckeria has been serving up some of the best Tyrolean bacon, commonly known as speck, found in all of Innsbruck. 

Do yourself a favor and order the specialty board (15 euros per person). Itโ€™s a great way to experience the diversity of Tyrolean flavors and I assure you it will be worth every cent. 

If youโ€™re short on time, the owners also offer up sandwiches to take on the go, but Iโ€™d recommend taking the time to sit down for a short meal. Itโ€™s hard to beat the ambiance and delicious food.

Address: Hofgasse 3, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Hours: Daily from 9:00am - 6:00pm

Website: www.speckeria.at

7. CATCH A LOCAL SPORTING EVENT

There are two main sporting events to check out: Football Club Wacker Innsbruck and Hockey Club Tiroler Wasserkraft Innsbruck.

Formed in 2002, FC Wacker plays their home matches at Tivoli Stadium in downtown Innsbruck and currently competes in the Austrian Football Second League. The 16,000-seat stadium played host to the likes of Spain, Russia, Sweden, and Greece during the 2008 European Championships.

HC Tiroler Wasserkraft plays across the street from Tivoli Stadium at the Olympia World Innsbruck Complex. Along with soccer and alpine skiing, ice hockey is one of the most popular sports in all of Austria, so rest assured youโ€™ll be in for quite the local experience without the normal influx of tourists.

Be sure to check the competition schedules during your trip!

Address: Stadionstrasse 1, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

FC Wacker Innsbruck Website: https://fc-wacker-innsbruck.at/

HC Tiroler Wassercraft Innsbruck Website: https://www.hcinnsbruck.at/de-DE๏ปฟ

8. REACH NEW HEIGHTS FROM THE TOP OF THE BERGISEL SKI JUMP

If you couldnโ€™t tell already, Iโ€™m all about gaining new perspectives wherever I go in the world and the top of the Bergisel Ski Jump certainly offers a unique one!

Used in both the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, the tower rises 47 meters towards the sky and features a restaurant at the top that rewards visitors with stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains and city below.

The 28,000-seat stadium continues to hold the famed Four Hills Tournament each year, a staple of the winter sports world, so if youโ€™re visiting in January then make sure to check a calendar ahead of time!

Address: Bergiselweg 3, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Hours: June to October from 9:00am - 6:00pm, November to May from 9:00am - 5:00pm

Entry Fee: 11 euros

Website: https://www.bergisel.info/at/

9. STROLL THROUGH INNSBRUCKโ€™S OLD TOWN (ALTSTADT VON INNSBRUCK)

Take an afternoon to wander through Innsbruckโ€™s 800-year-old city center and experience the charm and sophistication that exudes the mix of baroque and gothic architecture.

Walk along the Inn River to see the pastel-colored homes across the way, visit the Golden Roof and learn about the royal box where Emperor Maximillian I once watched over the city, or shop along the famed Maria-Theresien-Strasse.

Here is where youโ€™ll stumble upon the Triumphal Arch which was commissioned in 1765 by Empress Maria Theresa to commemorate the marriage of her son to the Spanish Princess Maria Ludovica. Unfortunately, Maria Theresaโ€™s husband passed away during the festivities, so the arch depicts a wedding on the southern facade and the mourning of her late husband on the northern. An interesting tale to say the least.

The famous Golden Roof as seen from an aerial perspective from the top of the City Tower in Innsbruck, Austria

Golden Roof as seen from above

10. GO BACK IN TIME AT INNSBRUCKโ€™S IMPERIAL PALACE

Constructed in the 1400s, the Imperial Palace is now split into several different museums including a furniture display, an ancestral gallery, and a painting gallery.

Next to the Vienna Hofburg and Schรถnbrunn, the Innsbruck Imperial Palace is amongst the three most significant cultural buildings in all of Austria!

Entry is free for children and only 9.90 euros for adults, making it a great value and the perfect rainy day activity.

If youโ€™ve ever wondered what the inside of a palace looks like, this is the place to go!

Address: Kaiserliche Hofburg, Rennweg 1, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria

Hours: Daily from 9:00am - 5:00pm

Website: hofburg-innsbruck.at

So, there you have it: 10 of the top things to do when visiting Innsbruck, Austria! In a city thatโ€™s filled with so much history, culture, and beautiful mountains, itโ€™s hard to go wrong with whatever you end up deciding to do. I hope you enjoy your trip!

Have you been to Innsbruck before? Did I leave something out? Let me know about your experiences in the comments below and, in the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!


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guide, travel, europe Chris Toone guide, travel, europe Chris Toone

Zurich City Guide: 12 things to do in Switzerland's largest city

Whether it's 5 hours or 5 days, here are some different ways to make the most out of your time in Zurich, Switzerland. Be sure to pack an appetite!

The River Limmat as seen from above in city center Zurich, Switzlerland, with boaters enjoying a crisp evening on the water

Please note: All information below is up to date as of May 2023


Work has kept me on the move for the better part of the past four years, bouncing between towns and villages around the world every few days. My restless feet have never been known to balk at the chance to explore a new place, so Iโ€™ve grown accustomed to taking myself on whirlwind tours of wherever I might find myself.

Thankfully, a Switzerland itinerary Switzerland itinerary has frequently appeared on the calendar.

Zurich is a place Iโ€™ve been to on a few different occasions, each lasting less than 24 hours. Itโ€™s a city full of history, beautiful architecture, and delicious cuisine, so itโ€™s easy to find something for everyone.

Here are the 12 top things to do when visiting Switzerlandโ€™s largest city. Spoiler alert: bring your appetite.

1. LINDENHOF PARK

Located within Zurichโ€™s Altstadt (old town), Lindenhof Park offers panoramic views over the River Limmat and sits on top of the cityโ€™s remaining Roman medieval wall. The square also happens to be the site of the Roman and Carolingian era kaiserpfalz, the emperorโ€™s castle, in which the city was built around.

Grab a beer and a pretzel, take a seat on the wall, and enjoy the views in the evening glow. Itโ€™s a popular thing to do in Zurich for both locals and tourists alike!

Aerial view of Zurich, Switzerland as seen from Lindenhof Park

Lindenhof Park - Zurich, Switzerland

2. FIFA WORLD CUP MUSEUM

What better place to learn about Europeโ€™s most popular sport than where the headquarters of the Federation Internationale de Football Association, otherwise known as FIFA, is located? 

Opened in 2016, the FIFA World Football Museum takes visitors on a journey through the sportโ€™s history with over 1,000 exhibits, photographs, and texts. It certainly doesnโ€™t hurt that entry is free when you use your Zurich Museum Card

If you donโ€™t have one, itโ€™s no problem! A ticket will cost you CHF 24 (just over $24) and can be purchased online by clicking here. It makes for a great rainy-day activity!

Address: Seestrasse 27, 8002 Zurich, Switzerland

Hours: 10am-6pm. Closed on Mondays, so plan ahead!

Website: www.fifamuseum.com

3. RESTAURANT LE DEZALEY

Add a hearty portion of Emmenthaler cheese to a moderately aged Gruyรจre, melt it down, put together a plate of charcuterie, and what do you get? One heck of a meal!

Tucked away in Zurichโ€™s old town, Le Dezaley has been serving up some of the best Swiss dishes in all of the city since opening its doors in 1903, but thereโ€™s one main reason to visit: the fondue.

Despite feeling as though youโ€™ve uncovered a hidden gem, the consensus is that the chefs at Le Dezaley do fondue better than anyone else around, so your safest bet to ensure access is to reserve a table ahead of time which, conveniently enough, can be done online by clicking here.

Wherever you choose to go, devouring cheese fondue is a must-do during your time in Zurich! Bonus points if you can say โ€œSwiss dishโ€ ten times fast.

Address: Romergasse 7-9, 8001 Zurich

Hours: 11:30am - 2:00pm & 6:00pm - 12:00am, closed on Sundays

Website: www.le-dezaley.ch

4. OLD TOWN

Also known as Altstadt, this quaint and car-free part of Zurich is where history began for Switzerlandโ€™s largest city. Itโ€™s here where youโ€™ll find some of the most important landmarks, such as the Fraumunster Church which was built in 853 by the German King Louis for his daughter, Hildegard.

The church is now home to a set of five stained glass windows from world-renowned artist Marc Chagall and serves as a popular destination for tourists.

If shopping is more your thing, make your way over to the Niederdorf District and browse the selection of eclectic boutiques.

Wandering isnโ€™t for everyone, and thatโ€™s ok. Luckily there are free tours of the city that lead visitors around to all of the major cultural spots and are available in multiple languages. Visit Free Walk Zurichโ€™s website for more information.

5. RIVER LIMMAT CRUISE

All you need is an hour to spare to discover Zurich from the water.

Embarking from the National Museum, the River Limmat Cruise offers a cheap way to float past famous landmarks around the city, such as the Grossmunster Church and Town Hall, as you make your way to Lake Zurich. The glass-roofed boats guarantee an incredible view regardless of your seat.

Be sure to check dates and timetables in advance as tours are only offered between April and October. The best part? prices start at CHF 6.80 (USD 7.50)!

Address: Zurich Landesmuseum Schiffsteg, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland

Timetables: Click here.

Special Note: The companyโ€™s website specifically mentions that boats are not suitable for wheelchairs.

Zurich, Switzerland in a light dusting of fresh snow as seen from the River Limmat

Zurich, Switzerland as seen from the River Limmat

6. LINDT CHOCOLATE FACTORY

This is your chance to live like Willy Wonka.

The Lindt factory offers a glimpse into how different chocolates are made as well as a variety of classes so that you can learn to make your delectable dessert under the tutelage of a master chocolatier.

A new 20,000 square meter facility, The Lindt Chocolate World, will open in 2020 and serve as the chocolate loverโ€™s version of Disney Land, containing the worldโ€™s largest Lindt store and chocolate fountain in addition to interactive exhibits and a research facility amongst other things.

Surely this will quickly rise to the top of things to do in Zurich once it opens. Iโ€™m drooling already!

Address: Seestrasse 204 , 8802 Kilchberg

Website: www.lindt.ch/en/๏ปฟ

7. UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH BOTANICAL GARDENS

Travel around the globe without ever stepping foot outside of Zurich!

From alpine flowers to Mediterranean plants, thereโ€™s plenty to see, smell, and explore at the University of Zurichโ€™s Botanical Gardens.

In total, the facility houses 9,000 plant species as well as 3 tropical domes. Entry is free and the greenhouses make for a great way to get your nature fix during a cloudy day! Visit during spring for the best viewing.

Address: Zolilkerstrasse 107, 8008 Zurich

Hours: 7am - 7pm during the week in the summer (8am-6pm on weekends), hours may vary during the off-season

** Tropical greenhouses are open from 9:30am - 5:00pm during summer months, hours may vary during the off-season

Website: Zurich Botanical Gardens

8. KARLSTURM TOWER

For sweeping views across the rooftops of Zurich, head over to the Karlsturm Tower and pay CHF 5 (or free for Zurich Card holders) to climb the 187 stairs to the top.

Part of the Grossmunster Church, this famous landmark is a former monastery that was built on top of the graves of the cityโ€™s patron saints, Felix and Regula.

With its rich history and panoramic views, this is a must-do activity in Zurich!

Address: Grossmunster, Grossmunster Platz, 8001 Zurich

Hours: Opens 10am, Monday-Saturday and 12:30pm on Sundays

Website: www.grossmuenster.ch

Zurich, Switzerland at sunset as seen from above

Zurich from above

9. LAKE ZURICH

The most expansive scenery around Lake Zurich can be found at the Burkliterasse, located at the end of the Bahnhofstrasse shopping street. 

On a clear day, youโ€™ll be able to see as far as the Swiss Alps! 

Itching to get out on the water? This is where the Lake Zurich Navigation Company offers daily cruises that range from 1.5-4 hours in length. Spice things up and book a trip aboard the cheese fondue boat or break out the spandex and hop on the 80s party cruise!

Address: Burkliplatz, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland

Cruise Cost: Varies based on chosen package

Website: Lake Zurich Navigation Company

10. STERNEN GRILL BRATS

Locals and foreigners agree: Sternen Grill is home to Zurichโ€™s best sausage.

Some say itโ€™s the soft bread roll that puts it over the top while others are infatuated with the delicious spicy mustard. Either way, itโ€™s worth the visit.

Seating is available, but my recommendation is to grab a takeaway, cross the street to the Sechselautenplatz and savor your brat while sitting lakeside beneath the shadows of the Opernhaus Zurich.

Roasted chicken is also available for purchase, so donโ€™t worry if brats arenโ€™t your thing.

Address: Theaterstrasse 22, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland

Hours: 10:30am - 11:45pm, daily

11. SWISS NATIONAL MUSEUM

Located along the River Limmat and mere minutes from the train station, this museum is the most frequently visited in all of Switzerland. 

Exhibitions usher visitors chronologically through ancient times, Middle Ages, and into the 20th century. Entry is free with the Zurich Museum Card or CHF 10 without it. 

This is also where the River Limmat cruise boats depart, so not only is it a great way to learn about Switzerlandโ€™s history but then you can get out and explore it!

Address: Museumstrasse 2, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland

Hours: 10:00am - 5:00pm, closed on Mondays

Website: www.landesmuseum.ch/en

12. CHINAGARTEN

An underrated yet great thing to visit in Zurich is the cityโ€™s Chinese Gardens, especially if youโ€™re in search of peace and tranquility.

The garden was a gift from Zurichโ€™s sister city, Kunming, as a way to express gratitude for the Swissโ€™ efforts in providing technical and scientific support towards the expansion of drinking water supplies and urban drainage.

Certainly a beautiful place with a meaningful story behind it.

Address: Bellerivestrasse 138, 8008 Zurich

Entry Fee: CHF 4

Hours: 11:00am - 7:00pm

** The garden is closed in winter months

Website: Zurich Chinagarten๏ปฟ


Whether you have 2 hours or 2 days to wander the city, itโ€™s worth getting out and about to experience the Swiss culture.

Snack on a pretzel, sample some chocolate, and learn about the history as you go!

Have any other recommendations for Zurich that I might have missed? Feel free to leave a comment below. I enjoy hearing from you all!

Thanks for following along with Tooneโ€™s Travels! As always, stay safe & happy travels.


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reflection, story, travel, italy, Europe Chris Toone reflection, story, travel, italy, Europe Chris Toone

Venezia Football Club: Venice's best kept secret

In a city that welcomes 30 million visitors each year, it seems unlikely that something has been left undiscovered, right? Think again. Venezia Football Club has remained raw, authentic, and full of passion despite the modern age of overtourism. Sport fanatic or not, itโ€™s worth checking out. Hereโ€™s whyโ€ฆ

The pitch at Stadio Pierluigi Penzo in Venice, Italy is illuminated on a gray winter day after a Venezia FC match

Before reading: Venezia FC was promoted to Serie A in 2021 for the first time in 19 years but was forced to cope with relegation and is currently back competing in Serie B.


Travel writer Thomas Watkins once wrote, โ€œThere is no country so much frequented yet so little known by foreigners as Venice [Italy].โ€ That was back in 1788, but hundreds of years later itโ€™s still true.

The reality is that 30 million people tour the Venetian Lagoon each year, eager to capture the perfect selfie in St. Markโ€™s Square. They pay hundreds of dollars for gondola rides, put out for overpriced cocktails in the famed piazzas, and live their fantasy of calling this lustful place home, even if only for an afternoon.

St. Markโ€™s Square as seen from the San Giorgio Bell Tower in Venice, Italy

St. Markโ€™s Square as seen from the San Giorgio Bell Tower

Itโ€™s not easy to look beyond the facades of the San Marco district and why would anyone need to? There is natural beauty and history at every turn. Despite this, I couldnโ€™t help but feel there was more to Venice than meets the eye.

Cue the Venezia Football Club. A professional soccer team formed in 1907 that competes in Italyโ€™s second division (Serie B) and, despite the high volume of foot traffic within the cityโ€™s limits, is still undoubtedly hidden within the easternmost confines of the city. It has a history. It has a culture. It has passion. Yet rarely do foreigners ever experience it.

The club plays its home matches at the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo, a cozy 11,150-seat stadium thatโ€™s tucked away deep within the Santโ€™Elena district. A quick search of the web will explain how itโ€™s the second oldest continually used venue in all of Italy. Thatโ€™s quite an impressive feat when you consider the deep history of Italian football but somehow remains largely invisible to a majority of the cityโ€™s visitors.

Itโ€™s certainly not the easiest place to find. There are no banners, no yellow signs indicating a point of interest like those seen plastered around the tourist trail, and no walking tour in sight. The stadium is simply there, hidden in plain sight for better or for worse and serving as a discrete monument of stability within a city thatโ€™s constantly changing.

Inside the famed Stadio Pierluigi Penzo in Venice, Italy

Inside Stadio Pierluigi Penzo - Venice, Italy

During my first visit, I didnโ€™t learn of the clubโ€™s existence until the day after they had played at home. I wasnโ€™t about to make that same mistake the next time I found myself aimlessly wandering the canals of Venice and sure enough, the stars aligned a year later. 

On the day of the match, indescribable energy filled the air. Fans from Mestre, Veniceโ€™s mainland neighbor, packed the water taxi like a can of sardines, disembarking at the Santโ€™Elena pier before making their way to the stadium. It wasnโ€™t a long walk from the docks by any means, but Iโ€™ll always remember the roar of the crowd directing the newcomers, guiding us through the streets, and growing louder with each step.

Once inside, I couldnโ€™t help but feel as though I was witnessing a religious experience of sorts. Sure, Venice is full of cathedrals, but the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo is one that never receives attention. Itโ€™s a different kind of church, of course. A holy place where Venetians gather, rain or shine, to pay tribute to what many refer to as the most beautiful game in the world.

I took my seat in the Curva Sud section, home to the clubโ€™s diehard supporters. Organized chaos is the only way to describe it as a couple of delirious individuals led continuous chants throughout the entire 90 minutes, never once taking their eyes off the crowd. This was the heartbeat of everything, setting the tone for fans and players alike.

Fans in the Curva Sud religiously cheer Venezia FC to victory during their time in Serie B

On the northern end of the stadium stood the away supporters, valiantly trying to make their presence felt with flags and cheers of their own, all the while seemingly un-phased by the uphill battle they faced. It was to no avail on this particular afternoon.

The atmosphere was a far cry from the luxury and sophistication that exude the shops along the Grand Canal. There was nothing โ€œhigh endโ€ about it, nor should there have been. Instead, the beauty of this moment came from within the people, their raw emotion filling the stadium like a pressure cooker that could only be released when the ball struck the back of the net in favor of the home side.

Anyone who knows me is well aware that I consider myself to be completely infatuated with the sport of soccer. 

Itโ€™s only natural that I would come away loving the experience, but trust me when I say that this was different. On a gray, dreary, and otherwise lifeless February afternoon, the Santโ€™Elena district was alive and well thanks to an overlooked staple of Venetian life: The Venezia Football Club.

Wander amongst the canals of Venice and itโ€™s easy to feel the rich history oozing from the walls of the city but step inside the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo on match day and you suddenly become part of it, living amongst the pages as theyโ€™re written. 

This was the first time that I felt as though I had been gifted a small glimpse into the real life of Venice and for that, I will forever be a fan of Venezia F.C. Grazie, thank you, Winged Lions!

Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels!


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