Wandering in Venice, Italy: How to avoid the (overly) beaten path
Please note: All info below is accurate as of May 2023
Stepping foot into Venice is like entering an alternate universe. It's a world where the mundane turns into endless wonders, where even the simplest things, whether a door or a narrow street, are transformed into a romanticized version of their previous selves. With so much splendor, it's not hard to imagine why more than 36 million tourists flock to the Venetian canals annually. In fact, between April and October, nearly 32,000 cruise ship passengers disembark in the beautiful city per day.
There has been much debate over tourism in Venice in recent years and the local government is consistently exploring ways to minimize the burden that foreigners leave behind. Day-trippers will need to pay between 3 and 10 euros once the newest tax system is activated, and air travelers will need to pay a surcharge of 2.50 euros to depart the Venice Marco Polo Airport . In 2018, the city went as far as experimenting with turnstiles during a holiday weekend, restricting tourist access to more local parts of the city in an attempt to give residents a reprieve from the endless stream of international visitors.
Despite these efforts, the cruise ships keep docking and the tourists keep coming. Local Venetians continue to flee to mainland Italy at an alarming rate, often disgruntled at the feeling of living in an “open-air museum.”
These problems won’t be resolved anytime soon. While the local government continues their efforts, here are some helpful tips and tricks to get the full Venice experience without contributing to the demise of the place we all covet so much!
In this post we’ll discuss:
WHEN TO GO
Tourist season in Venice lasts from April to October. During this time, 13-story cruise ships cast looming shadows over St. Mark’s Square, a steady stream of selfie-taking foreigners disembarking from these modern marvels on a daily basis.
This is when overcrowding is at its worst. Sure, the weather is beautiful more days than not, but do you really want to be bumping into droves of sweaty human beings as you try to maneuver across the narrow bridges, elbowing people out of the way as you fight for even a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs?
Instead, consider planning a visit during the shoulder season; either March or November. These months tend to be less crowded due to the cooler temperatures, with highs hovering around mid to upper 50s. It's a small price to pay to truly experience the magic of Venice without thousands of others around.
Pack a light jacket, bask in the sunshine as you wander along the water, and, if all else fails at keeping you cozy, don’t forget how cheap the wine is there! There are plenty of ways to enjoy your time in Venice without the 70 degree temperatures and high humidity of July.
My first visit was in March and the second one in February. Each time included sunny weather, lower prices, fewer crowds and, most importantly, no cruise ships. It wasn’t hard to find an empty piazza to enjoy a mid-morning Aperol spritz!
WHERE TO STAY
Venice’s historic city center, or centro storico, is divided into six main districts:
San Marco - 5 star hotels and tourists galore
Cannaregio - known as an old 16th century Jewish Ghetto
Castello - stretches eastward from the tourist center
Dorsoduro - the university district
San Polo - Rialto Markets and surrounding area
Santa Croce - close to the bus terminals
If looking to avoid crowds, I’d recommend searching for accommodation in Cannaregio. Not only does this neighborhood provide everything you need - easy access to the Vaporetto (water taxi), quiet streets and alleys to wander, shopping along the Strada Nova, and more - staying here also helps to disperse the effects of tourism beyond the saturated San Marco district, leaving a little more space for the locals in that area to breathe. Consider it a way to respectfully reduce your travel footprint.
Cannaregio is located on the northern end of the city, adjacent to Venice’s Santa Lucia train station and Piazzale Roma bus terminal. Both are just a short 10-15 minute walk away. Once in the neighborhood, you’ll find it simple to navigate your way to San Marco (this is where many of the “must-see” sights are located) via land or boat. Several of our days were spent lazily wandering the surrounding streets of the old Jewish Ghetto, admiring the architectural wonder that is Venice as a whole.
EXPLORING OFF THE BEATEN PATH
The fact of the matter is that Venice is experiencing an age of over-tourism, but going against the flow and looking beyond the “top 10 sights to see” is just one way in which we can combat the negative effects.
Think of it like this: If 1,000 people are running up and down an ancient staircase each day, those steps will likely require more routine maintenance whereas if this number were distributed across several other lesser-known, but equally magnificent staircases, the overall cost of maintenance would decrease, removing the financial burden from those that care for it.
Am I saying to avoid places like St. Mark’s Square altogether? No, not! I’m simply advocating that going beyond the crowds will lead to a better experience for you as a traveler as well as the local people. It doesn’t have to be one or the other.
Here are some helpful hints to uncover the hidden gems of Venice — it’s easier to get off the beaten path than you might think!
“Venice never quite seems real, rather an ornate film set suspended on the water.”
1. Avoid the lines of St. Mark’s Campanile and head to San Giorgio Maggiore instead
San Giorgio Maggiore is a small island located across the water from St. Mark’s Square and is easily accessible via Vaporetto or private water taxi. Wandering the grounds of the church is worth the trip in its own right, but the real thrill is riding the elevator to the top of the bell tower and taking in the sweeping views of Venice below. A truly unique way to see the city in all its glory.
Here’s everything you need to know to visit:
Opening Hours:
May - September: 8:30am - 6:00pm; Sundays: 2:00pm - 6:00pm
April - October: 9:00am - 7:00pm; Sundays: 2:00pm - 7:00pm
Getting There:
The island is accessed via Line 2 on the Vaporetto. Available throughout Venice, he most convenient place to catch the boat is from the San Marco-San Zaccaria stop which is located just east of St. Mark’s Square. A 3 minute ride later and you will be on the steps of the Church of San Giorgio.
Tickets:
A ticket to the top will cost 6 euros.
Looking towards San Marco from the San Giorgio bell tower
2. Attend a Venezia F.C. match at Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
On the easternmost shore of Venice lies the Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo. Opened in 1913, it is the second oldest continually used soccer stadium in all of Italy and home to Venezia F.C. The club has a shaky history marred by multiple bankruptcies, but New York lawyer Joe Tacopina came to the rescue, purchasing the organization in 2015. The team now competes in the Italian Second Division (Serie B).
Italians are passionate about their soccer, many supporters even making the commute from nearby Mestre on the mainland to support their beloved Leoni Alati (Winged Lions). Widely unknown to the rest of the tourist trail, this makes for a culturally intimate and unique experience.
Where else will you be able to attend a professional soccer match where the players, fans, and staff all arrive via boat?
Getting There:
Walking from Cannaregio will take around 50 minutes, or you can take the Vaporetto to the Sant’Elena Stop. Lines 1, 4.1, 5.1, 6, and N all service this station.
Tickets:
Tickets can be purchased upon arrival to the stadium or in advance at Better.Marte souvenir store in Venice (Calle dei Albanesi 42/61). Be sure to bring your ID.
Prices typically range from 10 euros for a spot in the supporters section, also known as “Curva Sud”, to 30 euros for a midfield seat in the main stand. If you’re looking for the passionate experience that gets you in on the action, definitely look no further than Curva Sud.
Interested in learning more about Venezia F.C? Check out this post:
Venezia FC match at Stadio Pierluigi Penzo
3. Explore Venice from the water via Vaporetto
Made up of 150 canals, Venice begs to be explored from the water, but be mindful that overcrowding has created a negative effect here, too. As I mentioned above, it’s estimated that cruise ships inject nearly 32,000 tourists per day into the city during the high season. Even if only 50% of these visitors opted to explore the area via private taxi or gondola, that’s still a boatload (pun intended) of vessels traversing the waterways!
Considering that the Grand Canal sees 60% of Venice’s traffic yet is only 2.5 miles long and 350 feet across at its widest point, you can picture the congestion that ensues. The solution? Ride like a local.
A 24-hour ticket for the ACTV Vaporetto (water taxi) costs only 25 euros and gives the flexibility to hop on and off all around the city, including stops at the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello! It’s the perfect way to experience life as a Venetian while exploring at your own pace and reducing your travel footprint!
4. Visit St. Mark’s Square at Dawn
Heather and I casually strolled over to St. Mark’s Square during our first afternoon in Venice, gleefully following the winding paths as we went. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a mob of tourists playing with pigeons and taking selfies with St. Mark’s Basilica in the background. It was enough for us to keep on walking, straight through the square and to a different part of the city.
Luckily our good friend, Giorgio, had informed us about the San Giorgio Bell Tower, but we still wanted to experience St. Mark’s Square. After all, so many people must be drawn here for a reason.
The solution? Visit at dawn.
Our alarm clocks pierced the silence of the apartment at 5 a.m. as we aimlessly rolled out of bed. Forcing our eyes open, we waltzed down the stairs and out onto the empty streets of Cannaregio. By the time we reached St. Mark’s Square, we were fully awake and greeted by a beautiful sunrise. The best part? Aside from a local street sweeper, other savvy travelers, and a few locals passing through, we had the place to ourselves! No pushing, no shoving, no selfie sticks - just the two of us and the beautiful plaza illuminated by the sun’s first light.
San Marco at sunrise
6. Meander Through the Rialto Fish Market
Situated along the banks of the Grand Canal, the Mercato di Rialto is a 10-century old fish and vegetable market offering the chance to explore all that the surrounding waters have to offer. It’s the perfect place to grab a basket of fresh fruit for breakfast and sit along the canal, watching the fishmongers prepare and sell their catch of the day.
We made our way here after our exploring St. Mark’s Square at dawn. It was the perfect way to cap off a morning of watching Venice come alive!
Hours:
Fish Market: 7:30am - 1:00pm Tuesday through Saturday
Fruit & Vegetable Market: 7:30am - 1:00pm Monday through Saturday
Getting There
From Cannaregio, walk across the Rialto bridge and continue to follow the Grand Canal (to your right). You won’t miss it.
Vaporetto Line 1 to Rialto Mercato
7. Witness the Making of Gondolas
Venice has approximately 400 gondolas in service, but how are they made? Look no further than the gondola repair shop located at the Squero di San Trovaso. In the oldest and most famous yard, visitors can catch a glimpse of what it takes to build these hand-crafted, romanticized vessels.
Technically speaking, the workshop isn’t open to the public but there’s no harm in respectfully looking on from a distance. If luck is on your side, a few gondolas will be out in the open as artisans tirelessly work to create their masterpieces.
Getting There:
The Squero di San Trovaso can be easily reached from the Zattere waterfront promenade, but I’d suggest simply heading towards the Dorsoduro district and stumbling upon it at your own pace. You never known what other hidden gems you might find!
8. Tour the Teatro la Fenice
Did you know that Venice is home to one of the most famous landmarks in all of Italian theatre? I didn’t either!
Originally opened in 1792, the opera house once held the likes of Napolean in its midst and continues to elegantly stand within the heart of Venice despite a history filled with devastating fires and destruction. Most recently, it was re-commissioned in 2003 following the 1996 arson.
Admittedly, I have not visited here yet, but it’s on the list for the next time I find myself wandering the canals of Venice.Tours
Self guided audio tours are available within normal operational hours and last approximately 45 minutes. Languages include English, French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Russian, and German. Please note that you must bring a valid ID to obtain an audio device.
Tickets
The book and gift shop in the lobby can be accessed without purchasing a ticket.
Full price tickets are 12.65 euros, however a discount applies to students up to the age of 26 and visitors over 65 (9.20 euros). Children up to 6 years old are free.
Address
Campo San Fantin, 1965, 30124 Venice VE
Hours
La Fenice is typically open daily from 9:30am until 6:00pm according to the official website.
9. Heighten your Senses in Burano
Heather and I decided to hop on the Vaporetto and head to the islands of Murano and Burano one afternoon, the latter being our favorite of the two.
As we stepped off the boat, we were immediately taken aback by the brightly colored homes that lined the canals of this sleepy fishing village. Legend says the vibrant hues served as a way for fishermen to navigate their way home through the dense fog of the lagoon.
Beyond the colorful homes, Burano is also known for its lacemaking tradition that dates back as far as 1500.
Before leaving town, be sure to take a stroll past the leaning bell tower and soak up all the tranquility you can before heading back to the hustle and bustle of Venice.
For a unique view of the Venice skyline, head to the southwest corner of the island and walk along the Fondamenta di Cao Moleca.
Getting There:
The only Vaporetto that services Burano is line 12. The ride lasts around 45 minutes, which gives you plenty of time to enjoy the cruise across the lagoon. Don’t miss catching a glimpse of Islo di San Michele, Venice’s cemetery island, as you pass by.
The most direct route departs Venice from Fonte Nova “A”.
Burano, Venice
10. Get “Lost” as You Wander Through the Streets
It’s often said that there is no such thing as a “wrong turn” in Venice, and I completely agree! It’s an explorer’s dream, enabling curious folk to wander without a plan. After all, Venice is a collection of islands, so you can’t get too lost!
My three favorite districts to discover on foot were Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, and Castello, each offering their own unique atmosphere. We spent countless hours happily walking with no destination in mind, excited to see what might lay around the corner ahead.
Bonus: Take in the Sights From a Distance
Similar to seeking out views from above, I’m a big fan of learning about a place by simply observing everyday life as it passes me by. Two of my favorite spots to sit and watch from are:
The Basilica di Santa Maria - Located at the entrance of the Grand Canal and across from St. Mark’s Square, this viewpoint is the perfect place to study the traffic along the waterway.
The Arsenale Vaporetto stop - Glance at a map of Venice and you will immediately notice the reverse s-shape curve of the Grand Canal. Stroll far enough east and eventually the curvature will yield a view looking back towards the heart of the city. This viewpoint was especially breathtaking at sunset.
Looking from the steps of the Basilica di Santa Maria
Venice is a truly magical place; a wanderer’s paradise, if you will. It’s up to us, as respectful and mindful travelers to do our part in preserving the culture and integrity of this awe-inspiring place.
As Alexander Herzen once said, “To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness, but to build there one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius.”
Have you been to Venice before? Do you have any “off the beaten path” tips of your own? Be sure to comment below.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels!
Find this post helpful? Pin and share with others!
-
The best thing about moving abroad: unsubscribing from so many emails.
-
RT @travelingmitch: As you move through this life and this world, you change things slightly; you leave marks behind, however small. An… https://t.co/A6PDp2eoP5