Chasing Choclon Waterfall: Discovering paradise in the Panamanian jungle
As I combed through the research prior to our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it. There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us where it was located…
Let me clarify one thing right from the beginning: we weren’t actually in the middle of nowhere. That’s simply how it felt, and to be honest, that’s just the way we like it!
As I combed through the research before our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it (click here to see the original post I found).
There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us the location, let alone how to navigate the hike.
I stumbled deep into the black hole of the internet, searching for any clues that might point us in the right direction. The only objective I accomplished that day was leaving a solid imprint of my butt on the couch cushion. Disappointing, to say the least.
That might be enough to call it quits for some, but it only fueled the fire within. The longer I went without finding what I was looking for, the more determined I became. We were going to find a way to Cascada Choclón. There was no doubt in my mind.
All of the sudden a beam of sunlight shot into the living room. No, it wasn’t actually that dramatic, but shortly after opening the window blinds I came across our first solid lead.
It’s possible that “solid” is a gross overstatement. The website merely provided the GPS coordinates for the trailhead. It wasn’t much to go on, but that was enough to get the ball rolling!
I continued scouring every piece of information that I could find. When I took a closer look at satellite imaging, there was a portion where the jungle appeared to part along the river, providing a much-needed hint to where the falls may be.
Now that I had a starting point and a general direction, it seemed like this may pan out. Fast forward to arriving in Panama: it was time for the adventure!
As soon as we turned off the main road in Boquete, we quickly became grateful that we opted for the SUV rental. The pavement disappeared, our cell service wasn’t far behind.
The farther we drove, the slower we went, carefully maneuvering over every bump, boulder, and hole in the road. As the minutes ticked by, so did our confidence even though neither of us would ever vocalize it.
After what felt like hours, we had reached the starting point.
The car came to a halt and a cloud of dust from our tires quickly engulfed our field of vision. Once it cleared, we realized how “off the beaten track” we were. The sounds of the jungle beckoned beyond the open field that lay ahead. One last look at our maps and we were off.
The hike started by traversing through an open meadow as the sun beat down our backs, the humidity making it impossible for any relief. Upon reaching the first junction, we referred to our makeshift maps and descended to the forest floor, following the sounds of the river below.
As we trekked deeper into the brush, the canopy quickly began to rise straight towards the sky, providing a much-needed relief from the heat. Our compass instructed us to go left around a closed gate, but our ears directed us to the right, towards the sound of the rushing water. We stood there confused, unsure of what to do.
At this point the sun forced us to perspire off our umpteen layers of sunscreen and bug spray, leaving us susceptible to the mosquitoes that began swarming around. We were in no position to have a lengthy debate. Lacking confidence in either direction, we climbed back out to the trailhead.
Maybe we had incorrectly interpreted our map. Maybe if we walked another direction we would discover a different, easier way to reach the river.
It seemed like a good idea at the time but, as it turned out, we were wrong. Very wrong.
As we continued down the gravel road the intensity of the sun drained all of our energy. I could feel my body temperature rising, but I was too exhausted to do anything about it. Each step we took was met with an unsuccessful prayer for cloud cover.
Ten minutes and a new sunburn later, we had reached another dead end.
This was the point that every ounce of my being was telling me to pack up and call it a day. Our motivation was waning, the heat was relentless, and we were out of ideas as we slowly retreated back to the car. I remember Heather cracking jokes along the way, trying to make light of the situation and keep my morale in tact.
A second look at the scattered research revealed a small access path farther down the dirt road. Maybe that was what we were looking for, so we decided to keep driving north.
No luck.
I could tell that Heather wasn’t too sure about continuing and, to be honest, even after regrouping in the air-conditioned car, I wasn’t either. As a rainstorm moved through, we took the time to reevaluate what we were doing.
We felt assured and frustrated at the same time. Confident that we were in the general vicinity. Annoyed that no matter how we approached it, we couldn’t find what we were searching for.
The road back to the original trailhead provided some much-needed perspective as we passed run-down homes with missing walls and children playing in the rain. I couldn’t help but think of the number of tourists that travel through Panama each year and yet had no idea that this part of the country existed. Although we concluded that we would give our adventure one more try, I decided that after the experience we had up to that point, I would be content no matter what. After all, it was Dan Eldon that once said, “The journey is the destination.”
Once we descended back into the jungle, reached the gate, and shuffled our way around it, we were back on track and heading in the right direction.
We quickly descended farther into the forest floor, hugging a makeshift PVC pipe railing along a ridge and using the vines as support as we worked our way down into the canyon. The path was completely overgrown with thick brush rising far above our heads. Thrusting the branches aside, we did our best to stick to the trail quickly narrowed with each step.
The ecosystem of any jungle is the most diverse in the world, often-times leading to regular discoveries of new plants and animals. Panama alone is home to over 1,500 kinds of trees and five species of cats, including jaguars, ocelots, and pumas. It feels eerie yet humbling to be amongst it; a place where the silence is deafening and only broken by an occasional howler monkey crying out in the distance or a bird rummaging amongst the fallen leaves for food.
We silently trekked along the forest floor, remaining vigilant of our surroundings.
The moment we began to feel comfortable, a loud crash echoed through the forest and left us frozen in our tracks. We exchanged nervous glances, trying to control our breathing and telepathically communicate what to do next.
Tip-toeing forward as quietly as possible, we did our best to avoid the branches that covered our path. Needless to say it was a humbling reminder that regardless of how isolated we felt, we weren’t alone.
Finally, the thick brush parted and the bank of the river appeared, reinvigorating the idea that we could find these waterfalls.
We searched up and down the river for a way to cross, but it quickly became clear that it wouldn’t be as simple as jumping between rocks. We would have to carefully select the path of least resistance.
Although our faces may have expressed doubt, we were so close that we could feel it. There was no turning back.
The path continued to disappear before our eyes, winding its way through the overgrown brush before depositing us back onto the rocks and leaving us with newly acquired scrapes up and down our legs.
We continued moving northwest, systematically evaluating every step we took as our feet slipped off the rocks. The energy in the forest changed from nervousness to excitement as we inched closer. We were nearly there.
Just beyond the final bend of the river, the waterfalls were waiting to greet us. It was even more majestic than I had seen in the pictures.
We were left speechless as we peered towards an amphitheater of hanging vines and cascading waterfalls.
The beautiful blue waters of the pool were irresistible. We couldn’t help but jump in and soak up the moment. A rush of emotions engulfed us, leaving nothing but a sense of relief, gratefulness, peace. We had uncovered paradise in the Panamanian jungle. More importantly, we never gave up.
The forest floor quickly grew dark as the sun began to drop below the horizon, signaling that it was time to pack up and move out.
Back on the trail we went, accompanied by the beautiful silence, this time with no unexpected noises.
We made it to the car unscathed, feeling sunburnt and dehydrated yet eternally grateful for all that had happened that day. After all, we had found our own slice of Panama that, at that moment, felt truly untouched.
As I reflect on the adventure we had, I can’t help but think of one of my favorite quotes from the late Anthony Bourdain: “The journey is part of the experience - an expression of the seriousness of one’s intent. One doesn’t take the A train to Mecca.”
What have been some of your greatest journeys? Feel free to share in the comments below.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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How I Caught The Travel Bug: and 3 reasons why I can't let it go
I vividly remember standing there on the shores of Hopfen, Germany. It was the summer between my junior and senior years of high school and I was captivated by my first taste of international exploration. I didn’t know it at the time - I don’t think I quite knew how to process it all - but that was my first experience with the travel bug…
I vividly remember standing there on the shores of Hopfen, Germany. It was the summer before my senior year of high school and I was captivated by my first taste of international exploration. Although I was there to play soccer, what I remember most are the cows grazing the fields behind our apartments, the majestic Alps rising high above the blue water of the lake, and the quaint town with its endless schnitzel. I didn’t know it at the time - I don’t think I quite knew how to process it all - but that was my first experience with the travel bug.
I should have guessed that something had shifted. Things that were once important to me stopped taking up space in my brain. Whenever my mind would drift, it would take me straight back to that scene, standing there on the shores of the lake. Suddenly the excitement, awe, and desire to see more would keep me at the edge of my seat, working my way through Google Earth, scanning it all to find the next great adventure.
Fast forward to 2009, I was a freshman at Ithaca College. At that point in my life, I had shifted back to a more rigid mindset. Work hard, get good grades, and be successful. I had no intention of studying abroad, but then everything changed.
As I walked down a narrow corridor towards the sub shop on campus, I passed a poster for Semester at Sea. I was 5ft. from where I was going and this small 8x11 piece of paper stopped me in my tracks. I took it off of the bulletin board, sat down on a nearby staircase, and started to read and re-read every single detail. I was completely and utterly entranced as the world passed me by.
The idea of an opportunity like this had utterly captivated me. Once again, everything else I had on my plate was brushed to the side so I could focus on the important thing: doing anything possible to make a semester abroad happen. I spent the entire summer working two jobs, saving as much as possible to go out and see the world.
Have you ever had an experience that's so comfortable that it’s odd? That’s what Semester at Sea was.
I’ve never been good at social situations. It gives me anxiety to even think about it; I overanalyze, overthink, and can never come up with something to contribute unless I’m addressed directly. Even then I fumble over the words.
Why did 19-year old me think it was a good idea to put myself in the middle of the unknown, surrounded by people I’ve never met? Still, to this day, I don’t know have an answer to that question. With that being said, I’m incredibly glad that I forced myself into it.
Suddenly it was the day of embarkation and as we watched Halifax silently disappear on the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean, I still had no idea what I was doing. The next 110 days were a whirlwind, but I walked away with some of the closest friends I’ll ever have, all because one thing brought us together: travel.
That’s a bond of the purest form and one that can never be broken. We’ve all gone our separate ways and haven’t traveled together since, but whenever we catch up we always reminisce about the stories that we created together, all without missing a beat.
After returning to Ithaca for the rest of my sophomore year, I started to understand that the travel bug wasn’t just a phenomenon that people mentioned in passing. It was real. This time it wasn’t going to loosen its grip and to be fair, I didn’t want to let it.
I’m not sure what the tipping point was, exactly. Maybe it was the sleeper bus in China that dropped us on the side of the highway at 2 am, or climbing Lionshead Peak in South Africa as the sun set over the ocean. It could have been the time in Ghana when our van broke down on a dirt road right in front of the only house in sight and we ended up playing with the family for what felt like hours, far longer than was needed to fix our transportation. Whatever it was, I’m grateful that it happened.
From that point on I’ve always known that deep down traveling was more than simply buying a plane ticket and snapping some pictures; I had fallen in love with it. The aerial views from a window seat, the taxi rides in the wrong direction, the regular doses of PeptoBismol; all of it.
Don’t get me wrong, I go through the rollercoaster of thinking along the lines of what some might term logical: Get a job, find a stable career, live comfortably, and be happy.
If you’re reading this and think that I need to control my desire to perpetually wander the world, you wouldn’t be the first person to tell me that and I’d be willing to bet that you won’t be the last.
To my credit, I’ve tried. The last four years have taken me around the globe to some amazing places for work, but what many don’t realize is that traveling for work and truly traveling are two very different things. It was too comfortable. I couldn’t do it anymore.
So here I sit, writing this blog and hoping that it puts me out of my comfort zone all the while maybe, just maybe, inspiring you to do the same. After all, what better way to expand your borders than by living beyond their walls?
At the end of the day, it’s simple: I can’t stop traveling, I won’t stop exploring, and here’s why:
THE CHALLENGE
Dropping myself into a country where I don’t know anyone, a place where I don’t speak a lick of the language or have the slightest idea of how to navigate the city. That’s my greatest joy.
I’m not going to lie to you: it’s difficult. Even scary at times. There are days that I don’t want to leave whatever apartment I’m temporarily calling home, because those 4 walls are the only protection I have from the unknown.
When I overcome the fear, the concept of comfort expands beyond those same walls and suddenly I’ve overcome the challenges I once faced; I’ve learned a different way of life.
THE DRAMA
There’s a reason why so many of us are addicted to reality television: the drama. But what if there was a way to experience it first hand instead of sitting on the couch?
I’m not talking about the “he said – she said” BS.
I’m talking about running through the airport as the gate to your next flight is closing and you hear your name paged throughout the terminal. Your heart starts to beat faster as you feel the endorphins releasing, your forehead starts to perspire and then you realize that it’s out of your hands. What’s the universe going to throw at you next? How are you going to deal with it?
If this sounds stressful to you, that’s because it is! It’s in those situations that you grow. You learn to cope with wherever you are, whoever you are with, and whatever is happening. A valuable skill to have in life, indeed.
When I think about drama, I can’t help but remember the time that I was sitting on a train in Morocco when it suddenly broke down. Not knowing any of the local dialect, my friends and I struggled to communicate with the woman that shared our compartment. As the train delay dragged on, the closer all of us became, eventually laughing the rest of the way to Marrakesh. A dramatic situation successfully turned into a lifelong memory!
THE PURE JOY
Yes, traveling makes you happy. That’s a well-documented fact. I’m not necessarily referring to the personal joy it brings (although it does bring plenty), but rather the joy you get to witness in every place you go.
When someone you’ve only just met on the street invites you into their home, encourages you to sit in their chair while they make themselves comfortable on the ground, and fills your stomach with a seemingly endless supply of food (all the while never asking for as much as a cent in return), it touches you. Witnessing the magnitude of joy and generosity they exude is contagious and you walk away a better person because of it.
So, let me sum it all up for you. My name is Chris and I have the best problem in the world: I love to travel.
What are some of your most memorable travel experiences? Let me know in the comments below and thanks for following along!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Hiking Cerro Ancon: Chasing views in Panama City, Panama
The very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb this hill. I think there’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective. It’s like watching a city pump blood through its veins and Cerro Ancon is the best vantage point you’ll find in this sprawling metropolis.
There’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective, so the very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb to the top of Cerro Ancon.
Standing atop this popular hill was the perfect place to get a better understanding of all that goes into making Panama City what it is today. It felt as though I was watching a city pump blood through its veins. What ran through the streets below is what gives this place life. What defines it. What keeps it functioning at such a high level.
Here’s what you can expect to find as you start the climb.
HOW TO GET TO CERRO ANCON
Cerro Ancon is about a 10-minute drive from Casco Viejo. It’s easy to hail a taxi or hop in an Uber ($2.50, depending on the starting point).
Mi Pueblito is a recognizable drop-off point for the trailhead. A small conglomerate of replica buildings from the Colonial era, it offers visitors the chance to explore exhibits throughout Panama’s history.
From there it’s a short walk up the road to the set of stairs on the right that will lead to the starting point.
Looking for more great Panama ideas? Check out these posts:
HIKING CERRO ANCON
The hike itself is also known as Ancon Hill and is a 654-foot high climb that overlooks all of Panama City. It was once used as an administration location for the Panama Canal and was even under U.S. control at one point, but was returned to Panamanian authorities in 1977.
Fun fact: Once the land was handed over, one of the first things the Panamanians did was fly the large flag so that it cast its glory over the entire city!
The hike takes around 30 minutes and is free for anyone to enjoy. Although there is a relatively steep incline, it’s gradual which makes this walk suitable for everyone. The hardest part was braving the humidity!
Don't be alarmed if you have to walk around a fence and past a guard hut... that's normal! You don’t need to stop and talk to anyone that may be in the hut, you can simply keep going. The gate was open when I was there, but I’ve read other accounts where it has been closed. It’s legal to walk through it and carry on your way.
Starting point for hiking Cerro Ancon
From there, start the trek into the lush vegetation, a stark difference from the slabs of concrete and high-rise buildings downtown. Cerro Ancon itself is a 106 acre jungle that is surrounded by a city of 1.2 million people. As you continue winding up the paved path, hanging vines cascade down from the trees and with views of the hustle and bustle of the city below every so often.
This goes without saying, but don’t forget to bring water, even if it’s early in the morning. The humidity and incline are no joke!
En route to the top of Cerro Ancon
CERRO ANCON VIEWPOINTS: WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE TOP
Upon reaching the the top, visitors will encounter a set of stairs on the left side of the road that leads to the first two view points. There are two viewpoints worth checking out here. The first looks down above Casco Viejo (the path to the left) while the second shares the expanse of the Panama Canal, Miraflores Locks, and the Bridge of the Americas (to the right).
The Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Looking out across the Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks from the top of Cerro Ancon
Once finished soaking up the scenery, keep heading towards the large flag of Panama. The hike is complete once you reach the locked gate. Have a seat on the park benches and enjoy the breathtaking views of Panama City and the Pacific Ocean.
In the shopping mood? More times than not there will be someone selling souvenirs. You’ve got to admire their dedication if they’re willing to walk all of their goods up there!
Pro Tip: Bathrooms conveniently located at the first two viewpoints.
Downtown Panama City as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Cerro Ancon was the perfect way to start the trip and is fun for all ages! Although visiting the Miraflores Locks was very educational, being able to watch the whole canal’s operation from above was something special. I’d encourage you to check it out for yourself!
Have you hiked Cerro Ancon before? Did I leave something out? Let me know in the comments below!
Stay safe & happy travels!
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Top 5 things to do in Boquete, Panama: A must-do guide to the cloud forest valley!
From ominous cloud forests to the world’s best coffee bean, the Panamanian town of Boquete has something to offer for everyone. Here are 5 of the top things to do in Boquete, Panama!
*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.
I won't typically play the favorites game… “What’s your favorite country?” “What was the best food you ate?” “Which part of your trip did you enjoy the most?” Nah, that’s not for me. Each place, each food, each person I talk with has a unique allure that adds to the experience.
With that being said, let me go ahead and step down from my soap box: I loved Boquete, Panama. The valley, the cloud forests, the coffee, the people, the weather… it truly had it all.
It could have been that I was over the humidity in Panama City, or maybe I was grateful to have made it alive after driving through flash thunderstorms on the PanAm Highway. Either way, I loved every second of the 3 days we spent here!
Disclaimer: Boquete is a well known location within the ex-pat community and is considered to be a top place to retire. Although not a problem, Boquete isn’t a place to visit under the notion of being “off the beaten path.”
WHERE TO STAY
From hostel to bed and breakfast or even farm-stays, Boquete offers a wide variety of accommodation options. Personally, I’d recommend the Villa Cascada Boquete. It’s simple, has everything you need, and most importantly is in the perfect location to base out of during your stay. Alyssa was a phenomenal host and we would stay there again in a heartbeat. Our favorite part was feeding the koi fish every morning on the patio!
Villa Cascada Boquete
TOP 5 THINGS TO DO:
1. GO FOR A HIKE
Hiking is a big reason why people visit the Chiriqui Provence in Panama. Although we were limited on time, we still managed to squeeze in three solid trails, each with their own unique experience.
The Pipeline Trail costs $5/pp and signing in and out at the trail head with whom we affectionately call the “keeper of the book” is mandatory. This helps to ensure everyone's safety.
The path cuts straight through the jungle, culminates at a cascading waterfall and is easy to navigate for any age. It’s also a well known trail for spotting Quetzales, the famous elusive bird in Panama.
La Piedra de Lino was a different story. Climbing 434 meters in just under a mile, this is far more strenuous, albeit rewarding, hike that offers expansive views of the valley below. Pro Tip: Go in the evening and enjoy the sunset from the peak.
Our third and final hike was one that we researched ourselves. After we found the GPS coordinates and satellite images, we decided to give it a go and ended up at Cascada Choclon.
Pipeline Trail
2. BECOME A COFFEE CONNOISSEUR
I’ve spent a good amount of time sipping on cappuccinos and downing espressos in Europe, so I felt as though I understood how a “good coffee” should taste. Boy was I wrong.
Boquete is home to Geisha coffee, widely known as the best coffee bean in the world. With a wild-flower aroma, the beans themselves can go for $600/lb. and a just a cup of it in Dubai can cost you a whopping $64! Mind. Blown.
Is it actually that amazing? Head over to La Viuda del Cafe and sip on a cup of this delectable brew for only $4. While there, pick up a jar of their coffee infused chocolate. You won’t be disappointed, I promise.
Take your bean knowledge one step further and sign up for a coffee plantation tour. There are plenty around the area, all varying in length, price, and time of day. If you’re on a time crunch then sign up for Cafe Ruiz’s Espresso Tour which costs $9 per person and runs 45 minutes. It’s the most bang-for-your-buck option we could find.
Geisha Coffee at La Viuda del Cafe
3. EAT AT OLGA’S
Don’t be surprised when you sit down to eat an old women wraps her arms around you and kisses you on the forehead. That’s Olga. She’s the best and you will feel right at home in her café. We actually adjusted our plans so that we could eat here on back-to-back mornings because we enjoyed the ambiance and food so much. I’d highly recommend the huevos rancheros! Pro Tip: The only menu available is hanging outside the entrance, so read carefully and choose wisely before grabbing a table.
If you’re not into Olga’s, Sabrasón is a budget friendly and authentic Panamanian cafeteria-style eatery. Two full plates for dinner cost about $8 and left our stomaches filled to the brim.
La Alemana is farther out of town, but the German-style café is worth the effort. Who wouldn’t want to enjoy a delicious apfelstreudel while gazing off into the distant jungle?
Regardless of your taste-buds or budget, there are plenty of places to chow down in Boquete. But seriously… go to Olga’s.
Huevos Rancheros at Olga’s
4. VISIT THE TUESDAY MARKET
If you’re looking to avoid the ex-pat scene, then this is where you might become a little annoyed. Yes, it’s filled with older American gentlemen selling foreign currency or watercolor paintings and you might hear the occasional “Hey Frank, how are the grandkids?” but it’s still worthwhile.
It’s a classic farmer’s market feel, just relocated to the middle of Panama. With a good selection of items to browse, we ended up doing all of our shopping here and it was much cheaper than back in Panama City. The market is open from 9am - 12pm every Tuesday. Pro Tip: Head to Olga’s for an early breakfast and then meander over to the market! It’s a perfect way to work off the meal.
5. GELATO FROM GELATERIA LA GHIOTTA
Ask around and any local will tell you that Gelateria La Ghiotta is the place in Boquete for gelato. Conveniently located on the main strip, it was too convenient to not stop and try a new flavor each time we passed by. A small cup with two scoops costs $1.50… talk about a steal!
Looking to upgrade your adventure gear? Here’s what came in handy while hiking in Panama!
BONUS: FARO PANAMA
You won’t miss Faro Panama if you’re driving into Boquete from David along Highway 41, mostly because it’s a giant red and white lighthouse situated in the middle of the Panamanian flatlands. Yes, you read that right; a lighthouse.
It’s the equivalent of a family fun center, offering visitors access to restaurants, dessert bars, playgrounds and, most importantly, spectacular 360-degree views of Volcan Baru and the surrounding area.
The facility had been fully operational for only 5 days during our visit, so I’d expect the popularity to continue to grow. It’s a prime spot to capture the perfect panoramic photograph!
Volcan Baru as seen from the top of Faro Panama
Although the drive from Panama City was a long 7 hours, it was a great as we passed through small towns, battled thunderstorms, and found roadside empanadas along the way. However you plan on getting to Boquete, just make sure you go!
As always, it’s my goal to provide you with everything you need to have an adventure of your own. If you’re looking for more information, don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments below!
Stay Safe & Happy Travels.
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48 Hours in Panama City: Where to stay and what to do!
So you’ve booked your tickets to Panama City and decided to opt for short stopover before continuing on elsewhere. No worries, that’s what I did, too. It was a bit overwhelming at first to plan as much as possible in such a limited amount of time, but this guide is here to help you collect your thoughts and point you in the right direction!
*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.
So you’ve booked your tickets to Panama City and decided to opt for a short stopover before continuing on elsewhere.
No worries, that’s what most people do and my girlfriend and I were no different on this last trip.
It was a bit overwhelming at first. The city is HUGE and a lot of our stress was stemming from the inevitable decision of where to base out of in order to see and do the most. But have no fear - the 48 hours guide is here!
WHERE TO STAY
The simple answer: Casco Viejo.
There’s a lot of information on the internet about neighborhoods to avoid in Panama City, and if you look on a map, Casco Viejo appears to be flanked by many, most notably El Chorillo and Calidonia. Many people prefer to stay in the “more secure” financial district, and that’s perfectly fine.
We chose Casco Viejo for a few reasons. To start with, it was easy to get around. There were only a couple of things that we wanted to do across town (Panama Viejo and Miraflores Locks), and those were just a short 20 minute Uber ride away. Everything else was in close proximity to the old town and our average Uber fare was $2.
The second reason was that it gave us the historical experience. Panama City is full of high rises, but by staying in Casco Viejo we surrounded ourselves with the rich history of how the city came to be.
Some people warn that the area is far too touristy. That may be the case during the day, but at night it comes alive as the neighborhood of choice for Panamanians to grab dinner and drinks.
Now that you know where to stay, here are the top 7 things to cram into your 48 hours in Panama City!
PANAMA VIEJO
On the opposite side of town from Casco Viejo, you will find Panama Viejo, the ORIGINAL Panama City.
Yes, Casco Viejo is known as the “Old Town,” however it wasn’t established until Captain Henry Morgan ransacked and pillaged the early settlement in 1671, forcing the citizens to abandon and re-build in modern-day Casco Viejo.
Panama Viejo itself was established in 1519 and is the oldest European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas.
It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and costs just $15 (as of 2019) to get up close and personal with the ruins. Pro tip: It’s a short walk from the ticketing booth to the ruins, but shuttles offer visitors free rides for those interested.
The ruins of Panama Viejo in Panama City, Panama
CERRO ANCON
Cerro Ancon is a short hike within the city limits that provides sweeping views over the city, Casco Viejo, and the Panama Canal.
Just a 10 minute Uber ride from the hotel in Casco Viejo, this short hike up a paved road acts a retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city below.
The climb itself only took around 30 minutes. There was a bit of an incline that probably felt a lot harder than it was because of the humidity, but the lush flora and fauna was more than worth the effort. Bring water!
Pro tip: Do the hike in the morning or evening and when you reach the first tower station, go RIGHT. You will have a perfect view of the Miraflores Locks, Bridge of the Americas, and the canal as a whole!
Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon in Panama City, Panama
PANAMA CITY SEASIDE WALK
If you want to go on a people-watching adventure, this is the place to do it. Simply by walking and observing you’ll be able to experience daily life as joggers fly by and families spend time together under the shade of the palm trees.
Need to cool off? Grab a shaved ice and get ready for that oh-so-sweet relief from the heat for just one dollar! Try the passion fruit. You won’t regret it. Pro Tip: This is an ideal spot for night photography of the downtown skyline!
View of downtown Panama City, Panama at night
MIRAFLORES LOCKS
I know there’s already A TON of information out there about visiting Miraflores, so I’ll keep this brief… make sure you go.
A short 20 minute Uber ride outside of the city and you’ll be dropped at the doors of the Miraflores Visitors Center. Inside you'll find a multi-story museum featuring the fascinating history and expansion of the canal, as well as the observation deck to watch ships pass through.
We paid $15 for an adult entrance fee. Non-resident children will cost $10 (ages 6-12). It’s worth spending a few hours learning why Panama City is BOOMING! Pro Tip: Plan your visit according to the ship schedule to ensure that you catch one passing through the locks.
A ship passes through the Miraflores Locks in Panama City, Panama
MERCADO DE MARISCOS
One of my favorite pastimes is wandering the local fish market of a coastal city in a foreign country. The myriad of noise and shouting, the chaos that is so intimidating and yet flows so perfectly, and the joy of finding a creature from the ocean that I've never seen is always a highlight.
The wholesale portion of the Mercado de Mariscos is open from 6:00am-5:00pm each day in the main building, but the outside restaurants are open until 10pm and make for an easy dinner (and cheap) dinner of fresh ceviche and a cold beer! A small cup will cost you $2-$4, depending on the seafood of choice. Pro Tip: Wake up early, walk along the Cinta Costera, and watch the fishing boats unload their catch of the day while the sun rises over the city.
EAT AT KWANG CHOW
I am a self-proclaimed dumpling-obsessed individual. As I continue traversing the globe to places like Japan and South Korea, I feel an unexplainable pull towards their food. As I was preparing for this trip and watching an episode of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods, I couldn’t help but feel that same pull to Kwang Chow’s.
With the completion of the canal construction in 1914, the world flocked to Panama City and as a result, the first ever Chinatown in the Western Hemisphere was established. Kwang Chow is the last remaining relic from that time. There are no more Asian markets, no trinkets to buy, or even people of Chinese descent wandering the streets.
Despite the changes, Kwang Chow has remained the same. The moment you step inside you are transported back in time to the 1900s and everything stands still. What better way to enjoy a delicious lunch?
CASCO VIEJO
What if I told you there was a neighborhood full of colorful colonial-style buildings and that Panama City isn’t all about finances and high-rises? Interested? Then be sure to explore Casco Viejo!
Wander the streets, discover colonial-era churches and ruins, hop in and out of the picture-perfect cafes, stroll along the city wall where you can shop for souvenirs, and more. Time passes slowly here... be sure to soak it all up!
Wandering the streets of Casco Viejo in Panama City, Panama
BONUS: AMADOR CAUSEWAY
A local favorite, the Amador Causeway connects four small islands and flanks the entrance to the Panama Canal in the Pacific Ocean. Rent bikes, visit the BioMuseum, or simply walk and enjoy the views of passing cargo ships and the city skyline. Pro Tip: Go at the right time of day to watch the sunset and stand in amazement as the city’s lights come alive!
We had a great time in Panama City and whatever you choose to do, I’m sure you will too! Need more information or have questions? Don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments below.
Stay safe & happy travels, my friends!
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Renting a Car in Panama: Here's what I wish I had known ahead of time
I can already see the eyes rolling around your head. “I know how to use Google, I know how to drive, I’m confident I can rent a car.” Well, that’s probably all true. Who am I to judge your driving? But renting a car in Panama isn’t as cut and dry as in other countries…
*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.
I can already see the eyes rolling around your head. “I know how to use Google, I know how to drive, I’m confident I can rent a car.” Who am I to judge your driving? But renting a car in Panama isn’t as cut and dry as in other countries. If you look online like we did, it might freak you out (or in our case, question our entire plan). The reality is it can be done and done well for that matter, but let’s back-up for just one second.
Heather and I have this tendency to book plane tickets mere days in advance and just wing it. Panama was no different. Three days out we found cheap flights and decided to send it down to Central America. We knew that we wanted to make it to Boquete and keep our budget tight. We decided that flying from Panama City to David and Bocos del Toro would hit our bank accounts a little too hard, so we decided to rent a car. We thought we had it all figured out, and then we started to read this thread on Trip Advisor. The more we read, the more doubtful we became. The stress and anxiety began to mount, but like any true adventure, we decided that rolling the dice was the best thing to do.
TRIP ADVISOR SUMMARY
Before you spend hours going down the proverbial rabbit hole on the internet as we did, let me sum up the Trip Advisor thread for you.
Renting a car from Tocumen International Airport is a disaster, especially from Hertz. You’re better off renting from National Car Rentals in the city.
The “Tocumen Banditos” are alive and well and prey on customers like a lion in the wild. They will find fake damage, knowing you have a flight to catch so you won’t put up much of a fight.
Accept the damage and contact Hertz from home, you say? Not a chance. You’ll get no help because Hertz USA has no control over Hertz Panama.
Have insurance coverage from your credit card? Not good enough. You’ll be forced into buying comprehensive.
People have shown up to rental car counters off of the estimate they receive online and are suddenly unable to afford the new price, ultimately walking away in tears (this one gave us the feels).
Crazy, right? If it were all true, it would be. But here’s how our experience went:
View of Panama City, Panama
BEFORE WE ARRIVED
Generally speaking, we tend to search for any opportunity to save a dime. Many times that strategy includes using credit card miles. Even if you don’t have any to spare, a quick internet search will show car deals starting at “just $5/day.” It might seem too good to be true at an initial glance, and that’s because it is.
Despite our instincts, we opted to use miles and booked with Hertz at Tocumen International Airport. We had no problems with the reservation process, but at the same time, there were no notifications that this was not the actual price.
AT TOCUMEN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
As we left the hotel that morning, we had prepared ourselves for battle going as far as calling the credit card company to verify their coverage. We were ready for anything that the rental agent could possibly throw at us. There was only one problem… it was as easy and smooth as possible.
Here are some things to keep in mind:
LIABILITY INSURANCE IS MANDATORY IN PANAMA
It’s a national law that all rental cars must carry a liability policy of $20,000. After doing our research, we expected this to be the case and at around $22/day for 7 days, it was consistent with everything we had read. This is where most people get tripped up. Liability coverage isn’t mandatory in many countries, so it is not included in the rates you find on Kayak, Priceline, etc. It’s completely understandable why people get upset… if you expect to pay $75 total and get charged $200+ when you show up, that’s a significant change (especially if you’re trying to use points to cover the cost). Pro tip: Do your research ahead of time. Ask around and know what to expect.
HERTZ ACCEPTED OUR CREDIT CARD COLLISION COVERAGE
If you read through the thread, you’ll see many stories about companies forcing customers into full policies, telling them that their credit card coverage isn’t valid. I’m not discounting those people, however our experience was much different. We were offered full collision, partial collision, or no collision in addition to the required liability policy. We chose “no collision” and they accepted our credit card coverage, no problem. Pro tip: It’s a good idea to talk to your card company ahead of time and print out a copy of the policy.
BE “THAT GUY”
We’re not normally the self-proclaimed Sherlock Holmes kind of people, searching the car for every little scratch with a flashlight, but in Panama we were. The Hertz agent had a form marked up already with the damage they identified and gave us an opportunity to go over it ourselves (joke was on him). We took full advantage, trying to minimize the risk for false damage claims when we dropped the car back off. By the end of our inspection, the form looked more like a paint-within-the-lines picture. Front, rear, roof… we covered it all and they accepted it, no questions asked. Every. Little. Thing. There were A LOT of things.
DRIVING IN PANAMA
Traveling by car is by far our preferred method of transportation, and Panama was no different. We experienced roads that curved their way through the cloud forest, empanada stands at the top of mountain passes, and so much more. After all, the journey is the adventure! Driving is simple, easy and fun. Panama City is chaotic, but nothing more than you’d expect from an extensive urban area. Traffic can get backed up though, so plan ahead! Pro tip: Download the Waze app. The directions are accurate, easy to follow, and Panamanians are religious about updating police locations so you can be sure to avoid the speed traps. We drove from Panama City, up to Boquete, over to Bocos del Toro, and back down to Tocumen with no problems at all.
Driving from Panama City to Boquete through the mountains
RETURNING THE CAR
Beyond the fear that our credit card insurance would be rejected, this part was our second biggest concern after reading all of the information on Trip Advisor. As we walked back into the arrivals hall to return the keys, we again braced for a battle. In reality, it was the easiest part of it all. We were told that tolls would be billed electronically (all tolls in Panama are electronic, so every car is equipped with the proper technology to handle that), and that a receipt would be emailed. After a couple of weeks of holding our breath, the final bill came with no signs of “fake damage.”
Looking for ideas of things to do in Panama? Be sure to check out these other posts:
PRICE BREAKDOWN
Online booking - $85 for 7 days (credit card points used)
Actual cost - $345 for 7 days with 2 drivers and mandatory liability insurance
Tolls - $11.95 (Tolls are only present on roads surrounding Panama City)
All in all if you do your research, know what to expect, and make an effort to really evaluate the car before you drive it off the lot then you should have no problems! Keep in mind that like any other country, things are constantly changing in Panama and although our experience was smooth and stress free, yours might different!
It’s my goal to provide you all with information to help you get out and see the world. Did this accomplish that? Let me know in the comments below and I hope you enjoy your Panamanian adventure!
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