Three Years Living in Africa: 10 Experiences I’ll Never Forget

After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the world…

Panoramic landscape from Africa reflecting three years of travel, nature, and life after relocating to Ghana.

Three years isn't a lifetime, but it's long enough for a place to change you. When I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved to Ghana in 2022, I expected a change of scenery, maybe an adventure here and there or at least a good story to come home and tell when I, what I figured would be inevitably, decided to return home.

What I didn't expect was how dramatically my perspective on travel, nature, and life would shift; how the journey would become much more impactful than the destination.

Looking back, these aren't necessarily the "best" places I've visited. They're simply the moments that have stayed with me the most.

Three Years, Ten Experiences That Changed Everything

10. Wechiau Hippo Community Sanctuary, Ghana

Imagine yourself in a dugout canoe with a single paddle, a rushing Volta River in one of the most remote parts of Northern Ghana, and a bloat of hippos staring you down while you hang onto the shoreline branches.

In Ghana’s Upper West Region, along the border with Burkina Faso, the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary protects a 40-kilometer stretch of the Black Volta River and the surrounding woodlands.

The muddy waters of the Black Volta River wind its way, separating Ghana and Burkina Faso in Upper West Region, Ghana

The flooded waters of the Black Volta River, separating Ghana (right) from Burkina Faso (left)

It’s not easy to reach; we managed to arrive after 3 days of driving endless dirt roads from the Eastern Region, but it was well worth the effort. We had spoken to someone who had visited the week prior, spent hours on the river, and didn’t manage to see a single hippopotamus.

As we entered the small house that doubled as a museum, our guides were excited to tell us they had just concluded a census and knew exactly where to look, so we hopped back in the car, picked up our boat captain at the next village en route to the river bank, and off we went. Within ten minutes of paddling against a heavy current, we found ourselves face to face with these majestic animals, nothing but a wooden canoe between us and turning into their afternoon snack.

It sounds a bit crazy, right? It was, but it was also raw and stripped down; the purest form of seeing these hippos in Ghana in their most wild state.

A bloat of hippos steadies themselves in the flooded Black Volta River, with one opening its mouth wide, while others just barely breach the muddy waters

A bloat of hippos in the flooded Black Volta River, part of the protected Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana

 

9. Lake Kivu, Rwanda

Central Africa had been brewing in my mind. Ever since reading Heart of Darkness in high school, the Congo and its mysteries have been tucked away into my subconscious. The longer I stay in Africa, the more I find myself daydreaming about it.

Traveling to Rwanda was a last-second decision, less than a week between booking the ticket and boarding the plane, so I didn’t have much planned beyond knowing I wanted to at least see the Congo, even if I couldn’t enter. Lake Kivu was the closest I could get.

Mt. Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, spews smoke into the air with a pastel sunset, as seen from a garden in Rwanda

Mount Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, with Lake Kivu in the foreground

Rwanda is a complex country with a dark history, having endured the 1994 Tutsi genocide. It’s a tiny nation filled with greenery and rolling hills, but one gets the sense of something “deeper” going on, and the truth is, the fallout from the genocide is a major driving force behind the current conflict in Eastern Congo, but I digress.

Lake Kivu straddles Rwanda and the Congo and sits at the base of active volcanoes with tectonic plates nearby. Why is this important? Large amounts of carbon dioxide and methane gas are trapped at the bottom, and scientists believe a volcanic eruption or earthquake may just be enough to shake the water levels and release the toxic gas.

One can’t deny the natural beauty, though. At the time of my visit, both the Rwandan and Congolese Governments were set to reopen the border at Gisenyi. I spent my time staring across Lake Kivu, into the Congo, and listening to stories from my Belgian host about growing up in Bukavu and her experience living in post-genocide Rwanda, and, of course, swimming in Lake Kivu, flanked by conflict to the west and volcanoes to the east.

A boat floats on Lake Kivu at sunset as a storm rolls in, shot looking towards the Democratic Republic of the Congo

Rwanda left me with more questions than answers. A country scarred by its unimaginable history, embroiled in regional conflict, and a lake that’s one natural event away from disaster - how much can one place endure? Time will tell. In the meantime, I’ll carry the stunning scenery of Lake Kivu with me for a long while.

 

8. São Tomé and Príncipe

The second smallest sovereign state in Africa, one of the least visited countries in the world, São Tomé and Príncipe is less than a two hour flight from Accra and, seemingly, a convenient place to explore for someone living in Ghana.

Although a short flight, São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t the easiest to visit. The country isn’t on the international banking system, which means credit cards don’t work outside of higher end hotels and most foreign debit cards aren’t accepted at ATMs. That means that a certain level of planning and foresight (neither are a strong suit of mine) are important to ensuring you don’t run out of cash during your stay.

A tiny, colorful fishing village of Porto Alegre in São Tomé is basked in the golden hour sun

Porto Alegre, a remote village on the southern part of São Tomé, is one of the more difficult places to reach on the island

A few torrential rain storms and an overheated rental car later, São Tomé treated me to unspoiled nature like I’ve never seen, highlighted by coastal drives, coffee plantations, and the majestic Pico Grande, a volcanic plug that dominates the interior landscape of the country.

Such low tourism numbers also come with poor infrastructure. Roads are often difficult to navigate, especially after rain, power and phone networks frequently cut out, and healthcare is challenging to access. São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t necessarily a place to vacation, rather a trip to see, experience, and be a part of.

It’s one of the few places I’ve traveled where I truly felt disconnected from the outside world, where being present was the norm, not the exception.

The sun sets over the island of São Tomẽ, adding a yellow glow to the tree tops with the rugged mountains in the background

The island of São Tomé is filled with unspoiled nature and landscapes

 

7. Liwonde National Park, Malawi

Liwonde National Park encompasses 54,000 hectares of land and stretches along the Shire River, making it one of the premier wildlife destinations in Malawi.

By day, the winding dirt roads yielded spectacular sightings: juvenile elephants attempting to assert their dominance, a cheetah digesting a fresh kill, and more.

As the scorching sun started to dip, I, along with the few other guests, clamored onto a boat and headed towards the Shire River.

Out in the open water, we quickly heard grunting, and a hippopotamus surfaced from below. Then another. And another. “Behind us”, our guide shouted as three more surfaced with a loud noise. “Look ahead,” another person said as five more appeared in the distance.

Two hippos breach the water of a dark blue Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi

Hippos breach the surface of the Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi

For a period of time, I didn’t know where to look. As we bobbed up and down in the boat, hippos kept coming and going, seemingly nonstop, so much so that I lost count. I later found out that Liwonde National Park is home to an estimated 2,500 of them!

We continued making our way through the traffic, approaching a family of elephants on the riverbank as they cooled themselves in the water with the evening glow perfectly illuminating the scene. Again, a splash of water, a grunt, and an exclamation: “more hippos, turn around”.

The sun paints the sky orange and illuminates the mountains along the flooded Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi

The sun sets along the flooded shores of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi

I had come across these majestic, yet volatile animals one other time before this trip, but never in this quantity and certainly not from the confines of a rickety boat with nowhere to go.

As we returned to camp at sunset, all I can remember was the feeling of peace and gratitude, ready for a good night’s sleep after a full day immersed in nature.

 

6. Sunrise Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa

Ever since whale watching in Kaikoura, New Zealand, I constantly find myself researching whale migration patterns anytime I take a trip that’s remotely near the coast. As it turns out, August is one of the peak viewing months for Southern Right Whales and the town of Hermanus, South Africa, located less than two hours' drive from Cape Town, is considered to be the whale watching capital of the world.

Too good to be true since I happened to have a month off work in August, right?

My thoughts exactly.

The orange sunrise illuminates the waters off the coast of Hermanus, South Africa

The morning light illuminates the bay in Hermanus, South Africa

Working with a small budget, I opted for the cheapest excursion I could find, which meant waking up at 4 am, bundling up in layers, sleepily making my way to the harbor, boarding a boat in the frigid dark, and heading out to the bay.

Soon enough, the orange glow of the sun warmed the cool South African winter morning as whales played in the waves around us.

Between an unbeatable sunrise scene and several whale sightings, this was one of the highlights of my time spent in South Africa, and an experience I won’t soon forget.

A Southern Right Whale breaches the surface in the morning glow of sunrise off the coast of Hermanus, South Africa

A whale breaches the water in the morning light in Hermanus, South Africa

 

5. Nyika National Park, Malawi

A quick internet search labels Nyika National Park as one of the most remote and hardest-to-get-to parts of Malawi.

Located in the Northeast of the country, the park itself spans into neighboring Zambia; however, it’s only accessible from the Malawian side.

Sitting on a plateau that rises to 2,600m, the name “Nyika” is derived from the phrase “where the water comes from.”

As Malawi’s largest, Nyika National Park is home to herds of zebra and is said (unsubstantiated in recent years), to have the highest density of leopards in Central Africa. From the logistics just to reach the entry gate to the unique and remote landscapes that awaited, I knew it was a must-visit.

Layers of rolling hills inside Nyika National Park in Malawi, the pockets of light penetrating a cloudy sky

The rolling hills of Nyika National Park are often compared to the Scottish Highlands

So, I made my way from Southern Malawi to the north, using any means necessary, from car to moto to public ferry (see MV Ilala below), and finishing with a shared taxi to Mzuzu. Here, I picked up my Toyota Fortuner and set off.

Each time I mentioned “Nyika” as my destination at the police checkpoints, the officer grinned and said, “car might not make it, good luck.” A normal human being might get deterred after the fifth time, but it simply made me more intrigued.

The further I drove, the more the roads narrowed, and I began to question Google Maps. This seemingly endless, single-lane dirt road with no one in sight isn’t the best way to reach the park, right?

Wrong.

Sure enough, after hours of contemplating the repercussions of bursting a tire or overheating the car alone in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, a small cluster of homes appeared and led to the gates of Nyika National Park.

To describe the park as remote is an understatement. So much so that a worker asked to hitch a ride to the campsite; otherwise, he would have to walk the 60km to work and hope that a ride passed by. As it turns out, my new friend was extremely helpful when the car bottomed out and got stuck in the dense mud tracks 30km into the park.

A zebra standing in the evening glow amidst the tall grass of Nyika National Park, Malawi

Zebras are one of the most dense animal populations inside Nyika National Park

I finally reached the campsite by nightfall, pitched my tent, dressed in every layer possible (admittedly, as I’m sure you can tell, I did not extensively research this trip before doing it and was severely underprepared), and settled in as one of three visitors in the entire 1250 square mile park.

The morning sun and campfire was a welcomed warmth to a shivering night. My guide walked me through the rolling hills, spotting herds of zebra along the way, before a solo mountain bike around the campsite in the evening.

I’m not sure if it was the nature itself or the effort it took to get there, but either way, Nyika National Park is a top thing to do in Malawi, as far as I’m concerned.

 

4. Togo’s Akodessawa Voodoo Market

Imagine you’re on the back of a motorbike in Lome, Togo. You arrive at your destination, step onto the sandy road with the afternoon sun beating down, and breathe in.

You nearly gag at the stench, turn a corner, and see an open space; stalls of dead animals line an open space, with a sculpture covered at the center, blackened by sundried blood sacrifices.

Welcome to Togo’s Akodessawa Fetish Market, the largest of its kind in the world.

For West Africans, it’s the one-stop shop for ingredients needed for the Voodoo religion, but for me, it was one of those moments that was a stark reminder of where I was in the world.

A blood sacrifice sculpture is stained black from the intense sun at the Akodessawa Fetish Market in Togo, West Africa, the largest of its kind in the world

Regular blood sacrifices turn the sculpture black from the sunlight

I didn’t quite know what I was getting myself into. The only concepts I had of Voodoo were dolls used as a source of revenge and curses, but, as I learned, the term “Black Magic” came with colonial roots. A way to fearmonger and create divide, to justify ongoing occupation of Africa.

Strolling around the market, we encountered everything from monkey tails to puppy heads, snake skin, and more. But what we didn’t find was anything “dark”. Instead, Voodoo priests consult with visitors on intrinsic desires, like ensuring safe travels, finding love, or obtaining financial security.

Needless to say, I went into this day with zero expectations, but came away with a deeper, more meaningful understanding and respect of the parts of West African culture that we don’t often learn about.

A seller displays his inventory of alligator skins, ox tails, sheeps heads, and more in the dusty Akodessawa Fetish Market in Lome, Togo

A dusty stall sells common ingredients for Fetish Priests, just one of many at Akodessawa Festish Market

 

3. Sani Pass, Lesotho and South Africa

As I planned for a month in South Africa, I kept coming back to the Sani Pass. A 9km stretch of tumultuous road descending from the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho and into South Africa, often described as one of the most thrilling 4x4 roads in the world, it’s commonly touted as the “Roof of Africa”.

What could possibly go wrong, right?

In this case, a failed 4x4 car rental, an adjusted itinerary, no phone working in Lesotho, and that’s just the beginning.

When the car rental agency said they couldn’t honor the 4x4 reservation, my brain immediately went to “how do I make this work?” I had planned to drive up the pass from South Africa into Lesotho, but surely coming down would be easier.

I took the next few hours to adjust my itinerary, working in reverse, and drove into Lesotho at another order before reaching the pass at the top.

A white car carefully navigates the winding road of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa

A car carefully navigates the start of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa

It was a windy morning, so much so that I could barely open the car door and stand up straight. I sat at the Sani Mountain Escape for hours, warming myself with a cup of coffee, watching vehicles struggle up the pass and constantly questioning myself and what I was about to do.

As the afternoon rush of tourists from the South African side entered the pub, it was now or never. I walked across the empty road into the Lesotho immigration shack, stamped my passport, got behind the wheel, and slowly started the solo descent in my Rav4.

Thirteen hairpin turns later, each with a comforting name such as “Suicide Bend” and “Devil’s Corner”, I hit the tar again on the South African side, stamped my passport, thanked my lucky stars for the experience, and carried on my way.

To this day, I still vividly hear the final words from the South African Immigration Officer at the bottom border: “This is a 4x4, right?”

“I think so,” I mumbled, before jumping back in the car and driving off.

Peering up from the South African side, green mountains yield to a steep slope, back up to the top of the "Roof of Africa" in Lesotho

A view from the bottom of the pass, in South Africa, and back up towards Lesotho, the “Roof of Africa”

 

2. Hiking Ghana’s Waterfalls

I’m ashamed to admit that I had been visiting Ghana since 2010 as part of Aya, a non-profit founded on the belief that everyone has the right to quality education. That meant that most of the time in the country was spent on hours-long busses between Accra and Berekum instead of exploring.

When I relocated in 2022, I settled in Ghana’s Eastern Region and was exposed to the natural beauty.

Part of the Akuapem-Togo mountain range stands tall above dense, green forest in Ghana

The Akuapem-Togo mountain range, as seen from Ghana, which makes up part of the border with Togo

Fast forward three years and some of my favorite places to explore are the mountains of the Volta Region, on the border with Togo. Not only will you find Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s tallest peak, here, but the area is also home to stunning waterfalls and hikes.

Nothing beats an early evening stroll to Wli Waterfalls or a morning hike and swim at Tagbo Falls. Make a weekend of it and unwind at Tagbo Falls Ecolodge, one of the best places for some rest and relaxation.

An aerial image of Tagbo Waterfall cascading into a pool below and surrounded by steep, lush canopy

Tagbo Falls as seen from above in Liati Wote, Ghana

 

1. MV Ilala Ferry, Lake Malawi

Many people ask “why Malawi,” and, to be honest, I don’t really have an answer. I had a month off from work, a flight credit to use, and Malawi fit the criteria of within budget, filled with nature, and plenty of unknowns. So, my response to this question ends up being “why not.”

One experience that I kept coming back to while researching the country was the MV Ilala.

This historic ferry was built in 1949 in Scotland and has since been ferrying passengers and cargo up and down the shores of Lake Malawi since its launch in 1951. Carrying up to 360 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, the MV Ilala runs the length of the lake, from Monkey Bay up to Chilumba near the Tanzanian border, on a weekly schedule.

Two fishing boats and it's passengers help load both cargo and people off the MV Ilala Ferry in Malawi before shuttling back to shore

Passengers help load both cargo and people into fishing boats below, the only way to get to shore at many ports

I needed a way to connect the southern part of my Malawi itinerary to Nyika National Park, and what better way to do that than spend 40 hours on a ferry, packed to the brim with 300+ new friends?

Skeptical that the email I sent a week in advance was enough to secure a cabin, I arrived in Monkey Bay early in the morning to a throng of people and cargo, waiting in line, and was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process.

Ticket in hand, I navigated the crowd and boarded, watching from the top deck as passengers loaded everything from mattresses to stoves, and more. Soon enough, we left the port and were on our way.

Many of the ports of call along the route are too shallow for the ferry to dock, so it was a shock to me when we dropped anchor and fishing boats came out to collect people and baggage, a stream of traffic climbing up and down the side of the ship.

At the second stop, one of the MV Ilala’s official shore boats stalled its engine and was left stranded bobbing up and down in the lake’s waves, signaling for help from shore. By the time that was solved, the weather had turned, winds picked up, and the captain was afraid of capsizing, so we stayed put off the shores of Senga Bay, effectively delaying our travel by 7+ hours.

The sun sets on Lake Malawi, as shot from the second deck of the MV Ilala Ferry as moves north along the lake

The sun sets along Lake Malawi as we dropped anchor and spent the night after winds picked up

After waking the next morning and wondering why it felt like we weren’t moving (in reality, because we weren’t), the captain cleared us to continue.

A fellow traveler and I decided to disembark at Likoma Island to stretch our legs. As the sun set, we made our way back to the port, elbowed our way into one of the wooden shuttle boats that were so deep you had to stand and use each other for support, before making our way back to the ship in the dark.

I’m convinced that re-boarding is a special skill, having to wait until the waves lift your boat up, grabbing hold of the railings at the right time, and hoisting yourself back onto the ferry with the help of people behind you making sure you don’t fall backwards.

A crowd of passengers climb on and off the MV Ilala Ferry, jumping from the side of the ship and into awaiting fishing boats to get to shore

Getting on and off the MV Ilala is often an adventure in itself, climbing from the side of the sip into awaiting fishing boats

On we went, eventually reaching Nkhata Bay at 3 am. I descended below deck to the massive crowd crush trying to disembark, tossed my bags into a waiting boat, and climbed through the dark to reach them. We finally made it to shore after 2+ days traveling Lake Malawi, I pitched my tent in the dead of night, and watched the MV Ilala Ferry pull out of port the next morning from shore.

An experience I won’t forget anytime soon.

 

Looking Back

I’m now on year four of living in West Africa, and although it’s taught me so much, there’s plenty more to learn and absorb.

This move and these experiences have brought a necessary shift in my perspective, a boost in resilience and adaptability, and, despite the chaos, a level of calmness I never experienced living in the United States.

Thanks for reading, and cheers to whatever adventures may lie ahead in this crazy life of ours.

What are some of your favorite travel stories? Share in the comments below and, until next time, stay safe & happy travels.


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15 Stunning South Africa Travel Photos To Inspire Your Next Trip

The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountain—and in that moment, I was hooked…

An elephant walking away from the camera at sunset in South Africa. This is the header image of a blog post about South Africa travel photos

The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountain—and in that moment, I was hooked.

Fast forward fifteen years. With a month off work and already situated on the African continent, there was only one place calling me back: South Africa.

It’s no secret that South Africa exists in a constant state of tension between its apartheid past and present-day realities. Townships still dot the outskirts of major cities, and crime rates continue to top the continent. But despite this complex backdrop, South Africa has a way of pulling you in—and refusing to let go.

From world-changing history, both evolutionary and geopolitical, and iconic wildlife to unforgettable safaris, dramatic coastlines, and vast landscapes, South Africa is one of the most visually striking countries in the world to photograph.

So, off I went—camera in hand.

Maybe these 15 stunning South Africa travel photos will inspire your next trip (fingers crossed).



1. Good morning, Cape Town

Location: Cape Town, South Africa - Table Mountain

Is there any secret as to why Cape Town is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful cities in the world for South Africa travel photography? All it takes is a window seat on approach into the airport to understand why. The magestic Table Mountain makes for one of the most unique city backdrops in the world, and is also a reason why it’s so hard to take a bad travel photo here.

This particular photograph was taken from the balcony of my apartment and it quickly became a daily ritual to watch the light move across Table Mountain on several crisp winter mornings.

Table Mountain in the morning glow of Cape Town, South Africa
 

2. Cape Town in Pastel: View from the Gardens

Location: The Gardens Neighborhood, Cape Town, South Africa

Not long after arriving in Cape Town, I fell ill and quickly realized I had brought a case of malaria with me from Ghana (don’t worry—South Africa is malaria-free). Each afternoon, the fever would break just long enough for me to get outside and explore.

The walking paths behind the Gardens neighborhood quickly became my go-to, and it’s easy to see why. Soft pastel buildings, quiet streets, and views toward Table Mountain make this one of my favorite spots in the city—and one of my favorite South Africa travel photos to date. For me, it perfectly captures the calm, colorful essence of Cape Town travel photography.

The sun sets over downtown Cape Town, South Africa
 

3. An Afternoon City Break in Cape Town’s Company’s Garden

Location: The Company’s Garden, Cape Town, South Africa

Despite visiting towards the end of the winter months, I stumbled upon one of my favorite Table Mountain viewing spots: The Company’s Rose Garden in the Central Business District.

Originally established in the 1650s to bring fresh supplies for ships passing through, the land now serves as a public park and the perfect spot for some stunning Cape Town travel photography, capturing city life in South Africa.

Once you’re done watching the birds and clouds (the “Tablecloth”) move in over Table Mountain, walk around the corner to Truth Coffee Roasting on Buitenkant Street for one of the best cups of coffee in your life (no embellishment necessary).

Clouds come in over Table Mountain in Cape Town, South Africa, as seen from The Company's Rose Garden
 

4. Golden Glow: Whale Watching in Hermanus

Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa

Every year, the quaint seaside town of Hermanus attracts so many visitors to Walker’s Bay that it’s commonly referred to as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World.”

After a month of solo-traveling around this incredible country, whale watching in Hermanus at sunrise was the experience of a lifetime that I hope to not soon forget.

The 5am wake up and freezing temperatures were worth it to capture this golden moment, one of my favorite travel photos from South Africa.

 

5. South Africa’s Nature Bath: Hermanus

Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa

The coastal landscapes are so pleasing to look at here that doctors once used to prescribe visits to Hermanus for recovering tuberculosis patients. The proof is in the medicine, right?

Even if getting out into the bay isn’t your cup of tea, there’s still plenty of South Africa’s nature to take in. Breathe a little easier and take the two hour drive from Cape Town. It’s worth the effort.

The mountains along Walker's Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
 

6. Golden Hour in Hermanus: Whales and Crashing Waves

Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa

No, I’m not done with Hermanus just yet. This travel photo lives rent-free in my mind so I wanted it in yours, too (you’re welcome).

Crashing waves, a golden sunrise, and whales rolling in the water. The coastal scenery provides all the recipe for a South Africa travel photography stunner, making a whale watching excursion in Hermanus a must-do activity.

The morning sun hits the waves in the bay of Hermanus, South Africa
 

7. Pure Bliss on the Hermanus Cliff Walk

Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa

If whale watching by boat isn’t for you there are still plenty of things to do in Hermanus, including a 12km cliff walk along the shore, making it easy to spot wildlife in the bay. The town even employs an official “Whale Crier”, blowing his conch every time one is spotted so you’ll never miss a beat.

 

8. Generational Differences: A Pilanesberg Safari Moment

Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa

A three hour drive from Johannesburg lies Pilanesberg National Park. Not nearly as vast as nearby Kruger, it serves as a smaller-scale safari for shorter trips.

On one of my final game drives, the jeep was nearly empty and we came across this scene: an older male “arguing” with a teen. Luckily we were the only ones there to bear witness.

Two elephants clash in Pilanesberg National Park, South Africa
 

9. The Spotter Becomes the Spotted in Pilanesberg National Park

Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa

Our guide pulled over after spotting a giraffe hidden behind the bush. As I fiddled with my camera, it slowly emerged and turned to face us at the perfect moment.

We quickly became “the spotted” on our game drive as the tables turned—creating one of my favorite South Africa travel photos, captured during a quiet safari moment in Pilanesberg.

A giraffe spots onlookers at Pilanesberg National Park in South Africa
 

10. “Giraffe Valley” Mornings

Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa

An unofficial nickname, the phrase “Giraffe Valley” quickly took hold during my stay at Black Rhino Game Lodge because every time we drove this particular area, we were greeted by several giraffes.

On this particular morning in the freezing cold, the sun hit the frost and mist just right to create this orange glow. We couldn’t find what this giraffe was staring out over the valley, but it never diverted its gaze.

A giraffe basks in the morning glow in Pilanesberg, South Africa
 

11. Into the Pilanesberg Sunset

Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa

Once the aforementioned generational scuffle ended, we were treated to this scene: both elephants rumbling off into the sunset. One of the more peaceful South Africa travel photos I was able to capture and my favorite Pilanesberg safari moments.

Elephants walk into the sunset at Pilanesberg National Park, South Africa

Here’s my go-to camera gear when traveling:


12. The Road to Nowhere in Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Location: Golden Gate Highlands National Park, Free State, South Africa

I had a gap in my plans during my South Africa roadtrip after visiting Pilanesberg National Park. One thing led to another and I ended up in nearby Clarens as a base to visit Tugela Falls via the infamous Chain Ladders Route, the second-highest waterfall in the world.

Long story short, a combination of poor planning, time of day, and weather nixed that hike. But the drive back to Clarens passed through Golden Gate Highlands National Park and I decided to pull off and do a short walk. I was treated to the stunning Free State landscapes, herds of wild zebra, and solitude. The afternoon was a lesson in following your gut: things will work out.

Open landscape of Golden Gate Highlands National Park in South Africa
 

13. The Perfect Stopover in Clarens, South Africa

Location: Clarens, Free State, South Africa

Clarens was never part of the plan, but it seemed a good home base for the next stage of my trip — driving into Lesotho.

Lined with cafes, breweries, and art galleries, this quaint town in South Africa’s Free State is also at the doorstep of jaw-dropping landscapes at neighboring Golden Gate Highlands National Park.

Hiking through the foothills in Clarens, South Africa
 

14. Toyota RAV4 vs. Sani Pass

Location: Sani Pass, Drakensberg Mountains, Lesoth-South Africa Border

Driving the Sani Pass was the top item to accomplish during my solo travel around South Africa, so when the rental company in Johannesburg couldn’t give me a 4x4 as was required to drive the road, I had a decision to make.

Do I skip it, or find a way?

That’s the story of how my trusted RAV4 and I (slowly) made our way down from Lesotho and back into South Africa along the infamous Sani Pass. The road was rough and the descent difficult, but the sweeping views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains were worth it.

The infamous Sani Pass as seen from below in South Africa
 

15. Unexpected Peace in KwaZulu-Natal

Location: Howick, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

From the Drakensberg Mountains, I made my way into the rolling hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands with the intention of visiting Nelson Mandela’s capture site.

What I found instead was unexpected calm—gentle landscapes, open skies, and endless greenery like Gray Mare’s Trail in nearby Karkloof Nature Reserve. It was a quiet reminder that some of the most peaceful moments of travel come when plans take a back seat

The rolling hills of the midlands in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
 

My solo travel started in Cape Town, often named the world’s most beautiful city by Time Out Magazine — and it’s easy to see why. Mountains, outdoor space, coffee, rich culture and endless diversity… you could leave me there and I’d be set for life.

But when you inevitably book that trip, push yourself beyond the city limits and into the far corners of the country. Discover the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Drakensberg Mountains. Drive the wide-open roads of the Free State and jump into South' Africa’s wildlife.

You won’t regret it.

In the meantime, I hope these 15 South Africa travel photos help to keep that wanderlust alive and offer a little inspiration for your next adventure.

Questions? Anything to add? Drop it in the comments below. Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!


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USA, travel, guide, North America Chris Toone USA, travel, guide, North America Chris Toone

Best Photography Spots in Chicago: Everywhere you need to go on your next trip to the Windy City

Skip the tourist trail and check out this comprehensive list of incredible spots to photography Chicago. From where to find the best city skyline views to which parking garages best capture the 'L' train, this is a must-have guide before your next trip!

Chicagoans enjoy a frigid evening walk on North Ave Beach with downtown Chicago in the background

As it turns out, moving to Chicago has been the perfect way to expand my photography skills. With the hustle and bustle of city life, the famous ‘L’ train weaving through the towering buildings, and the glistening shores of Lake Michigan to the east, there’s a unique perspective everywhere you look.

 Millennium Park and Michigan Ave are by far the most visited sites in this mid-western hub but trust me when I say there’s so much more to discover.

 Here’s a list of the best places to photograph Chicago.

NORTHERLY ISLAND

Northerly Island is a peninsula park along the shores of Lake Michigan that comes complete with city skyline views, including the iconic Soldier Field.

 Enjoy the fresh air and greenery as you combine your skilled nature shots with that of urban life.

 Fun Fact: The 5-acre lagoon is home to many of Illinois’ wildlife, including monarch butterflies and heron.

 Getting There: Red, orange, and green line trains to Roosevelt & walk from there

Solider Field stands in the foreground of Chicago's skyline, as photographed from Northerly Island

NORTH AVE. BEACH

 Located in Lincoln Park, this popular beach offers some of the best skyline scenery in the entire city. Walk the jetty, stick your toes in the sand, and snap some shots as daily life in Chicago moves all around you.

 Pro Tip: This is location is adjacent to the Lincoln Park Boardwalk (below), so it’s easy to combine the two shoots.

 Fun Fact: North Avenue Beach came into existence from a multi-million project in the 1930s that was partially funded by President Roosevelt’s New Deal. The beach itself is an extension of an old landfill’s narrow path along Lakeshore Drive.

 Getting There: Red, brown, or purple express lines to Fullerton & walk towards Lincoln Park

Walkers enjoy a winter day at North Ave Beach, one of the best photography spots in Chicago, Illinois

North Ave. Beach in Chicago, IL

ORLEANS ST. BRIDGE

 The most popular way to take advantage of this location is to shoot towards the Wells St. Bridge. This is one of my favorite scenes in the city that perfectly encapsulates life in Chicago; boats cruising along the river below, the brown line trains traversing across the river and stunning architecture rising high towards the sky.

 A unique feature of Chicago is that the city is constructed in a way that each building seems to command space of its own, demanding attention as an independent masterpiece. This location perfectly captures that.

 Pro Tip: Shooting towards the Wells St. Bridge is great, but don’t forget to turn around and check out the trains coming across the Lake St. Bridge as well.

 Fun Fact: The two leaves of the Wells St. Bridge were built offsite and then transported via the Chicago River for installation.

 Getting There: Blue, orange, pink, green, brown, and purple express lines to Clark/Lake or brown/purple line to Merchandise Mart

The El Train crosses Wells Street Bridge in downtown Chicago, Illinois

Downtown Chicago, IL

WELLS KINZIE GARAGE

 One of my favorite parts of living in the city is finding unique angles to capture the famed ‘L’ train. There’s no better shot than the S-curve in the downtown loop.

 Ride the elevator to the top of the Mart Parc Garage at the corner of Wells and Kinzie and watch the trains maneuver through the city’s infrastructure.

 Remember: each level of the garage offers a different perspective of the tracks. Be sure to spend some time exploring to find what works best for you!

 Fun Fact: In 2014, the “L” train was fourth in the nation for total route length at 102.8 miles.

 Getting There: Brown and purple express lines to Merchandise Mart

‘L’ Train long exposure photo taken from the Wells Kinzie parking garage in Chicago, Illinois

‘L’ Train in Chicago, IL

437 N. ORLEANS

 For the lesser-known view of the S-curve, head to the parking garage located at 437 N. Orleans. The top-level shows the trains as they head to/from the Merchandise Mart CTA station.

 Located near the Orleans St. Bridge (above), this makes for a great day of chasing trains.

 Pro Tip: For the symmetry enthusiasts, take note of the Assumption Catholic Church steeple against the red brick backdrop.

 Fun Fact: The oldest sections of the “L” train began operations in 1892, making it the country’s second-oldest rapid transit system behind New York City’s elevated rail system.

 Getting There: Brown or purple lines to Merchandise Mart

‘L’ Train as seen from 437 N. Orleans in Chicago

‘L’ Train as seen from 437 N. Orleans in Chicago


Need more ideas? Check out this list of curated tours!


PING TOM MEMORIAL PARK

 This is the first park I visited after moving to Chicago and it remains at the top of my favorites.

 Located in the Chinatown district, this is the perfect place to stock up on some warm buns and pastries, walk along the river, and shoot the city skyline. The boardwalk with the ornate rails helps to create some appealing leading lines.

Pro Tip: Ping Tom Memorial Park is commonly known as one of the best places to watch trains. Amtrak frequently crosses the bridge at the southern edge of the pathway while the CTA trains and freighters flank it to the east.

 Fun Fact: This 17.4-acre park was originally the site of a Chicago and Western Indiana Railroad yard. The area began its transformation into a green space in 1998.

 Getting There: Red line trains to Roosevelt or green line to Cermak-McCormick Place

Downtown Chicago as seen from Ping Tom Memorial Park, one of Chicago's best photography spots

Downtown Chicago as seen from Ping Tom Memorial Park

 18th STREET BRIDGE

 Another spectacular city skyline view is on the 18th Street Bridge, located just above Ping Tom Memorial Park. Point the camera up the South Branch of the Chicago River and behold the Windy City in all its glory.

 This is an especially great spot for nightscape photography.

 Fun Fact: With a 1967 construction date, the 18th Street Bridge is one of the youngest in all of Chicago.

 Getting There: Red line trains to Roosevelt or green line to Cermak-McCormick Place

Chicago skyline as captured from the 18th street bridge in Chicago’s Chinatown

Chicago skyline as captured from the 18th street bridge in Chicago’s Chinatown

 LINCOLN PARK BOARDWALK

The nature boardwalk at Lincoln Park makes for the perfect escape from the busy city streets. The pond is surrounded by prairie-style grass and is full of life with birds, frogs, and fish to name a few.

 This is a great place to not only photograph the urban nature scene, but the John Hancock Building as well.

 Pro Tip: Combine a visit here with North Ave Beach.

 Fun Fact: The Nature Boardwalk acts as a living laboratory for the Urban Wildlife Institute in Chicago as they test new techniques to resolve human-wildlife conflict.

 Getting There: Red, brown, or purple express line trains to Fullerton

Lincoln Park on an autumn day in Chicago, Illinois, one of the city's best spots for photography

Lincoln Park, Chicago

200 NORTH CLARK

 In a massive city full of high rises, this is the place where you can see straight to the horizon and it feels as though the trains below are riding off into the sunset.

 The reflective siding on the garage adds to the unique perspective and helps to create some stunning imagery.

 Fun Fact: In 2016, the “L” train had 1,492 cars transporting passengers between 145 stations.

 Getting There: Blue, green, pink, orange, brown, and purple express lines to Clark/Lake

The view from the parking garage at 200 N. Clark St. in downtown Chicago

The view from the parking garage at 200 N. Clark St. in downtown Chicago

WABASH ARTS CORRIDOR

Commonly referred to as the “living urban canvas” because new pieces are being added on an annual basis, the Wabash Arts Corridor is a unique collection of colorful murals.

 Stretching from as far north as Polk and as far south as Roosevelt, this is the perfect place to wander around with your camera. Be sure to check the website for more information, including a walking map of each masterpiece.

 One of the most popular works is the Moose Bubblegum Bubble by artist Jacob Watts.

 Pro-Tip: Start on the southern edge at Roosevelt and make your way north back into the city’s downtown loop.

 Fun Fact: The Wabash Arts Corridor was founded in 2013 by Columbia College and continues to grow into being one of the largest, unique, and accessible art projects in the country.

 Getting There: Red, orange, and green line trains to Roosevelt & walk north

Moose Bubblegum Bubble mural by artist Jacob Watts, located in the Wabash Arts Corridor in Chicago, Illinois

Moose Bubblegum Bubble mural by artist Jacob Watts

CHICAGO THEATER

 Ok, you caught me. I can feel you rolling your eyes.

 The vintage Chicago Theater sign isn’t exactly “off the beaten path”, but it does make for some pretty great long exposure shots and it’s a quick and easy stop on your tour of the city.

 Fun Fact: The Chicago Theater was the first large movie palace in America and quickly became the prototype for all others. Constructed in a French Baroque style, look closely at the theater’s exterior to see if you can find the miniature Arc de Triomphe.

 Getting There: Pink, green, brown, orange, and purple line express trains to State/Lake

Chicago Theater standing tall in the downtown traffic

Chicago Theater standing tall in the downtown traffic

The Chicago Theater shines bright in the snow

The Chicago Theater shines bright in the snow

The truth is you just need to come here yourself and wander around. Each neighborhood, train line, and person has something unique to offer!

Stay safe & happy travels.


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travel, USA, guide, North America Chris Toone travel, USA, guide, North America Chris Toone

5 of the most underrated waterfalls in Oregon

Although Multnomah may be the most popular waterfall in Oregon, the state is home to at least 237 others! Here’s a list of 5 of the most underrated waterfalls, deep within the verdant forests of this mystical place. It’s time to break out the hiking shoes for these incredible adventures!

A hiker stands underneath a waterfall in Oregon, United States

Please note: All information below is updated as of May 2023


Growing up just outside of Buffalo, New York, I had the luxury of being able to visit Niagara Falls whenever I wanted. Needless to say, with one of the seven natural wonders of the world in my backyard as a child, my standard for waterfalls may be a bit unfair - or so I thought!

Although Multnomah Falls may be the most well known and photographed waterfall in all of Oregon, the beaver state is home to over 230 others. It’s hard to find a hike in Central Oregon that doesn’t lead to a magical view of these natural wonders.

With a plethora of hidden gems all around, here are my top 5 most underrated waterfalls found in Oregon, USA. It’s time to break out the hiking shoes!



1. SHELLBURG FALLS

Located in the Santiam Foothills near Mehama, Oregon, Shellburg Falls is a 100ft tall cascading waterfall that flows over a stunning basalt ledge.

The hike starts by following a gravel road before entering the old-growth forest. Note: this road is private property and crosses through an open cattle range. Once you’ve reached a small bridge that crosses above Shellburg Creek, there will be stairs on the left that mark the beginning of the trail to the waterfall.

The path leads directly to Shellburg Falls and even takes hikers beneath the ledge and behind the flowing water, offering a unique perspective. Continue trekking through the forest and wildflowers before rejoining the gravel road at the other end of the loop. Pro Tip: Go early. This hike is easily accessible and good for all ages, making it heavily trafficked. 

Hiking Distance: 6.0mi loop trail

Elevation Gain: 1,036 feet

Rating: Easy to moderate

Fee: None

Bathrooms: Vault toilets are located at the Shellburg campground, approximately 0.6mi past the waterfall

Directions

2. OPAL CREEK WILDERNESS (SAWMILL FALLS)

This trail is currently listed as CLOSED.

The Opal Creek Wilderness trail is a 6.9mi loop near Lyons, Oregon. Surrounded by stunning cedar trees, the hike flanks the Little North Santiam River as it winds its way through an abandoned mining operation from over a century ago.

The real gem of this trail is the numerous cut-offs to various waterfalls and swimming holes along the way, the most beautiful of which is Sawmill Falls. Make sure to bring a swimsuit and take a dip in the beautiful blue water!

Hiking Distance: 4mi. out and back to Sawmill Falls, 6.9mi. loop through Jawbone Flats

Elevation Gain: 652 feet

Rating: Easy

Fee: $5.00

Bathrooms: Vault toilets located at trailhead parking lot and in Jawbone Flats

Directions

The turquoise waters of Sawmill Falls glow in the afternoon sun in the Opal Creek Wilderness

Sawmill Falls

3. ABIQUA FALLS

Abiqua Falls is an out and back 5.3mi trail located near Scotts Mills, Oregon that features a short hike through the forest and along a crystal clear river before reaching the 92ft. waterfall.

The trailhead can be found by following a single lane dirt road, with parking available in turnouts along the way. Continue following the road by foot as it descends deeper into the forest until reaching the trailhead. From here it’s a short 0.8mi. hike to the waterfall, but keep in mind the elevation gain becomes difficult on the way back out.

Keep telling yourself that it’s worth it because it is! If you’re daring like me, be sure to take a quick dip in the freezing, yet refreshing, pool below the falls. Note: The hike is on private property and can get steep at times. Exercise caution and be respectful.

Hiking Distance: 5.3mi. out and back (dependent on parking location), 0.8mi. to the waterfall from the trailhead

Elevation Gain: 1,397 feet

Rating: Hard (mostly due to the elevation gain on the way out)

Fee: None

Bathrooms: Not available

Directions

4. McDOWELL CREEK FALLS TRAIL (ROYAL TERRACE FALLS)

In search of a hidden wonder in Oregon? Look no further than McDowell Creek County Park, located 16mi. east of Lebanon. Here you’ll find McDowell Creek Falls Trail, a 1.8mi loop that leads to two beautiful waterfalls: Royal Terrace Falls and Majestic Falls.

Cascading a total of 119 feet between the two levels, Royal Terrace Falls was named from its unique terraced appearance, often found in royal palaces around the world. The trail itself winds its ways through the lush forest, taking hikers along bridges, stairs, and platforms, all providing the perfect views of the falls.

A great day trip for all ages!

Hiking Distance: 1.8mi. loop trail

Elevation Gain: 288 feet

Rating: Easy

Fee: None

Bathrooms: Not available

Directions

5. KOOSAH AND SAHALIE FALLS

Do you recognize any of the pictures below? Dig deep into the 90’s Disney movie vault… Sahalie Falls was featured in Homeward Bound! Still not ringing a bell? It’s ok - it’s still worth a visit!

The Waterfall Trail is a 2.6mi loop that runs adjacent to the McKenzie River as it winds past Koosah (70ft) and Sahalie (100ft) falls. 

Along the way, accessory paths veer off and provide viewpoints of the area that many hikers fail to experience, so make sure to wander a bit! The main trail is marked, making it easy to stay on course.   Pro Tip: Park at and start the hike from Koosah Falls instead of Sahalie. This lot is typically less congested. 

Hiking Distance: 2.6mi. loop trail

Elevation Gain: 357 feet

Rating: Easy

Fee: None

Bathrooms: Vault toilets are available at Sahalie Falls parking lot

Directions

Ready to get out and explore yet? Wherever you are the world, make sure to leave time for a new adventure and, if you ever find yourself in Oregon, be sure to check out one of these hikes!

Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.


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