Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Hiking Ghana's Tallest Mountain

Note: All information below is accurate as of April 2025

If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region.

When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven.

Standing at 885 meters (2,904 feet), Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s tallest mountain and offers stunning views of surrounding villages, verdant forests, and even neighboring Togo.

Even more, it’s located in a small, peaceful village with plenty of other trails and waterfalls to explore, including my favorite place to stay: Tagbo Falls Lodge.

Fancy a bit of outdoor adventure on your trip to Ghana? Mount Afadjato is for you!

The view of the Volta Region while hiking Mount Afadjato in Ghana

History and meaning of Mount Afadjato

Mount Afadjato derives its name from the Ewe word “Avadzeto,” meaning “at war with the bush.”

As the Ewe tribe settled here from Togo, they were prone to attacks from wild animals. The village revolted, pushing them back into the mountains but as they reached the forest, they were overcome by plants making them itch.

Afadja, Afadjato, it’s all the same! Another way to break it down in the Ewe language: ‘Afar’ means ‘war’, ‘dja’ means ‘plant’, and ‘to’ means ‘mountain.

Despite the name and history, I’m happy to report that the itching plants have since been tamed and it is very safe to hike the trails (but consider long pants, just in case)!

The area remains a symbol of pride for the Ewe people, as Mount Afadja is believed to house the spirits of their ancestors who look over and protect the surrounding communities.

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Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:

• Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

• A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana

• Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

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Location and how to get to Mount Afadjato

Nestled in the mountains that border Togo, the trailhead is located in the small village of Liati Wote in Ghana’s Volta Region. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to get to Mount Afadjato:

By Car:

From Accra, take the Accra–Hohoe road and follow signs to Liati Wote. The roads are well-maintained (for the most part), making the drive smooth and scenic as you wind through the mountains. The drive should take ~6 hours.

By Public Transport:

Buses and shared taxis from Accra to Hohoe are affordable. From Hohoe, hire a taxi or take a shared ride to Liati Wote. Another option is to take a tro-tro to Golokwati, but this often requires 2-3 changes in vehicles along the way.

From Nearby Attractions:

If you’re already exploring Wli Waterfalls or Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, Liati Wote is just a short drive away (20-40 min depending on where you’re coming from).

If you don’t want to plan your own transportation, consider one of these pre-arranged tours from Get Your Guide. They depart Accra and sort travel, food, and accommodations along the way!

Pro Tip: Whenever I can, I try to travel around Ghana on Sundays. Everyone is in church and this means much less traffic and dangers on the road – and I get to where I’m going quicker! I have my own car, but your safest option is to either rent or hire a reliable taxi. Although cheap, tro-tros (Ghana’s public transportation) are prone to breakdowns and accidents.

Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana’s Volta Region

Entrance fees & costs

Liati Wote markets itself as a tourist village (don’t worry, I was initially turned off by this as well, but it’s not what we’re used to when we see that tagline).

There are plenty of tours and options available around town, including multi-day hiking, local gin tours, and surrounding waterfalls, but be warned that each one requires a guide (this is used as a means to boost the local economy).

You can find a guide and look at the options available by checking in at the Liati Wote Toursim Office upon arrival, located at the base of Mount Afadja on the main road of town and typically open 8am, daily.

The tourism office accepts cash only, so come prepared as there are no ATMs within a one hour radius.

Hiking only Mount Afadjato requires a modest fee:

• Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

• Non-Ghanaians: 50 GHS (USD 3)

You can add on and combine with a trip to Tagbo Falls (GHS 40/USD 2.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 80/USD 5 for non Ghanaians), or continue past Mount Afadjato to Mount Aduadu (GHS 70/USD 4.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 100/USD 6.50 for non-Ghanaians).

A Note on Guide Fees: Guides for hiking Mount Afadjato and surrounding tours don’t get paid from trail fees, so come prepared to tip them for their service to support their income. For this hike, GHS 50-100 is reasonable (USD 3-6).

The trail fees do, however, contribute to maintaining the paths and supporting local community projects, such as their recycling initiative – something that is unique to this village!

Pro Tip: There are many guides and not many visitors, meaning it’s important to find one of quality. The only one I’ll use is Faith (+233 55 083 0914). I will meet him at the reception office, pay the entrance fee, give him a tip, and often he’ll let me take myself on the trail!

What to Expect: Hiking Mount Afadjato

Although Mount Afadjato is considered a popular tourist destination in Ghana, let me be direct with you: It’s not for everyone. The trail starts on a flat path, but quickly becomes a leg burner, what feels like a perpetual stair climber machine.

Most people will tell you it takes, on average, around 2 hours round trip, which I found to be accurate, but it was by no means easy. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water and fuel.

Along the way you’ll come across convenient rest stops with scenic views, offering the perfect spot to recharge your legs and observe surrounding wildlife.

Did you know that Ghana is home to over 860 species for butterflies? Don’t worry, I didn’t before moving here, but spotting them is one of my favorite parts of spending time in the Volta Region!

Finally, after 45min-1 hour you’ll reach the peak and soak up the sweeping views across Lake Volta, neighboring Togo, and Liati Wote below. You may even spot Togolese coffee farmers wandering the foohills!

The Volta Region is where both Kawa Moka and Jamestown, two of Ghana’s top coffee companies, produce their beans.

For the most part, the trail is well preserved and shorts and t-shirt will suffice, but if you’re planning to go beyond the peak to nearby Mount Aduadu as I did, be sure to wear long pants.

Reaching this secondary mountain requires bushwhacking lesser-frequented pathways and it’s not uncommon to come across snakes and biting ants.

View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

Nearby attractions

Tagbo Falls:

Located near Mount Afadjato, this tranquil waterfall is an excellent spot to cool off after your hike. I’d recommend climbing Afadja in the morning, and then continuing on (for an additional trail fee) to Tagbo Falls. It’s a flat, short, 40min hike and the trailheads start from the same location! It’s one on my favorite places to spend an afternoon swimming.

Wli Waterfalls:

Ghana’s highest and most famous waterfall is just a short drive away (20min) and offers another fantastic nature experience. Similar to Tagbo, this short trail is accessible to everyone and cooling off in the pool under the cascading water is a spiritual experience.

Amedzofe Village:

Amedzofe is Ghana’s highest-elevated settlement, originally established by the Germans during colonial times. The area offers cooler weather, more waterfalls, a better (and less frequented) canopy walk than Kakum National Park, and a small climb to the cross on top of Mt. Gemi. If coming from Ho, you’ll pass the turnoff for Amedzofe along the way (less than 1 hour from Liati Wote).

Best time to hike Mount Afadjato

The Harmattan, or dry season, (November to April) is the best time for hiking, as the trails are less muddy. However, the dust being blown from the Sahara can significantly reduce visibility (although makes for beautiful, glowing sunrise).

The rainy season (May to October) brings lush greenery, making the scenery even more vibrant, but the steep trail can get slippery, so be sure to wear proper footwear and plan accordingly.

Finally, beat the heat and hike Mount Afadjato in the morning. If arranged ahead of time, your guide can meet you at the tourist office before sunrise and you can start on the trail before fighting the humidity.

Top packing tips for your hike to Mount Afadjato

• Shoes are essential. Especially if planning to visit during rainy season. The trail is steep and can quickly become slippery, so it’s safest to have good treads.

• Sunscreen and insect repellent. The trail itself traverses dense forest, and the peak is completely exposed so you’ll have to plan for all elements. After years of sweating off my sunscreen in the humidity, I’ve finally switched over to using a stick instead and it’s been a gamechanger!

• A good camera. The top of Mount Afadjato provides some of the most stunning views in the area. If you’re into landscape photography, this is the place to come. Personally, my Canon 80d has been my best travel companion over the years.

• A quality dry bag. Hiking in West Africa can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. I’ll always bring my Marchway dry bag to protect my valuables.

• Don’t forget a quick-dry towel. Whether caught in the rains or planning to add on a visit to Tagbo Falls, a lightweight towel is the perfect item to add to your pack.

• Water and Fuel. Regardless of season or time of day, you’ll work hard to get to the top of Mount Afadjato. Come prepared with plenty of water and snacks. There aren’t many options available in town, but you can always also your guide where to pick up supplies.

• A reliable SIM card. Traveling outside of Accra is never easy and it pays to have a reliable in-country SIM. Recently, I’ve been using Airalo on my travels and, although I enjoy collects SIM cards, they take away the stress of losing it or always looking for a pin to open the port!

A view into the valley below, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

Standing on top of Ghana’s tallest mountain at sunrise is a scene I won’t soon forget. Accra is great, but experiencing the breathtaking nature in the Volta Region is a must during any visit to Ghana, and Liati Wote is the perfect place to base.

Explore, rest, and walk away refreshed from your time in these stunning mountains.

Have you conquered Mount Afadjato or plan to visit? Share your experience in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!

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Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa: Top Tips for an Unbeatable Experience

Note: All information is updated as of April 2025

Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life.

Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” as it’s sometimes referred to.

What once was a peaceful village, so much so that doctors used to prescribe visits for recovering tuberculosis patients, now attracts between 75,000 and 130,000 visitors every September/October to celebrate the return of the Southern Right Whales to the harbor.

Less than a two-hour drive from Cape Town, the question isn’t ‘why go’; rather, it’s ‘why not? ' After a month of solo travel around South Africa, Hermanus remains at the top of my list of places to return!

From majestic marine life to stunning coastal views, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your whale-watching trip in Hermanus.

The town of Hermanus, South Africa as seen from the Hermanus Cliff Walk

History of Hermanus, South Africa

Hermanus, a small coastal town in the Western Cape of South Africa, has long been a haven for southern right whales. These gentle giants migrate to the warm waters of the South African coastline between June and November to mate and calve, en route to warmer Mozambican waters.

The whales get their namesake, “Right”, simply by being labeled as the “right” whale to kill, nearly to the brink of extinction in the early 20th century. Still, these majestic creatures have been protected in South Africa since 1935 and have gradually increased their population.

Other species spotted in Walker’s Bay include Orcas, Humpback Whales, and Byrde’s Whales.

Whale watching originally began in Hermanus as a land-based activity, thanks to the incredible visibility from the town’s cliffs. In fact, the 12km cliff walk is still an easy (and free) way to spot the whales from the shore.

So much so, in 1992 Hermanus employed an official “Whale Crier” to sound a kelp horn and alert tourists to sightings. Yes, this still exists today, and the Hermanus Whale Crier is the only one of its kind in the world!

Fun fact: At one point, Hermanus and the town Whale Crier was so popular, that he was known as the second most photographed South African… behind Nelson Mandela.

Today, companies like Southern Right Charters offer eco-friendly boat tours that bring you closer to these magnificent creatures while respecting their natural habitat.

Sunrise over Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa

How to get to Hermanus, South Africa

The beauty in Hermanus is how conveniently located it is, about 120 km (75 miles) from Cape Town, making it an easy weekend getaway. Of course, a day trip works as well but when you arrive and feel the energy, you won’t want to leave.

By Car:

Drive along the scenic R43 route, which takes approximately 1.5–2 hours from Cape Town.

I rented a car, picking up and dropping off at Cape Town International Airport. A two-day rental from Alamo cost less than USD 90 and allowed me to explore more along the way. It was completely worth it.

By Shuttle or Tour:

Many tour operators offer guided transport options from Cape Town. Check out these reliable options from Get Your Guide if you’d like more relaxation, and less planning!

Pro tip: Opt for the car rental and pair the drive from Cape Town to Hermanus with stopovers at Cape of Good Hope and Boulders Beach to make the most of this scenic drive.

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Interested in more posts from South Africa? Don’t miss these posts:

• 15 Stunning South Africa Travel Photos to Inspire Your Next Adventure

• Sani Pass Self-Drive Adventure: Conquering South Africa’s toughest 4x4 road

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Whale Watching in Hermanus: What to expect

There are a limited number of tour operators licensed to move from Hermanus’ Harbor, so be sure to plan in advance during the peak whale-watching season. For my visit, I chose Southern Right Charters because I was trying to make the most of my time in town, and they offer a unique, 6:30am sunrise tour that no one else does.  

Southern Right is one of the most trusted and environmentally responsible companies for whale watching in Hermanus, having been in operation since 1999, so it seemed like a perfect fit (and it was). Here’s what you need to do before booking a tour:

Details & Costs

• Tour Duration:

  A trip can last anywhere between 1.5-3 hours, with most excursions averaging 2 hours. They don’t limit a trip based on time, rather it's based upon the best experience possible.

• Cost (as of April 2025):

  • Adults: R1440 (USD 75)

  • Students/Seniors: R1350 (USD 70)

  • Under 12: R720 (USD 40)

  • Under 3: Free

• Booking:

  It's best to reserve your spot online in advance, especially during peak season, however bookings can be made in person at their office.

Note: Remember this tour is about spotting wildlife and Southern Right Charters can’t control how many whales are seen. One of the perks of booking through this company is that they offer either a 50% refund or a free reservation on another tour if your trip is canceled, interrupted, or unsuccessful.

A Southern Right Whale breaches the waters of Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa

How to prepare for a Southern Right Charter tour

I visited in August and one thing I did NOT account for after living in West Africa for a year, was that it was winter in South Africa. That, combined with the 6:30am pre-sunrise departure, let’s just say I was grossly underprepared.

So, here’s your chance to learn from my mistakes!

Layer Up.

Both base layers and an outer layer to cut the wind. The trip sets off in the dark. Whether seated inside the catamaran or standing on the top deck, you’ll the crisp morning air. Needless to say, my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket was well worth the investment.

Pack gloves or hand warmers.

There’s nothing worse than spotting a whale rolling in the waves with the sun rising in the background and going to snap a photo with frozen fingers. The warm drinks that Southern Right Charters offers is a good start, but best to back a back-up plan. Here’s the power bank/electric warmer I never leave home without, because you don’t want your phone to die or hands to freeze as you get to take the photo of the year!

Any medications needed.

Yes, Southern Right has a boat that offers maximum stability, but this does not mean you won’t sill be rocking and rolling in the waves. If you get seasick, plan ahead. You don’t want to feel unwell on a magical experience like this! If you don’t like medication, try these anti-nausea bands that use acupressure. They were a lifesaver during my time on Semester at Sea!

Get there early.

Each trip starts with a required safety briefing. Don’t be that late shower that holds the group up. Get there ahead of the suggested time and be ready to go.

Overall, I’d highly recommend the sunrise tour as it was a unique experience to witness the whales rolling in the waves with sand dunes and the sun rising over the mountains as a backdrop. This trip was right up there on my list of top whale watch experiences, right alongside Kaikoura, New Zealand.

Of course, South Africa is far more than just whale watching so it’s important to plan ahead, do your research, and put together a comprehensive packing list!

Setting out with Southern Right Charters at sun rise for a whale watch excursion

Other ways to whale watch in Hermanus, South Africa

No problem! That’s where the Hermanus Cliff Walk comes into action. This 12km paved pathway winds its way along the rocky coastline, providing the ultimate viewpoints to whale watch from land.

Personally, I spent my morning with Southern Right Charters on the sunrise tour, and the rest of the day spotting Southern Right Whales breaching the waters from the cliff walk while popping in and out of cafes around town. It's hard to miss the whales with a reliable Whale Crier surveilling the bay!

Note: As the path is paved, most of the cliff walk is accessible to wheelchairs, making it easy for anyone to experience the magic of whale watching.  

A Southern Right Whale spotted from the Hermanus Cliff Walk in South Africa

Beyond whale whatcing in Hermanus

Although world famous thanks to the Southern Right Whales, Hermanus is more than just marine life with plenty to explore. Located on Market Square St. in the heart of town is the Old Harbor Market, a collection of handcrafts and locally made goods.

Spend an afternoon wandering the Whale Museum or hop between cozy coffee shops to slow down and enjoy village life (Platō Coffee is my favorite).

Looking for more activity and nature? Be sure to explore the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and all 60km of trails that zigzag through the mountains.

Where to stay for the best Hermanus experience

For my trip, I chose to stay at an Airbnb after finding this cozy place located just across the street from the Hermanus Cliff Walk. It was a perfect mix of peace and quiet while remaining within walking distance of the town center and a supermarket.

Other options include Hermanus Backpackers ($), Zzzone Boutique Hostel ($$), and Bamboo Guest House ($$$).

Pro Tip: Ever heard of load shedding? This is when planned power outages occur in South Africa to conserve the energy grid. After living in West Africa for nearly three years, it was a welcomed improvement to at least be told when the power would cut and for how long! Pay attention so you can be sure your devices are charged ahead of time.

Sunrise from the helm of Southern Right Charters tour in Hermanus, South Africa

A whale-watching trip in Hermanus is an unparalleled experience and at the top of my list of things to do in South Africa. Whether you're spotting these majestic creatures from the boat or enjoying the coastal walkway of Hermanus, this journey is well worth the short trip from Cape Town.

Have you been whale watching in Hermanus or elsewhere around the world? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!

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A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana

Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.

If you haven’t caught on yet, I’m a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.

Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!

Ghana’s Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo

Know Before You Go: Wli Waterfalls Background

Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.

Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. You’ll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.

So, now that you’re hooked, when’s the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.

Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.

In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but you’ll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, I’d choose the rainy season, but it’s a great place to spend an afternoon either way.

Finally, it’s important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).

Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!

Standing beneath Ghana’s Wli Waterfalls

How to get to Wli Waterfalls

Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.

To get here…

• By Car: From Accra, it’s about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).

• By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.

Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.

Entrance fees & costs

For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.

• Entry Fee (Lower Falls):

• Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

• Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)

• Upper Falls Guided Hikes:

• Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)

• Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)

Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.

Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghana’s economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.

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Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:

• Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Ghana’s Tallest Mountain

• Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

• Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

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What to expact at Wli Falls

Lower Falls

A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghana’s lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. You’ll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.

You’ll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch them flying off the rocks

Upper Falls

For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.

Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.

Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, you’ll be on your way back out!

Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana

Nearby places to visit

The Volta Region is full of amazing nature and experiences, so make your trip even more memorable by exploring more near Wli Waterfalls:

Amedzofe Canopy Walk:

A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where you’ll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.

Mount Afadja (Afadjato):

Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.

Tagbo Falls:

Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghana’s nature.

What to bring

• Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.

• Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you don’t plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghana’s heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.

• Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if there’s a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.

• Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!

• A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africa’s tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.

A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a trip—it’s an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether you’re splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, you’ll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.

Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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A Complete Guide to Visiting the World's Largest Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo

Note: All information below is updated as of March 2025, but as countries in West Africa rapidly change, so too can provided facts and figures.

A quick search for ‘things to do in Togo’ and it becomes clear; there’s not much happening with the tourism industry beyond the Grand Market in Lomé, the lush nature of Kpalimé, and the sleepy seaside town of Aneho.

It’s no wonder that one of the main tourist sites remains the Akodessawa Market, more commonly known as the Voodoo Market.

A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries, including in neighboring Benin where Voodoo is the official religion.

Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.

**NOTE: Photos below include dead animals. Proceed with caution!**

A vendor at the Akodessawa Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo sells ingredients

A brief history of Togo’s voodoo market

Voodoo, or Vodun, originated in West Africa and has deep roots in the region's spiritual practices. A form of animalism, the religion has over 40 different gods or fetiches, and each one chooses their feticheur or fetish priest with whom they communicate.

Guides at Akodessawa Market are quick to point out that ‘Black Magic’ isn’t bad. Although it’s widely practiced and holds a negative connotation, it stems from colonialism, as European colonizers felt the need to label these Indigenous spiritual practices. The term “black” was used to symbolize something negative about the locals, leveraging the fear of the unknown to further create division amongst the population.

Opening in 1863, this hub in Akodessawa has quickly become the world’s largest Voodoo market through a sort of “farm-to-table approach”. Most fetish markets only supply ingredients, requiring buyers to commute between priest locations whereas in Lomé, fetish priests are onsite to provide immediate guidance.

Whether you're searching for remedies, seeking a talisman, or need counsel from a fetish priest, the market provides an authentic dive into Voodoo culture. The guides emphasize that only “white magic” is practiced here, so don’t worry, the only purpose is to help and heal rather than hurt.

A shrine for Vodun Gou, or the Iron God, protects the market. Goat and sheep sacrifices produce the black color from the sun-dried blood.

How to get to Akodessawa Voodoo Market

The Voodoo Market is located in Akodessawa, a district of Lomé, the capital of Togo.

1. By Car/Taxi: From Lomé city center, it’s about a 15-minute drive to the market. Taxis are affordable and widely available.

2. By Moto-Taxi: For a more adventurous ride hop on a moto-taxi, the most efficient means of transport. When transiting through the busy Lomé port, my moto driver hopped onto the sidewalk and passed the stand-still traffic! Problem solved.

3. By Public Transport: Minibuses heading to Akodessawa can drop you off near the market.

Pro tip: Ask locals for directions or use navigation apps to avoid confusion, as the market isn’t always well-marked. Google Maps is accurate, whether using ‘Akodessawa Market’ or ‘Voodoo Market’.

Entrance fees & cost

There’s a small entrance fee of around 3,000 CFA francs (less than USD 5). A guide is required and although I don’t normally use one in this part of the world, it turned out to be the most important part of truly understanding what the fetish market is.

If you’re interested in purchasing souvenirs or talismans, prices can vary widely, so don’t be afraid to haggle.

Pro tip: A photography permit comes with an extra 2,000 CFA charge, a little more than USD 3 (it is said that this fee is “negotiated with the gods,” so prepare for some flexibility).

Dead animal parts for sale used to make powders and pastes by fetish priests

What to expect at West Africa’s largest voodoo market

To sum it up… prepare for sensory overload! One of the first things people note is the putrid smell, a combination of deceased animals with the scorching sun. Truthfully, it didn’t bug me all that much, but maybe that’s due to semesters spent in cadaver labs. Either way, know the possibility is there.

Upon entry, you’ll be asked to pay the small entrance cost, be greeted by your tour guide, and slowly make your way around the market. Statues of gods are dotted around the dusty, open lot while vendors with crocodile skin, monkey heads, dead cats, and more line the perimeter.

Unique to the market environment is that it is, first and foremost, a functioning local market, but also a thriving tourist site. The people arriving on motos are in search of ingredients for powders and cures, the people shuffling in and out of the priests’ shacks are there for spiritual guidance. The Akodessawa market is a rare mix between tourism and local life.

The most touristic part of the market? The makeshift voodoo dolls that are known to Westerners as the preconceived ‘black magic’, but no one is coming here to curse others and poke them in the chest. Rather, people are in search of love healing, fertility, and even blessings for safe travel.

Keep an open mind and respect the culture—this is not just a tourist attraction but a living, spiritual space. People often travel from neighboring Benin to buy supplies and consult with priests.

Once finished exploring the grounds, the guide will usher you into a shack where you'll meet with a local fetish priest and learn about different talismans. The four presented to me were for good luck, love, safe travels, and to help with bad dreams. In classic tourism fashion, the priest then asks if you wish to purchase any (for a far-too-expensive fee). Smart move, because who wants to haggle with a priest?

Pro tip: As noted above, this is a functional local market with religious significance. Be sure to ask permission before taking photographs.

Nearby attractions

Once done roaming the Voodoo Market, make the most of your trip to Togo by exploring these nearby attractions:

Lomé Grand Market:

A bustling marketplace where you can find everything from colorful fabrics to fresh produce. Arguably the most photographed spot in Togo, this is where you can glimpse the Sacred Heart Cathedral amidst the bustling streets.

Independence Monument:

A symbol of Togo’s independence, the monument is located in the heart of the city.

Togoville:

A historic town across Lake Togo, known as the birthplace of voodoo.

International Museum of the Gulf of Guinea:

An unassuming house filled with woodwork and art from around West Africa. A nominal fee is required to enter.

Aneho:

Where the sea meets Lake Togo’s estuary, this sleepy beach town is the perfect escape from city life and is conveniently located on the border with Benin.

Ingredients for sale in Lomé’s Akodessawa Market, Togo

A visit to Lomé’s Voodoo Market is an unforgettable journey into the heart of West African indigenous beliefs. Whether you’re a history buff, a curious traveler, or a spiritual seeker, this market promises a fascinating and immersive experience. Would I return? Absolutely. There's still so much to unpack and learn about this misrepresented part of the world.

Would you visit the Voodoo Market? Let me know in the comments below and as always, safe travels!

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Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghana’s economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.

Ten years. That’s the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and I’ll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.

The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.

Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.

Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.

View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato

How to get to Tagbo Falls

Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:

From Accra:

It’s about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accra’s Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.

Through Golokwati:

An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.

Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset

Hiking to Tagbo Falls & what to expect

Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means it’s important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.

The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless it’s rainy season.

The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.

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Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:

• Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Ghana’s Tallest Mountain

• A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana

• Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

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Here’s a breakdown of what to plan for:

• Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where you’ll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife – the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. It’s tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someone’s livelihood and it’s best to leave the trail as you found it.

• Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, you’ll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.

• The Waterfall: Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. There’s a sign post stating “No Swimming” but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that don’t know how to swim from trying.

• Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided.  That said, it’s also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.

  The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.

The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot

Packing tips & tricks for Tagbo Falls

• Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.

• Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.

Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.

• Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. It’s recommended to pack in everything you think you’ll need.

• Camera: The scenery is stunning, and you’ll want to capture the moment!

• Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. It’s also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway — I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!

Best time to visit Tagbo Falls

The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.

It’s hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls

Places to stay near Tagbo Falls

While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:

Wli Waterfalls Lodge:

Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.

Afadjato Guesthouse:

This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.

Tagbo Falls Lodge:

This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philomina’s stove-top bread with garlic butter!

Nearby Attractions

Mount Afadjato:

If you’re feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? It’s a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. There’s nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.

Wli Falls:

Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. It’s the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.

Amedzofe Canopy Walk:

About an hour’s drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghana’s highest elevated settlement. Here you’ll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. It’s definitely a spot worth checking out!

The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls

It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural landscapes.

Whether you’re a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.

So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!

In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!

Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!

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Exploring Mole National Park: Ghana’s Premier Wildlife Destination

Note: All information is up to date as October 2024 and is based around staying at the Mole Motel, however other accommodations exist within the park and are included in the post below.

Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve. Located in the northern part of the country, it offers a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. It’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for a unique safari experience.

After visiting Ghana for the past fifteen years and living here full-time for two, it’s a place that’s at the top of my list to not only bring visitors to but also myself to recharge and slow down!

An elephant is spotted on a morning game drive at Mole National Park in Ghana

History of Mole National Park

Established in 1958 and officially designated as a national park in 1971, Mole National Park covers approximately 4,849 square kilometers. It is home to over 90 mammal species, including elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, and antelopes. Depending on the park ranger, you may even hear a tale about the elusive lions that some say still roam the expansive interior forests. The park also boasts nearly 300 bird species, making it a hotspot for birdwatchers.

One of the Mole’s unique features is its year-round accessibility and the chance to observe elephants up close, especially during the dry season when they frequent waterholes. As one of West Africa’s best-preserved wildlife reserves, Mole National Park continues to attract travelers looking for an authentic African safari experience in a less commercialized setting.

I’ve visited the park in January, April, August, and December and have never been disappointed with wildlife viewing. Warthogs roam the motel grounds and even elephants come to say ‘hello’ at times. Careful of the baboons, though. They’ve been known to steal your food at the restaurant and open your room if it’s not locked — speaking from experience.

An antelope is spotted in the morning glow at Mole National Park - Ghana, West Africa

How to get to Ghana’s Mole National Park

Mole National Park is located in northern Ghana, approximately 150 kilometers from Tamale, the capital of the Northern Region. There are several ways to get there:

• By Air: The easiest way is to fly from Accra to Tamale Airport. From Tamale, a private vehicle can be arranged through your accommodations. Other options include a shared taxi or a bus to Mole, which takes around 3-4 hours. Note: things are spread apart in the northern areas of Ghana. The most efficient option is a private vehicle with driver that costs GHC 1,500 round trip.

• By Road: For those who prefer road travel, buses operate from Accra, Kumasi, and other major cities to Larabanga, the nearest town to the park. From Larabanga, it’s a short ride to Mole National Park.

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Don’t want to do the planning? Check out these top-rated tours:

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Entrance and Accommodation at Mole National Park

The beauty of Mole National Park lies in its affordable rates compared to other safari destinations in Africa. The entry fees are as follows:

• Ghanaian citizens: GHS 10–15 (approx. USD 1–2)

• Non-residents: GHS 40–60 (approx. USD 4–6)

*Discounts apply for children and students

Vehicles: Vehicles must also pay a nominal entrance fee into the park. This is the case even if a driver is dropping you off and will pick you in a few days. A Ghana registered car will cost GHC 5.00.

Accommodation: Mole offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets, all located within the park:

Mole Motel:

This budget-friendly option offers basic rooms and chalets with stunning views of the park’s watering holes, where elephants and other animals often gather. Rates start around USD 30–75 per night. A range of accommodations is available, from dorm rooms to chalets overlooking the watering hole.

Although basic and far from luxurious, most rooms include A/C and I can personally attest that they have made several improvements over the years. Plus, the whole point is to be outdoors and enjoy nature, right?

A restaurant and bar exists onsite and offers a wide variety of food, including pizzas, burgers, local foods, and even Chinese. If you’re looking for a truly northern Ghana experience, don't miss the guinea fowl. This tough meat is a Ghanaian favorite in that part of the country!

Mole Motel is a great place to bring a book, enjoy a Club beer, and relax by the pool while spotting elephants below. It’s one of my favorite places in Ghana to experience a sunset.

It’s not uncommon to see a family of warthogs grazing the grounds or elephants visiting the motel for breakfast! Sometimes the universe is in your favor and the wildlife comes to you.

Note: Although Mole Motel is listed as having wifi, the network is very unstable It works enough to send messages from your phone, depending on where you are, but I would not recommend coming here for remote work.

Zaina Lodge:

For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Zaina Lodge offers high-end accommodations with private tented chalets, an infinity pool, and premium services. Prices start at USD 300 per night and are inclusive of meals and game drives.

I haven’t stayed here because I prefer Mole Motel. Part of the charm of northern Ghana is the raw and remote wilderness, but I can see how a luxury place like this would be great for family vacations!

Camping:

For the more adventurous, camping facilities are available within the park near the ranger's station just outside of Mole Motel. You’ll need your own gear, and fees are approximately GHS 50 (USD 3) per night.

Mole Motel in Ghana as seen from the watering hole

What to expect at Mole National Park

Visiting Mole National Park provides an unforgettable safari experience without the crowds typical of other African reserves. The best times to visit are during the dry season (November to April), when animals congregate around water sources, making sightings easier.

Three of the most common activities in Mole National Park are walking safaris, game drives, and birdwatching:

Walking Safari:

Mole is one of the few national parks in Africa where you can go on a walking safari. Accompanied by armed rangers, you’ll explore the park on foot and get incredibly close to elephants, antelope, and more. Some level of fitness is required for this and it’s best to go early in the morning to avoid the heat.

If you don’t spot elephants on your trek, don’t worry. Rangers will happily take you back into the bush when they are spotted near the watering hole throughout the day (for an additional fee, of course).

The walking safaris are so cheap because all you pay for is a guide at an hourly rate (GHC 12 per hour for non-nationals). You read that right: a two-hour walking safari with elephants will cost you GHC 24, around USD 1.50. These occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm each day and no sign-up is required. Simply show up at the guard station!

Game Drives:

Open-top vehicle safaris offer a different perspective of the park, covering larger distances and giving you a better chance of spotting wildlife like warthogs, buffalo, and birds of prey.

There are day-time and night-time safari options, both with unique advantages. I’d recommend doing both as the drive in the dark gives unparalleled views of the stars and you’ll often see different animals such as bush babies, genet cats, owls, and more. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll see an elephant both during the day and night!

For small children and those with fitness concerns, driving is the more comfortable and accessible option.

Compared to a walking safari, the game drives are a bit more expensive as you must pay both the guide and vehicle fees. A safari-vehicle rental fee for both day and night is GHC 200 per hour and a guide fee for non-nationals at night is GHC 40 per hour while daytime is GHC 12 per hour.

This means a two-hour game drive during the day will cost you GHC 424, around USD 25, and at night GHC 480, or USD 30. If you make friends at motel, share a vehicle and lower the costs by splitting the vehicle fee between people.

Similar to walking safaris, game drives occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm daily, while night drives take place from 7pm-9pm.

Note: Book your night safari early at the guard station. These must be reserved in advance to ensure a vehicle is available.

Birdwatching:

Mole is a paradise for birdwatchers, with species such as the white-backed vulture, martial eagle, and saddle-billed stork commonly spotted. Birdwatching tours are also available for those keen to explore the avian diversity and can be enquired through Mole National Park’s website.

A Woodland Kingfisher is spotted with an elephant in the background - Mole National Park, Ghana

Things to do near Mole National Park in Ghana’s Northern Region

Mole National Park is a gateway to several other exciting destinations in northern Ghana and many visitors pair it with a cultural trip to the surrounding areas. Don’t be surprised if you’re approached by a tour guide at the motel; this is common practice!

Larabanga Mosque:

Just a 20-minute drive from Mole, this ancient mosque is an architectural gem and holds significant religious and historical importance in Ghana. Visitors can take guided tours to learn about its fascinating history, and explore community projects in the village like the local school and a shea butter-making process.

Mognori Eco-Village:

Located just outside the park, this community-run initiative offers visitors the chance to experience traditional village life. You can take a canoe safari along the Mole River or enjoy a cultural drumming and dancing session with the locals.

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Ready to explore more of Ghana’s natural beauty? Don’t miss these posts:

• Climbing Mount Afadjato: A guide to Ghana’s tallest mountain

• Tagbo Falls: A hiker’s guide to paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

• Exploring Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana: Everything you need to know

• Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

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Packing tips for Mole National Park

Make no mistake about it, although Mole National Park is a well-visited tourist destination, it’s still very remote and there are some important considerations when packing. Here’s what to bring:

• Cash — Credit cards are accepted at the Mole Motel and Restaurant (network dependent), but it’s cash-only to pay the park rangers for the safaris. There’s also a small provisions and gift shop which is also cash-only. Stop at an ATM in Tamale and pull out enough money for your visit.

• Medicine — You never know how your body will respond to different foods in remote areas. It’s best to pack basic medicines for stomach issues, allergies, and more. On one trip my friend was stung by a wasp, his eye swelled, and all we could do was “ice” it with the coldest water bottle we could find. There is a small health clinic in the nearby village within park borders, but don’t rely on this (speaking from experience)!

• Warm Clothes — If visiting in December, it gets cold at night which means the morning and night game drives will require you to bring layers. It sounds odd given Ghana’s equatorial location, but trust me when I say the last thing you want is to be on top of a safari vehicle shivering for two hours.

• Torch — When the sun goes down, it gets dark and the last thing you want to do is stumble upon a mother warthog grazing with her children. The grounds within the motel gates are small, but it’s still useful to have a torch to get back to your room after a few drinks at the bar to cap off a day of adventure.

• Portable Charger - This comes in handy for multiple reasons. You won’t want your phone dying on a safari just when you track down an elephant. If you have the right model, it also serves as a hand warmer for those cool savanna mornings and evenings.

A hazy December sunset overlooking the watering hole at Mole National Park in Ghana

Mole National Park offers a unique and tranquil safari experience, perfect for travelers who want to immerse themselves in nature and observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Whether walking alongside elephants or watching a sunset over the savannah from the lodge, Mole promises a serene and unforgettable adventure. With its affordable prices, accessible location, and nearby cultural attractions, it’s an essential stop on any Ghana travel itinerary.

Ready to explore Ghana’s wild side? Start planning your Mole National Park adventure today and check out more posts about this incredible country below!

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