Africa, outdoors, hiking, guide, travel, Ghana Chris Toone Africa, outdoors, hiking, guide, travel, Ghana Chris Toone

Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer...

A canopy walkway connects outposts at Amedzofe, Ghana, the country's highest elevated settlement

Please note: All info below is accurate as of September 2024

Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer.

Sounds like paradise, right? Here’s everything you need to know before a visit.

A hiker walks across the canopy walkway in Amedzofe, Ghana's highest elevated settlement

Canopy Walkway - Amedzofe, Ghana

History of Amedzofe

Amedzofe, the highest habitable settlement in Ghana, sits about 750 meters above sea level. Historically, it served as a strategic location for the Ewe people, providing a natural defense against attacks. During colonial times, German missionaries arrived and their influence is still visible today in the architecture, such as the iconic German-built Presbyterian Church. The area’s rich history is intertwined with its cultural heritage, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in learning about Ghana’s past.



How to get to Amedzofe

Amedzofe is approximately 2.5 to 3 hours by road from Accra, the capital of Ghana. Depending on traffic, it’s safer to plan for 4-5 hours of travel!

The best route is via the Accra-Ho road, which offers a smooth drive until you reach the scenic, winding roads that ascend the Amedzofe hills. Public transport is available, but if you're looking for convenience, renting a car or booking a private ride might be the best option.

The final stretch of the journey will treat you to breathtaking views of lush valleys, mountains, and distant villages.

If driving yourself, be aware that once entering Amedzofe the roads deteriorate. Mount Gemi is accessible, but many people choose to park elsewhere and take motobikes to the start of the canopy walkway, especially in rainy season.

 

Top things to do in Amedzofe, Ghana

  1. Mount Gemi:

    One of the town’s main attractions is Mount Gemi, a prominent peak that offers panoramic views of the Volta Region. Atop the mountain stands a stone cross, erected by German missionaries in the early 20th century. A short hike to the summit (~20 minutes) will reward you with sweeping vistas of the surrounding landscape, including Lake Volta on a clear day.

    At the top, you’ll find a cross that overlooks the village below. This is a sacred place to the community and it’s not uncommon to see people making pilgrimages to pray.

    Cost: 55 GHS (USD 3.50) for foreigners

    Note: Although Mt. Gemi is a hike, minimal fitness levels are required. Multiple routes of varying inclines exist, making this attraction suitable for everyone.

  2. Amedzofe Canopy Walk:

    Amedzofe is home to a beautiful, lesser-known waterfall that cascades gently into a natural pool. The short but steep hike to the waterfall is an adventure in itself, as you pass through verdant forests and enjoy the peaceful sounds of nature. Don’t forget your camera and swimsuit—this spot is perfect for capturing the tranquil beauty of Ghana’s natural wonders and bathing below the falls.

    If it’s between Kakum Canopy and Amedzofe, choose here. It’s far less trafficked and, as a result, the serenity of the surroundings are preserved.

    Cost: 75 GHS (USD 4.75) for foreigners. Discounts applied for students.

    Hours: The entrance building opens at 8am, 7 days a week. Get there early to have the entire place to yourself.

    Note: There is a required level of fitness for this as the path to the canopy walk leads to a steep descent of 259 steps.

  3. Explore Local Culture:

    Amedzofe is a culturally rich town, and visitors have the opportunity to interact with the friendly locals, learn about Ewe traditions, and explore the historical sites dotted around the town. The Presbyterian Church and old missionary quarters are great places to start, giving you a glimpse into the town's colonial past.

  4. Birdwatching and Nature Walks:

    The area around Amedzofe is a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The lush environment is home to a variety of bird species, including the colorful and rare African grey parrot. Guided nature walks can be arranged for visitors interested in learning more about the local flora and fauna through the local tourism board.

Amedzofe Canopy Walkway in Ghana, including Ote Waterfall

Canopy Walkway and Oti Falls, Amedzofe

Accommodation: Where to stay in Amedzofe

Accommodation is limited but affordable, with local guesthouses offering rooms for as little as GHS 100 (USD 8) per night.

Basic meals at local eateries will cost around GHS 15 to GHS 30 ($1 to USD 3), with more upscale options available in nearby towns like Ho.

Additionally, there are camping options, including equipment rentals, at Mt. Gemi.

Nearby Attractions

Less than an hour from Amedzofe lies the village of Liati Wote. This quiet spot near the border with Togo is another tranquil gateway into nature. Here you can climb Ghana’s tallest free-standing mountain (Mount Afadjato), hike to and swim at Tagbo Falls, or enjoy an afternoon eating some of the best food in the country at the Tagbo Falls Eco-Lodge as you relax in the courtyard. Another 45 minutes north leads to Wli, the home of West Africa’s tallest waterfall.

Other attractions:

Amedzofe from above. Ghana's highest elevated settlement.

Amedzofe, Ghana from above

Whether you’re hiking to the top of Mount Gemi, marveling at the cascading waterfall, or immersing yourself in local culture, Amedzofe is sure to leave a lasting impression. For those yearning for adventure and serenity, this charming town in the Volta Region promises to be a rewarding journey.

Pack your bags, hit the road, and leave the bustling streets of Accra, and the tourist trail, behind—Amedzofe awaits!


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guide, Africa, Ghana Chris Toone guide, Africa, Ghana Chris Toone

5 reasons why you should visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime

Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers. Maybe people don't want to walk with elephants or relax on unspoiled beaches. Whatever your reasons may be, here are 5 as to why everyone should visit Ghana at least once in their lifetime.

The fishing harbor in Cape Coast, Ghana is crowded with boats and nets

Please note: This post was updated as of December 2023

Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers.

I suppose, in a way, it can be quite overwhelming with too much nature to explore, too many foods to choose from, or a local culture too vibrant to step into.

Sounds terrible, right?

Here are 5 reasons that you should make time to visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime!

1. DIVERSE WILDLIFE

A one hour flight north of Accra to Tamale gives access to Mole National Park, the epicenter of Ghana’s wildlife.

Mole was the first National Park established throughout the country and covers 4,577 square kilometers of burnt orange savannah.

Once inside the park, visitors are transported into a world full of wildlife, including antelopes, bushbucks, monkeys, rare birds (most notably the white-backed vulture), and even leopards, although extremely rare.

It’s not uncommon to be wandering the grounds of the Mole Motel, only to stumble upon a family of warthogs grazing in the grass.

Don’t get distracted for too long though, as the pesky baboons aren’t shy about rummaging through your belongings. During my first visit, I zoned out at breakfast only to realize a baboon had jumped onto the table, stolen the toast and butter, and was cheekily consuming it 10 yards away.

What’s so special about Mole National Park, you ask? The elephants.

Yes, I failed to mention that it’s an elephant hot spot and a prime place for viewing these magnificent mammals between December and April.

Due to the lack of predators within the park’s boundaries, safaris can be done on foot when accompanied by an armed guard. This means that visitors can come within mere feet as elephants graze the savannah.

In total, Mole National Park encompasses 90 different species of mammals, 334 of birds, 33 of reptiles, and approximately 120 of butterflies.

It was a surreal experience, to say the least.

Other places of note include the Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary in Nkoranza and the remote Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary, tucked away in the Upper West Region along the border with Burkina Faso

Looking for a little more luxury? Check out Mole National Park’s Zaina Lodge. This all-inclusive resort comes complete with an infinity pool, fine dining, and games drives.

Safaris at Mole National Park include a walking tour, offering the chance to see elephants up close and personal

Walking with elephants at Mole National Park



2. VIBRANT CULTURE

Thailand might be known as the “land of smiles,” but I’m willing to cast my vote for Ghana to claim the title.

Upon landing in Accra, visitors will notice the positive vibes that are emitted from the locals as they smile and greet everyone that passes by. Don’t be surprised if you make a few friends on the streets and the two of you are suddenly chatting as childhood best friends do. It’s completely normal.

Ghanaians aren’t afraid to express themselves through any means and the perfect place to experience it all at once is Makola Market. Wander through the narrow paths as sellers shout their prices, negotiations become animated, and people move to the beat of the music that fills the air.

It’s no wonder everyone is so happy. In a sea of dust and smog, Ghana’s arts shine bright.

For proof, the stalls full of kente cloth goods at the Center for National Culture.

This vibrant cloth was once sacred amongst the Akan people, reserved for Kings and Queens to wear in times of great importance. Although it’s turned mainstream for the sake of souvenirs in Accra, the royal culture is alive and well in villages throughout the city.

Side note: When visiting a village it’s customary to present the elders with a bottle of schnapps. During one of my visits with Aya, we abided by this custom and he, in turn, presented us with a live goat. I’d like to think that he’s still happily roaming the fields of central Ghana where we set him free.

Whether dancing the night away with locals on the famed Labadi Beach or wandering the halls of the Artists Alliance Gallery in Accra, even the most introverted people can’t resist the vibrant culture in Ghana (I can personally attest).

Villagers perform traditional drumming and dancing in Senase, Ghana

Traditional drumming & dance performance in Senase, Ghana

 

3. DELICIOUS FOOD SCENE

Whether in search of traditional fare or cuisine from around the world, Ghana has got you covered.

Dive into a bowl of fufu, a ball of pounded cassava served with stew, or jollof rice, a mixture of tomato paste and rice that packs a punch with a pinch of habanero pepper.

Ghanaians are passionate about their jollof. So much so that a seemingly endless online debate has been taking place for years with Nigerians as to whose jollof rice is the best. For neutrality’s sake, I’m going to keep my mouth shut (but definitely have some while in Ghana, if you catch my drift).

Another personal favorite is the mouth-watering bofrot, the African version of a donut. It’s easy to find a street vendor selling this traditional fried snack on most corners, serving as a quick, easy, and cheap breakfast.

As vast as the traditional foods might be, the global food scene shines bright in the capital city of Accra.

Visit Burger & Relish in the lively neighborhood of Osu for arguably the country’s best burger or enjoy an evening at Santoku for an innovative Japanese experience.

Whatever your food preference may be, you can find it in Ghana.

A traditional bowl of fufu, often shared by everyone near by

Traditional Ghanaian fufu

 

4. DEEP HISTORY

Ghana’s vibrant culture becomes next-level when considering the dark and gut-wrenching past.

Today, 40 castles that formerly housed slaves before loading them onto ships bound for the New World dot the coastline. Of the 11 million to cross the Atlantic, most were taken to South America or the Caribbean but it is thought that around 500,000 Ghanaians disembarked in the United States.

Cape Coast Castle is the most popular of former slave sites to explore and provides visitors the opportunity to experience first-hand the suffocating, dark dungeons that housed 1,000 males and 500 females with minimal food and no sewage available.

The most chilling part of the experience is by far walking through the infamous “Door of No Return,” where slaves once took their final steps in their homeland before a life of labor elsewhere became the reality. That’s if they were fortunate enough to survive the ocean crossing.

It was on March 6th in 1957 when the resiliency of Ghanaian’s paid off and the country became the first sub-Saharan nation to gain independence.

Needless to say, there’s a long and storied history here and it begs to be explored. What better way to do so than to do it first-hand?

Cape Coast Castle looking towards the “Door of No Return”

Cape Coast Castle looking towards the “Door of No Return”

 

5. UNSPOILED NATURE

A 4.5-hour drive east of Accra lies Wli Falls, conveniently situated along the border with Togo. Cascading into a pool from 80 meters (262 feet) above, it’s West Africa’s largest waterfall and just a scratch on the surface of all that Ghana has to offer.

Hikers can climb to the top of Mount Afadjato (885 meters/ 2,903 feet) the highest peak in the country, while beachgoers can head south to Ada Foah and stay at the off-the-beaten-path Maranatha Beach Camp for some much-needed relaxation and fun in the sun.

Maranatha Beach Camp in Ada Foah, Ghana

Maranatha Beach Camp in Ada Foah, Ghana

If mountains and beaches don’t do it for you, then how about rainforest hiking?

Kakum National Park is located a short drive north of Cape Coast, Ghana and encompasses 360 square kilometers of the country’s rapidly receding vegetation.

It’s also the home to the famed canopy walk where visitors saunter between the treetops on a precariously placed piece of wood (it’s completely safe, I swear).

Forest elephants and bongo antelopes, both endangered, call this park home while guided hikes from the visitors center help hikers spot birds and butterflies.

Hiking, birdwatching, swimming, sunbathing; Ghana has it all.



Hopefully, by now you’re a bit better acquainted with all the beauty, both natural and cultural, that this West African nation holds.

If not, here’s the moral of the story: take a trip to Ghana. Explore it, live it, breathe it and enjoy the ride!

Have you ever been to Ghana before? What was your favorite part? Let me know in the comments below!

As always, stay safe & happy travels.


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guide, Africa, Ghana, West Africa Chris Toone guide, Africa, Ghana, West Africa Chris Toone

Staying at the Maranatha Beach Camp: Where the river meets the sea

Traveling through Ghana? Don't miss out on staying at the Marantha Beach Camp. Complete with thatched huts and a surplus of coconuts along a blissful stretch of sand, you'll fall asleep to the sound of the crashing waves after a day full of relaxation or adventure - whatever you choose!

A sand football court at Maranatha Beach Camp sits in the foreground, with palm trees above providing shade in Ghana

Please note: This post is updated as of December 2023

Have you ever found yourself scrolling through Instagram and stumbling upon someone else’s picture-perfect beach vacation, only to look up from your phone and realize it’s time to get back to work?

Me, too.

Luckily for all of the budget travelers in the world, there’s a magical place just outside of Accra, Ghana where the Volta River flows out to the Gulf of Guinea and palm trees provide shade to the tiny thatched huts that dot the coastline.

Welcome to the Maranatha Beach Camp where, quite literally, the river meets the sea.

THE HISTORY

Maranatha Beach Camp was founded by Winfred Dzinado back in 2005 and started as a one-man operation with only a couple of huts on a strip of sand in Ada-Foah, Ghana. Since that time, it has expanded to 30 available bungalows.

His motivation stemmed from a perceived need for the education of children within his community. Families had been neglecting to send their children to school because of the distance or required financial commitment, both common problems throughout the country.

As Winfred continued his business, he began using the profits to fund affordable and convenient education, starting with the construction of one small classroom and thus establishing the Maranatha Community School.

Today, the school now holds classes for children from 4-15 years old and is partially Government supported while the beach camp’s profits continue to pay for building upkeep and a few teacher salaries.

Needless to say, you can feel good about where your money is going!

Maranatha Beach Camp as seen from the water

Maranatha Beach Camp as seen from the water

BOOKING

The beauty of the Maranatha Beach Camp is that you won’t find it on any booking site. Outside of reviews on TripAdvisor, there’s really not a whole lot of information out there, which only adds to the allure of this isolated oasis.

Don’t worry, I can see your confusion. If there’s no information available, then how does one book accommodation?

Send an e-mail request. Once a response is received, you’re good to go! That’s all it takes.

There is no online payment processing and no deposits necessary. Simply show up and pay on site in cash.

GETTING THERE

The first step in reaching the beach camp is to find your way to the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. This can be accomplished by either private taxi from Accra or using the public transportation system, commonly referred to as Tro-Tros (find the van heading to Ada-Foah from the Tudu Station in Accra).

After the 2 hour drive east from the capital, you can either hire a motorbike to Maranatha and walk the rest of the way through the town (the walk is across the sand, so it’s not ideal if you’re dragging large suitcases) or you can arrange to be picked up by boat (additional charge per person).

If opting for the latter, it’s best to arrange it through the beach camp prior to arrival in order to save money. Other people will offer their boat services once you arrive in Ada-Foah, but these will typically be a bit more expensive.

Staying at the Maranatha Beach Camp often includes a boat transfer along the Volta River in Ghana

Arriving via fishing boat

THE ACCOMMODATION

It’s important to keep things in perspective when talking about what’s available. Maranatha Beach Camp is off the beaten track, comprised of thatched huts on the beach, and is relatively isolated meaning that electricity and running water are scarce.

Does that mean you should stay away? Absolutely not. It’s just important that you know what to expect before you show up with a mental image of a pristine beachfront cabana.

With that being said, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall quality and cleanliness. It’s clear that Winfred and his staff care deeply about what has been built and it shows in how they maintain and continuously improve their facilities!

Rooms (prices as of 2023):

It’s almost inconceivable how affordable room rates are, making it a great place to visit for any budget traveler. Here’s the gist:

  • Sand Floor Rooms: 60-100 GHC per night

  • Turtle Lodge Rooms (enclosed with solid floor): 100-200 GHC per night

  • VIP room with washroom: 250 GHC per night

Keep in mind that each hut is mere feet away from the water’s edge. There’s no such thing as a “good or bad location” here.

Facilities:

Communal vault toilets and bucket showers are available and cleaned daily. It’s not luxury by any means, but trust me when I say that guests have everything they need.

A small soccer pitch and volleyball court have been drawn out in the sand and there are plenty of games to play and hammocks to lounge in throughout the day.

Food and drinks are available by cash purchases at the restaurant/bar on site. Everything is sourced locally and is very affordable, so you won’t break the bank by eating 3 meals a day.

Beach huts dot the beach along the soccer pitch

Beach huts dot the beach along the soccer pitch

WHAT TO EXPECT

Maranatha Beach Camp isn’t just a hangout for foreigners, but it’s a local hotspot as well! You’re just as likely to meet fellow travelers from around the world as you are to converse with people from the surrounding communities, especially on the weekends.

Upon arrival, you'll be offered the chance to tour the Maranatha Community School. Take it. It’s a great way to learn about the history of the operation and will shed new light on just what the beach camp means to the community.

The daytime atmosphere is laid back and friendly. Lounge in a hammock as local vendors pass through with fresh coconuts, start a game of volleyball, swim in the Volta River (much calmer than the Gulf of Guinea) or, if visiting on the weekend, dance the night away around the infamous beach bonfire.

It’s also possible to organize a boat tour around the Volta Estuary to places like Rum Island, where locally sourced sugar cane is turned into this satisfying spirit. The Volta River is an important part of Eastern Ghana, and spending some time cruising around is a great way to gain insight as to just how vital of a role it plays in sustaining life.

As the day ends, grab a cold beer while sunset illuminates the sky. One of my favorite things to do in the evenings is simply to sit on the beach and watch the twinkling lights of passing ships as they move across the horizon. My body may relax, but my mind never stops wandering!



IMPORTANT TIPS

Charge electronics ahead of time: With limited electricity, it’s important to make sure larger electronics you plan on using have full juice ahead of time (i.e. a camera). A portable power bank is a great item to pack for smaller gadgets!

Overestimate cash needed: Maranatha Beach Camp is a cash-only establishment. Normally this wouldn’t mean much except there are no ATMs available in the area. It’s important to bring enough money for accommodation, transportation, meal costs, extra boat tours, drinks at the bar, etc.

During one of my visits, I was forced to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra because I had no more cash in my pockets and wouldn’t have been able to pay for the ride!

Bring supplemental snacks: This is especially important if you are a vegan. Although food is fresh and available at the restaurant, it can be difficult to find something to fit that specific dietary need. Make sure to shop ahead of time as, like ATMs, there are no supermarkets to be found.

Plan on buying goods: Whether a bottle of local sugar cane rum or handmade jewelry from a vendor on the beach, plan on at least having the opportunity to purchase some sort of souvenir and factor that into your cash withdrawal.

WORTH IT?

Absolutely.

The friendly atmosphere is second to none and it’s a great opportunity to engage with the local community.

Most visitors spend 2-3 days here and leave feeling rested and relaxed, but if you’re in search of a longer escape then it may be worthwhile to learn about the community’s organized volunteer programs.

Either way, next time you find yourself in Ghana, make the effort to visit the Maranatha Beach Camp!


It’s certainly not the easiest of places to reach, but the most beautiful ones never are and I won’t soon forget this little slice of paradise.

So, are you ready to claim your very own beach bungalow and unwind for a few nights? I know I am!

Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!


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