Three Years Living in Africa: 10 Experiences Iโll Never Forget
After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the worldโฆ
Three years isn't a lifetime, but it's long enough for a place to change you. When I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved to Ghana in 2022, I expected a change of scenery, maybe an adventure here and there or at least a good story to come home and tell when I, what I figured would be inevitably, decided to return home.
What I didn't expect was how dramatically my perspective on travel, nature, and life would shift; how the journey would become much more impactful than the destination.
Looking back, these aren't necessarily the "best" places I've visited. They're simply the moments that have stayed with me the most.
Three Years, Ten Experiences That Changed Everything
10. Wechiau Hippo Community Sanctuary, Ghana
Imagine yourself in a dugout canoe with a single paddle, a rushing Volta River in one of the most remote parts of Northern Ghana, and a bloat of hippos staring you down while you hang onto the shoreline branches.
In Ghanaโs Upper West Region, along the border with Burkina Faso, the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary protects a 40-kilometer stretch of the Black Volta River and the surrounding woodlands.
The flooded waters of the Black Volta River, separating Ghana (right) from Burkina Faso (left)
Itโs not easy to reach; we managed to arrive after 3 days of driving endless dirt roads from the Eastern Region, but it was well worth the effort. We had spoken to someone who had visited the week prior, spent hours on the river, and didnโt manage to see a single hippopotamus.
As we entered the small house that doubled as a museum, our guides were excited to tell us they had just concluded a census and knew exactly where to look, so we hopped back in the car, picked up our boat captain at the next village en route to the river bank, and off we went. Within ten minutes of paddling against a heavy current, we found ourselves face to face with these majestic animals, nothing but a wooden canoe between us and turning into their afternoon snack.
It sounds a bit crazy, right? It was, but it was also raw and stripped down; the purest form of seeing these hippos in Ghana in their most wild state.
A bloat of hippos in the flooded Black Volta River, part of the protected Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana
9. Lake Kivu, Rwanda
Central Africa had been brewing in my mind. Ever since reading Heart of Darkness in high school, the Congo and its mysteries have been tucked away into my subconscious. The longer I stay in Africa, the more I find myself daydreaming about it.
Traveling to Rwanda was a last-second decision, less than a week between booking the ticket and boarding the plane, so I didnโt have much planned beyond knowing I wanted to at least see the Congo, even if I couldnโt enter. Lake Kivu was the closest I could get.
Mount Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, with Lake Kivu in the foreground
Rwanda is a complex country with a dark history, having endured the 1994 Tutsi genocide. Itโs a tiny nation filled with greenery and rolling hills, but one gets the sense of something โdeeperโ going on, and the truth is, the fallout from the genocide is a major driving force behind the current conflict in Eastern Congo, but I digress.
Lake Kivu straddles Rwanda and the Congo and sits at the base of active volcanoes with tectonic plates nearby. Why is this important? Large amounts of carbon dioxide and methane gas are trapped at the bottom, and scientists believe a volcanic eruption or earthquake may just be enough to shake the water levels and release the toxic gas.
One canโt deny the natural beauty, though. At the time of my visit, both the Rwandan and Congolese Governments were set to reopen the border at Gisenyi. I spent my time staring across Lake Kivu, into the Congo, and listening to stories from my Belgian host about growing up in Bukavu and her experience living in post-genocide Rwanda, and, of course, swimming in Lake Kivu, flanked by conflict to the west and volcanoes to the east.
A boat floats on Lake Kivu at sunset as a storm rolls in, shot looking towards the Democratic Republic of the Congo
Rwanda left me with more questions than answers. A country scarred by its unimaginable history, embroiled in regional conflict, and a lake thatโs one natural event away from disaster - how much can one place endure? Time will tell. In the meantime, Iโll carry the stunning scenery of Lake Kivu with me for a long while.
8. Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe
The second smallest sovereign state in Africa, one of the least visited countries in the world, Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe is less than a two hour flight from Accra and, seemingly, a convenient place to explore for someone living in Ghana.
Although a short flight, Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe isnโt the easiest to visit. The country isnโt on the international banking system, which means credit cards donโt work outside of higher end hotels and most foreign debit cards arenโt accepted at ATMs. That means that a certain level of planning and foresight (neither are a strong suit of mine) are important to ensuring you donโt run out of cash during your stay.
Porto Alegre, a remote village on the southern part of Sรฃo Tomรฉ, is one of the more difficult places to reach on the island
A few torrential rain storms and an overheated rental car later, Sรฃo Tomรฉ treated me to unspoiled nature like Iโve never seen, highlighted by coastal drives, coffee plantations, and the majestic Pico Grande, a volcanic plug that dominates the interior landscape of the country.
Such low tourism numbers also come with poor infrastructure. Roads are often difficult to navigate, especially after rain, power and phone networks frequently cut out, and healthcare is challenging to access. Sรฃo Tomรฉ and Prรญncipe isnโt necessarily a place to vacation, rather a trip to see, experience, and be a part of.
Itโs one of the few places Iโve traveled where I truly felt disconnected from the outside world, where being present was the norm, not the exception.
The island of Sรฃo Tomรฉ is filled with unspoiled nature and landscapes
7. Liwonde National Park, Malawi
Liwonde National Park encompasses 54,000 hectares of land and stretches along the Shire River, making it one of the premier wildlife destinations in Malawi.
By day, the winding dirt roads yielded spectacular sightings: juvenile elephants attempting to assert their dominance, a cheetah digesting a fresh kill, and more.
As the scorching sun started to dip, I, along with the few other guests, clamored onto a boat and headed towards the Shire River.
Out in the open water, we quickly heard grunting, and a hippopotamus surfaced from below. Then another. And another. โBehind usโ, our guide shouted as three more surfaced with a loud noise. โLook ahead,โ another person said as five more appeared in the distance.
Hippos breach the surface of the Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi
For a period of time, I didnโt know where to look. As we bobbed up and down in the boat, hippos kept coming and going, seemingly nonstop, so much so that I lost count. I later found out that Liwonde National Park is home to an estimated 2,500 of them!
We continued making our way through the traffic, approaching a family of elephants on the riverbank as they cooled themselves in the water with the evening glow perfectly illuminating the scene. Again, a splash of water, a grunt, and an exclamation: โmore hippos, turn aroundโ.
The sun sets along the flooded shores of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi
I had come across these majestic, yet volatile animals one other time before this trip, but never in this quantity and certainly not from the confines of a rickety boat with nowhere to go.
As we returned to camp at sunset, all I can remember was the feeling of peace and gratitude, ready for a good nightโs sleep after a full day immersed in nature.
6. Sunrise Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa
Ever since whale watching in Kaikoura, New Zealand, I constantly find myself researching whale migration patterns anytime I take a trip thatโs remotely near the coast. As it turns out, August is one of the peak viewing months for Southern Right Whales and the town of Hermanus, South Africa, located less than two hours' drive from Cape Town, is considered to be the whale watching capital of the world.
Too good to be true since I happened to have a month off work in August, right?
My thoughts exactly.
The morning light illuminates the bay in Hermanus, South Africa
Working with a small budget, I opted for the cheapest excursion I could find, which meant waking up at 4 am, bundling up in layers, sleepily making my way to the harbor, boarding a boat in the frigid dark, and heading out to the bay.
Soon enough, the orange glow of the sun warmed the cool South African winter morning as whales played in the waves around us.
Between an unbeatable sunrise scene and several whale sightings, this was one of the highlights of my time spent in South Africa, and an experience I wonโt soon forget.
A whale breaches the water in the morning light in Hermanus, South Africa
5. Nyika National Park, Malawi
A quick internet search labels Nyika National Park as one of the most remote and hardest-to-get-to parts of Malawi.
Located in the Northeast of the country, the park itself spans into neighboring Zambia; however, itโs only accessible from the Malawian side.
Sitting on a plateau that rises to 2,600m, the name โNyikaโ is derived from the phrase โwhere the water comes from.โ
As Malawiโs largest, Nyika National Park is home to herds of zebra and is said (unsubstantiated in recent years), to have the highest density of leopards in Central Africa. From the logistics just to reach the entry gate to the unique and remote landscapes that awaited, I knew it was a must-visit.
The rolling hills of Nyika National Park are often compared to the Scottish Highlands
So, I made my way from Southern Malawi to the north, using any means necessary, from car to moto to public ferry (see MV Ilala below), and finishing with a shared taxi to Mzuzu. Here, I picked up my Toyota Fortuner and set off.
Each time I mentioned โNyikaโ as my destination at the police checkpoints, the officer grinned and said, โcar might not make it, good luck.โ A normal human being might get deterred after the fifth time, but it simply made me more intrigued.
The further I drove, the more the roads narrowed, and I began to question Google Maps. This seemingly endless, single-lane dirt road with no one in sight isnโt the best way to reach the park, right?
Wrong.
Sure enough, after hours of contemplating the repercussions of bursting a tire or overheating the car alone in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, a small cluster of homes appeared and led to the gates of Nyika National Park.
To describe the park as remote is an understatement. So much so that a worker asked to hitch a ride to the campsite; otherwise, he would have to walk the 60km to work and hope that a ride passed by. As it turns out, my new friend was extremely helpful when the car bottomed out and got stuck in the dense mud tracks 30km into the park.
Zebras are one of the most dense animal populations inside Nyika National Park
I finally reached the campsite by nightfall, pitched my tent, dressed in every layer possible (admittedly, as Iโm sure you can tell, I did not extensively research this trip before doing it and was severely underprepared), and settled in as one of three visitors in the entire 1250 square mile park.
The morning sun and campfire was a welcomed warmth to a shivering night. My guide walked me through the rolling hills, spotting herds of zebra along the way, before a solo mountain bike around the campsite in the evening.
Iโm not sure if it was the nature itself or the effort it took to get there, but either way, Nyika National Park is a top thing to do in Malawi, as far as Iโm concerned.
4. Togoโs Akodessawa Voodoo Market
Imagine youโre on the back of a motorbike in Lome, Togo. You arrive at your destination, step onto the sandy road with the afternoon sun beating down, and breathe in.
You nearly gag at the stench, turn a corner, and see an open space; stalls of dead animals line an open space, with a sculpture covered at the center, blackened by sundried blood sacrifices.
Welcome to Togoโs Akodessawa Fetish Market, the largest of its kind in the world.
For West Africans, itโs the one-stop shop for ingredients needed for the Voodoo religion, but for me, it was one of those moments that was a stark reminder of where I was in the world.
Regular blood sacrifices turn the sculpture black from the sunlight
I didnโt quite know what I was getting myself into. The only concepts I had of Voodoo were dolls used as a source of revenge and curses, but, as I learned, the term โBlack Magicโ came with colonial roots. A way to fearmonger and create divide, to justify ongoing occupation of Africa.
Strolling around the market, we encountered everything from monkey tails to puppy heads, snake skin, and more. But what we didnโt find was anything โdarkโ. Instead, Voodoo priests consult with visitors on intrinsic desires, like ensuring safe travels, finding love, or obtaining financial security.
Needless to say, I went into this day with zero expectations, but came away with a deeper, more meaningful understanding and respect of the parts of West African culture that we donโt often learn about.
A dusty stall sells common ingredients for Fetish Priests, just one of many at Akodessawa Festish Market
3. Sani Pass, Lesotho and South Africa
As I planned for a month in South Africa, I kept coming back to the Sani Pass. A 9km stretch of tumultuous road descending from the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho and into South Africa, often described as one of the most thrilling 4x4 roads in the world, itโs commonly touted as the โRoof of Africaโ.
What could possibly go wrong, right?
In this case, a failed 4x4 car rental, an adjusted itinerary, no phone working in Lesotho, and thatโs just the beginning.
When the car rental agency said they couldnโt honor the 4x4 reservation, my brain immediately went to โhow do I make this work?โ I had planned to drive up the pass from South Africa into Lesotho, but surely coming down would be easier.
I took the next few hours to adjust my itinerary, working in reverse, and drove into Lesotho at another order before reaching the pass at the top.
A car carefully navigates the start of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa
It was a windy morning, so much so that I could barely open the car door and stand up straight. I sat at the Sani Mountain Escape for hours, warming myself with a cup of coffee, watching vehicles struggle up the pass and constantly questioning myself and what I was about to do.
As the afternoon rush of tourists from the South African side entered the pub, it was now or never. I walked across the empty road into the Lesotho immigration shack, stamped my passport, got behind the wheel, and slowly started the solo descent in my Rav4.
Thirteen hairpin turns later, each with a comforting name such as โSuicide Bendโ and โDevilโs Cornerโ, I hit the tar again on the South African side, stamped my passport, thanked my lucky stars for the experience, and carried on my way.
To this day, I still vividly hear the final words from the South African Immigration Officer at the bottom border: โThis is a 4x4, right?โ
โI think so,โ I mumbled, before jumping back in the car and driving off.
A view from the bottom of the pass, in South Africa, and back up towards Lesotho, the โRoof of Africaโ
2. Hiking Ghanaโs Waterfalls
Iโm ashamed to admit that I had been visiting Ghana since 2010 as part of Aya, a non-profit founded on the belief that everyone has the right to quality education. That meant that most of the time in the country was spent on hours-long busses between Accra and Berekum instead of exploring.
When I relocated in 2022, I settled in Ghanaโs Eastern Region and was exposed to the natural beauty.
The Akuapem-Togo mountain range, as seen from Ghana, which makes up part of the border with Togo
Fast forward three years and some of my favorite places to explore are the mountains of the Volta Region, on the border with Togo. Not only will you find Mount Afadjato, Ghanaโs tallest peak, here, but the area is also home to stunning waterfalls and hikes.
Nothing beats an early evening stroll to Wli Waterfalls or a morning hike and swim at Tagbo Falls. Make a weekend of it and unwind at Tagbo Falls Ecolodge, one of the best places for some rest and relaxation.
Tagbo Falls as seen from above in Liati Wote, Ghana
1. MV Ilala Ferry, Lake Malawi
Many people ask โwhy Malawi,โ and, to be honest, I donโt really have an answer. I had a month off from work, a flight credit to use, and Malawi fit the criteria of within budget, filled with nature, and plenty of unknowns. So, my response to this question ends up being โwhy not.โ
One experience that I kept coming back to while researching the country was the MV Ilala.
This historic ferry was built in 1949 in Scotland and has since been ferrying passengers and cargo up and down the shores of Lake Malawi since its launch in 1951. Carrying up to 360 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, the MV Ilala runs the length of the lake, from Monkey Bay up to Chilumba near the Tanzanian border, on a weekly schedule.
Passengers help load both cargo and people into fishing boats below, the only way to get to shore at many ports
I needed a way to connect the southern part of my Malawi itinerary to Nyika National Park, and what better way to do that than spend 40 hours on a ferry, packed to the brim with 300+ new friends?
Skeptical that the email I sent a week in advance was enough to secure a cabin, I arrived in Monkey Bay early in the morning to a throng of people and cargo, waiting in line, and was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process.
Ticket in hand, I navigated the crowd and boarded, watching from the top deck as passengers loaded everything from mattresses to stoves, and more. Soon enough, we left the port and were on our way.
Many of the ports of call along the route are too shallow for the ferry to dock, so it was a shock to me when we dropped anchor and fishing boats came out to collect people and baggage, a stream of traffic climbing up and down the side of the ship.
At the second stop, one of the MV Ilalaโs official shore boats stalled its engine and was left stranded bobbing up and down in the lakeโs waves, signaling for help from shore. By the time that was solved, the weather had turned, winds picked up, and the captain was afraid of capsizing, so we stayed put off the shores of Senga Bay, effectively delaying our travel by 7+ hours.
The sun sets along Lake Malawi as we dropped anchor and spent the night after winds picked up
After waking the next morning and wondering why it felt like we werenโt moving (in reality, because we werenโt), the captain cleared us to continue.
A fellow traveler and I decided to disembark at Likoma Island to stretch our legs. As the sun set, we made our way back to the port, elbowed our way into one of the wooden shuttle boats that were so deep you had to stand and use each other for support, before making our way back to the ship in the dark.
Iโm convinced that re-boarding is a special skill, having to wait until the waves lift your boat up, grabbing hold of the railings at the right time, and hoisting yourself back onto the ferry with the help of people behind you making sure you donโt fall backwards.
Getting on and off the MV Ilala is often an adventure in itself, climbing from the side of the sip into awaiting fishing boats
On we went, eventually reaching Nkhata Bay at 3 am. I descended below deck to the massive crowd crush trying to disembark, tossed my bags into a waiting boat, and climbed through the dark to reach them. We finally made it to shore after 2+ days traveling Lake Malawi, I pitched my tent in the dead of night, and watched the MV Ilala Ferry pull out of port the next morning from shore.
An experience I wonโt forget anytime soon.
Looking Back
Iโm now on year four of living in West Africa, and although itโs taught me so much, thereโs plenty more to learn and absorb.
This move and these experiences have brought a necessary shift in my perspective, a boost in resilience and adaptability, and, despite the chaos, a level of calmness I never experienced living in the United States.
Thanks for reading, and cheers to whatever adventures may lie ahead in this crazy life of ours.
What are some of your favorite travel stories? Share in the comments below and, until next time, stay safe & happy travels.
Ready to upgrade your camera gear? Hereโs what travels with me on every trip:
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Embracing Adversity Through Travel: How a trip to Ghana changed my outlook on life
Through all of my adventures over the years I've learned plenty of lessons. One that has stuck with me is just how much travel has changed the way I think and embrace challenges on a day-to-day basis. Here's a story about a trip to Ghana that tested my patience, but proved important to my growth.
Traveling isnโt always comfortable, in fact, itโs the moments in which I feel too comfortable that I begin to question what Iโm doing.
Why is that? Why do I actively seek to put myself in those challenging situations?
For as much thought as I've put towards solving this internal conundrum, I still don't have an answer.
With that being said, one thing I have come to learn throughout all of my adventures is that when it feels as though the universe is relentlessly breaking me down, it may actually be working to build me up.
Itโs certainly a not foolproof theory, but more times than not it seems to be the case.
As I reflect back on the countless times Iโve faced this lesson over the years, one particular experience comes to mind.
Hereโs a short story about a trip to Ghana that was full of mishaps and close calls, but ultimately forced me to embrace the adversity and ultimately feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude. Enjoy!
Located just outside of the historical city of Cape Coast lies Kakum. A national park of Ghana that encompasses nearly 150 square miles of protected forest, the famed canopy walkway offers visitors the chance to meander through the treetops across a series of swinging bridges.
It was only natural that when two new volunteers, Heather and Courtney, came to Ghana to help with The Senase Project for the first time, a visit to Kakum National Park was at the top of our to-do listโฆ but we almost didnโt make it.
The morning started off like any other: a casual breakfast of eggs and white bread accompanied by a warm cup of Milo, Yoo-hoo chocolate milkโs Ghanaian sibling, before packing up and heading out.
After a quick taxi ride through the bustling streets of Accra, the three of us were dropped off on the side of the highway at Kaneshie Station. This is where weโd find a tro-tro to take us to Cape Coast.
If youโre not familiar with the various modes of transportation in Ghana, tro-tros are essentially private vans that operate as shared taxis, traveling fixed routes between towns and all around the major cities.
Some are in good shape while others you canโt help but look at and question the number of remaining trips before the wheels inevitably fall off.
Once obtaining a ticket, itโs best to send up a quick prayer and hope for a window seat so the breeze can relieve the inevitable sauna-like environment that comes with passengers squeezing together, some sharing seats or commandeering laps.
It might sound miserable to those who havenโt experienced one, but it makes me smile just thinking about it.
Tro-tro packed to the brim in Accra, Ghana
The station itself was filled with a cacophony of sounds and a confusing aroma, somewhere along the spectrum of sewage and lukewarm seafood.
Hawkers worked the pathways, trying their best to sell dried fish and bofrot, Ghanaโs version of a donut, while young teenagers shouted destinations from the open windows of the vans.
It seemed as though we might struggle to find our way amidst the madness, but luckily thereโs an important caveat that accompanies this mode of travel: the drivers wonโt depart until all of the seats are full.
So, when a group of wide-eyed and clueless foreigners roll up, someone will inevitably ask for a destination and provide a personal escort to their friendโs van.
After what felt like an hour of waiting around, the driver and his team had sold enough tickets. The three of us piled into the back seat, carefully ducking under the exposed metal of the ceiling as we shuffled over the bags of produce that filled the aisle.
Off we went.
Interested in learning about how I first caught the travel bug? Check out this post:
The drive between Accra and Cape Coast typically takes less than 3 hours and although we had lost some time waiting for the tro-tro to fill up with passengers, we were still optimistic for the day ahead. After all, we were cruising the open road and catching views of the Gulf of Guinea as we wentโฆ nothing could bring us down!
That is until we arrived at a police barricade.
These checkpoints are a routine part of life in Ghana; simply a way for the police to patrol traffic. The driver rolled down the window and sheepishly handed over the required documents.
The officers paused and looked at one another, took a second glance at the provided papers, and then began to speak.
It was clear that something was off.
Our once vivacious driver appeared to curl up like a puppy, tail between his legs and all. We continued to sit in silence until a fellow passenger turned around and informed us that the driver has been caught using a fraudulent license.
โWell, thatโs a new one,โ I thought to myself.
I was eager to see how this was going to play out. Would the driver be arrested? Would the vehicle be seized? Would all of us be left stranded on the side of the road? My imagination was running wild.
No, none of that happened. Simply a slap on the wrist, an order to obtain a legitimate license, and a modest bribe.
Back to the open road, we went, laughing it off as a story to tell our friends and unaware that it was just the beginning of what the day had in store.
All of a sudden we heard a massive โpopโ immediately followed by the sound of metal dragging along the asphalt.
The three of us simultaneously lifted our feet out of sheer confusion and panic, unsure of if the floor was giving way. It wouldnโt have been the first time a tro-tro had bottomed out and been stripped to the bones.
Thankfully it wasnโt the floor, but the noise crescendoed to a point of no return and the driver was forced to gently guide the van to the side of the road, thankfully finding what appeared to be a makeshift garage along the way.
One by one we all exited, our fellow passengers seemingly annoyed but ultimately unsurprised by this turn of events.
The driver, with the help of his friends, rolled the van onto a set of cinder blocks and disappeared for a moment before resurfacing with a busted muffler. Iโm no car expert by any means, but it surely seemed un-reparable.
I couldnโt believe our luck. It felt as though that was the end of the line for us, our day foiled by a piece of fraudulent paper and faulty van. As disappointing as that was to accept, we couldnโt help but chuckle.
There we stood, huddled together under a metal awning on the side of the road in Ghana, completely at the mercy of the universe.
Stranded in Ghana
Without missing a beat, the driver obtained a hammer, a blowtorch, and went to work.
The sound was deafening as he gave it his all, strategically heating the muffler and using the hammer to approximate the edges before welding it back together.
Over an hour later he was done, had re-attached it to the van, and was eagerly encouraging everyone to pile back in. We obliged, silently questioning the integrity of the muffler that had been given a new lease on life.
It couldnโt have been more than ten minutes of driving before we heard another โpopโ and a sense of defeat quickly replaced the panic and confusion we had felt the first time.
The driver frantically pulled out his phone, sensing the looming mutiny from his customers if he attempted to fix the muffler again. โOk, wait here. Another person will come to pick you up,โ he said. Sure enough, a white van appeared.
After a brief deliberation as to whether or not we should call it quits and retreat back to Accra, we collectively decided to press on. What else could possibly happen?
Much to our relief, we finally reached Cape Coast and on top of that, we were all still in one piece!
The sense of accomplishment was quickly forgotten as we approached the taxi stand and asked for a ride to Kakum National Park.
โAre you sure? Itโs nearly closing time,โ a driver replied.
We glanced down at our watches and, to our disbelief, it was nearly 3:00 pm. With the park closing at 4:00 pm, it seemed as though all hope was lost.
Sensing our disappointment, the driver opened his door.
โGo ahead, get in. I will try my bestโ he exclaimed.
The road from Cape Coast to Kakum is technically paved, but I use that term loosely as the concentration of potholes is more than anywhere else Iโve been in the world. Hence our unofficial petition to name it Pothole Alley.
Up, down, left, right. The driver clearly had years of experience navigating this route as he seamlessly zig-zagged his way forward, shaving off minutes with each kilometer traveled. We tried to remain positive, but thatโs always easier said than done.
Our hearts sank as we pulled into the entrance of the park. A truck full of guards was on its way out and that meant they had closed for the day. It seemed as though all the trouble we had endured was for nothing.
Without a second thought, our taxi driver rolled down his window and began pleading our case. We sat there silently crossing our fingers. A guard then hopped out of the bed of the truck and squeezed into the backseat with Heather and Courtney. He was willing to reopen the canopy walk for an extra fee and subsequently restored our faith by doing so!
The three of us silently hiked through the forest, eagerly listening to our guide identify various species of flowers and trees along the way. Once at the top, we carefully stepped out onto the first bridge, a single plank of wood suspended 30m above the ground.
Kakum National Park, Ghana
It was beautifully silent as we made our way across and I couldnโt help but feel grateful for the journey that had brought us there.
Despite the frustrations, if we hadnโt been shuttled to that specific tro-tro, with that particular driver, on that precise morning, we would not have been there in that moment, soaking up the serenity.
The sun began to set and it was time to go.
We made our way back down the trail, gleefully smiling in disbelief and appreciation as to how quickly our luck had turned around. Somehow we had secured a private hike through one of the most popular tourist spots in all of Ghana, a feat that Iโm unlikely to ever experience again.
So, whatโs the lesson here?
Itโs not that we should avoid traveling via tro-tros at all costs, nor is it that we should roll over at the first sign of trouble. Thereโs something bigger at play here and when I find the words to express it, Iโll be sure to let you know.
In the meantime, Iโll leave you with this: Donโt shy away from the frustrations of traveling.
Instead, as hard as it may seem, challenge yourself to embrace them. After all, you never know what the universe has in store.
The beautiful feeling of complete fulfillment amidst intense exhaustion is the reason why I travel. It helps me grow, it stimulates learning, and itโs why Iโll always advocate for others to get out and experience the world as well.
Thanks for following along! Have any lessons youโve learned abroad of your own ? Feel free to share in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Venezia Football Club: Venice's best kept secret
In a city that welcomes 30 million visitors each year, it seems unlikely that something has been left undiscovered, right? Think again. Venezia Football Club has remained raw, authentic, and full of passion despite the modern age of overtourism. Sport fanatic or not, itโs worth checking out. Hereโs whyโฆ
Before reading: Venezia FC was promoted to Serie A in 2021 for the first time in 19 years but was forced to cope with relegation and is currently back competing in Serie B.
Travel writer Thomas Watkins once wrote, โThere is no country so much frequented yet so little known by foreigners as Venice [Italy].โ That was back in 1788, but hundreds of years later itโs still true.
The reality is that 30 million people tour the Venetian Lagoon each year, eager to capture the perfect selfie in St. Markโs Square. They pay hundreds of dollars for gondola rides, put out for overpriced cocktails in the famed piazzas, and live their fantasy of calling this lustful place home, even if only for an afternoon.
St. Markโs Square as seen from the San Giorgio Bell Tower
Itโs not easy to look beyond the facades of the San Marco district and why would anyone need to? There is natural beauty and history at every turn. Despite this, I couldnโt help but feel there was more to Venice than meets the eye.
Cue the Venezia Football Club. A professional soccer team formed in 1907 that competes in Italyโs second division (Serie B) and, despite the high volume of foot traffic within the cityโs limits, is still undoubtedly hidden within the easternmost confines of the city. It has a history. It has a culture. It has passion. Yet rarely do foreigners ever experience it.
The club plays its home matches at the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo, a cozy 11,150-seat stadium thatโs tucked away deep within the SantโElena district. A quick search of the web will explain how itโs the second oldest continually used venue in all of Italy. Thatโs quite an impressive feat when you consider the deep history of Italian football but somehow remains largely invisible to a majority of the cityโs visitors.
Itโs certainly not the easiest place to find. There are no banners, no yellow signs indicating a point of interest like those seen plastered around the tourist trail, and no walking tour in sight. The stadium is simply there, hidden in plain sight for better or for worse and serving as a discrete monument of stability within a city thatโs constantly changing.
Inside Stadio Pierluigi Penzo - Venice, Italy
During my first visit, I didnโt learn of the clubโs existence until the day after they had played at home. I wasnโt about to make that same mistake the next time I found myself aimlessly wandering the canals of Venice and sure enough, the stars aligned a year later.
On the day of the match, indescribable energy filled the air. Fans from Mestre, Veniceโs mainland neighbor, packed the water taxi like a can of sardines, disembarking at the SantโElena pier before making their way to the stadium. It wasnโt a long walk from the docks by any means, but Iโll always remember the roar of the crowd directing the newcomers, guiding us through the streets, and growing louder with each step.
Once inside, I couldnโt help but feel as though I was witnessing a religious experience of sorts. Sure, Venice is full of cathedrals, but the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo is one that never receives attention. Itโs a different kind of church, of course. A holy place where Venetians gather, rain or shine, to pay tribute to what many refer to as the most beautiful game in the world.
I took my seat in the Curva Sud section, home to the clubโs diehard supporters. Organized chaos is the only way to describe it as a couple of delirious individuals led continuous chants throughout the entire 90 minutes, never once taking their eyes off the crowd. This was the heartbeat of everything, setting the tone for fans and players alike.
On the northern end of the stadium stood the away supporters, valiantly trying to make their presence felt with flags and cheers of their own, all the while seemingly un-phased by the uphill battle they faced. It was to no avail on this particular afternoon.
The atmosphere was a far cry from the luxury and sophistication that exude the shops along the Grand Canal. There was nothing โhigh endโ about it, nor should there have been. Instead, the beauty of this moment came from within the people, their raw emotion filling the stadium like a pressure cooker that could only be released when the ball struck the back of the net in favor of the home side.
Anyone who knows me is well aware that I consider myself to be completely infatuated with the sport of soccer.
Itโs only natural that I would come away loving the experience, but trust me when I say that this was different. On a gray, dreary, and otherwise lifeless February afternoon, the SantโElena district was alive and well thanks to an overlooked staple of Venetian life: The Venezia Football Club.
Wander amongst the canals of Venice and itโs easy to feel the rich history oozing from the walls of the city but step inside the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo on match day and you suddenly become part of it, living amongst the pages as theyโre written.
This was the first time that I felt as though I had been gifted a small glimpse into the real life of Venice and for that, I will forever be a fan of Venezia F.C. Grazie, thank you, Winged Lions!
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels!
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