Sani Pass Self-Drive Adventure: How to Conquer South Africa’s Most Thrilling 4x4 Route
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list…
*Note: All informations is up to date as of April 2025
If you're like me, then when planning trips you'll find one thing, maybe a place to stay or a sight to see, latch onto it, and then build an entire itinerary around that.
On my one-month road trip around South Africa, the thing I latched onto the most was self-driving the Sani Pass, a notorious 9km stretch of tumultuous terrain connecting the country with the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
Why did I choose the Sani Pass experience? Truthfully, I'm not sure. It's just one of those things that when you know, you know.
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. But, in some false-confidence part of my brain, I told myself the spectacular views of the mountains would be well worth the effort (and by effort, I mean risk).
So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list.
Winding from the lush foothills of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa into the highlands of Lesotho, this is one of Africa's most iconic mountain passes — and a must-do for adventurers (don't forget to buckle up).
The infamous Sani Pass winds its way from Lesotho down into South Africa
WHAT IS THE SANI PASS AND WHY IS IT SPECIAL?
The Sani Pass is a high mountain road that links the borders of South Africa and Lesotho (the only border in Kwazulu-Natal), ascending over 1,000 meters in less than 10 kilometers.
Completed in 1950, the road starts at 1544m in elevation on the South African side and rises to 2876m on the Lesotho border, earning it’s name as the “Roof of Africa”. Previously utilized for pack animals, it is now one of the most challenging and dramatic 4x4 drives in Southern Africa and attracts off-road enthusiasts, photographers, and curious travelers alike (I'm the latter).
If you can brave the occasionally maintained loose gravel track, test your nerves on Devil's Corner and Suicide Bend, and survive being flanked by a steep drop-off for the entirety of the journey, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains, and a trip to the Highest Pub in Africa.
The beauty in this particular journey is in the remoteness. Nothing comes close to the feeling of standing on top of the pass, peering over the edge to see the winding road below. Meanwhile everything is eerily silent except for the wind whipping about, reminding you of just how forceful Mother Nature can be.
Ready to leap, or in this case slowly and arduously drive? Let's get into the details.
Looking for more South African adventures?
Check out this post about whale watching in Hermanus. You won’t be disappointed!
HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS?
Make no mistake — driving the Sani Pass is not for the faint of heart.
With tight turns and oncoming traffic, it's important to have some prior driving experience not just for your safety but for everyone's. Remember, you won't be the only one on the road.
Despite re-graveling and flattening every month, the road is steep, rough, and unpredictable, with hairpin bends testing even experienced drivers. This, combined with the ever-changing weather, it’s best to have an alternative plan incase you’re forced to forego the drive that day.
It's not uncommon for drivers to embark on the Sani Pass before turning around and bailing out but, if you're committed to it, the drive requires 1.5-2 hours of constant concentration.
This is long enough to go slow, pull over for breaks, and pictures, or to give yourself a little pep talk, and still make it to the top safely.
Although I did a solo self-drive Sani Pass experience, it's safest to go with at least one other person to help you pick your lines of clearance. Some parts of the road can be a challenge and one wrong move can send you closer to the steep drop-offs.
The Sani Pass is made up of steep declines, narrow paths, and abrupt drop-offs
Sani Pass Requirements
First things, first, is a 4x4 required to drive the Sani Pass? Yes. It’s mandatory and is actively enforced at the South African border.
Even if you do have a 4x4, the border patrol agents have been known to turn away vehicles they deem not fit for the current conditions.
In addition, you'll need to meet the following requirements:
Passport. No visa is required for Lesotho if visiting for 14 days or less.
Proof of Ownership of Vehicle. It’s standard practice to provide registration documentation when entering and exiting any country.
Letter of Authority. Rental cars must obtain a letter of authority from the agency that gives the driver permission to cross specific borders. This comes at an additional cost to the rental rate, usually around R650, about USD 35.
Spare Tire. It's not necessarily a requirement that's checked, but it is safest to have one. The road is often littered with rocks and boulders, and if I have a choice between a flat tire and veering towards the ledge, I'm choosing the tire every time.
Finally, it's important to note that both the South African and Lesotho borders open their gates between 6 am and 6 pm. You must clear both by that time, otherwise, you'll be stuck.
This means that for a round-trip adventure, assuming a slow 2-hour journey, plan to start from South Africa no later than 12 pm and be checked in at Lesotho immigration by 2 pm.
Spend an hour or so snapping pictures and calming your nerves at the Sani Mountain Lodge, maybe purchase a quick souvenir from one of the small shops at the top of the pass, and exit Lesotho no later than 4 pm.
When to Drive the Sani Pass
Best time: The best time to drive the Sani Pass is during the dry months. May to September offer clear skies and stable conditions.
Maybe it's not as photogenic (there will be less greenery on the pass), but it's still an unbelievable experience.
Avoid: The worst time to attempt to drive is during the rainy summer months (November–March). Storms move through the mountains every afternoon, often striking at unpredictable times.
With such a steep gradient, you can imagine how prone the road is to landslides and flooding.
Winter note: Winter on the Sani Pass is from June to August and is generally drier, making for an optimal experience. With that said, it's not uncommon for snow and ice to coat the road, making it slippery and un-passable.
It’s ideal to plan for winter months and when no recent storms have hit (easier said than done, I know).
A car carefully drives the perilous Sani Pass
Best Sani Pass Tours (2025)
Still interested, but maybe you're questioning your ability (or sanity) at this point? Don't worry, there are plenty of daily tours leaving from Underberg on the South African side.
Most depart at 9 am and include lunch at the Sani Pass Lodge and a visit to a Basotho Village in Lesotho before descending the Sani Pass and back into South Africa.
Total time is typically between 6 and 7 hours.
Here are a few reliable options to check out (all departing from Underberg):
Private Sani Pass Classic Tour (Top Rated)
FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE: WHAT IT’S LIKE TO DRIVE THE SANI PASS
Here's where I need to put a disclaimer, don't do what I did. But, before you pass judgment, let me explain.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, driving the Sani Pass was imprinted into my brain while planning my road trip around South Africa. I made sure to book a 4x4 in Johannesburg, thinking I would be driving up the pass, across Lesotho, and back into South Africa somewhere else.
Spoiler alert: that plan fell apart very quickly.
When I arrived at the rental desk, they told me no 4x4s were available and I would have to wait multiple hours if there was any chance of locating one, but it wasn't guaranteed.
Meanwhile, time is ticking away to check in at the Black Rhino Game Lodge and, at some point, the gates will close and I'll be out of luck.
Once the rental agency sent me to the garage to pick up a BMW, I immediately said no, trying not to laugh at them knowing what I had planned. Their second try yielded a Rav4 that was, at least, AWD and had a downhill lock for the breaks.
At that point a decision needed to be taken. Do I put my foot down and demand a 4x4, wait it out and hope for the best? Or do I stay on track and adjust elsewhere?
Ultimately, I decided to take the Rav4 and reverse my itinerary. Instead of ascending Sani Pass from the South African side, I would enter Lesotho and Caledonspoort and descend.
An overnight stay in Mokhotlong, Lesotho before attempting the Sani Pass
There were a couple of reasons for this. For starters, it's much easier to go down than up. I can see the track better, make safer decisions, and gravity is in my favor when trying to get over rough terrain. Secondly, I took a gamble that if Lesotho border patrol wouldn't check the vehicle's 4x4 capacity. By the time I got back down to South Africa what could they do? I felt I had a better chance of still driving the Sani Pass if I planned it like this.
Again, get a 4x4. The only reason this crazy plan worked, was because I lucked out with a beautiful day and dry conditions.
So, I crossed my fingers, drove across Lesotho, and reached the top of Sani Pass after staying the night in Mokhotlong.
From the warm comforts of the Sani Mountain Lodge, I watched the morning traffic slowly crawl to the top, carefully maneuvering over every rock and boulder, fighting the wind to stay stable.
Why was I doing this again? Is this really a good idea? But, at that point, the only other option was to drive straight back across Lesotho.
After striking a full-on athletic-dad stance to avoid the whipping wind at the overview to snap a few pictures and once the Highest Pub in Africa reached capacity with adrenaline-filled tourists, it was clear that my time was now or never.
I stumbled over to border patrol while fighting the wind and, before I could say anything, the agent looked at my passport, mumbled something under his breath, and handed back my booklet with an exit AND entry stamp, failing to see I had entered Lesotho elsewhere. Instead, he assumed I had just failed to get my passport stamped once at the top, probably a common theme as people are filled with the cathartic feeling of escaping death on Sani Pass.
Either way, my passport now has two entry stamps into Lesotho and only one exit, so I guess it's a good thing it's not an electronic system and no one has bothered to check!
As the car slowly rolled under the "Thank you for visiting Lesotho" sign, that was the moment I realized there was no turning back and I had to lock in.
The hairpin turns and steep decline came quick. The phrase 'slow and steady wins the race' has never been so true. So much so that I let tourist vans pass me on their way back down.
As you'll read later in this post, patience and humility are two keys to success when driving the Sani Pass. Let everyone else go at their pace! In hindsight, one of the best decisions I made was to arrive at Sani Mountain Lodge in the morning and wait for those ascending to finish.
Looking back up towards the Sani Pass, from the South African Side
I can't imagine having to descend with traffic on the way up. Instead, I ran into maybe one car on their way to Lesotho. This allowed me to remain fully focused on white-knuckling the steering wheel and methodically trying to plot every minor adjustment to the tire angles while also not killing the undercarriage of the car because, as a reminder, a Rav4 is generally not equipped for this South African adventure.
After about an hour of riding the gas pedal, the slope leveled out and the anticipation of being on South African soil and paved roads again became real. It wasn't long before the little roadside "Welcome to South Africa" sign came into view and I was greeted by the smiling border patrol.
"How are you," they asked.
"Better now," I replied, laughing as I stomped on the pavement.
The gentleman checked some documents, looked in my passport, and glanced up at me before stamping and returning it. Surely he would be curious about why I have two entry stamps into Lesotho, right?
Instead, as he handed my passport back, he asked "This is a 4x4, right?"
Panic set in. I mumbled some deflection about how it "got the job done".
He smiled unconvincingly, and I drove off into the literal sunset, parking farther down the road to look back on what I had just accomplished.
Long story short, yes the Sani Pass is self-drivable, even for solo travelers like me, but there are some important factors to consider.
It's one hell of an adventure and one that I won't soon forget!
WHAT TO DO AT THE TOP OF THE SANI PASS
The Drakensberg Mountains are an incredible playground in the wild, full of natural beauty and trails and the Sani Pass drops visitors at the perfect starting point. Whether you plan a round-trip excursion or want to see more of Lesotho, here's what you can do:
1. Grab a Drink at the Sani Mountain Lodge
Unless you're on a tour, be careful with what "drink" you choose. Remember, at 2,874 meters above sea level, alcohol will have an amplified effect and you do not want to be compromised on your descent down the Sani Pass.
Grab a cappuccino and a warm ham and cheese toastie and marvel out the window at your latest accomplishment as you watch cars struggle up the pass. This is also the optimal spot for some photos from the top of the pass as it looks out across the valley below and surrounding Drakensberg Mountains.
2. Explore Lesotho's Highlands
Consider continuing into Lesotho's remote interior for a few days before heading back down the Sani Pass to South Africa, or do what I did in reverse and exit Lesotho via Caledonspoort to see both Lesotho's stunning terrain and spend some time in Clarens, SA.
If you choose to traverse the Moutain Kingdom during the winter months, be sure to stop over at AfriSki and carve some turns on the African continent!
3. Overnight Stay
Wanting to stay overnight at the top of the pass? Here are some options:
Sani Mountain Escape ($-$$)- From 1 May 2025 to 31 August 2025, all accommodation at Sani Mountain Escape will be closed for renovation.
The Highest Pub in Africa remains open, but as such a high-demand destination, it now requires a R100 entrance fee and can often reach capacity at peak hours (get there early).
Sani Lodge and Cottages ($$-$$$) - Nestled at the base of the Sani Pass in South Africa, they have a range of accommodation available ranging from campsites to Rondavels (a traditional, circular hut).
The lodge also partners with Drakensburg Adventures, a Fair Trade Tourism company, making it easy to get in and out of Lesotho.
Sani Stone Lodge ($-$$) - For a more authentic Basotho experience, book a stay at Sani Stone Lodge. A bed in a mixed dorm costs R250, around USD 15, while a twin room with ensuite will run R1,100, or USD 60.
Take a break at the Highest Pub in Africa before heading down the Sani Pass
TOP TIPS FOR SELF-DRIVING THE SANI PASS
Ready for your adventure?
This is truly one of the most beautiful drives in the world, but it's also one of the most challenging so it's important to come prepared. Here are some of my top tips for self-driving the Sani Pass:
Stick to the 4x4 Rule: Don't attempt this in a regular vehicle. Seriously. Learn from the error of my ways.
What Goes Up, Must Come Down: When I was unable to secure the 4x4 I had promised, I figured what goes up, must come down, right? In my experience, it was far easier to maneuver a Rav4 on the descent than the ascent, so I changed my route.
Consider which direction you want to drive and what makes most sense with your experience and expertise.
Less Congestion Equals Easier Maneuvering: Morning drives offer better visibility and fewer vehicles, but it's also best to be aware of the tours.
I spent my morning sipping cappuccinos at the Highest Pub in Africa, watching the tour convoys haul their customers up and, when the restaurant became congested, that was my time to take off and descend the pass with far less ascending traffic.
How Low Can You Go: Use low gear, especially on the descent. I cannot express this enough. You will be driving slower than you walk.
Thankfully, the Rav4 had downhill locks to keep sustained pressure on the breaks and limit the speed.
Pack Essentials: This can mean different things for everyone, but in general consider water, snacks, warm clothing, a spare tire, and a sense of adventure.
Here are some of the things I brought along:
Hand warmer/power bank - Because you never know when you’ll need that little extra bit of warmth (or a flashlight, but hopefully just the heat).
Cotopaxi Fuego Down Vest - A great choice for layering. All the warmth, with more freedom! Add a windbreaker on top and you’re ready to brave the Sani Pass.
Mini Tripod - You won’t want to miss capturing the views, but at the same time it’s crucial to stay focused on the road. Set the tripod up in the car and rest assured you’ll collect some great images and videos.
First Aid Kit - It sounds unnecessary until it’s not and I didn’t want to risk the car rental not providing one, so I brought along my mini first aid kit.
Pocket Knife - Again, you never know when it comes to the Sani Pass. Better to be prepared for the unexpected.
Small shops line the roads at the top of the Sani Pass
Fill the Tank: Petrol is not readily available on either side of the border, so plan to fill up in Underburg (if coming from South Africa) or Mokhotlong (if arriving from Lesotho).
Don't Feel Pressured: Yes, self-driving the Sani Pass is one of the most difficult 4x4 road-trips in South Africa, if not the southern part of the continent. It is still a route used by local transportation and many locals drive the road for leisure.
Don't panic if someone is passing you or ascends in 45 minutes. That's fine. Be patient, stick to what you're comfortable with, and trust the process.
Time doesn't matter, but remaining in one piece to share your adventure does!
Carry Cash: The Sani Mountain Escape is now cashless and, oddly enough, even one or two of the small souvenir shops at the top of the road take cards, but it's best to still carry some cash.
The shop I wanted something from the most, of course, didn't take card and I was left with the memory (not a bad consolation prize, though).
South Africa SIM: Be sure to use your South Africa SIM card in case of emergency.
If you haven't yet, try the Airalo e-sims. I've quickly grown to love the ease of flipping between SIM cards without fumbling through my bag to find something to open the slot with.
In the event of an emergency, the South African Border number is +27 033 202 1169.
Stamp the passport: South Africa has a car park to pull into and it's very clear where you need to go. Lesotho, at the top of the Sani Pass, is a bit more relaxed.
Don't forget to walk over to the immigration window on both entry and exit. If you're doing a one-way self-drive, like me, be sure to tell them to avoid a wrongful assumption that you forgot to stamp into the country.
However it does make for a fun story, how I have two passport stamps into Lesotho and only one stamp out!
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Can you feel the excitement building?
Then it's probably time to book that trip to South Africa and experience the infamous Sani Pass in person!
Grab a drink at the Highest Pub in Africa, marvel at the surrounding geography, swap stories with other adventurers, and have the (literal) ride of a lifetime.
The Sani Pass awaits.
Anything I've missed? Have you visited before? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe & happy travels!
Discover Tranquility at Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana. This small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region…
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana.
Owned by Jolinaiko Eco-Tours, this small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region.
Relax in a hammock and get lost in a good book, enjoy delicious food, or explore the village… there’s something for everyone.
Here’s everything you need to know about staying at this hidden gem in Liati Wote, Ghana.
Let me be the first to welcome you to Tagbo Falls Lodge!
Mount Aduadu above the lush forests of Ghana’s Volta Region
ABOUT THE AREA: LIATI WOTE AND GHANA’S VOLTA REGION
Tagbo Falls Lodge is situated on the edge of a picturesque village, Liati Wote. Nestled near the border with Togo in Ghana’s Volt Region, this part of the country is renowned for its rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.
Although less than 600 members, Liati Wote prides itself on its community-based tourism approach, warmly welcoming people from all over the world to their slice of paradise in the mountains.
At first, I’ll admit, I was a bit put off by the term “tourist village”, imagining the all-too-often haggling on the streetside, drummers and dancers dressing up to beat drums for eager ears, ultimately existing to please the tourists rather than educate.
Boy, I was wrong. Liati Wote is nothing but laid back, making it possible to coexist to whatever degree you wish during your stay. That’s hard to find a world full of overtourism and the opportunism that comes from it.
Take a few steps down the dirt road outside the entrance and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of Ghana’s highest peak, Mount Afadjato. Keep walking towards town and you’ll find your way to the trailhead to the stunning Tagbo Falls (be sure to bring a swimsuit).
Liati Wote isn’t just about nature, though. Wander around town and you’ll quickly spot waste bins all around, part of a plastic waste reduction initiative from the Stepping Stones of Africa Foundation.
More recently, the NGO established the Nuku Arts Center in town, offering a workspace for upcycling while providing locally handmade goods for purchase.
Are you sold yet? Whether you’re a solo traveler, backpacker, or nature enthusiast, Liati Wote is a must-visit spot on any Volta Region travel itinerary.
Looking for more posts about Ghana’s Volta Region? Check these out:
HOW TO GET TO LIATI WOTE, GHANA, AND TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Getting to Tagbo Falls Lodge isn’t necessarily easy, but that’s part of the fun, right? From Accra, take a bus or drive to HoHoe, the largest city in the Volta Region. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared minibus (locally called “tro-tro”) to Liati Wote.
In the past, I’ve taken tro-tro from the Tema-Akosombo road to Golokwati, before hiring a motorbike to take me the final 45min to Liati Wote. This is the more adventurous way to arrive, but there’s nothing quite like cruising down dirt roads in the fresh mountain air.
Estimated travel time from Accra: 5–6 hours
From Hohoe to Liati Wote: ~40min by road
Pro tip: Wherever you’re coming from, do yourself a favor and plan to take a private taxi. It eliminates stress, and Ghana’s tro-tro system has a less-than-stellar safety record. Worry less about how to get there, and more about what you’ll do once you reach the lodge!
Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
COST OF ACCOMMODATION AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Tagbo Falls Lodge offers a range of accommodations that suit every budget, making it ideal for families and solo travelers, alike. Here is the current list of rooms available, as of 2025:
Banana Room (1 queen bed, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Orange Room (2 single beds, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Papaya Room R3 (2 single beds, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Papaya Room R4 (1 queen bed, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Pineapple Room (1 double bed, 2 single beds, private bathroom): 500/650* GHS/night (USD 32/42)
Chalet R6 (1 double bed, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R7 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R8 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
The asterisk is the price for using solar-powered air conditioning. If you can survive off fans, then you’ll pay the lower rate.
Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge does not include breakfast, so that’s important to factor in. With that said, the food here is some of the best I’ve had at any eco-lodge in Ghana. It will be well worth the nominal cost, I promise.
Speaking from experience, it’s important to plan ahead and book early. Weekends fill up quickly, so if you need more flexibility it’s best to try to visit during the week and off-holiday periods.
Ready to book? Contact them directly via WhatsApp at +233 54 955 8307 for any enquiries.
Morning sunrise in Liati Wote, Ghana
WHAT TO EXPECT DURING YOUR STAY AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE
Tagbo Falls Lodge makes it easy to unplug and reconnect with nature. Upon arrival to the beautiful grounds, you’ll meet the friendly staff, get situated in your room, and immediately start to feel any stress melt away.
Everything about the lodge is cultivated to slow down and step back. If you need guidance they’re there to help, but if you need space, no one will bug you. I have met some wonderful people and have heard some incredible stories from those working there, though, so take time to interact and get to know them (especially Madam Philomina, who cooks all of the delicious meals).
In the middle of the lodge is the communal lounge where meals are served, complete with a bar stocked with local drinks. My personal favorites are the hibiscus juice and Tale Beer’s Hibiscus IPA… I guess you can see a trend there, huh?
Not a fan of independent travel? Check out this tour from Get Your Guide, the best of Ghana’s Volta Region!
There’s limited Wi-Fi (very limited), so bring a good book and be ready to slow down. The data network is also virtually nonexistent except for certain spots in the village, which is my favorite aspect (good luck getting in touch, work colleagues).
If you’re lucky enough to be there as a storm hits, grab a drink and head for the viewing platform and the front of the property to watch clouds and lightning roll in through the mountains surrounding Liati Wote.
One of the best parts of staying at Tagbo Falls Lodge that I haven’t touched on is the food. This is some of the best and most affordable food I’ve had in Ghana and if I find myself within an hour’s drive, I always make it a point to stop by for lunch.
Madam Philomina and her team do a fantastic job, offering both local and continental dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options. Personal favorites include the baobab smoothie (baobab is a superfood native to Northern Ghana but lesser known), coconut curry rice (85 GHS/USD 5.50), and the homemade bread and garlic butter (40 GHS/USD 3).
This is one of the few places you can taste the passion and effort that goes into making the food. I will forever be a Philomina fan – be sure to ask about her duty as Queen Mother of Kpando, a small village on the bank of Lake Volta!
Whether it’s the end of a day full of relaxation or adventure, fall asleep with a happy stomach to the sound of crickets and rushing water and wake up to misty mountain views and crisp, clean air (a rarity in Ghana).
Tagbo Falls Lodge is a top eco-lodge in the country when it comes to its staff, cost, and location, and is a must-include for any Ghana itinerary.
It’s not hard to relax in the gardens of Tagbo Falls Lodge
MUST-DO ATTRACTIONS NEARBY
Although it’s easy to lose track of time and relax at Tagbo Falls Lodge, it also serves as the perfect home base for many other Volta Region activities. Here's what you can do nearby:
1. Hike to Tagbo Falls
The trail to Tagbo Falls is scenic and moderately easy, with a short 45-minute walk through the forest. The waterfall itself is spectacular—cascading into a clear pool that’s perfect for a refreshing dip.
2. Climb Mount Afadjato
Up for a challenge? Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s highest peak. It’s a steep but rewarding 1–2 hour hike, offering panoramic views over the Volta highlands and into neighboring Togo.
3. Visit Amedzofe, Ghana’s Highest Elevated Settlement
Just an hour’s drive away, Amedzofe is another eco-tourism paradise. Walk to the top of Mount Gemi for unparalleled views across the valley below or stroll along the canopy walkway through the forest.
4. Swim in West Africa’s Tallest Waterfall
Pick a moto and ride 40 minutes north along stunning mountain landscapes before arriving at the Wli tourist center. Follow a short, easily accessible trail, and feel the power of Wli Falls, one of Ghana’s top waterfall hikes.
Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana’s best waterfall hikes in the Volta Region
If the above doesn’t sell you on a visit to Tagbo Falls Lodge, then it’s possible you’re on the wrong blog! Just kidding (sort of).
In all seriousness, there are few places I’ve visited throughout my travels in Africa that are as authentic and wholesome as this. It’s time to book that trip for the real Ghana experience.
Tagbo Falls Lodge, Liati Wote, Ghana—add it to your travel list.
Have you visited Ghana’s Volta Region before? Share your experiences in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Hiking Ghana's Tallest Mountain
If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region. When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven…
Note: All information below is accurate as of April 2025
If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region.
When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven.
Standing at 885 meters (2,904 feet), Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s tallest mountain and offers stunning views of surrounding villages, verdant forests, and even neighboring Togo.
Even more, it’s located in a small, peaceful village with plenty of other trails and waterfalls to explore, including my favorite place to stay: Tagbo Falls Lodge.
Fancy a bit of outdoor adventure on your trip to Ghana? Mount Afadjato is for you!
The view of the Volta Region while hiking Mount Afadjato in Ghana
HISTORY & MEANING OF MOUNT AFADJATO
Mount Afadjato derives its name from the Ewe word “Avadzeto,” meaning “at war with the bush.”
As the Ewe tribe settled here from Togo, they were prone to attacks from wild animals. The village revolted, pushing them back into the mountains but as they reached the forest, they were overcome by plants making them itch.
Afadja, Afadjato, it’s all the same! Another way to break it down in the Ewe language: ‘Afar’ means ‘war’, ‘dja’ means ‘plant’, and ‘to’ means ‘mountain.
Despite the name and history, I’m happy to report that the itching plants have since been tamed and it is very safe to hike the trails (but consider long pants, just in case)!
The area remains a symbol of pride for the Ewe people, as Mount Afadja is believed to house the spirits of their ancestors who look over and protect the surrounding communities.
Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:
LOCATION AND HOW TO GET THERE
Nestled in the mountains that border Togo, the trailhead is located in the small village of Liati Wote in Ghana’s Volta Region. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to get to Mount Afadjato:
By Car: From Accra, take the Accra–Hohoe road and follow signs to Liati Wote. The roads are well-maintained (for the most part), making the drive smooth and scenic as you wind through the mountains. The drive should take ~6 hours.
By Public Transport: Buses and shared taxis from Accra to Hohoe are affordable. From Hohoe, hire a taxi or take a shared ride to Liati Wote. Another option is to take a tro-tro to Golokwati, but this often requires 2-3 changes in vehicles along the way.
From Nearby Attractions: If you’re already exploring Wli Waterfalls or Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, Liati Wote is just a short drive away (20-40 min depending on where you’re coming from).
If you don’t want to plan your own transportation, consider one of these pre-arranged tours from Get Your Guide. They depart Accra and sort travel, food, and accommodations along the way!
Pro Tip: Whenever I can, I try to travel around Ghana on Sundays. Everyone is in church and this means much less traffic and dangers on the road – and I get to where I’m going quicker! I have my own car, but your safest option is to either rent or hire a reliable taxi. Although cheap, tro-tros (Ghana’s public transportation) are prone to breakdowns and accidents.
Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana’s Volta Region
ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS
Liati Wote markets itself as a tourist village (don’t worry, I was initially turned off by this as well, but it’s not what we’re used to when we see that tagline).
There are plenty of tours and options available around town, including multi-day hiking, local gin tours, and surrounding waterfalls, but be warned that each one requires a guide (this is used as a means to boost the local economy).
You can find a guide and look at the options available by checking in at the Liati Wote Toursim Office upon arrival, located at the base of Mount Afadja on the main road of town and typically open 8am, daily.
The tourism office accepts cash only, so come prepared as there are no ATMs within a one hour radius.
Hiking only Mount Afadjato requires a modest fee:
Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)
Non-Ghanaians: 50 GHS (USD 3)
You can add on and combine with a trip to Tagbo Falls (GHS 40/USD 2.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 80/USD 5 for non Ghanaians), or continue past Mount Afadjato to Mount Aduadu (GHS 70/USD 4.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 100/USD 6.50 for non-Ghanaians).
A Note on Guide Fees: Guides for hiking Mount Afadjato and surrounding tours don’t get paid from trail fees, so come prepared to tip them for their service to support their income. For this hike, GHS 50-100 is reasonable (USD 3-6).
The trail fees do, however, contribute to maintaining the paths and supporting local community projects, such as their recycling initiative – something that is unique to this village!
Pro Tip: There are many guides and not many visitors, meaning it’s important to find one of quality. The only one I’ll use is Faith (+233 55 083 0914). I will meet him at the reception office, pay the entrance fee, give him a tip, and often he’ll let me take myself on the trail!
WHAT TO EXPECT: HIKING MOUNT AFADJATO
Although Mount Afadjato is considered a popular tourist destination in Ghana, let me be direct with you: It’s not for everyone. The trail starts on a flat path, but quickly becomes a leg burner, what feels like a perpetual stair climber machine.
Most people will tell you it takes, on average, around 2 hours round trip, which I found to be accurate, but it was by no means easy. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water and fuel.
Along the way you’ll come across convenient rest stops with scenic views, offering the perfect spot to recharge your legs and observe surrounding wildlife.
Did you know that Ghana is home to over 860 species for butterflies? Don’t worry, I didn’t before moving here, but spotting them is one of my favorite parts of spending time in the Volta Region!
Finally, after 45min-1 hour you’ll reach the peak and soak up the sweeping views across Lake Volta, neighboring Togo, and Liati Wote below. You may even spot Togolese coffee farmers wandering the foohills!
The Volta Region is where both Kawa Moka and Jamestown, two of Ghana’s top coffee companies, produce their beans.
For the most part, the trail is well preserved and shorts and t-shirt will suffice, but if you’re planning to go beyond the peak to nearby Mount Aduadu as I did, be sure to wear long pants.
Reaching this secondary mountain requires bushwhacking lesser-frequented pathways and it’s not uncommon to come across snakes and biting ants.
View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Tagbo Falls: Located near Mount Afadjato, this tranquil waterfall is an excellent spot to cool off after your hike. I’d recommend climbing Afadja in the morning, and then continuing on (for an additional trail fee) to Tagbo Falls. It’s a flat, short, 40min hike and the trailheads start from the same location! It’s one on my favorite places to spend an afternoon swimming.
Wli Waterfalls: Ghana’s highest and most famous waterfall is just a short drive away (20min) and offers another fantastic nature experience. Similar to Tagbo, this short trail is accessible to everyone and cooling off in the pool under the cascading water is a spiritual experience.
Amedzofe Village: Amedzofe is Ghana’s highest-elevated settlement, originally established by the Germans during colonial times. The area offers cooler weather, more waterfalls, a better (and less frequented) canopy walk than Kakum National Park, and a small climb to the cross on top of Mt. Gemi. If coming from Ho, you’ll pass the turnoff for Amedzofe along the way (less than 1 hour from Liati Wote).
BEST TIME TO HIKE MOUNT AFADJATO
The Harmattan, or dry season, (November to April) is the best time for hiking, as the trails are less muddy. However, the dust being blown from the Sahara can significantly reduce visibility (although makes for beautiful, glowing sunrise).
The rainy season (May to October) brings lush greenery, making the scenery even more vibrant, but the steep trail can get slippery, so be sure to wear proper footwear and plan accordingly.
Finally, beat the heat and hike Mount Afadjato in the morning. If arranged ahead of time, your guide can meet you at the tourist office before sunrise and you can start on the trail before fighting the humidity.
TOP PACKING TIPS FOR YOUR VISIT TO MOUNT AFADJATO
Shoes are essential. Especially if planning to visit during rainy season. The trail is steep and can quickly become slippery, so it’s safest to have good treads.
Sunscreen and insect repellent. The trail itself traverses dense forest, and the peak is completely exposed so you’ll have to plan for all elements. After years of sweating off my sunscreen in the humidity, I’ve finally switched over to using a stick instead and it’s been a gamechanger!
A good camera. The top of Mount Afadjato provides some of the most stunning views in the area. If you’re into landscape photography, this is the place to come. Personally, my Canon 80d has been my best travel companion over the years.
A quality dry bag. Hiking in West Africa can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. I’ll always bring my Marchway dry bag to protect my valuables.
Don’t forget a quick-dry towel. Whether caught in the rains or planning to add on a visit to Tagbo Falls, a lightweight towel is the perfect item to add to your pack.
Water and Fuel. Regardless of season or time of day, you’ll work hard to get to the top of Mount Afadjato. Come prepared with plenty of water and snacks. There aren’t many options available in town, but you can always also your guide where to pick up supplies.
A reliable SIM card. Traveling outside of Accra is never easy and it pays to have a reliable in-country SIM. Recently, I’ve been using Airalo on my travels and, although I enjoy collects SIM cards, they take away the stress of losing it or always looking for a pin to open the port!
A view into the valley below, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato
Standing on top of Ghana’s tallest mountain at sunrise is a scene I won’t soon forget. Accra is great, but experiencing the breathtaking nature in the Volta Region is a must during any visit to Ghana, and Liati Wote is the perfect place to base.
Explore, rest, and walk away refreshed from your time in these stunning mountains.
Have you conquered Mount Afadjato or plan to visit? Share your experience in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa: Top Tips for an Unbeatable Experience
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life. Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” as it’s sometimes referred to….
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Imagine a sleepy seaside town, unassumingly lying in the shadows of the mountains, but comes to life every year with marine life.
Hermanus, South Africa. Ever heard of it? You may know it as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” as it’s sometimes referred to.
What once was a peaceful village, so much so that doctors used to prescribe visits for recovering tuberculosis patients, now attracts between 75,000 and 130,000 visitors every September/October to celebrate the return of the Southern Right Whales to the harbor.
Less than a two-hour drive from Cape Town, the question isn’t ‘why go’; rather, it’s ‘why not? ' After a month of solo travel around South Africa, Hermanus remains at the top of my list of places to return!
From majestic marine life to stunning coastal views, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your whale-watching trip in Hermanus.
The town of Hermanus, South Africa as seen from the Hermanus Cliff Walk
HISTORY OF HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA
Hermanus, a small coastal town in the Western Cape of South Africa, has long been a haven for southern right whales. These gentle giants migrate to the warm waters of the South African coastline between June and November to mate and calve, en route to warmer Mozambican waters.
The whales get their namesake, “Right”, simply by being labeled as the “right” whale to kill, nearly to the brink of extinction in the early 20th century. Still, these majestic creatures have been protected in South Africa since 1935 and have gradually increased their population.
Other species spotted in Walker’s Bay include Orcas, Humpback Whales, and Byrde’s Whales.
Whale watching originally began in Hermanus as a land-based activity, thanks to the incredible visibility from the town’s cliffs. In fact, the 12km cliff walk is still an easy (and free) way to spot the whales from the shore.
So much so, in 1992 Hermanus employed an official “Whale Crier” to sound a kelp horn and alert tourists to sightings. Yes, this still exists today, and the Hermanus Whale Crier is the only one of its kind in the world!
Fun fact: At one point, Hermanus and the town Whale Crier was so popular, that he was known as the second most photographed South African… behind Nelson Mandela.
Today, companies like Southern Right Charters offer eco-friendly boat tours that bring you closer to these magnificent creatures while respecting their natural habitat.
Sunrise over Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
HOW TO GET TO HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICA
The beauty in Hermanus is how conveniently located it is, about 120 km (75 miles) from Cape Town, making it an easy weekend getaway. Of course, a day trip works as well but when you arrive and feel the energy, you won’t want to leave.
By Car: Drive along the scenic R43 route, which takes approximately 1.5–2 hours from Cape Town.
I rented a car, picking up and dropping off at Cape Town International Airport. A two-day rental from Alamo cost less than USD 90 and allowed me to explore more along the way. It was completely worth it.
By Shuttle or Tour: Many tour operators offer guided transport options from Cape Town. Check out these reliable options from Get Your Guide if you’d like more relaxation, and less planning!
Pro tip: Opt for the car rental and pair the drive from Cape Town to Hermanus with stopovers at Cape of Good Hope and Boulders Beach to make the most of this scenic drive.
Interested in more posts from South Africa? Click here to check out more content!
WHALE WATCHING IN HERMANUS: WHAT TO EXPECT
There are a limited number of tour operators licensed to move from Hermanus’ Harbor, so be sure to plan in advance during the peak whale-watching season. For my visit, I chose Southern Right Charters because I was trying to make the most of my time in town, and they offer a unique, 6:30am sunrise tour that no one else does.
Southern Right is one of the most trusted and environmentally responsible companies for whale watching in Hermanus, having been in operation since 1999, so it seemed like a perfect fit (and it was). Here’s what you need to do before booking a tour:
Details & Costs
Tour Duration: A trip can last anywhere between 1.5-3 hours, with most excursions averaging 2 hours. They don’t limit a trip based on time, rather it's based upon the best experience possible.
Cost (as of April 2025):
Adults: R1440 (USD 75)
Students/Seniors: R1350 (USD 70)
Under 12: R720 (USD 40)
Under 3: Free
Booking: It's best to reserve your spot online in advance, especially during peak season, however bookings can be made in person at their office.
Note: Remember this tour is about spotting wildlife and Southern Right Charters can’t control how many whales are seen. One of the perks of booking through this company is that they offer either a 50% refund or a free reservation on another tour if your trip is canceled, interrupted, or unsuccessful.
A Southern Right Whale breaches the waters of Walker Bay in Hermanus, South Africa
HOW TO PREPARE FOR A SOUTHERN RIGHT CHARTERS TOUR
I visited in August and one thing I did NOT account for after living in West Africa for a year, was that it was winter in South Africa. That, combined with the 6:30am pre-sunrise departure, let’s just say I was grossly underprepared.
So, here’s your chance to learn from my mistakes!
1. Layer Up. Both base layers and an outer layer to cut the wind. The trip sets off in the dark. Whether seated inside the catamaran or standing on the top deck, you’ll the crisp morning air. Needless to say, my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket was well worth the investment.
2. Pack gloves or hand warmers. There’s nothing worse than spotting a whale rolling in the waves with the sun rising in the background and going to snap a photo with frozen fingers. The warm drinks that Southern Right Charters offers is a good start, but best to back a back-up plan. Here’s the power bank/electric warmer I never leave home without, because you don’t want your phone to die or hands to freeze as you get to take the photo of the year!
3. Any medications needed. Yes, Southern Right has a boat that offers maximum stability, but this does not mean you won’t sill be rocking and rolling in the waves. If you get seasick, plan ahead. You don’t want to feel unwell on a magical experience like this! If you don’t like medication, try these anti-nausea bands that use acupressure. They were a lifesaver during my time on Semester at Sea!
4. Get there early. Each trip starts with a required safety briefing. Don’t be that late shower that holds the group up. Get there ahead of the suggested time and be ready to go.
Overall, I’d highly recommend the sunrise tour as it was a unique experience to witness the whales rolling in the waves with sand dunes and the sun rising over the mountains as a backdrop. This trip was right up there on my list of top whale watch experiences, right alongside Kaikoura, New Zealand.
Of course, South Africa is far more than just whale watching so it’s important to plan ahead, do your research, and put together a comprehensive packing list!
Setting out with Southern Right Charters at sun rise for a whale watch excursion
OTHER WAYS TO WHALE WATCH
No problem! That’s where the Hermanus Cliff Walk comes into action. This 12km paved pathway winds its way along the rocky coastline, providing the ultimate viewpoints to whale watch from land.
Personally, I spent my morning with Southern Right Charters on the sunrise tour, and the rest of the day spotting Southern Right Whales breaching the waters from the cliff walk while popping in and out of cafes around town. It's hard to miss the whales with a reliable Whale Crier surveilling the bay!
Note: As the path is paved, most of the cliff walk is accessible to wheelchairs, making it easy for anyone to experience the magic of whale watching.
A Southern Right Whale spotted from the Hermanus Cliff Walk in South Africa
BEYOND WHALE WATCHING IN HERMANUS
Although world famous thanks to the Southern Right Whales, Hermanus is more than just marine life with plenty to explore. Located on Market Square St. in the heart of town is the Old Harbor Market, a collection of handcrafts and locally made goods.
Spend an afternoon wandering the Whale Museum or hop between cozy coffee shops to slow down and enjoy village life (Platō Coffee is my favorite).
Looking for more activity and nature? Be sure to explore the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and all 60km of trails that zigzag through the mountains.
WHERE TO STAY FOR THE BEST HERMANUS EXPERIENCE
For my trip, I chose to stay at an Airbnb after finding this cozy place located just across the street from the Hermanus Cliff Walk. It was a perfect mix of peace and quiet while remaining within walking distance of the town center and a supermarket.
Other options include Hermanus Backpackers ($), Zzzone Boutique Hostel ($$), and Bamboo Guest House ($$$).
Pro Tip: Ever heard of load shedding? This is when planned power outages occur in South Africa to conserve the energy grid. After living in West Africa for nearly three years, it was a welcomed improvement to at least be told when the power would cut and for how long! Pay attention so you can be sure your devices are charged ahead of time.
Sunrise from the helm of Southern Right Charters tour in Hermanus, South Africa
A whale-watching trip in Hermanus is an unparalleled experience and at the top of my list of things to do in South Africa. Whether you're spotting these majestic creatures from the boat or enjoying the coastal walkway of Hermanus, this journey is well worth the short trip from Cape Town.
Have you been whale watching in Hermanus or elsewhere around the world? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls…
Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.
If you haven’t caught on yet, I’m a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.
Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!
Ghana’s Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: WLI FALLS BACKGROUND
Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.
Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. You’ll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.
So, now that you’re hooked, when’s the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.
Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.
In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but you’ll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, I’d choose the rainy season, but it’s a great place to spend an afternoon either way.
Finally, it’s important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).
Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!
Standing beneath Ghana’s Wli Waterfalls
HOW TO GET TO WLI WATERFALLS
Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.
To get here…
By Car: From Accra, it’s about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).
By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.
Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.
ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS
For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.
Entry Fee (Lower Falls):
Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)
Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)
Upper Falls Guided Hikes:
Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)
Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)
Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.
Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghana’s economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.
Interested in exploring more of Ghana’s Volta Region? Check out these posts:
WHAT TO EXPECT AT WLI FALLS
LOWER FALLS
A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghana’s lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. You’ll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.
You’ll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch them flying off the rocks
Upper Falls
For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.
Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.
Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, you’ll be on your way back out!
Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana
NEARBY PLACES TO VISIT
Make your trip even more memorable by exploring more nature near Wli Waterfalls:
Amedzofe Canopy Walk: A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where you’ll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.
Mount Afadja (Afadjato): Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.
Tagbo Falls: Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghana’s nature.
WHAT TO BRING
Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.
Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you don’t plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghana’s heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.
Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if there’s a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.
Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!
A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africa’s tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.
A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a trip—it’s an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether you’re splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, you’ll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.
Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
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A Complete Guide to Visiting the World's Largest Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo
A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries…
Note: All information below is updated as of March 2025, but as countries in West Africa rapidly change, so too can provided facts and figures.
A quick search for ‘things to do in Togo’ and it becomes clear; there’s not much happening with the tourism industry beyond the Grand Market in Lomé, the lush nature of Kpalimé, and the sleepy seaside town of Aneho.
It’s no wonder that one of the main tourist sites remains the Akodessawa Market, more commonly known as the Voodoo Market.
A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries, including in neighboring Benin where Voodoo is the official religion.
Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.
**NOTE: Photos below include dead animals. Proceed with caution!**
A vendor at the Akodessawa Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo sells ingredients
A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE VOODOO MARKET
Voodoo, or Vodun, originated in West Africa and has deep roots in the region's spiritual practices. A form of animalism, the religion has over 40 different gods or fetiches, and each one chooses their feticheur or fetish priest with whom they communicate.
Guides at Akodessawa Market are quick to point out that ‘Black Magic’ isn’t bad. Although it’s widely practiced and holds a negative connotation, it stems from colonialism, as European colonizers felt the need to label these Indigenous spiritual practices. The term “black” was used to symbolize something negative about the locals, leveraging the fear of the unknown to further create division amongst the population.
Opening in 1863, this hub in Akodessawa has quickly become the world’s largest Voodoo market through a sort of “farm-to-table approach”. Most fetish markets only supply ingredients, requiring buyers to commute between priest locations whereas in Lomé, fetish priests are onsite to provide immediate guidance.
Whether you're searching for remedies, seeking a talisman, or need counsel from a fetish priest, the market provides an authentic dive into Voodoo culture. The guides emphasize that only “white magic” is practiced here, so don’t worry, the only purpose is to help and heal rather than hurt.
A shrine for Vodun Gou, or the Iron God, protects the market. Goat and sheep sacrifices produce the black color from the sun-dried blood.
HOW TO GET AKODESSAWA VOODOO MARKET
The Voodoo Market is located in Akodessawa, a district of Lomé, the capital of Togo.
By Car/Taxi: From Lomé city center, it’s about a 15-minute drive to the market. Taxis are affordable and widely available.
By Moto-Taxi: For a more adventurous ride hop on a moto-taxi, the most efficient means of transport. When transiting through the busy Lomé port, my moto driver hopped onto the sidewalk and passed the stand-still traffic! Problem solved.
By Public Transport: Minibuses heading to Akodessawa can drop you off near the market.
Pro tip: Ask locals for directions or use navigation apps to avoid confusion, as the market isn’t always well-marked. Google Maps is accurate, whether using ‘Akodessawa Market’ or ‘Voodoo Market’.
ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS
There’s a small entrance fee of around 3,000 CFA francs (less than USD 5). A guide is required and although I don’t normally use one in this part of the world, it turned out to be the most important part of truly understanding what the fetish market is.
If you’re interested in purchasing souvenirs or talismans, prices can vary widely, so don’t be afraid to haggle.
Pro tip: A photography permit comes with an extra 2,000 CFA charge, a little more than USD 3 (it is said that this fee is “negotiated with the gods,” so prepare for some flexibility).
Dead animal parts for sale used to make powders and pastes by fetish priests
WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE MARKET
To sum it up… prepare for sensory overload! One of the first things people note is the putrid smell, a combination of deceased animals with the scorching sun. Truthfully, it didn’t bug me all that much, but maybe that’s due to semesters spent in cadaver labs. Either way, know the possibility is there.
Upon entry, you’ll be asked to pay the small entrance cost, be greeted by your tour guide, and slowly make your way around the market. Statues of gods are dotted around the dusty, open lot while vendors with crocodile skin, monkey heads, dead cats, and more line the perimeter.
Unique to the market environment is that it is, first and foremost, a functioning local market, but also a thriving tourist site. The people arriving on motos are in search of ingredients for powders and cures, the people shuffling in and out of the priests’ shacks are there for spiritual guidance. The Akodessawa market is a rare mix between tourism and local life.
The most touristic part of the market? The makeshift voodoo dolls that are known to Westerners as the preconceived ‘black magic’, but no one is coming here to curse others and poke them in the chest. Rather, people are in search of love healing, fertility, and even blessings for safe travel.
Keep an open mind and respect the culture—this is not just a tourist attraction but a living, spiritual space. People often travel from neighboring Benin to buy supplies and consult with priests.
Once finished exploring the grounds, the guide will usher you into a shack where you'll meet with a local fetish priest and learn about different talismans. The four presented to me were for good luck, love, safe travels, and to help with bad dreams. In classic tourism fashion, the priest then asks if you wish to purchase any (for a far-too-expensive fee). Smart move, because who wants to haggle with a priest?
Pro tip: As noted above, this is a functional local market with religious significance. Be sure to ask permission before taking photographs.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Once done roaming the Voodoo Market, make the most of your trip to Togo by exploring these nearby attractions:
Lomé Grand Market: A bustling marketplace where you can find everything from colorful fabrics to fresh produce. Arguably the most photographed spot in Togo, this is where you can glimpse the Sacred Heart Cathedral amidst the bustling streets.
Independence Monument: A symbol of Togo’s independence, the monument is located in the heart of the city.
Togoville: A historic town across Lake Togo, known as the birthplace of voodoo.
International Museum of the Gulf of Guinea: An unassuming house filled with woodwork and art from around West Africa. A nominal fee is required to enter.
Aneho: Where the sea meets Lake Togo’s estuary, this sleepy beach town is the perfect escape from city life and is conveniently located on the border with Benin.
Ingredients for sale in Lomé’s Akodessawa Market, Togo
A visit to Lomé’s Voodoo Market is an unforgettable journey into the heart of West African indigenous beliefs. Whether you’re a history buff, a curious traveler, or a spiritual seeker, this market promises a fascinating and immersive experience. Would I return? Absolutely. There's still so much to unpack and learn about this misrepresented part of the world.
Would you visit the Voodoo Market? Let me know in the comments below and as always, safe travels!
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