Three Years Living in Africa: 10 Experiences I’ll Never Forget
After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the world…
Three years isn't a lifetime, but it's long enough for a place to change you. When I packed up my apartment in Chicago and moved to Ghana in 2022, I expected a change of scenery, maybe an adventure here and there or at least a good story to come home and tell when I, what I figured would be inevitably, decided to return home.
What I didn't expect was how dramatically my perspective on travel, nature, and life would shift; how the journey would become much more impactful than the destination.
Looking back, these aren't necessarily the "best" places I've visited. They're simply the moments that have stayed with me the most.
Three Years, Ten Experiences That Changed Everything
10. Wechiau Hippo Community Sanctuary, Ghana
Imagine yourself in a dugout canoe with a single paddle, a rushing Volta River in one of the most remote parts of Northern Ghana, and a bloat of hippos staring you down while you hang onto the shoreline branches.
In Ghana’s Upper West Region, along the border with Burkina Faso, the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary protects a 40-kilometer stretch of the Black Volta River and the surrounding woodlands.
The flooded waters of the Black Volta River, separating Ghana (right) from Burkina Faso (left)
It’s not easy to reach; we managed to arrive after 3 days of driving endless dirt roads from the Eastern Region, but it was well worth the effort. We had spoken to someone who had visited the week prior, spent hours on the river, and didn’t manage to see a single hippopotamus.
As we entered the small house that doubled as a museum, our guides were excited to tell us they had just concluded a census and knew exactly where to look, so we hopped back in the car, picked up our boat captain at the next village en route to the river bank, and off we went. Within ten minutes of paddling against a heavy current, we found ourselves face to face with these majestic animals, nothing but a wooden canoe between us and turning into their afternoon snack.
It sounds a bit crazy, right? It was, but it was also raw and stripped down; the purest form of seeing these hippos in Ghana in their most wild state.
A bloat of hippos in the flooded Black Volta River, part of the protected Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana
9. Lake Kivu, Rwanda
Central Africa had been brewing in my mind. Ever since reading Heart of Darkness in high school, the Congo and its mysteries have been tucked away into my subconscious. The longer I stay in Africa, the more I find myself daydreaming about it.
Traveling to Rwanda was a last-second decision, less than a week between booking the ticket and boarding the plane, so I didn’t have much planned beyond knowing I wanted to at least see the Congo, even if I couldn’t enter. Lake Kivu was the closest I could get.
Mount Nyiragongo, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, with Lake Kivu in the foreground
Rwanda is a complex country with a dark history, having endured the 1994 Tutsi genocide. It’s a tiny nation filled with greenery and rolling hills, but one gets the sense of something “deeper” going on, and the truth is, the fallout from the genocide is a major driving force behind the current conflict in Eastern Congo, but I digress.
Lake Kivu straddles Rwanda and the Congo and sits at the base of active volcanoes with tectonic plates nearby. Why is this important? Large amounts of carbon dioxide and methane gas are trapped at the bottom, and scientists believe a volcanic eruption or earthquake may just be enough to shake the water levels and release the toxic gas.
One can’t deny the natural beauty, though. At the time of my visit, both the Rwandan and Congolese Governments were set to reopen the border at Gisenyi. I spent my time staring across Lake Kivu, into the Congo, and listening to stories from my Belgian host about growing up in Bukavu and her experience living in post-genocide Rwanda, and, of course, swimming in Lake Kivu, flanked by conflict to the west and volcanoes to the east.
A boat floats on Lake Kivu at sunset as a storm rolls in, shot looking towards the Democratic Republic of the Congo
Rwanda left me with more questions than answers. A country scarred by its unimaginable history, embroiled in regional conflict, and a lake that’s one natural event away from disaster - how much can one place endure? Time will tell. In the meantime, I’ll carry the stunning scenery of Lake Kivu with me for a long while.
8. São Tomé and Príncipe
The second smallest sovereign state in Africa, one of the least visited countries in the world, São Tomé and Príncipe is less than a two hour flight from Accra and, seemingly, a convenient place to explore for someone living in Ghana.
Although a short flight, São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t the easiest to visit. The country isn’t on the international banking system, which means credit cards don’t work outside of higher end hotels and most foreign debit cards aren’t accepted at ATMs. That means that a certain level of planning and foresight (neither are a strong suit of mine) are important to ensuring you don’t run out of cash during your stay.
Porto Alegre, a remote village on the southern part of São Tomé, is one of the more difficult places to reach on the island
A few torrential rain storms and an overheated rental car later, São Tomé treated me to unspoiled nature like I’ve never seen, highlighted by coastal drives, coffee plantations, and the majestic Pico Grande, a volcanic plug that dominates the interior landscape of the country.
Such low tourism numbers also come with poor infrastructure. Roads are often difficult to navigate, especially after rain, power and phone networks frequently cut out, and healthcare is challenging to access. São Tomé and Príncipe isn’t necessarily a place to vacation, rather a trip to see, experience, and be a part of.
It’s one of the few places I’ve traveled where I truly felt disconnected from the outside world, where being present was the norm, not the exception.
The island of São Tomé is filled with unspoiled nature and landscapes
7. Liwonde National Park, Malawi
Liwonde National Park encompasses 54,000 hectares of land and stretches along the Shire River, making it one of the premier wildlife destinations in Malawi.
By day, the winding dirt roads yielded spectacular sightings: juvenile elephants attempting to assert their dominance, a cheetah digesting a fresh kill, and more.
As the scorching sun started to dip, I, along with the few other guests, clamored onto a boat and headed towards the Shire River.
Out in the open water, we quickly heard grunting, and a hippopotamus surfaced from below. Then another. And another. “Behind us”, our guide shouted as three more surfaced with a loud noise. “Look ahead,” another person said as five more appeared in the distance.
Hippos breach the surface of the Shire River inside Liwonde National Park, Malawi
For a period of time, I didn’t know where to look. As we bobbed up and down in the boat, hippos kept coming and going, seemingly nonstop, so much so that I lost count. I later found out that Liwonde National Park is home to an estimated 2,500 of them!
We continued making our way through the traffic, approaching a family of elephants on the riverbank as they cooled themselves in the water with the evening glow perfectly illuminating the scene. Again, a splash of water, a grunt, and an exclamation: “more hippos, turn around”.
The sun sets along the flooded shores of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park, Malawi
I had come across these majestic, yet volatile animals one other time before this trip, but never in this quantity and certainly not from the confines of a rickety boat with nowhere to go.
As we returned to camp at sunset, all I can remember was the feeling of peace and gratitude, ready for a good night’s sleep after a full day immersed in nature.
6. Sunrise Whale Watching in Hermanus, South Africa
Ever since whale watching in Kaikoura, New Zealand, I constantly find myself researching whale migration patterns anytime I take a trip that’s remotely near the coast. As it turns out, August is one of the peak viewing months for Southern Right Whales and the town of Hermanus, South Africa, located less than two hours' drive from Cape Town, is considered to be the whale watching capital of the world.
Too good to be true since I happened to have a month off work in August, right?
My thoughts exactly.
The morning light illuminates the bay in Hermanus, South Africa
Working with a small budget, I opted for the cheapest excursion I could find, which meant waking up at 4 am, bundling up in layers, sleepily making my way to the harbor, boarding a boat in the frigid dark, and heading out to the bay.
Soon enough, the orange glow of the sun warmed the cool South African winter morning as whales played in the waves around us.
Between an unbeatable sunrise scene and several whale sightings, this was one of the highlights of my time spent in South Africa, and an experience I won’t soon forget.
A whale breaches the water in the morning light in Hermanus, South Africa
5. Nyika National Park, Malawi
A quick internet search labels Nyika National Park as one of the most remote and hardest-to-get-to parts of Malawi.
Located in the Northeast of the country, the park itself spans into neighboring Zambia; however, it’s only accessible from the Malawian side.
Sitting on a plateau that rises to 2,600m, the name “Nyika” is derived from the phrase “where the water comes from.”
As Malawi’s largest, Nyika National Park is home to herds of zebra and is said (unsubstantiated in recent years), to have the highest density of leopards in Central Africa. From the logistics just to reach the entry gate to the unique and remote landscapes that awaited, I knew it was a must-visit.
The rolling hills of Nyika National Park are often compared to the Scottish Highlands
So, I made my way from Southern Malawi to the north, using any means necessary, from car to moto to public ferry (see MV Ilala below), and finishing with a shared taxi to Mzuzu. Here, I picked up my Toyota Fortuner and set off.
Each time I mentioned “Nyika” as my destination at the police checkpoints, the officer grinned and said, “car might not make it, good luck.” A normal human being might get deterred after the fifth time, but it simply made me more intrigued.
The further I drove, the more the roads narrowed, and I began to question Google Maps. This seemingly endless, single-lane dirt road with no one in sight isn’t the best way to reach the park, right?
Wrong.
Sure enough, after hours of contemplating the repercussions of bursting a tire or overheating the car alone in the middle of nowhere in Malawi, a small cluster of homes appeared and led to the gates of Nyika National Park.
To describe the park as remote is an understatement. So much so that a worker asked to hitch a ride to the campsite; otherwise, he would have to walk the 60km to work and hope that a ride passed by. As it turns out, my new friend was extremely helpful when the car bottomed out and got stuck in the dense mud tracks 30km into the park.
Zebras are one of the most dense animal populations inside Nyika National Park
I finally reached the campsite by nightfall, pitched my tent, dressed in every layer possible (admittedly, as I’m sure you can tell, I did not extensively research this trip before doing it and was severely underprepared), and settled in as one of three visitors in the entire 1250 square mile park.
The morning sun and campfire was a welcomed warmth to a shivering night. My guide walked me through the rolling hills, spotting herds of zebra along the way, before a solo mountain bike around the campsite in the evening.
I’m not sure if it was the nature itself or the effort it took to get there, but either way, Nyika National Park is a top thing to do in Malawi, as far as I’m concerned.
4. Togo’s Akodessawa Voodoo Market
Imagine you’re on the back of a motorbike in Lome, Togo. You arrive at your destination, step onto the sandy road with the afternoon sun beating down, and breathe in.
You nearly gag at the stench, turn a corner, and see an open space; stalls of dead animals line an open space, with a sculpture covered at the center, blackened by sundried blood sacrifices.
Welcome to Togo’s Akodessawa Fetish Market, the largest of its kind in the world.
For West Africans, it’s the one-stop shop for ingredients needed for the Voodoo religion, but for me, it was one of those moments that was a stark reminder of where I was in the world.
Regular blood sacrifices turn the sculpture black from the sunlight
I didn’t quite know what I was getting myself into. The only concepts I had of Voodoo were dolls used as a source of revenge and curses, but, as I learned, the term “Black Magic” came with colonial roots. A way to fearmonger and create divide, to justify ongoing occupation of Africa.
Strolling around the market, we encountered everything from monkey tails to puppy heads, snake skin, and more. But what we didn’t find was anything “dark”. Instead, Voodoo priests consult with visitors on intrinsic desires, like ensuring safe travels, finding love, or obtaining financial security.
Needless to say, I went into this day with zero expectations, but came away with a deeper, more meaningful understanding and respect of the parts of West African culture that we don’t often learn about.
A dusty stall sells common ingredients for Fetish Priests, just one of many at Akodessawa Festish Market
3. Sani Pass, Lesotho and South Africa
As I planned for a month in South Africa, I kept coming back to the Sani Pass. A 9km stretch of tumultuous road descending from the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho and into South Africa, often described as one of the most thrilling 4x4 roads in the world, it’s commonly touted as the “Roof of Africa”.
What could possibly go wrong, right?
In this case, a failed 4x4 car rental, an adjusted itinerary, no phone working in Lesotho, and that’s just the beginning.
When the car rental agency said they couldn’t honor the 4x4 reservation, my brain immediately went to “how do I make this work?” I had planned to drive up the pass from South Africa into Lesotho, but surely coming down would be easier.
I took the next few hours to adjust my itinerary, working in reverse, and drove into Lesotho at another order before reaching the pass at the top.
A car carefully navigates the start of the Sani Pass, descending from Lesotho into South Africa
It was a windy morning, so much so that I could barely open the car door and stand up straight. I sat at the Sani Mountain Escape for hours, warming myself with a cup of coffee, watching vehicles struggle up the pass and constantly questioning myself and what I was about to do.
As the afternoon rush of tourists from the South African side entered the pub, it was now or never. I walked across the empty road into the Lesotho immigration shack, stamped my passport, got behind the wheel, and slowly started the solo descent in my Rav4.
Thirteen hairpin turns later, each with a comforting name such as “Suicide Bend” and “Devil’s Corner”, I hit the tar again on the South African side, stamped my passport, thanked my lucky stars for the experience, and carried on my way.
To this day, I still vividly hear the final words from the South African Immigration Officer at the bottom border: “This is a 4x4, right?”
“I think so,” I mumbled, before jumping back in the car and driving off.
A view from the bottom of the pass, in South Africa, and back up towards Lesotho, the “Roof of Africa”
2. Hiking Ghana’s Waterfalls
I’m ashamed to admit that I had been visiting Ghana since 2010 as part of Aya, a non-profit founded on the belief that everyone has the right to quality education. That meant that most of the time in the country was spent on hours-long busses between Accra and Berekum instead of exploring.
When I relocated in 2022, I settled in Ghana’s Eastern Region and was exposed to the natural beauty.
The Akuapem-Togo mountain range, as seen from Ghana, which makes up part of the border with Togo
Fast forward three years and some of my favorite places to explore are the mountains of the Volta Region, on the border with Togo. Not only will you find Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s tallest peak, here, but the area is also home to stunning waterfalls and hikes.
Nothing beats an early evening stroll to Wli Waterfalls or a morning hike and swim at Tagbo Falls. Make a weekend of it and unwind at Tagbo Falls Ecolodge, one of the best places for some rest and relaxation.
Tagbo Falls as seen from above in Liati Wote, Ghana
1. MV Ilala Ferry, Lake Malawi
Many people ask “why Malawi,” and, to be honest, I don’t really have an answer. I had a month off from work, a flight credit to use, and Malawi fit the criteria of within budget, filled with nature, and plenty of unknowns. So, my response to this question ends up being “why not.”
One experience that I kept coming back to while researching the country was the MV Ilala.
This historic ferry was built in 1949 in Scotland and has since been ferrying passengers and cargo up and down the shores of Lake Malawi since its launch in 1951. Carrying up to 360 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, the MV Ilala runs the length of the lake, from Monkey Bay up to Chilumba near the Tanzanian border, on a weekly schedule.
Passengers help load both cargo and people into fishing boats below, the only way to get to shore at many ports
I needed a way to connect the southern part of my Malawi itinerary to Nyika National Park, and what better way to do that than spend 40 hours on a ferry, packed to the brim with 300+ new friends?
Skeptical that the email I sent a week in advance was enough to secure a cabin, I arrived in Monkey Bay early in the morning to a throng of people and cargo, waiting in line, and was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process.
Ticket in hand, I navigated the crowd and boarded, watching from the top deck as passengers loaded everything from mattresses to stoves, and more. Soon enough, we left the port and were on our way.
Many of the ports of call along the route are too shallow for the ferry to dock, so it was a shock to me when we dropped anchor and fishing boats came out to collect people and baggage, a stream of traffic climbing up and down the side of the ship.
At the second stop, one of the MV Ilala’s official shore boats stalled its engine and was left stranded bobbing up and down in the lake’s waves, signaling for help from shore. By the time that was solved, the weather had turned, winds picked up, and the captain was afraid of capsizing, so we stayed put off the shores of Senga Bay, effectively delaying our travel by 7+ hours.
The sun sets along Lake Malawi as we dropped anchor and spent the night after winds picked up
After waking the next morning and wondering why it felt like we weren’t moving (in reality, because we weren’t), the captain cleared us to continue.
A fellow traveler and I decided to disembark at Likoma Island to stretch our legs. As the sun set, we made our way back to the port, elbowed our way into one of the wooden shuttle boats that were so deep you had to stand and use each other for support, before making our way back to the ship in the dark.
I’m convinced that re-boarding is a special skill, having to wait until the waves lift your boat up, grabbing hold of the railings at the right time, and hoisting yourself back onto the ferry with the help of people behind you making sure you don’t fall backwards.
Getting on and off the MV Ilala is often an adventure in itself, climbing from the side of the sip into awaiting fishing boats
On we went, eventually reaching Nkhata Bay at 3 am. I descended below deck to the massive crowd crush trying to disembark, tossed my bags into a waiting boat, and climbed through the dark to reach them. We finally made it to shore after 2+ days traveling Lake Malawi, I pitched my tent in the dead of night, and watched the MV Ilala Ferry pull out of port the next morning from shore.
An experience I won’t forget anytime soon.
Looking Back
I’m now on year four of living in West Africa, and although it’s taught me so much, there’s plenty more to learn and absorb.
This move and these experiences have brought a necessary shift in my perspective, a boost in resilience and adaptability, and, despite the chaos, a level of calmness I never experienced living in the United States.
Thanks for reading, and cheers to whatever adventures may lie ahead in this crazy life of ours.
What are some of your favorite travel stories? Share in the comments below and, until next time, stay safe & happy travels.
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7 Life Changing Books Every Traveler Should Read for a New Perspective
As Anthony Bourdain once stated, “It seems that the more places I see and experience, the bigger I realize the world to be. The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know of it, how many places I have to still go, and how much more there is to learn.” So, without further ado, here are 7 books that have shifted my perspective and changed the way I view the world around me this past year…
Admittedly, reading wasn’t necessarily my “thing” when I was growing up. But the more I’ve been fortunate enough to travel, the more I’ve grown curious. Why is the world the way it is? What’s on both sides of a cultural conflict? How has history shaped what I see before my eyes today?
As Anthony Bourdain once stated, “It seems that the more places I see and experience, the bigger I realize the world to be. The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know of it, how many places I have to still go, and how much more there is to learn.”
So, without further ado, here are 7 of the best books for travelers to expand their worldviews in 2026 and beyond.
Happy reading!
The Lemon Tree
Author: Sandy Tolan
Goodreads: 4.1/5
About this book:
Based on a true story, The Lemon Tree narrates the invisible connection between a Palestinian man and an Israeli woman who both lived in the same home at Ramla, just at separate times.
Nearly twenty years after being driven from their family home, Bashir returns to his childhood home after the Six-Day War, leading him to strike a friendship with Dalia, part of a Jewish family that had sought refuge from Bulgaria and now lived in the Bashir family home.
A story told within a deep-rooted conflict, Tolan brings humanity back to the center of it all. For those, like myself, who may not have the widest breadth of knowledge about the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, The Lemon Tree is a great starting point that provides context on just how far back the narrative goes, while interweaving an unlikely friendship that formed through it all.
Why travelers should read it:
Even if you don’t plan to travel to Palestine or Israel anytime soon, this book is crucial to better understanding the world, and the disagreements within it. It’s a testament to the strings that bond us in humanity before conflict.
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Shake Hands with the Devil
Author: Romeo Dallaire
Goodreads: 4.2/5
About this Book:
Few trips have stopped me in my tracks like a recent visit to Rwanda, the Land of a Thousand Hills. The narrative that we hear now about the country is true: it’s clean and safe, but it’s clear there’s a deeper cut that’s still healing.
Wander through Kigali long enough, and it’s inevitable to stumble upon the bullet-ridden buildings that came under siege in 1994. Pay a visit to sites like the Genocide Memorial, where 250,000 of the estimated 1,000,000 people that died are laid to rest, or the old Camp Kigali, where Belgian UN Peacekeepers were cornered and murdered. It’s clear how this premeditated chain of events changed the course of this African nation.
With little recognition and support for what was happening on the ground during the genocide, responsibility fell to Romeo Dallaire, a Canadian commander of the UN Peacekeeping mission in Rwanda (UNAMIR), to convince cooler heads to prevail and protect the most vulnerable people.
Why travelers should read it:
Narrating an international failure that still has geopolitical impact today, most notably the Rwandan-backed M23 rebels in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Shake Hands with the Devil is Dallaire’s first-hand account of his time in command during a brutal and generational-changing 100-day genocide in Rwanda.
This book isn’t for the faint of heart, but it’s important to read to understand the region as the way it is today, especially if you plan to travel there.
Get it on Amazon | Kindle
The Book of Joy: Lasting Happiness in a Changing World
Authors: Dalai Lama and Archbishop Desmond Tutu
Goodreads: 4.4/5
About this book:
The Book of Joy is my grounding force when I need it the most. The authors alone should add some weight to the book’s contents, but the pages speak for themselves.
The title says it all; the world is changing, distractions are plenty, crisis is everywhere, so how can humanity find happiness amongst the chaos when we feel we’re in our darkest hours?
Archbishop Desmond Tutu and the Dalai Lama team up to reflect on their own lives and experiences, having both suffered through exile and oppression, and offer practical steps they’ve learned over time to cultivate our own joy through habits and mindset.
Why travelers should read it:
It’s an easy read, but one that’s practical and perspective-shifting. This book will help travelers of all walk of love navigate the chaos in the world, regardless of the culture within. After all, happiness and joy should be universal!
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Long Walk to Freedom
Author: Nelson Mandela
Goodreads: 4.4/5
About this book:
I originally bought this book as a used copy from a seller at Greenmarket Square on my first trip to Cape Town back in 2010, for no reason other than it had Nelson Mandela’s name on it.
As I mentioned earlier, reading wasn’t exactly my thing, and I’m ashamed to admit the book collected dust in the basement for nearly a decade, intimidated by the 600+ pages (again, not proud of it).
It wasn’t until 2020, during overnight shifts through the COVID pandemic, that I became utterly captivated by Nelson Mandela’s story.
Long Walk to Freedom is the autobiography of Mandela, telling the story from his roots as a foster son in a traditional culture to a starving student in Johannesburg experiencing a political uprising, and onwards to twenty-seven years in prison on Robben Island before becoming South Africa’s first democratically elected president in 1994.
Why travelers should read it:
His story is nothing short of inspiring and motivating, most notably leading the way towards a peaceful transition of power in a post-apartheid society through reconciliation and forgiveness, despite his imprisonment and treatment.
This isn’t a story to pass on or a legacy I want to forget anytime soon. Nelson Mandela’s Long Walk to Freedom is proof of just how much a single person can endure to unite a nation full of differences.
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Learn more about these can’t-miss South Africa Experiences:
My Beautiful Sisters: A Memoir of Courage, Hope, and the Afghan Women’s Soccer Team
Author: Khalida Popal
Goodreads: 4.4/5
About this book:
Imagine being a young woman in a Taliban-controlled Afghanistan, having to flee to neighboring Pakistan. That perspective alone is enough to shift my mind.
Enter Khalida, a young refugee turned activist who returned to Kabul with her family, only to fall more in love with the beautiful game of football. Throughout the story, Popal forms club teams in secret, infiltrates the Afghanistan Football Federation, securing a job as overseeing the women’s program, and co-captaining the first Afghanistan Women’s National Team.
No obstacle too big, no death threat too serious to stop Khalida from empowering young women through sport. That is, until the day it all came crashing down and she was forced to flee.
Why travelers should read it:
Despite her life seemingly falling apart, Khalida worked to save over 350 female football players from the rule of the Taliban, never folding and continuing to dig her feet in the sand, going to toe-to-toe with Federation officials and never losing sight of her purpose.
An unequivocally perspective-shifting story from a truly inspirational human being.
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Eating to Extinction: The World’s Rarest Foods and Why We Need to Save Them
Author: Dan Saladino
Goodreads: 4.3/5
About this book:
BBC food journalist Dan Saladino creates a striking narrative surrounding the world’s food system.
Consider for a second that ninety-five percent of the milk drunk in the United States comes from one breed of cow, nearly all modern apple varieties can be traced back to the Tian Shan Mountains in Kazakhstan, and one in four beers drunk around the world comes from a single brewer.
As the world moved towards convenience and commercialization, we’ve sacrificed diversity, and this in turn has led to steep, sometimes irreversible effects. Less diversity means lower resilience to pests and diseases, further shrinking the food supply.
Why travelers should read it:
Eating to Extinction follows Saladino around the world, recounting fascinating stories from honey gatherers in Tanzania to wheat farmers in Turkey, and the rare highland coffee growers in Sierra Leone.
A book that is guaranteed to give you a different perspective on the interconnectedness of the world around us, especially as you continue to explore new cultures. You might look at what’s in front of you on your plate in a new lens!
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Homegoing
Author: Yaa Gyasi
Goodreads: 4.5/5
About this book:
After living in Ghana for nearly three years and having learned about the side of the slave trade not taught in school, from the Cape Coast Castle up to the Salaga Slave Market, Homegoing proved vital to going beyond the textbooks.
A Goodreads Readers’ Favorite for Historical Fiction in 2016, Yaa Gyasi’s novel follows the strikingly different paths of two half-sisters in eighteenth-century Ghana. One is married off to an Englishman and lives amongst the comfortable confines of Cape Coast Castle, above ground. The other was captured and imprisoned in the dungeons below, unbeknownst to the other.
This stunning and emotional novel goes far beyond the castle, tracing ancestors through generations shaped by captivity, following a story through the plantations in America to the Civil War and beyond.
Why travelers should read it:
Homegoing is a rare and must-read book that helps shape the reality of a culture decimated by greed and slavery, and the very real implications in today’s world. It’s a book every traveler should read before visiting West Africa.
This is a novel that has stuck with me far beyond the pages, and I’m sure it will with you, too.
Get it on Amazon | Kindle | Audible
Explore more Ghana travel inspiration:
To finish the Bourdain quote above, “…Maybe that’s enlightenment enough – to know that there is no final resting place of the mind, no moment of smug clarity. Perhaps wisdom, at least for me, means realizing how small I am, and unwise, how far I have yet to go.”
All of these pages have played an important part in reshaping the world around me, and I’m sure they will for you, too.
What book has changed your perspective on the world and humanity the most? Let me know in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!
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Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana: The Perfect Day Trip from Accra (2026 Guide)
It wasn’t until I began living here full-time that I slowed down enough to appreciate what this country truly offers beyond the cities. One place that continues to stand out is the Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana, a peaceful escape tucked into the Akuapem Hills and easily one of the best day trips from Accra. If you’re looking to trade chaos for calm, this is where you’ll find it…
When I first arrived in Ghana back in 2010 on Semester at Sea, most of my time was spent in transit—moving between bus stations and project sites.
It wasn’t until I began living here full-time that I slowed down enough to appreciate what this country truly offers. Although there are plenty of things to see and do in Accra, Ghana is so much more.
One place that continues to stand out is the Aburi Botanical Gardens, a peaceful escape tucked into the Akuapem Hills and easily one of the best day trips from Accra.
If you’re looking to trade chaos for calm, this is where you’ll find it. Here’s what to expect when visiting Ghana’s Aburi Botanical Gardens.
Aburi Botanical Gardens Quick Facts:
Location: Aburi, Eastern Region (1 hour from Accra)
Hours: 8:30am - 5pm (daily)
Entrance Fees: GHS 20-60 (see more below)
Best Time to Visit: Early morning before the crowds
History of the Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana
The history of the Aburi Botanical Gardens dates back to colonial times, specifically the late 19th century.
In 1875, British officials located the spot and built a sanatorium for recovering officers. The Akuapem Hills offer a peaceful environment with cool mountain air, providing the perfect combination to heal both mind and body.
It wasn’t until 1890 that Governor William Brandford-Griffith and his associate, Dr. John Farrell Easmon, officially converted the land into a botanical garden. At first, it played an important part in shaping Ghana’s agriculture by serving as a place of experimentation for the viability of crops, but as the early 20th century came to be, the site opened to the public on a recreational basis.
To this day, it remains an important partner in plant conservation and education, while serving as one of the most peaceful green spaces in Ghana.
Ready to visit the Aburi Botanical Gardens? Here’s everything you need to know.
Where are the Aburi Botanical Gardens Located? (Accra Distance & Map)
Nestled in the Akuapem Hills, the Aburi Botanical Gardens lies in the Eastern Region of Ghana and high above Accra.
Here’s a breakdown of the best options to reach the gardens:
Uber/Bolt: Costing ~GHS 150 one-way from Central Accra
Taxi: Use reliable contacts and negotiate down for the best rate
Tro-tro: Pick a car at Madina Market at head towards Aburi, costing between GHS 5 and 10 (ask to be dropped near the gardens)
Rideshares are less accessible once at the gardens for a return trip, so it’s important to arrange both ways. Hiring a car for half a day also allows you to visit other spots in the area (more below).
Getting to Aburi from Accra requires a steep climb up the mountainside, with plenty of tight turns. Driving in Ghana isn’t known for its calm energy, so if you tend to get motion sick, either ask the driver to be a bit safer or be sure to bring your medication. You won’t want to miss the stunning views along the way!
Check out these curated tours to make it a full day trip from Accra to Aburi:
Entrance Fees & Opening Hours of the Aburi Botanical Gardens
As of 2026, the price breakdown is as follows (cash only):
Ghanaian Adults: GHS 20
Ghanaian Students: GHS 3
Non-Ghanaian Adults: GHS 60 (~USD 5-6)
Non-Ghanaian Students/Volunteers: GHS 40 (just under USD 4)
In general, the Aburi Botanical Gardens are open to the public from 8:30am-5pm, 7 days a week.
With that said, morning hours tend to be cooler weather and fewer crowds, even more so during weekends when picnics, music, and activities tend to fill the grassy areas.
If you’re like me and prefer to decompress and bathe in the surrounding nature, prioritize an early visit from Accra.
In general, a self-planned trip to Aburi Botanical Gardens can cost between USD 10-40 (from Accra), depending on transportation, number of people traveling, snack and drink purchases onsite, etc.
What to Expect at Aburi Botanical Gardens (Highlights, Experience, and More)
If you’re looking for an escape from the intense heat and chaos of Accra, then a visit to Aburi is a must-add to your itinerary.
The Botanical Gardens provide a peaceful experience with far less crowds than other tourist locations and is popular with both expats and locals alike. On weekends, it’s not uncommon to see families making the winding drive up the hillside from the city below to enjoy the cool breeze and sit in the grass.
As you enter the park, you’ll immediately be mesmerized by the leading lines of the Royal Palm Tree Avenue. From here, the park is the perfect place to wander as paths are unmarked and the nature inviting for all levels of explorers.
Pay close attention, and you’ll spot the first-ever cacao plant to penetrate Ghana’s soil, a cash crop that has brought the country to the second-world-leading producer, and an old rusted military helicopter provides the perfect photo opportunity.
Where to Eat Near Aburi Botanical Gardens
Although not many options inside the park, several restaurants near the Aburi Botanical Gardens provide quality meals. A few options include:
Hillburi ($$): A more middle-of-the-road option with stunning views of Accra and the surrounding mountains. The perfect place for an afternoon cup of coffee to pause and watch the world go by.
Peduase Chophouse ($): A staple of the community with everything from traditional dishes to delicious shawarma and even breakfast options. This is the local experience done right, and on a budget.
Peduase Valley Resort ($$$): Tucked deeper into the lush mountains, Peduase Valley Resort is an upscale option that has multiple restaurants to choose from.
Personally, I always recommend Hillburi to visitors. Quality food, peaceful ambiance, and friendly staff. Consistency in all of the above is often a challenge in Ghana, but I’ve never walked away disappointed from a meal there.
Pro Tip: Try the Obama Burger, still on the menu as a nod to Former United States President Barack Obama from when he visited during his time in office back in 2009.
If you’re planning more Ghana travel, don’t miss my guides to:
Things to Do Near Aburi Botanical Gardens
Although the Botanical Gardens are the main attraction in Aburi, there’s still plenty of experiences nearby, including:
Adom Waterfalls: Located in Obosomase, 5 minutes from the gardens
Obaka/Oboadaka Waterfalls: Approximately a 20-minute drive from the gardens
Aburi Craft Village: Aburi is known for its wood-working prowess. Here you’ll find everything from wooden utensils to tables and jewelry. It’s calmer and less frequented than the Accra Arts Center, so you’ll experience less hawking and be able to move about at a slower pace on your own terms.
We-Ape Adventure Park: A 15-minute drive from the gardens, We-Ape is an adventurer’s paradise. Situated on 3.5 acres of rainforest land, the facility offers two zipline adventure courses, one suitable for family members of all ages and a more advanced course for those looking for a bit more adrenaline.
Travel Tips When Visiting Aburi Botanical Gardens
When visiting Aburi, it’s important to come prepared, as amenities are few and far between once you leave Accra behind. Here are my top packing tips when visiting the Botanical Gardens and the surrounding Aburi area:
Bring Cash: ATMS are not easily accessible, and the gardens are cash-only. Cellular network is often poor and unstable, so even if there is an option to pay by card, it’s not always possible.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: Visiting the Aburi Botanical Gardens is the perfect way to get your steps in and immerse yourself in nature. Bring the right footwear and come prepared for any add-on excursion you may wish to check out.
A Trustworthy Rain Jacket: It’s not uncommon, especially in rainy months, for storms to move through the mountains several times throughout the day, so it’s important to come prepared. I never stray too far away from my house in Ghana without packing my Cotopaxi Cielo Rain Jacket.
Daypack: A half-day trip to Aburi can easily turn into a full day with nearby attractions, so be sure to pack a bag with enough space to be prepared for any adventure that comes your way. The Cotopaxi CADA Dia 24L is the perfect size for everything I need, including camera gear.
Water Bottle: Drink vendors are available within the park grounds. Ghana still relies heavily on plastics (including, at times, plastic satchels for drinking water). Consider a filtering water bottle to ensure you’re getting more hydration and fewer toxins.
A Good Book or Journal: Whether relaxing into nature with a book or writing in a journal, the botanical gardens are the perfect place to reflect.
Is it Worth Visiting the Aburi Botanical Gardens?
Overall, yes, as one of the best nature spots near Accra, visiting Aburi Botanical Gardens in Ghana is a must-do for travelers looking to experience a quieter, greener side of the country.
The grounds are ideal for both nature lovers and photographers, and offer a more relaxing experience to decompress, a stark contrast from the hustle and bustle of city life.
FAQs About Aburi Botanical Gardens
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Yes—Aburi Botanical Gardens is one of the best day trips from Accra. It offers a peaceful escape from the city, cooler temperatures in the Akuapem Hills, and plenty of space to walk, relax, or take photos.
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Aburi Botanical Gardens is located about 1 hour from Accra, depending on traffic. The drive includes a scenic climb into the Akuapem Hills, with winding roads and great views along the way.
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The gardens are open daily from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Visiting early in the morning is recommended for cooler weather and fewer crowds.
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Yes, the gardens are easy to explore on your own. While local guides may be available at the entrance, they are optional, and most visitors choose to wander independently.
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You can reach Aburi by:
Uber/Bolt or taxi (most convenient)
Private driver (best for flexibility)
Tro-tro + taxi (budget option)
It’s recommended to arrange your return trip in advance, as transport options at the gardens can be limited.
I’m fortunate to live along the banks of the Volta River, but anytime I transit to Accra, I’ll always try to find time to pass through Aburi and spend an hour enjoying the fresh mountain air in the gardens.
It’s the perfect way to spend a slow afternoon; you won’t regret it.
Have you ever been to the Aburi Botanical Gardens before? Anything to add? Be sure to like, comment, and share and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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15 Stunning South Africa Travel Photos To Inspire Your Next Trip
The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountain—and in that moment, I was hooked…
The first time I visited South Africa was in 2010 on Semester at Sea. It was a crisp spring morning on the bow of the ship as the sun breached the horizon, lighting up the mighty Table Mountain—and in that moment, I was hooked.
Fast forward fifteen years. With a month off work and already situated on the African continent, there was only one place calling me back: South Africa.
It’s no secret that South Africa exists in a constant state of tension between its apartheid past and present-day realities. Townships still dot the outskirts of major cities, and crime rates continue to top the continent. But despite this complex backdrop, South Africa has a way of pulling you in—and refusing to let go.
From world-changing history, both evolutionary and geopolitical, and iconic wildlife to unforgettable safaris, dramatic coastlines, and vast landscapes, South Africa is one of the most visually striking countries in the world to photograph.
So, off I went—camera in hand.
Maybe these 15 stunning South Africa travel photos will inspire your next trip (fingers crossed).
Ready for more South Africa content? Don’t miss these posts:
1. Good morning, Cape Town
Location: Cape Town, South Africa - Table Mountain
Is there any secret as to why Cape Town is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful cities in the world for South Africa travel photography? All it takes is a window seat on approach into the airport to understand why. The magestic Table Mountain makes for one of the most unique city backdrops in the world, and is also a reason why it’s so hard to take a bad travel photo here.
This particular photograph was taken from the balcony of my apartment and it quickly became a daily ritual to watch the light move across Table Mountain on several crisp winter mornings.
2. Cape Town in Pastel: View from the Gardens
Location: The Gardens Neighborhood, Cape Town, South Africa
Not long after arriving in Cape Town, I fell ill and quickly realized I had brought a case of malaria with me from Ghana (don’t worry—South Africa is malaria-free). Each afternoon, the fever would break just long enough for me to get outside and explore.
The walking paths behind the Gardens neighborhood quickly became my go-to, and it’s easy to see why. Soft pastel buildings, quiet streets, and views toward Table Mountain make this one of my favorite spots in the city—and one of my favorite South Africa travel photos to date. For me, it perfectly captures the calm, colorful essence of Cape Town travel photography.
3. An Afternoon City Break in Cape Town’s Company’s Garden
Location: The Company’s Garden, Cape Town, South Africa
Despite visiting towards the end of the winter months, I stumbled upon one of my favorite Table Mountain viewing spots: The Company’s Rose Garden in the Central Business District.
Originally established in the 1650s to bring fresh supplies for ships passing through, the land now serves as a public park and the perfect spot for some stunning Cape Town travel photography, capturing city life in South Africa.
Once you’re done watching the birds and clouds (the “Tablecloth”) move in over Table Mountain, walk around the corner to Truth Coffee Roasting on Buitenkant Street for one of the best cups of coffee in your life (no embellishment necessary).
4. Golden Glow: Whale Watching in Hermanus
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
Every year, the quaint seaside town of Hermanus attracts so many visitors to Walker’s Bay that it’s commonly referred to as the “Whale Watching Capital of the World.”
After a month of solo-traveling around this incredible country, whale watching in Hermanus at sunrise was the experience of a lifetime that I hope to not soon forget.
The 5am wake up and freezing temperatures were worth it to capture this golden moment, one of my favorite travel photos from South Africa.
5. South Africa’s Nature Bath: Hermanus
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
The coastal landscapes are so pleasing to look at here that doctors once used to prescribe visits to Hermanus for recovering tuberculosis patients. The proof is in the medicine, right?
Even if getting out into the bay isn’t your cup of tea, there’s still plenty of South Africa’s nature to take in. Breathe a little easier and take the two hour drive from Cape Town. It’s worth the effort.
6. Golden Hour in Hermanus: Whales and Crashing Waves
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
No, I’m not done with Hermanus just yet. This travel photo lives rent-free in my mind so I wanted it in yours, too (you’re welcome).
Crashing waves, a golden sunrise, and whales rolling in the water. The coastal scenery provides all the recipe for a South Africa travel photography stunner, making a whale watching excursion in Hermanus a must-do activity.
7. Pure Bliss on the Hermanus Cliff Walk
Location: Hermanus, Western Cape, South Africa
If whale watching by boat isn’t for you there are still plenty of things to do in Hermanus, including a 12km cliff walk along the shore, making it easy to spot wildlife in the bay. The town even employs an official “Whale Crier”, blowing his conch every time one is spotted so you’ll never miss a beat.
8. Generational Differences: A Pilanesberg Safari Moment
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
A three hour drive from Johannesburg lies Pilanesberg National Park. Not nearly as vast as nearby Kruger, it serves as a smaller-scale safari for shorter trips.
On one of my final game drives, the jeep was nearly empty and we came across this scene: an older male “arguing” with a teen. Luckily we were the only ones there to bear witness.
9. The Spotter Becomes the Spotted in Pilanesberg National Park
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
Our guide pulled over after spotting a giraffe hidden behind the bush. As I fiddled with my camera, it slowly emerged and turned to face us at the perfect moment.
We quickly became “the spotted” on our game drive as the tables turned—creating one of my favorite South Africa travel photos, captured during a quiet safari moment in Pilanesberg.
10. “Giraffe Valley” Mornings
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
An unofficial nickname, the phrase “Giraffe Valley” quickly took hold during my stay at Black Rhino Game Lodge because every time we drove this particular area, we were greeted by several giraffes.
On this particular morning in the freezing cold, the sun hit the frost and mist just right to create this orange glow. We couldn’t find what this giraffe was staring out over the valley, but it never diverted its gaze.
11. Into the Pilanesberg Sunset
Location: Pilanesberg National Park, North West Province, South Africa
Once the aforementioned generational scuffle ended, we were treated to this scene: both elephants rumbling off into the sunset. One of the more peaceful South Africa travel photos I was able to capture and my favorite Pilanesberg safari moments.
Here’s my go-to camera gear when traveling:
12. The Road to Nowhere in Golden Gate Highlands National Park
Location: Golden Gate Highlands National Park, Free State, South Africa
I had a gap in my plans during my South Africa roadtrip after visiting Pilanesberg National Park. One thing led to another and I ended up in nearby Clarens as a base to visit Tugela Falls via the infamous Chain Ladders Route, the second-highest waterfall in the world.
Long story short, a combination of poor planning, time of day, and weather nixed that hike. But the drive back to Clarens passed through Golden Gate Highlands National Park and I decided to pull off and do a short walk. I was treated to the stunning Free State landscapes, herds of wild zebra, and solitude. The afternoon was a lesson in following your gut: things will work out.
13. The Perfect Stopover in Clarens, South Africa
Location: Clarens, Free State, South Africa
Clarens was never part of the plan, but it seemed a good home base for the next stage of my trip — driving into Lesotho.
Lined with cafes, breweries, and art galleries, this quaint town in South Africa’s Free State is also at the doorstep of jaw-dropping landscapes at neighboring Golden Gate Highlands National Park.
14. Toyota RAV4 vs. Sani Pass
Location: Sani Pass, Drakensberg Mountains, Lesoth-South Africa Border
Driving the Sani Pass was the top item to accomplish during my solo travel around South Africa, so when the rental company in Johannesburg couldn’t give me a 4x4 as was required to drive the road, I had a decision to make.
Do I skip it, or find a way?
That’s the story of how my trusted RAV4 and I (slowly) made our way down from Lesotho and back into South Africa along the infamous Sani Pass. The road was rough and the descent difficult, but the sweeping views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains were worth it.
15. Unexpected Peace in KwaZulu-Natal
Location: Howick, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
From the Drakensberg Mountains, I made my way into the rolling hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands with the intention of visiting Nelson Mandela’s capture site.
What I found instead was unexpected calm—gentle landscapes, open skies, and endless greenery like Gray Mare’s Trail in nearby Karkloof Nature Reserve. It was a quiet reminder that some of the most peaceful moments of travel come when plans take a back seat
My solo travel started in Cape Town, often named the world’s most beautiful city by Time Out Magazine — and it’s easy to see why. Mountains, outdoor space, coffee, rich culture and endless diversity… you could leave me there and I’d be set for life.
But when you inevitably book that trip, push yourself beyond the city limits and into the far corners of the country. Discover the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands and Drakensberg Mountains. Drive the wide-open roads of the Free State and jump into South' Africa’s wildlife.
You won’t regret it.
In the meantime, I hope these 15 South Africa travel photos help to keep that wanderlust alive and offer a little inspiration for your next adventure.
Questions? Anything to add? Drop it in the comments below. Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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Sani Pass Self-Drive Adventure: How to Conquer South Africa’s Most Thrilling 4x4 Route
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list…
*Note: All informations is up to date as of April 2025
If you're like me, then when planning trips you'll find one thing, maybe a place to stay or a sight to see, latch onto it, and then build an entire itinerary around that.
On my one-month road trip around South Africa, the thing I latched onto the most was self-driving the Sani Pass, a notorious 9km stretch of tumultuous terrain connecting the country with the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.
Why did I choose the Sani Pass experience? Truthfully, I'm not sure. It's just one of those things that when you know, you know.
The 13 hairpin turns and the 1:3 gradient up/down the Drakensberg Escarpment well, let's say it's not for the faint of heart. But, in some false-confidence part of my brain, I told myself the spectacular views of the mountains would be well worth the effort (and by effort, I mean risk).
So, if you're seeking a thrilling road trip with jaw-dropping scenery and a real sense of accomplishment, driving the Sani Pass should be high on your list.
Winding from the lush foothills of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa into the highlands of Lesotho, this is one of Africa's most iconic mountain passes — and a must-do for adventurers (don't forget to buckle up).
The infamous Sani Pass winds its way from Lesotho down into South Africa
What is the Sani Pass and why is it so special?
The Sani Pass is a high mountain road that links the borders of South Africa and Lesotho (the only border in Kwazulu-Natal), ascending over 1,000 meters in less than 10 kilometers.
Completed in 1950, the road starts at 1544m in elevation on the South African side and rises to 2876m on the Lesotho border, earning it’s name as the “Roof of Africa”. Previously utilized for pack animals, it is now one of the most challenging and dramatic 4x4 drives in Southern Africa and attracts off-road enthusiasts, photographers, and curious travelers alike (I'm the latter).
If you can brave the occasionally maintained loose gravel track, test your nerves on Devil's Corner and Suicide Bend, and survive being flanked by a steep drop-off for the entirety of the journey, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the surrounding Drakensberg Mountains, and a trip to the Highest Pub in Africa.
The beauty in this particular journey is in the remoteness. Nothing comes close to the feeling of standing on top of the pass, peering over the edge to see the winding road below. Meanwhile everything is eerily silent except for the wind whipping about, reminding you of just how forceful Mother Nature can be.
Ready to leap, or in this case slowly and arduously drive? Let's get into the details.
Looking for more South African adventures?
How difficult is it to drive the Sani Pass?
Make no mistake — driving the Sani Pass is not for the faint of heart.
With tight turns and oncoming traffic, it's important to have some prior driving experience not just for your safety but for everyone's. Remember, you won't be the only one on the road.
Despite re-graveling and flattening every month, the road is steep, rough, and unpredictable, with hairpin bends testing even experienced drivers. This, combined with the ever-changing weather, it’s best to have an alternative plan incase you’re forced to forego the drive that day.
It's not uncommon for drivers to embark on the Sani Pass before turning around and bailing out but, if you're committed to it, the drive requires 1.5-2 hours of constant concentration.
This is long enough to go slow, pull over for breaks, and pictures, or to give yourself a little pep talk, and still make it to the top safely.
Although I did a solo self-drive Sani Pass experience, it's safest to go with at least one other person to help you pick your lines of clearance. Some parts of the road can be a challenge and one wrong move can send you closer to the steep drop-offs.
The Sani Pass is made up of steep declines, narrow paths, and abrupt drop-offs
Sani Pass Requirements
First things, first, is a 4x4 required to drive the Sani Pass? Yes. It’s mandatory and is actively enforced at the South African border.
Even if you do have a 4x4, the border patrol agents have been known to turn away vehicles they deem not fit for the current conditions.
In addition, you'll need to meet the following requirements:
Passport.
No visa is required for Lesotho if visiting for 14 days or less.
Proof of Ownership of Vehicle.
It’s standard practice to provide registration documentation when entering and exiting any country.
Letter of Authority.
Rental cars must obtain a letter of authority from the agency that gives the driver permission to cross specific borders. This comes at an additional cost to the rental rate, usually around R650, about USD 35.
Spare Tire.
It's not necessarily a requirement that's checked, but it is safest to have one. The road is often littered with rocks and boulders, and if I have a choice between a flat tire and veering towards the ledge, I'm choosing the tire every time.
Finally, it's important to note that both the South African and Lesotho borders open their gates between 6 am and 6 pm. You must clear both by that time, otherwise, you'll be stuck.
This means that for a round-trip adventure, assuming a slow 2-hour journey, plan to start from South Africa no later than 12 pm and be checked in at Lesotho immigration by 2 pm.
Spend an hour or so snapping pictures and calming your nerves at the Sani Mountain Lodge, maybe purchase a quick souvenir from one of the small shops at the top of the pass, and exit Lesotho no later than 4 pm.
When to Drive the Sani Pass
Best time:
The best time to drive the Sani Pass is during the dry months. May to September offer clear skies and stable conditions.
Maybe it's not as photogenic (there will be less greenery on the pass), but it's still an unbelievable experience.
Avoid:
The worst time to attempt to drive is during the rainy summer months (November–March). Storms move through the mountains every afternoon, often striking at unpredictable times.
With such a steep gradient, you can imagine how prone the road is to landslides and flooding.
Winter note:
Winter on the Sani Pass is from June to August and is generally drier, making for an optimal experience. With that said, it's not uncommon for snow and ice to coat the road, making it slippery and un-passable.
It’s ideal to plan for winter months and when no recent storms have hit (easier said than done, I know).
A car carefully drives the perilous Sani Pass
Best Sani Pass Tours (2025)
Still interested, but maybe you're questioning your ability (or sanity) at this point? Don't worry, there are plenty of daily tours leaving from Underberg on the South African side.
Most depart at 9 am and include lunch at the Sani Pass Lodge and a visit to a Basotho Village in Lesotho before descending the Sani Pass and back into South Africa.
Total time is typically between 6 and 7 hours.
Here are a few reliable options to check out (all departing from Underberg):
Private Sani Pass Classic Tour (Top Rated)
First-Hand Experience: What it’s like to drive the Sani Pass
Here's where I need to put a disclaimer, don't do what I did. But, before you pass judgment, let me explain.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, driving the Sani Pass was imprinted into my brain while planning my road trip around South Africa. I made sure to book a 4x4 in Johannesburg, thinking I would be driving up the pass, across Lesotho, and back into South Africa somewhere else.
Spoiler alert: that plan fell apart very quickly.
When I arrived at the rental desk, they told me no 4x4s were available and I would have to wait multiple hours if there was any chance of locating one, but it wasn't guaranteed.
Meanwhile, time is ticking away to check in at the Black Rhino Game Lodge and, at some point, the gates will close and I'll be out of luck.
Once the rental agency sent me to the garage to pick up a BMW, I immediately said no, trying not to laugh at them knowing what I had planned. Their second try yielded a Rav4 that was, at least, AWD and had a downhill lock for the breaks.
At that point a decision needed to be taken. Do I put my foot down and demand a 4x4, wait it out and hope for the best? Or do I stay on track and adjust elsewhere?
Ultimately, I decided to take the Rav4 and reverse my itinerary. Instead of ascending Sani Pass from the South African side, I would enter Lesotho and Caledonspoort and descend.
An overnight stay in Mokhotlong, Lesotho before attempting the Sani Pass
There were a couple of reasons for this. For starters, it's much easier to go down than up. I can see the track better, make safer decisions, and gravity is in my favor when trying to get over rough terrain. Secondly, I took a gamble that if Lesotho border patrol wouldn't check the vehicle's 4x4 capacity. By the time I got back down to South Africa what could they do? I felt I had a better chance of still driving the Sani Pass if I planned it like this.
Again, get a 4x4. The only reason this crazy plan worked, was because I lucked out with a beautiful day and dry conditions.
So, I crossed my fingers, drove across Lesotho, and reached the top of Sani Pass after staying the night in Mokhotlong.
From the warm comforts of the Sani Mountain Lodge, I watched the morning traffic slowly crawl to the top, carefully maneuvering over every rock and boulder, fighting the wind to stay stable.
Why was I doing this again? Is this really a good idea? But, at that point, the only other option was to drive straight back across Lesotho.
After striking a full-on athletic-dad stance to avoid the whipping wind at the overview to snap a few pictures and once the Highest Pub in Africa reached capacity with adrenaline-filled tourists, it was clear that my time was now or never.
I stumbled over to border patrol while fighting the wind and, before I could say anything, the agent looked at my passport, mumbled something under his breath, and handed back my booklet with an exit AND entry stamp, failing to see I had entered Lesotho elsewhere. Instead, he assumed I had just failed to get my passport stamped once at the top, probably a common theme as people are filled with the cathartic feeling of escaping death on Sani Pass.
Either way, my passport now has two entry stamps into Lesotho and only one exit, so I guess it's a good thing it's not an electronic system and no one has bothered to check!
As the car slowly rolled under the "Thank you for visiting Lesotho" sign, that was the moment I realized there was no turning back and I had to lock in.
The hairpin turns and steep decline came quick. The phrase 'slow and steady wins the race' has never been so true. So much so that I let tourist vans pass me on their way back down.
As you'll read later in this post, patience and humility are two keys to success when driving the Sani Pass. Let everyone else go at their pace! In hindsight, one of the best decisions I made was to arrive at Sani Mountain Lodge in the morning and wait for those ascending to finish.
Looking back up towards the Sani Pass, from the South African Side
I can't imagine having to descend with traffic on the way up. Instead, I ran into maybe one car on their way to Lesotho. This allowed me to remain fully focused on white-knuckling the steering wheel and methodically trying to plot every minor adjustment to the tire angles while also not killing the undercarriage of the car because, as a reminder, a Rav4 is generally not equipped for this South African adventure.
After about an hour of riding the gas pedal, the slope leveled out and the anticipation of being on South African soil and paved roads again became real. It wasn't long before the little roadside "Welcome to South Africa" sign came into view and I was greeted by the smiling border patrol.
"How are you," they asked.
"Better now," I replied, laughing as I stomped on the pavement.
The gentleman checked some documents, looked in my passport, and glanced up at me before stamping and returning it. Surely he would be curious about why I have two entry stamps into Lesotho, right?
Instead, as he handed my passport back, he asked "This is a 4x4, right?"
Panic set in. I mumbled some deflection about how it "got the job done".
He smiled unconvincingly, and I drove off into the literal sunset, parking farther down the road to look back on what I had just accomplished.
Long story short, yes the Sani Pass is self-drivable, even for solo travelers like me, but there are some important factors to consider.
It's one hell of an adventure and one that I won't soon forget!
What to do at the top of the Sani Pass
The Drakensberg Mountains are an incredible playground in the wild, full of natural beauty and trails and the Sani Pass drops visitors at the perfect starting point. Whether you plan a round-trip excursion or want to see more of Lesotho, here's what you can do:
Grab a Drink at the Sani Mountain Lodge
Unless you're on a tour, be careful with what "drink" you choose. Remember, at 2,874 meters above sea level, alcohol will have an amplified effect and you do not want to be compromised on your descent down the Sani Pass.
Grab a cappuccino and a warm ham and cheese toastie and marvel out the window at your latest accomplishment as you watch cars struggle up the pass. This is also the optimal spot for some photos from the top of the pass as it looks out across the valley below and surrounding Drakensberg Mountains.
Explore Lesotho's Highlands
Consider continuing into Lesotho's remote interior for a few days before heading back down the Sani Pass to South Africa, or do what I did in reverse and exit Lesotho via Caledonspoort to see both Lesotho's stunning terrain and spend some time in Clarens, SA.
If you choose to traverse the Moutain Kingdom during the winter months, be sure to stop over at AfriSki and carve some turns on the African continent!
Overnight Stay
Wanting to stay overnight at the top of the pass? Here are some options:
Sani Mountain Escape ($-$$)- From 1 May 2025 to 31 August 2025, all accommodation at Sani Mountain Escape will be closed for renovation.
The Highest Pub in Africa remains open, but as such a high-demand destination, it now requires a R100 entrance fee and can often reach capacity at peak hours (get there early).
Sani Lodge and Cottages ($$-$$$) - Nestled at the base of the Sani Pass in South Africa, they have a range of accommodation available ranging from campsites to Rondavels (a traditional, circular hut).
The lodge also partners with Drakensburg Adventures, a Fair Trade Tourism company, making it easy to get in and out of Lesotho.
Sani Stone Lodge ($-$$) - For a more authentic Basotho experience, book a stay at Sani Stone Lodge. A bed in a mixed dorm costs R250, around USD 15, while a twin room with ensuite will run R1,100, or USD 60.
Take a break at the Highest Pub in Africa before heading down the Sani Pass
Top tips for self-driving the Sani Pass
Ready for your adventure?
This is truly one of the most beautiful drives in the world, but it's also one of the most challenging so it's important to come prepared. Here are some of my top tips for self-driving the Sani Pass:
Stick to the 4x4 Rule:
Don't attempt this in a regular vehicle. Seriously. Learn from the error of my ways.
What Goes Up, Must Come Down:
When I was unable to secure the 4x4 I had promised, I figured what goes up, must come down, right? In my experience, it was far easier to maneuver a Rav4 on the descent than the ascent, so I changed my route.
Consider which direction you want to drive and what makes most sense with your experience and expertise.
Less Congestion Equals Easier Maneuvering:
Morning drives offer better visibility and fewer vehicles, but it's also best to be aware of the tours.
I spent my morning sipping cappuccinos at the Highest Pub in Africa, watching the tour convoys haul their customers up and, when the restaurant became congested, that was my time to take off and descend the pass with far less ascending traffic.
How Low Can You Go:
Use low gear, especially on the descent. I cannot express this enough. You will be driving slower than you walk.
Thankfully, the Rav4 had downhill locks to keep sustained pressure on the breaks and limit the speed.
Pack Essentials:
This can mean different things for everyone, but in general consider water, snacks, warm clothing, a spare tire, and a sense of adventure.
Here are some of the things I brought along:
Hand warmer/power bank - Because you never know when you’ll need that little extra bit of warmth (or a flashlight, but hopefully just the heat).
Cotopaxi Fuego Down Vest - A great choice for layering. All the warmth, with more freedom! Add a windbreaker on top and you’re ready to brave the Sani Pass.
Mini Tripod - You won’t want to miss capturing the views, but at the same time it’s crucial to stay focused on the road. Set the tripod up in the car and rest assured you’ll collect some great images and videos.
First Aid Kit - It sounds unnecessary until it’s not and I didn’t want to risk the car rental not providing one, so I brought along my mini first aid kit.
Pocket Knife - Again, you never know when it comes to the Sani Pass. Better to be prepared for the unexpected.
Small shops line the roads at the top of the Sani Pass
Don’t Forget…
Fill the Tank:
Petrol is not readily available on either side of the border, so plan to fill up in Underburg (if coming from South Africa) or Mokhotlong (if arriving from Lesotho).
Don't Feel Pressured:
Yes, self-driving the Sani Pass is one of the most difficult 4x4 road-trips in South Africa, if not the southern part of the continent. It is still a route used by local transportation and many locals drive the road for leisure.
Don't panic if someone is passing you or ascends in 45 minutes. That's fine. Be patient, stick to what you're comfortable with, and trust the process.
Time doesn't matter, but remaining in one piece to share your adventure does!
Carry Cash:
The Sani Mountain Escape is now cashless and, oddly enough, even one or two of the small souvenir shops at the top of the road take cards, but it's best to still carry some cash.
The shop I wanted something from the most, of course, didn't take card and I was left with the memory (not a bad consolation prize, though).
South Africa SIM:
Be sure to use your South Africa SIM card in case of emergency.
If you haven't yet, try the Airalo e-sims. I've quickly grown to love the ease of flipping between SIM cards without fumbling through my bag to find something to open the slot with.
In the event of an emergency, the South African Border number is +27 033 202 1169.
Stamp the passport:
South Africa has a car park to pull into and it's very clear where you need to go. Lesotho, at the top of the Sani Pass, is a bit more relaxed.
Don't forget to walk over to the immigration window on both entry and exit. If you're doing a one-way self-drive, like me, be sure to tell them to avoid a wrongful assumption that you forgot to stamp into the country.
However it does make for a fun story, how I have two passport stamps into Lesotho and only one stamp out!
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Can you feel the excitement building?
Then it's probably time to book that trip to South Africa and experience the infamous Sani Pass in person!
Grab a drink at the Highest Pub in Africa, marvel at the surrounding geography, swap stories with other adventurers, and have the (literal) ride of a lifetime.
The Sani Pass awaits.
Anything I've missed? Have you visited before? Let me know in the comments below and, as always, stay safe & happy travels!
Discover Tranquility at Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana. This small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region…
Note: All information is updated as of April 2025
Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana.
Owned by Jolinaiko Eco-Tours, this small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region.
Relax in a hammock and get lost in a good book, enjoy delicious food, or explore the village… there’s something for everyone.
Here’s everything you need to know about staying at this hidden gem in Liati Wote, Ghana.
Let me be the first to welcome you to Tagbo Falls Lodge!
Mount Aduadu above the lush forests of Ghana’s Volta Region
About the Area: Liati Wote and Ghana’s Volta Region
Tagbo Falls Lodge is situated on the edge of a picturesque village, Liati Wote. Nestled near the border with Togo in Ghana’s Volt Region, this part of the country is renowned for its rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.
Although less than 600 members, Liati Wote prides itself on its community-based tourism approach, warmly welcoming people from all over the world to their slice of paradise in the mountains.
At first, I’ll admit, I was a bit put off by the term “tourist village”, imagining the all-too-often haggling on the streetside, drummers and dancers dressing up to beat drums for eager ears, ultimately existing to please the tourists rather than educate.
Boy, I was wrong. Liati Wote is nothing but laid back, making it possible to coexist to whatever degree you wish during your stay. That’s hard to find a world full of overtourism and the opportunism that comes from it.
Take a few steps down the dirt road outside the entrance and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of Ghana’s highest peak, Mount Afadjato. Keep walking towards town and you’ll find your way to the trailhead to the stunning Tagbo Falls (be sure to bring a swimsuit).
Liati Wote isn’t just about nature, though. Wander around town and you’ll quickly spot waste bins all around, part of a plastic waste reduction initiative from the Stepping Stones of Africa Foundation.
More recently, the NGO established the Nuku Arts Center in town, offering a workspace for upcycling while providing locally handmade goods for purchase.
Are you sold yet? Whether you’re a solo traveler, backpacker, or nature enthusiast, Liati Wote is a must-visit spot on any Volta Region travel itinerary.
Looking for more posts about Ghana’s Volta Region? Check these out:
How to get to Liati Wote, Ghana and Tagbo Falls Lodge
Getting to Tagbo Falls Lodge isn’t necessarily easy, but that’s part of the fun, right? From Accra, take a bus or drive to HoHoe, the largest city in the Volta Region. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared minibus (locally called “tro-tro”) to Liati Wote.
In the past, I’ve taken tro-tro from the Tema-Akosombo road to Golokwati, before hiring a motorbike to take me the final 45min to Liati Wote. This is the more adventurous way to arrive, but there’s nothing quite like cruising down dirt roads in the fresh mountain air.
Estimated travel time from Accra: 5–6 hours
From Hohoe to Liati Wote: ~40min by road
Pro tip: Wherever you’re coming from, do yourself a favor and plan to take a private taxi. It eliminates stress, and Ghana’s tro-tro system has a less-than-stellar safety record. Worry less about how to get there, and more about what you’ll do once you reach the lodge!
Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana
Cost of Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge
Tagbo Falls Lodge offers a range of accommodations that suit every budget, making it ideal for families and solo travelers, alike. Here is the current list of rooms available, as of 2025:
Banana Room (1 queen bed, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Orange Room (2 single beds, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)
Papaya Room R3 (2 single beds, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Papaya Room R4 (1 queen bed, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)
Pineapple Room (1 double bed, 2 single beds, private bathroom): 500/650* GHS/night (USD 32/42)
Chalet R6 (1 double bed, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R7 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
Chalet R8 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)
The asterisk is the price for using solar-powered air conditioning. If you can survive off fans, then you’ll pay the lower rate.
Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge does not include breakfast, so that’s important to factor in. With that said, the food here is some of the best I’ve had at any eco-lodge in Ghana. It will be well worth the nominal cost, I promise.
Speaking from experience, it’s important to plan ahead and book early. Weekends fill up quickly, so if you need more flexibility it’s best to try to visit during the week and off-holiday periods.
Ready to book? Contact them directly via WhatsApp at +233 54 955 8307 for any enquiries.
Morning sunrise in Liati Wote, Ghana
What to expect during your stay at Tagbo Falls Lodge
Tagbo Falls Lodge makes it easy to unplug and reconnect with nature. Upon arrival to the beautiful grounds, you’ll meet the friendly staff, get situated in your room, and immediately start to feel any stress melt away.
Everything about the lodge is cultivated to slow down and step back. If you need guidance they’re there to help, but if you need space, no one will bug you. I have met some wonderful people and have heard some incredible stories from those working there, though, so take time to interact and get to know them (especially Madam Philomina, who cooks all of the delicious meals).
In the middle of the lodge is the communal lounge where meals are served, complete with a bar stocked with local drinks. My personal favorites are the hibiscus juice and Tale Beer’s Hibiscus IPA… I guess you can see a trend there, huh?
Not a fan of independent travel? Check out these top-rated tours:
There’s limited Wi-Fi (very limited), so bring a good book and be ready to slow down. The data network is also virtually nonexistent except for certain spots in the village, which is my favorite aspect (good luck getting in touch, work colleagues).
If you’re lucky enough to be there as a storm hits, grab a drink and head for the viewing platform and the front of the property to watch clouds and lightning roll in through the mountains surrounding Liati Wote.
One of the best parts of staying at Tagbo Falls Lodge that I haven’t touched on is the food. This is some of the best and most affordable food I’ve had in Ghana and if I find myself within an hour’s drive, I always make it a point to stop by for lunch.
Madam Philomina and her team do a fantastic job, offering both local and continental dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options. Personal favorites include the baobab smoothie (baobab is a superfood native to Northern Ghana but lesser known), coconut curry rice (85 GHS/USD 5.50), and the homemade bread and garlic butter (40 GHS/USD 3).
This is one of the few places you can taste the passion and effort that goes into making the food. I will forever be a Philomina fan – be sure to ask about her duty as Queen Mother of Kpando, a small village on the bank of Lake Volta!
Whether it’s the end of a day full of relaxation or adventure, fall asleep with a happy stomach to the sound of crickets and rushing water and wake up to misty mountain views and crisp, clean air (a rarity in Ghana).
Tagbo Falls Lodge is a top eco-lodge in the country when it comes to its staff, cost, and location, and is a must-include for any Ghana itinerary.
It’s not hard to relax in the gardens of Tagbo Falls Lodge
Must-do attractions nearby
Although it’s easy to lose track of time and relax at Tagbo Falls Lodge, it also serves as the perfect home base for many other Volta Region activities. Here's what you can do nearby:
Hike to Tagbo Falls
The trail to Tagbo Falls is scenic and moderately easy, with a short 45-minute walk through the forest. The waterfall itself is spectacular—cascading into a clear pool that’s perfect for a refreshing dip.
Climb Mount Afadjato
Up for a challenge? Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s highest peak. It’s a steep but rewarding 1–2 hour hike, offering panoramic views over the Volta highlands and into neighboring Togo.
Visit Amedzofe, Ghana’s Highest Elevated Settlement
Just an hour’s drive away, Amedzofe is another eco-tourism paradise. Walk to the top of Mount Gemi for unparalleled views across the valley below or stroll along the canopy walkway through the forest.
Swim in West Africa’s Tallest Waterfall
Pick a moto and ride 40 minutes north along stunning mountain landscapes before arriving at the Wli tourist center. Follow a short, easily accessible trail, and feel the power of Wli Falls, one of Ghana’s top waterfall hikes.
Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana’s best waterfall hikes in the Volta Region
If the above doesn’t sell you on a visit to Tagbo Falls Lodge, then it’s possible you’re on the wrong blog! Just kidding (sort of).
In all seriousness, there are few places I’ve visited throughout my travels in Africa that are as authentic and wholesome as this. It’s time to book that trip for the real Ghana experience.
Tagbo Falls Lodge, Liati Wote, Ghana—add it to your travel list.
Have you visited Ghana’s Volta Region before? Share your experiences in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!
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