Exploring Mole National Park: Ghana’s Premier Wildlife Destination
Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve, offering a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. Located in the northern part of the country, it’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for an immersive safari experience...
Note: All information is up to date as October 2024 and is based around staying at the Mole Motel, however other accommodations exist within the park and are included in the post below.
Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve. Located in the northern part of the country, it offers a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. It’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for a unique safari experience.
After visiting Ghana for the past fifteen years and living here full-time for two, it’s a place that’s at the top of my list to not only bring visitors to but also myself to recharge and slow down!
An elephant is spotted on a morning game drive at Mole National Park in Ghana
History of Mole National Park
Established in 1958 and officially designated as a national park in 1971, Mole National Park covers approximately 4,849 square kilometers. It is home to over 90 mammal species, including elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, and antelopes. Depending on the park ranger, you may even hear a tale about the elusive lions that some say still roam the expansive interior forests. The park also boasts nearly 300 bird species, making it a hotspot for birdwatchers.
One of the Mole’s unique features is its year-round accessibility and the chance to observe elephants up close, especially during the dry season when they frequent waterholes. As one of West Africa’s best-preserved wildlife reserves, Mole National Park continues to attract travelers looking for an authentic African safari experience in a less commercialized setting.
I’ve visited the park in January, April, August, and December and have never been disappointed with wildlife viewing. Warthogs roam the motel grounds and even elephants come to say ‘hello’ at times. Careful of the baboons, though. They’ve been known to steal your food at the restaurant and open your room if it’s not locked — speaking from experience.
An antelope is spotted in the morning glow at Mole National Park - Ghana, West Africa
How to get to Ghana’s Mole National Park
Mole National Park is located in northern Ghana, approximately 150 kilometers from Tamale, the capital of the Northern Region. There are several ways to get there:
By Air: The easiest way is to fly from Accra to Tamale Airport. From Tamale, a private vehicle can be arranged through your accommodations. Other options include a shared taxi or a bus to Mole, which takes around 3-4 hours. Note: things are spread apart in the northern areas of Ghana. The most efficient option is a private vehicle with driver that costs GHC 1,500 round trip.
By Road: For those who prefer road travel, buses operate from Accra, Kumasi, and other major cities to Larabanga, the nearest town to the park. From Larabanga, it’s a short ride to Mole National Park.
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Entrance and Accommodation at Mole National Park
The beauty of Mole National Park lies in its affordable rates compared to other safari destinations in Africa. The entry fees are as follows:
Ghanaian citizens: GHS 10–15 (approx. USD 1–2)
Non-residents: GHS 40–60 (approx. USD 4–6)
*Discounts apply for children and students
Vehicles: Vehicles must also pay a nominal entrance fee into the park. This is the case even if a driver is dropping you off and will pick you in a few days. A Ghana registered car will cost GHC 5.00.
Accommodation: Mole offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets, all located within the park:
Mole Motel:
This budget-friendly option offers basic rooms and chalets with stunning views of the park’s watering holes, where elephants and other animals often gather. Rates start around USD 30–75 per night. A range of accommodations is available, from dorm rooms to chalets overlooking the watering hole.
Although basic and far from luxurious, most rooms include A/C and I can personally attest that they have made several improvements over the years. Plus, the whole point is to be outdoors and enjoy nature, right?
A restaurant and bar exists onsite and offers a wide variety of food, including pizzas, burgers, local foods, and even Chinese. If you’re looking for a truly northern Ghana experience, don't miss the guinea fowl. This tough meat is a Ghanaian favorite in that part of the country!
Mole Motel is a great place to bring a book, enjoy a Club beer, and relax by the pool while spotting elephants below. It’s one of my favorite places in Ghana to experience a sunset.
It’s not uncommon to see a family of warthogs grazing the grounds or elephants visiting the motel for breakfast! Sometimes the universe is in your favor and the wildlife comes to you.
Note: Although Mole Motel is listed as having wifi, the network is very unstable It works enough to send messages from your phone, depending on where you are, but I would not recommend coming here for remote work.
Zaina Lodge:
For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Zaina Lodge offers high-end accommodations with private tented chalets, an infinity pool, and premium services. Prices start at USD 300 per night and are inclusive of meals and game drives.
I haven’t stayed here because I prefer Mole Motel. Part of the charm of northern Ghana is the raw and remote wilderness, but I can see how a luxury place like this would be great for family vacations!
Camping:
For the more adventurous, camping facilities are available within the park near the ranger's station just outside of Mole Motel. You’ll need your own gear, and fees are approximately GHS 50 (USD 3) per night.
Mole Motel in Ghana as seen from the watering hole
What to expect at Mole National Park
Visiting Mole National Park provides an unforgettable safari experience without the crowds typical of other African reserves. The best times to visit are during the dry season (November to April), when animals congregate around water sources, making sightings easier.
Three of the most common activities in Mole National Park are walking safaris, game drives, and birdwatching:
Walking Safari:
Mole is one of the few national parks in Africa where you can go on a walking safari. Accompanied by armed rangers, you’ll explore the park on foot and get incredibly close to elephants, antelope, and more. Some level of fitness is required for this and it’s best to go early in the morning to avoid the heat.
If you don’t spot elephants on your trek, don’t worry. Rangers will happily take you back into the bush when they are spotted near the watering hole throughout the day (for an additional fee, of course).
The walking safaris are so cheap because all you pay for is a guide at an hourly rate (GHC 12 per hour for non-nationals). You read that right: a two-hour walking safari with elephants will cost you GHC 24, around USD 1.50. These occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm each day and no sign-up is required. Simply show up at the guard station!
Game Drives:
Open-top vehicle safaris offer a different perspective of the park, covering larger distances and giving you a better chance of spotting wildlife like warthogs, buffalo, and birds of prey.
There are day-time and night-time safari options, both with unique advantages. I’d recommend doing both as the drive in the dark gives unparalleled views of the stars and you’ll often see different animals such as bush babies, genet cats, owls, and more. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll see an elephant both during the day and night!
For small children and those with fitness concerns, driving is the more comfortable and accessible option.
Compared to a walking safari, the game drives are a bit more expensive as you must pay both the guide and vehicle fees. A safari-vehicle rental fee for both day and night is GHC 200 per hour and a guide fee for non-nationals at night is GHC 40 per hour while daytime is GHC 12 per hour.
This means a two-hour game drive during the day will cost you GHC 424, around USD 25, and at night GHC 480, or USD 30. If you make friends at motel, share a vehicle and lower the costs by splitting the vehicle fee between people.
Similar to walking safaris, game drives occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm daily, while night drives take place from 7pm-9pm.
Note: Book your night safari early at the guard station. These must be reserved in advance to ensure a vehicle is available.
Birdwatching:
Mole is a paradise for birdwatchers, with species such as the white-backed vulture, martial eagle, and saddle-billed stork commonly spotted. Birdwatching tours are also available for those keen to explore the avian diversity and can be enquired through Mole National Park’s website.
A Woodland Kingfisher is spotted with an elephant in the background - Mole National Park, Ghana
Things to do near Mole National Park in Ghana’s Northern Region
Mole National Park is a gateway to several other exciting destinations in northern Ghana and many visitors pair it with a cultural trip to the surrounding areas. Don’t be surprised if you’re approached by a tour guide at the motel; this is common practice!
Larabanga Mosque:
Just a 20-minute drive from Mole, this ancient mosque is an architectural gem and holds significant religious and historical importance in Ghana. Visitors can take guided tours to learn about its fascinating history, and explore community projects in the village like the local school and a shea butter-making process.
Mognori Eco-Village:
Located just outside the park, this community-run initiative offers visitors the chance to experience traditional village life. You can take a canoe safari along the Mole River or enjoy a cultural drumming and dancing session with the locals.
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Packing tips for Mole National Park
Make no mistake about it, although Mole National Park is a well-visited tourist destination, it’s still very remote and there are some important considerations when packing. Here’s what to bring:
Cash — Credit cards are accepted at the Mole Motel and Restaurant (network dependent), but it’s cash-only to pay the park rangers for the safaris. There’s also a small provisions and gift shop which is also cash-only. Stop at an ATM in Tamale and pull out enough money for your visit.
Medicine — You never know how your body will respond to different foods in remote areas. It’s best to pack basic medicines for stomach issues, allergies, and more. On one trip my friend was stung by a wasp, his eye swelled, and all we could do was “ice” it with the coldest water bottle we could find. There is a small health clinic in the nearby village within park borders, but don’t rely on this (speaking from experience)!
Warm Clothes — If visiting in December, it gets cold at night which means the morning and night game drives will require you to bring layers. It sounds odd given Ghana’s equatorial location, but trust me when I say the last thing you want is to be on top of a safari vehicle shivering for two hours.
Torch — When the sun goes down, it gets dark and the last thing you want to do is stumble upon a mother warthog grazing with her children. The grounds within the motel gates are small, but it’s still useful to have a torch to get back to your room after a few drinks at the bar to cap off a day of adventure.
Portable Charger - This comes in handy for multiple reasons. You won’t want your phone dying on a safari just when you track down an elephant. If you have the right model, it also serves as a hand warmer for those cool savanna mornings and evenings.
A hazy December sunset overlooking the watering hole at Mole National Park in Ghana
Mole National Park offers a unique and tranquil safari experience, perfect for travelers who want to immerse themselves in nature and observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Whether walking alongside elephants or watching a sunset over the savannah from the lodge, Mole promises a serene and unforgettable adventure. With its affordable prices, accessible location, and nearby cultural attractions, it’s an essential stop on any Ghana travel itinerary.
Ready to explore Ghana’s wild side? Start planning your Mole National Park adventure today and check out more posts about this incredible country below!
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Exploring the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana: Everything you need to know before you go
Tucked away in the Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting the sanctuary...
Note: All information below is updated as of September 2024
Tucked away in the remote Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.
History of the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is a community-run conservation project, created to protect one of the last remaining populations of hippos in Ghana.
Established in 1999 in partnership with the Calgary Zoo, the sanctuary spans a 40-kilometer stretch along the Black Volta River, which forms part of the border between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Not only does it protect hippos, but it also preserves the surrounding savannah, woodland, and riverine ecosystems, while promoting sustainable tourism that benefits local communities.
Black Volta River from above
How to get to the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located about 85 kilometers from Wa, the capital of the Upper West Region. Visitors traveling from Accra or other major cities in Ghana can fly into Wa Airport, with a connecting domestic flight from Kotoka International Airport.
Passion Air is the only domestic airline to run the route and has only one daily flight except for Tuesdays and Saturdays. Tickets will cost you between USD 150-250.
It’s important to note that Ghana’s domestic flights aren’t immune to last-minute delays or cancelations but Passion Air is reputable for following through on rebooking and refunds.
Once in Wa, you can take a bus, shared taxi, or hire a private car to reach the sanctuary. The road from Wa to Wechiau is generally in good condition, but is not paved the entire way turning off the main road it will be dirt the rest of the way.
The drive is approximately 45min - 1 hour from Wa to the sanctuary reception. Once finished there, it’s another 45min drive through farming paths, heavy brush, and washed out “roads” to the riverbank.
If you find yourself on a whirlwind of a roadtrip through Northern Ghana like we were, then your best bet is to reach Wa from Tamale. This 4.5 hour drive is mostly on paved roads and takes you around the outer rim of Mole National Park, making it an easy trip to pair with the elephant safari and Larabanga Ancient Mosque if you have a few days.
A bloat of hippos spotted on the river
Cost of visiting the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary
The entrance fee for the sanctuary is relatively affordable, and it directly supports the conservation efforts and local community. As of 2024, prices for non-residents hover around GHS 30–50 (approx. USD 3–5), while Ghanaian citizens may pay a reduced rate.
Additionally, guided tours of the sanctuary are available, costing around GHS 100–150 (USD 10–15) per group (this includes guide and boat fee).
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Where to stay while visiting the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary
Most accommodation options are in Wa. Two to consider are:
Dellagio Hotel: A welcomed site after a long couple days of driving. This hotel is comfortable, safe, and secure with a large outdoor space to relax and a restaurant with quality food. Wifi and breakfast are included. After learning the Lakeview Hotel was fully booked, we ended up here and although a little more expensive it was a great stay! A standard room will cost you GHC 565, approximately USD 35.
Kamara Lakeview Hotel: This is a newer hotel in Wa and isn’t fully completed yet, but the staff was very accommodating in referring us to Dellagio. The rooms are clean and comfortable, especially for GHC 394 per night, around USD 25.
Both of these hotels are located about 1 hour drive from the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary.
At the sanctuary itself, a few options exist. For an authentic experience, consider staying overnight in a traditional homestay with a local family, which typically costs GHS 80–100 (USD 8–10) per night, or camp at the Hippo Hide and listen to the grunting at night as the animals make their way to land to feed. A basic guesthouse also exists near the riverside, with basic rooms starting at around GHC 100 per person, per night.
The banks of the Black Volta River, shot from Ghana and looking into Burkina Faso
What to expect at the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana’s Upper West Region
One of the sanctuary's main draws is the boat trip on the Black Volta River, where you can observe hippos in their natural habitat. Unlike typical wildlife safaris, this offers a more intimate and peaceful encounter with these majestic creatures. The best time to spot hippos is in the early morning or late afternoon, as they tend to retreat to the water to stay cool during the hottest part of the day. As on any safari experience, there’s never a guarantee to see the hippos. This is especially true during rainy season when the water level rises.
It’s important to note that there are multiple entry points onto the Black Volta, and the guides will take you to where they feel you have the highest chance of viewing hippos. Fortunately for us, the conservation team had just completed a census the day prior.
We drove my rusty Honda Pilot through small villages and dense brush before reaching the riverbank where a dugout canoe awaited. After donning our life vests we pushed away and were swiftly carried downstream by the strong current, immediately spotting a lone hippo in the distance.
After another few minutes of floating, we anchored to the tree branches as we flanked a bloat of hippos in the middle of the river. We had spoken to someone who had visited a week prior and after a few hours in a canoe they weren’t able to see any animals so needless to say this was unexpected. But there we were, fighting the current of the Black Volta, staring across the river into Burkina Faso, and viewing hippos in their natural habitat all the while one guide kept us steady and the other emptied water from the wooden floor.
It’s not always the most comfortable feeling being in canoe on a flooded river with one of the world’s most dangerous animals — we even had a rogue hippo leave the group and inch towards our spot, diving underwater and resurfacing closer than before — but our guides assured us that humans have never been attacked since the conservation area was established.
Besides hippo watching, the sanctuary is home to diverse bird species and other wildlife, including monitor lizards, crocodiles, and baboons. Nature walks with local guides allow you to explore the unique flora and fauna of the region, and for those interested in cultural experiences, visiting surrounding communities offers insight into the local way of life. The area is also known for its shea butter production.
Hippos spotted from canoe on the Black Volta River in Ghana
Nearby Attractions
While in the Upper West Region, consider extending your adventure by visiting some of the nearby attractions:
Wa Naa’s Palace – Located in Wa, this historic palace is the seat of the Wa Naa, the traditional ruler of the region. It’s an excellent spot to learn about the local culture and history. Note that the palace is still in use today so be sure to check in at the appropriate entrance.
Gbelle Game Reserve – Roughly 60 kilometers from Wa, this lesser-known game reserve is home to elephants, antelope, and various bird species. With that said, we dug through research to find more on this place and ultimately decided to pass on our drive north. No one in the area could tell us reliable information and there was no indication of the reserve on our route. We’ll definitely be going back to do more investigation. Hopefully you have better luck!
Gwolu Bone Setting Clinic - A little over 3 hours away from Wechiau is the unofficial border town of Gwolu. Here, one of the most frequented and last remaining traditional bone setting clinics is situated. This unassuming building draws in people from all over the north and even a few kilometers away from neighboring Burkina Faso in search of traditional treatment for fractures.
An aerial view of a bloat of hippos
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is one of Ghana’s best-kept secrets, partially because it’s not the most accessible. If you’re willing to commit to the adventure, you’ll be spoiled by wildlife, culture, and stories to share. When planning a trip to Ghana, this is a “can’t miss” opportunity to discover a different side of the country’s natural wonders, and maybe even a quick trip across the river to unofficially reach Burkina Faso!
This is certainly and experience I won’t be forgetting anytime soon and is one of the most unique things I’ve been fortunate enough to do during my time in Ghana. It’s well worth the effort to reach there. So, what are you waiting for?
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Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe
Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer...
Please note: All info below is accurate as of September 2024
Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer.
Sounds like paradise, right? Here’s everything you need to know before a visit.
Canopy Walkway - Amedzofe, Ghana
History of Amedzofe
Amedzofe, the highest habitable settlement in Ghana, sits about 750 meters above sea level. Historically, it served as a strategic location for the Ewe people, providing a natural defense against attacks. During colonial times, German missionaries arrived and their influence is still visible today in the architecture, such as the iconic German-built Presbyterian Church. The area’s rich history is intertwined with its cultural heritage, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in learning about Ghana’s past.
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How to get to Amedzofe
Amedzofe is approximately 2.5 to 3 hours by road from Accra, the capital of Ghana. Depending on traffic, it’s safer to plan for 4-5 hours of travel!
The best route is via the Accra-Ho road, which offers a smooth drive until you reach the scenic, winding roads that ascend the Amedzofe hills. Public transport is available, but if you're looking for convenience, renting a car or booking a private ride might be the best option.
The final stretch of the journey will treat you to breathtaking views of lush valleys, mountains, and distant villages.
If driving yourself, be aware that once entering Amedzofe the roads deteriorate. Mount Gemi is accessible, but many people choose to park elsewhere and take motobikes to the start of the canopy walkway, especially in rainy season.
Top things to do in Amedzofe, Ghana
Mount Gemi:
One of the town’s main attractions is Mount Gemi, a prominent peak that offers panoramic views of the Volta Region. Atop the mountain stands a stone cross, erected by German missionaries in the early 20th century. A short hike to the summit (~20 minutes) will reward you with sweeping vistas of the surrounding landscape, including Lake Volta on a clear day.
At the top, you’ll find a cross that overlooks the village below. This is a sacred place to the community and it’s not uncommon to see people making pilgrimages to pray.
Cost: 55 GHS (USD 3.50) for foreigners
Note: Although Mt. Gemi is a hike, minimal fitness levels are required. Multiple routes of varying inclines exist, making this attraction suitable for everyone.
Amedzofe Canopy Walk:
Amedzofe is home to a beautiful, lesser-known waterfall that cascades gently into a natural pool. The short but steep hike to the waterfall is an adventure in itself, as you pass through verdant forests and enjoy the peaceful sounds of nature. Don’t forget your camera and swimsuit—this spot is perfect for capturing the tranquil beauty of Ghana’s natural wonders and bathing below the falls.
If it’s between Kakum Canopy and Amedzofe, choose here. It’s far less trafficked and, as a result, the serenity of the surroundings are preserved.
Cost: 75 GHS (USD 4.75) for foreigners. Discounts applied for students.
Hours: The entrance building opens at 8am, 7 days a week. Get there early to have the entire place to yourself.
Note: There is a required level of fitness for this as the path to the canopy walk leads to a steep descent of 259 steps.
Explore Local Culture:
Amedzofe is a culturally rich town, and visitors have the opportunity to interact with the friendly locals, learn about Ewe traditions, and explore the historical sites dotted around the town. The Presbyterian Church and old missionary quarters are great places to start, giving you a glimpse into the town's colonial past.
Birdwatching and Nature Walks:
The area around Amedzofe is a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The lush environment is home to a variety of bird species, including the colorful and rare African grey parrot. Guided nature walks can be arranged for visitors interested in learning more about the local flora and fauna through the local tourism board.
Canopy Walkway and Oti Falls, Amedzofe
Accommodation: Where to stay in Amedzofe
Accommodation is limited but affordable, with local guesthouses offering rooms for as little as GHS 100 (USD 8) per night.
Basic meals at local eateries will cost around GHS 15 to GHS 30 ($1 to USD 3), with more upscale options available in nearby towns like Ho.
Additionally, there are camping options, including equipment rentals, at Mt. Gemi.
Nearby Attractions
Less than an hour from Amedzofe lies the village of Liati Wote. This quiet spot near the border with Togo is another tranquil gateway into nature. Here you can climb Ghana’s tallest free-standing mountain (Mount Afadjato), hike to and swim at Tagbo Falls, or enjoy an afternoon eating some of the best food in the country at the Tagbo Falls Eco-Lodge as you relax in the courtyard. Another 45 minutes north leads to Wli, the home of West Africa’s tallest waterfall.
Other attractions:
Tafi Atome Monkey Village
Amedzofe, Ghana from above
Whether you’re hiking to the top of Mount Gemi, marveling at the cascading waterfall, or immersing yourself in local culture, Amedzofe is sure to leave a lasting impression. For those yearning for adventure and serenity, this charming town in the Volta Region promises to be a rewarding journey.
Pack your bags, hit the road, and leave the bustling streets of Accra, and the tourist trail, behind—Amedzofe awaits!
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5 reasons why you should visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime
Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers. Maybe people don't want to walk with elephants or relax on unspoiled beaches. Whatever your reasons may be, here are 5 as to why everyone should visit Ghana at least once in their lifetime.
Please note: This post was updated as of December 2023
Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers.
I suppose, in a way, it can be quite overwhelming with too much nature to explore, too many foods to choose from, or a local culture too vibrant to step into.
Sounds terrible, right?
Here are 5 reasons that you should make time to visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime!
1. DIVERSE WILDLIFE
A one hour flight north of Accra to Tamale gives access to Mole National Park, the epicenter of Ghana’s wildlife.
Mole was the first National Park established throughout the country and covers 4,577 square kilometers of burnt orange savannah.
Once inside the park, visitors are transported into a world full of wildlife, including antelopes, bushbucks, monkeys, rare birds (most notably the white-backed vulture), and even leopards, although extremely rare.
It’s not uncommon to be wandering the grounds of the Mole Motel, only to stumble upon a family of warthogs grazing in the grass.
Don’t get distracted for too long though, as the pesky baboons aren’t shy about rummaging through your belongings. During my first visit, I zoned out at breakfast only to realize a baboon had jumped onto the table, stolen the toast and butter, and was cheekily consuming it 10 yards away.
What’s so special about Mole National Park, you ask? The elephants.
Yes, I failed to mention that it’s an elephant hot spot and a prime place for viewing these magnificent mammals between December and April.
Due to the lack of predators within the park’s boundaries, safaris can be done on foot when accompanied by an armed guard. This means that visitors can come within mere feet as elephants graze the savannah.
In total, Mole National Park encompasses 90 different species of mammals, 334 of birds, 33 of reptiles, and approximately 120 of butterflies.
It was a surreal experience, to say the least.
Other places of note include the Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary in Nkoranza and the remote Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary, tucked away in the Upper West Region along the border with Burkina Faso
Looking for a little more luxury? Check out Mole National Park’s Zaina Lodge. This all-inclusive resort comes complete with an infinity pool, fine dining, and games drives.
Walking with elephants at Mole National Park
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2. VIBRANT CULTURE
Thailand might be known as the “land of smiles,” but I’m willing to cast my vote for Ghana to claim the title.
Upon landing in Accra, visitors will notice the positive vibes that are emitted from the locals as they smile and greet everyone that passes by. Don’t be surprised if you make a few friends on the streets and the two of you are suddenly chatting as childhood best friends do. It’s completely normal.
Ghanaians aren’t afraid to express themselves through any means and the perfect place to experience it all at once is Makola Market. Wander through the narrow paths as sellers shout their prices, negotiations become animated, and people move to the beat of the music that fills the air.
It’s no wonder everyone is so happy. In a sea of dust and smog, Ghana’s arts shine bright.
For proof, the stalls full of kente cloth goods at the Center for National Culture.
This vibrant cloth was once sacred amongst the Akan people, reserved for Kings and Queens to wear in times of great importance. Although it’s turned mainstream for the sake of souvenirs in Accra, the royal culture is alive and well in villages throughout the city.
Side note: When visiting a village it’s customary to present the elders with a bottle of schnapps. During one of my visits with Aya, we abided by this custom and he, in turn, presented us with a live goat. I’d like to think that he’s still happily roaming the fields of central Ghana where we set him free.
Whether dancing the night away with locals on the famed Labadi Beach or wandering the halls of the Artists Alliance Gallery in Accra, even the most introverted people can’t resist the vibrant culture in Ghana (I can personally attest).
Traditional drumming & dance performance in Senase, Ghana
3. DELICIOUS FOOD SCENE
Whether in search of traditional fare or cuisine from around the world, Ghana has got you covered.
Dive into a bowl of fufu, a ball of pounded cassava served with stew, or jollof rice, a mixture of tomato paste and rice that packs a punch with a pinch of habanero pepper.
Ghanaians are passionate about their jollof. So much so that a seemingly endless online debate has been taking place for years with Nigerians as to whose jollof rice is the best. For neutrality’s sake, I’m going to keep my mouth shut (but definitely have some while in Ghana, if you catch my drift).
Another personal favorite is the mouth-watering bofrot, the African version of a donut. It’s easy to find a street vendor selling this traditional fried snack on most corners, serving as a quick, easy, and cheap breakfast.
As vast as the traditional foods might be, the global food scene shines bright in the capital city of Accra.
Visit Burger & Relish in the lively neighborhood of Osu for arguably the country’s best burger or enjoy an evening at Santoku for an innovative Japanese experience.
Whatever your food preference may be, you can find it in Ghana.
Traditional Ghanaian fufu
4. DEEP HISTORY
Ghana’s vibrant culture becomes next-level when considering the dark and gut-wrenching past.
Today, 40 castles that formerly housed slaves before loading them onto ships bound for the New World dot the coastline. Of the 11 million to cross the Atlantic, most were taken to South America or the Caribbean but it is thought that around 500,000 Ghanaians disembarked in the United States.
Cape Coast Castle is the most popular of former slave sites to explore and provides visitors the opportunity to experience first-hand the suffocating, dark dungeons that housed 1,000 males and 500 females with minimal food and no sewage available.
The most chilling part of the experience is by far walking through the infamous “Door of No Return,” where slaves once took their final steps in their homeland before a life of labor elsewhere became the reality. That’s if they were fortunate enough to survive the ocean crossing.
It was on March 6th in 1957 when the resiliency of Ghanaian’s paid off and the country became the first sub-Saharan nation to gain independence.
Needless to say, there’s a long and storied history here and it begs to be explored. What better way to do so than to do it first-hand?
Cape Coast Castle looking towards the “Door of No Return”
5. UNSPOILED NATURE
A 4.5-hour drive east of Accra lies Wli Falls, conveniently situated along the border with Togo. Cascading into a pool from 80 meters (262 feet) above, it’s West Africa’s largest waterfall and just a scratch on the surface of all that Ghana has to offer.
Hikers can climb to the top of Mount Afadjato (885 meters/ 2,903 feet) the highest peak in the country, while beachgoers can head south to Ada Foah and stay at the off-the-beaten-path Maranatha Beach Camp for some much-needed relaxation and fun in the sun.
Maranatha Beach Camp in Ada Foah, Ghana
If mountains and beaches don’t do it for you, then how about rainforest hiking?
Kakum National Park is located a short drive north of Cape Coast, Ghana and encompasses 360 square kilometers of the country’s rapidly receding vegetation.
It’s also the home to the famed canopy walk where visitors saunter between the treetops on a precariously placed piece of wood (it’s completely safe, I swear).
Forest elephants and bongo antelopes, both endangered, call this park home while guided hikes from the visitors center help hikers spot birds and butterflies.
Hiking, birdwatching, swimming, sunbathing; Ghana has it all.
Ready to explore more of Ghana’s unspoiled nature? Start Here:
Hopefully, by now you’re a bit better acquainted with all the beauty, both natural and cultural, that this West African nation holds.
If not, here’s the moral of the story: take a trip to Ghana. Explore it, live it, breathe it and enjoy the ride!
Have you ever been to Ghana before? What was your favorite part? Let me know in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Staying at the Maranatha Beach Camp: Where the river meets the sea
Traveling through Ghana? Don't miss out on staying at the Marantha Beach Camp. Complete with thatched huts and a surplus of coconuts along a blissful stretch of sand, you'll fall asleep to the sound of the crashing waves after a day full of relaxation or adventure - whatever you choose!
Please note: This post is updated as of December 2023
Have you ever found yourself scrolling through Instagram and stumbling upon someone else’s picture-perfect beach vacation, only to look up from your phone and realize it’s time to get back to work?
Me, too.
Luckily for all of the budget travelers in the world, there’s a magical place just outside of Accra, Ghana where the Volta River flows out to the Gulf of Guinea and palm trees provide shade to the tiny thatched huts that dot the coastline.
Welcome to the Maranatha Beach Camp where, quite literally, the river meets the sea.
THE HISTORY
Maranatha Beach Camp was founded by Winfred Dzinado back in 2005 and started as a one-man operation with only a couple of huts on a strip of sand in Ada-Foah, Ghana. Since that time, it has expanded to 30 available bungalows.
His motivation stemmed from a perceived need for the education of children within his community. Families had been neglecting to send their children to school because of the distance or required financial commitment, both common problems throughout the country.
As Winfred continued his business, he began using the profits to fund affordable and convenient education, starting with the construction of one small classroom and thus establishing the Maranatha Community School.
Today, the school now holds classes for children from 4-15 years old and is partially Government supported while the beach camp’s profits continue to pay for building upkeep and a few teacher salaries.
Needless to say, you can feel good about where your money is going!
Maranatha Beach Camp as seen from the water
BOOKING
The beauty of the Maranatha Beach Camp is that you won’t find it on any booking site. Outside of reviews on TripAdvisor, there’s really not a whole lot of information out there, which only adds to the allure of this isolated oasis.
Don’t worry, I can see your confusion. If there’s no information available, then how does one book accommodation?
Send an e-mail request. Once a response is received, you’re good to go! That’s all it takes.
There is no online payment processing and no deposits necessary. Simply show up and pay on site in cash.
GETTING THERE
The first step in reaching the beach camp is to find your way to the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. This can be accomplished by either private taxi from Accra or using the public transportation system, commonly referred to as Tro-Tros (find the van heading to Ada-Foah from the Tudu Station in Accra).
After the 2 hour drive east from the capital, you can either hire a motorbike to Maranatha and walk the rest of the way through the town (the walk is across the sand, so it’s not ideal if you’re dragging large suitcases) or you can arrange to be picked up by boat (additional charge per person).
If opting for the latter, it’s best to arrange it through the beach camp prior to arrival in order to save money. Other people will offer their boat services once you arrive in Ada-Foah, but these will typically be a bit more expensive.
Arriving via fishing boat
THE ACCOMMODATION
It’s important to keep things in perspective when talking about what’s available. Maranatha Beach Camp is off the beaten track, comprised of thatched huts on the beach, and is relatively isolated meaning that electricity and running water are scarce.
Does that mean you should stay away? Absolutely not. It’s just important that you know what to expect before you show up with a mental image of a pristine beachfront cabana.
With that being said, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall quality and cleanliness. It’s clear that Winfred and his staff care deeply about what has been built and it shows in how they maintain and continuously improve their facilities!
Rooms (prices as of 2023):
It’s almost inconceivable how affordable room rates are, making it a great place to visit for any budget traveler. Here’s the gist:
Sand Floor Rooms: 60-100 GHC per night
Turtle Lodge Rooms (enclosed with solid floor): 100-200 GHC per night
VIP room with washroom: 250 GHC per night
Keep in mind that each hut is mere feet away from the water’s edge. There’s no such thing as a “good or bad location” here.
Facilities:
Communal vault toilets and bucket showers are available and cleaned daily. It’s not luxury by any means, but trust me when I say that guests have everything they need.
A small soccer pitch and volleyball court have been drawn out in the sand and there are plenty of games to play and hammocks to lounge in throughout the day.
Food and drinks are available by cash purchases at the restaurant/bar on site. Everything is sourced locally and is very affordable, so you won’t break the bank by eating 3 meals a day.
Beach huts dot the beach along the soccer pitch
WHAT TO EXPECT
Maranatha Beach Camp isn’t just a hangout for foreigners, but it’s a local hotspot as well! You’re just as likely to meet fellow travelers from around the world as you are to converse with people from the surrounding communities, especially on the weekends.
Upon arrival, you'll be offered the chance to tour the Maranatha Community School. Take it. It’s a great way to learn about the history of the operation and will shed new light on just what the beach camp means to the community.
The daytime atmosphere is laid back and friendly. Lounge in a hammock as local vendors pass through with fresh coconuts, start a game of volleyball, swim in the Volta River (much calmer than the Gulf of Guinea) or, if visiting on the weekend, dance the night away around the infamous beach bonfire.
It’s also possible to organize a boat tour around the Volta Estuary to places like Rum Island, where locally sourced sugar cane is turned into this satisfying spirit. The Volta River is an important part of Eastern Ghana, and spending some time cruising around is a great way to gain insight as to just how vital of a role it plays in sustaining life.
As the day ends, grab a cold beer while sunset illuminates the sky. One of my favorite things to do in the evenings is simply to sit on the beach and watch the twinkling lights of passing ships as they move across the horizon. My body may relax, but my mind never stops wandering!
Looking for more trips in and around Accra? Check out these can’t miss posts:
IMPORTANT TIPS
Charge electronics ahead of time: With limited electricity, it’s important to make sure larger electronics you plan on using have full juice ahead of time (i.e. a camera). A portable power bank is a great item to pack for smaller gadgets!
Overestimate cash needed: Maranatha Beach Camp is a cash-only establishment. Normally this wouldn’t mean much except there are no ATMs available in the area. It’s important to bring enough money for accommodation, transportation, meal costs, extra boat tours, drinks at the bar, etc.
During one of my visits, I was forced to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra because I had no more cash in my pockets and wouldn’t have been able to pay for the ride!
Bring supplemental snacks: This is especially important if you are a vegan. Although food is fresh and available at the restaurant, it can be difficult to find something to fit that specific dietary need. Make sure to shop ahead of time as, like ATMs, there are no supermarkets to be found.
Plan on buying goods: Whether a bottle of local sugar cane rum or handmade jewelry from a vendor on the beach, plan on at least having the opportunity to purchase some sort of souvenir and factor that into your cash withdrawal.
WORTH IT?
Absolutely.
The friendly atmosphere is second to none and it’s a great opportunity to engage with the local community.
Most visitors spend 2-3 days here and leave feeling rested and relaxed, but if you’re in search of a longer escape then it may be worthwhile to learn about the community’s organized volunteer programs.
Either way, next time you find yourself in Ghana, make the effort to visit the Maranatha Beach Camp!
It’s certainly not the easiest of places to reach, but the most beautiful ones never are and I won’t soon forget this little slice of paradise.
So, are you ready to claim your very own beach bungalow and unwind for a few nights? I know I am!
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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Top 10 things to see and do in Accra, Ghana
From historical monuments to bustling markets, Ghana's capital city of Accra has plenty of diverse experiences to offer. Here 10 of the top things to see and do... enjoy the adventure!
Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023
Approximately the size of Texas, Ghana encompasses an arid climate up north, rainforests in the south, sunny beaches, diverse religions, rich culture, and more than 250 dialects.
So, how can one possibly get a beat on all that this West African nation has to offer? Start with Accra; the place where it all melds together in joyful harmony.
Here are 10 of the top things to see and do in Accra, Ghana!
1. LOSE YOURSELF IN ALLEYS OF MAKOLA MARKET
Largely considered as the economic heart of Accra, Makola Market can be overwhelming to first-time visitors, and for good reason.
There is no official welcome sign or arrows that guide visitors to the various subsections, rather the city’s streets quickly transition from flowing traffic to full of pedestrians and goods. Rest assured anything you might need can be found: a toothbrush, sunglasses, veggies, smoked fish, soap, second-hand clothing, and even toys and souvenirs.
Personally, my favorite thing to do here is to track down a bofrot vendor, Ghana’s version of a donut, and munch on the delicious snack as I wander through the streets in search of something new.
It’s important to remember that although Ghana is commonly referred to as “Africa for beginners” crime still exists, especially within such a high density of people. Be sure to keep your belongings close to avoid pickpockets and keep in mind that all legitimate business is done out in the open. There’s no need to wander into back alleys or enclosed spaces.
Finally, enjoy it.
It can certainly be a bit overwhelming to first-time visitors, but don’t let that deter you but don’t let that keep you way. Rather, use Makola Market as a sort of “right of passage” to truly experience the local life in Accra. It’s something that everyone should experience at least once, even if just for a moment.
Don’t forget to negotiate your purchases - that’s half the fun!
A small section of the bustling Makola Market in the heart of Accra, Ghana
2. STROLL THROUGH THE KWAME NKRUMAH MEMORIAL PARK
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park was dedicated to the first Prime Minister of Ghana in 1992 and is located on the site of the former British polo grounds. This is the exact spot where Dr. Nkrumah once stood to declare Ghana’s independence from British rule before uttering his famous line: “Ghana is free forever”.
A mausoleum is located within the park’s walls and holds the remains of Dr. Nkrumah and his wife, Fathia. To the naked eye, the exterior seems an odd architectural design, but to the people of Ghana, it was built to resemble an upside-down sword, the Akan symbol of peace.
In total, the park covers 5.3-acres and also encompasses a museum which houses photographs, letters, and more from Dr. Nkrumah’s storied life.
It’s easy to spend a couple of hours here, soaking up the palpable history of the long and grueling fight for freedom. A powerful experience, to say the least, and one of the most important sites for first-time visitors to Accra!
3. PAY A VISIT TO BLACK STAR SQUARE
Black Star Square is a massive open-air arena of sorts in the heart of Accra that accommodates 30,000 people. It now hosts all of Ghana’s national parades and holiday gatherings, most notably the Independence Day celebrations held on March 6th each year.
This architectural giant was originally commissioned by Ghana’s first Prime Minister and President, Kwame Nkrumah, to honor the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 1961.
The expansive area includes Independence Arch on the southern end of the square with the Gulf of Guinea as a backdrop while the Memorial of the Unknown Soldier stands opposite to the north, honoring all of the fallen souls during Ghana’s fight for independence.
By day the square is empty, showing off its sheer size to all who visit. There is no entry to fee walk around and photographs are generally permitted, however keep an eye for guards standing around any of the specific monuments, most frequently Independence Arch. At that point it’s best to exercise your travel photography etiquette and ask before taking a close-up photo.
A visit to Black Star Square certainly won’t take long, but it’s a convenient stop that’s located near several other points of interest, including Black Star Gate and Accra Sports Stadium.
An empty Black Star Square looking towards
4. CLIMB TO THE TOP OF BLACK STAR GATE
Technically part of the Black Star Square complex and sometimes referred to as Independence Arch, this stunning gate stands alone in the middle of a roundabout on the 28th of February Rd. (named out of respect for the 1948 riots) and is impossible to miss.
Lined with beautifully planted gardens, the Black Star Gate represents the struggle for Ghana’s independence. The star at the top, not unlike the one that can be found at the center of the country’s flag, dons the top of the structure on all four sides and symbolizes African emancipation.
The other colors of the flag, red, yellow and green, represent the blood of those who died for independence, mineral wealth, and Ghana’s rich forests and natural resources, respectively.
Be sure to climb to the top of the Black Star Gate and take advantage of the spectacular city views across Accra. This is a great photo op for an aerial perspective over the massive Black Star Square, Accra Sports Stadium, and Osu Castle.
Although it’s free to do, I’d recommend tipping the guide that escorts you up.
Black Star Gate in downtown Accra, Ghana
5. GO BACK IN TIME AT OSU CASTLE
Once referred to as Christiansborg, Osu Castle is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, serving as a constant reminder to Ghana’s gut-wrenching past.
Over the years, control of the castle changed hands between the Danes, Norwegians, Portuguese, and British and even served as the seat of the Ghanaian government in the post-slavery era up until it was moved to its current location at the Jubilee House in 2013.
Today, the castle offers visitors the chance to wander the halls British officials once walked and explore the harsh conditions of the slave dungeons.
The most meaningful experience, however, is the solemn “Door of No Return,” ominously named to symbolize the final time that those held captive would step foot on their native soil before boarding a ship bound for the New World.
It’s worth a visit, especially if you don’t have the time to travel to Cape Coast’s castles. Keep in mind that Osu Castle remains within a security zone and, as a result, is only open to the public on Fridays between the hours of 9:00 am and 4:00 pm.
6. WATCH A SOCCER MATCH AT ACCRA SPORTS STADIUM
The Accra Sports Stadium is a 39,800 seat facility that’s mostly used as the home venue for the Hearts of Oak and Accra Great Olympics F.C. soccer teams of the Ghana Premier League.
Although an upbeat atmosphere accompanies match day, it doesn’t come without its fair dose of unfortunate history.
In 2001, it was the site of the worst stadium disaster in all of Africa that claimed the lives of 126 fans. On that fateful day, Hearts of Oak was playing in a match against Asante Kotoko and trailed 1-0 until two quick goals changed their fortune.
Disappointed Kotoko fans responded by throwing plastic bottles on the pitch before law enforcement retaliated with tear gas. Due to the stadium’s poor design, fans bottlenecked at the limited exits and 116 supporters died of compressive asphyxia while another 10 passed away from trauma.
Today, a bronze statue of a fan carrying another fan to safety stands proudly outside of Accra Sports Stadium and reads “I am my brother’s keeper.”
Attending a professional match here remains one of my all time favorite experiences in Accra. In all honesty, I don’t remember how the game unfolded. We were too busy singing, dancing, and blowing vuvuzelas in the rain with the diehard supporters.
Accra Sports Stadium and home of Hearts of Oak, the most successful club soccer team in Ghana
7. JAMESTOWN LIGHTHOUSE
The 92 ft tall Jamestown Lighthouse was built in the 1930s and stands as an iconic staple of the Jamestown neighborhood, which was once a major settlement of Europeans during the slave trade.
Although no longer operational, it’s still possible to climb to the top and take in the fresh air the blows in off the Gulf of Guinea while overlooking the fishing village, historic Fort James, and surrounding Accra.
Pay close attention to where slabs of cement jut out into the ocean. That’s where slaves once walked en route to ships bound for the New World.
The lighthouse is kept under lock and key by local volunteers. They represent a non-profit organization that works in the area and although the building is technically free to visit, it is expected that you provide a donation for their willingness to guide a short tour.
They may try to encourage you to visit Fort James and the fishing village as well, but it’s okay to say no. Simply donate a comfortable amount (5 GHC per person usually suffices) and continue on your way!
Jamestown Lighthouse standing tall in Accra, Ghana
8. KICK BACK AND RELAX AT LABADI BEACH
Adored by locals and foreigners alike and commonly referred to as “La Pleasure", Labadi Beach is a scenic stretch of sand in the Labadi neighborhood of Accra.
Visit during the day and enjoy the views as you sip on a local beer while waiting for your fresh fish at one of the various stalls before wading into the waves. Grilled tilapia, spicy kebabs, and jollof rice are just a few of the dishes available.
Once the sun goes down, the music turns up and the party begins! It’s not uncommon to find reggae artists, disco DJs, and other live bands blasting a cacophony of sounds late into the night.
As you might imagine, a large part of Accra turns up on the weekends, so for a more relaxing experience, it’s best to visit during the weekday. Either way, the small entrance fee (around 20 GHC) is worth the price!
9. SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP AT THE CENTER FOR NATIONAL CULTURE
Although the Center for National Culture may sound like a museum of sorts, it’s actually a souvenir mecca. From wood carvings to backpacks made with the traditional kente cloth, jewelry, gorgeous canvas paintings, and even musical instruments, these vendors have it all - and they’re not afraid to tell you about it!
Don’t be surprised to find yourself surrounded by new “friends” the moment you step out of the taxi, eagerly ushering you to their respective shops. Stand your ground, tell them you’ll stop by later, and stick to your plan.
Right away you’ll notice that the market is inundated with lookalike items, which quickly explains everyone’s urgency to sell their version. My best advice is to take a lap: slow enough to get eyes on what’s available, but quick enough to avoid any aggressive selling strategies.
Another useful tactic is to use your instincts and make a friend. Spend some time talking, build trust, and ask for advice as to how much the items around the market that peaked your interest should cost. It makes the ensuing negotiations much easier!
An artisan delicately carves a bowl at the Center for National Culture in Accra, Ghana
10. HEIGHTEN YOUR SENSES AT THE ARTISTS ALLIANCE GALLERY
Three stories of unique artwork and crafts fill the halls of an old tower that overlooks the Gulf of Guinea.
The Artists Alliance Gallery was first established by the famous artist, Ablade Glover, and has since grown to include the work of both well-known but also up and coming artists of Ghana.
From woven kente cloth pieces to vibrant canvas paintings, a wide array of eye-catching visuals are available to peruse as well as purchase.
Pay special attention to the exorbitantly carved coffins in the shape of crabs or a pair of Nike shoes. In Ghana, it’s popular in to bury a loved one in something that represents their being - whether depicting a favorite item or former occupation.
Admission is free and it makes for a great afternoon of embracing the vibrant and artistic culture of Ghana!
So, there you have it. It’s time to get out and explore Accra, Ghana!
What interests you most on this top 10 list? Is there something I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
Don’t want to wander? Check out these tour options!
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After three years living in Ghana, these are ten of the most unforgettable travel experiences across Africa that changed how I see the world…